No More Over or Under Watered Plants: A Comprehensive Guide to Watering Your Garden

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We’ve talked a lot about creating systems in your garden to grow more food even with chronic pain and fatigue, and you can find lots more of my tips on that by clicking here. But I wanted to dive deep into how to water plants with chronic illness today because - at least for me - watering plants has been a huge struggle. Unwieldy hoses and heavy watering cans plus the time required just standing there combined with the fact that skipping a day of watering in the hot and dry season because you aren’t feeling well isn’t really an option leads to this being a constant source of stress. The good news is that there are many different ways to water your plants no matter your budget or energy levels.

How to Water Plants

Knowing how and when to water your plants in your garden sounds scarier than it is, I promise! While some plants may have more specific watering requirements, as a general rule you want to keep the soil consistently damp throughout the germination process, and then once your plants are established you’ll wait for the soil to begin to dry out during the growing season.

• Utilize mulching to prevent water loss due to surface evaporation

• Concentrate your watering at the base of the plant

• Confirm the soil isn’t already damp first

• Water in the morning, so excess moisture can evaporate in the sun

When to water plants

Water infrequently but deeply in the morning to encourage resilient plants - 1” of water once per week. A 10-foot soaker hose (the kind with a spray nozzle) will release 6 gallons of water per foot in an hour’s time. For 1” of water coverage, you’ll need to run the hose for about 45 minutes.

How to water in-ground gardens

The best hack for watering in-ground gardens is mulch. Mulch will hold that moisture in so it doesn’t evaporate from the soil in hot dry weather. Once your plants are established (usually a couple of weeks after transplanting or about a month after direct sowing) in ground gardens are pretty self-sustaining in terms of water. During heat waves I will water once a day, but other than that as long as we’re getting some rain once a week or so I won’t water established in ground gardens much at all. Of course your plants will tell you if they are thirsty too by drooping, and if you don’t mulch at all things will be very different - this is when you’ll need to watch out for hydrophobic soil (see more info on that below)

How to water raised bed gardens

Standard raised bed gardens that are in contact with the soil underneath will need slightly more attention in watering than an in-ground bed since the growing soil is elevated slightly. Drip irrigation or olla watering systems work really well in raised beds, or you can follow the tips listed above.  (click here to learn more about ollas)

How to water container gardens

Container gardens are notorious for drying out very quickly. You will need to water container gardens at least once per day - in a heat wave, sometimes twice per day. Raised beds that are elevated off of the ground like mine fall into the container garden category as well and benefit hugely from automatic watering systems like the irrigation trays included with my raised beds or an olla watering system.

Is it true that you shouldn’t get leaves wet when watering your plants?

I’m sure you’re wondering how you’re supposed to completely avoid getting the leaves of your plants wet while watering. The fact is, some plants (especially squash) are more susceptible to diseases that thrive in damp environments like powdery mildew. This doesn’t stop the rain from falling on your plants however, so I wouldn’t worry too much about avoiding any water getting on the leaves unless you are having an especially damp season (in which case, don’t water anyway!)

What is hydrophobic soil?

Hydrophobic soil occurs when a waxy residue builds up on the soil particles resulting in it repelling water rather than absorbing it. This can happen if you do not water consistently, or you don’t use mulching to protect the surface layer of your soil from drying out. You can tell that soil has become hydrophobic because the water will bead up and not soak into the earth normally. You can also confirm your soil is hydrophobic by digging down an inch or two beneath the soil after watering. The surface may look damp, but underneath the soil will be completely dry.

How to fix hydrophobic soil

The easiest way to correct hydrophobic soil is to amend it with nutrient rich compost. However, you most likely won’t be fixing the soil that is hydrophobic - you’re really just slowly replacing the soil that has gone “bad” by mixing in fresh new soil that can encourage better absorption.

My favorite low energy watering techniques

Water your garden with Ollas

Olla (pronounced oya) means “pot” in Spanish, but the concept of using ollas as an irrigation system goes back thousands of years and has been used in countless cultures around the world. An olla self watering system for plants is basically any type of unglazed clay pot that is buried beneath the soil with only a small amount sticking up above the surface and filled with water. You can tell that a pot is unglazed because it will be that classic terracotta red color with no shiny finish, glaze or paint. The water then leeches out of tiny holes or “pores” in the unglazed clay and is pulled through the soil to the roots of your thirsty plants using a process called soil moisture tension. This functions much the same way as osmosis, in that the water is trying to equalize to a certain level of moisture within the soil. This means your soil will never become overwatered either - if the soil is moist, the water stays in the pot until it is needed. 

Olla pots reduce wasted water by about seventy percent, since most of the moisture is held underground and not lost to surface evaporation. This is a huge savings over traditional watering methods and means you can significantly reduce your water consumption in our drought-prone climate. This will lower your water bill as well as make your garden more environmentally friendly! They are also perfect for watering plants on vacation.

Olla pots also help you to grow happier and healthier plants. The root systems in your plants will also be healthier, as they reach out towards the underground water the roots will become larger and sturdier, keeping your plants from falling over. Most importantly, plants that are watered at the soil level are less prone to infection with certain fungal diseases that thrive in damp environments, since the leaves of your plants will not get wet as often. Because of the soil moisture tension phenomenon, your plants will also never be overwatered.

You can click here for my favorite ready-made ollas you can buy or click here for instructions on how to DIY your own.

Water your garden with drip irrigation

Drip irrigation combined with a timer will give you the most hands-off automatic watering for plants. You can truly just set it and forget it, leaving you free to focus your energy on garden tasks you enjoy. These systems run the gamut from complex DIY builds to custom built configurations, but for a ready made option I recommend this Garden Row Snip-n-Drip Soaker System. With this system you can easily create a customized watering system for rows of plants. The kit includes everything you need to water up to four 25' rows, and only takes about an hour to set it up at the beginning of the season. This way you can apply water just where you want it — and not where you don't. You can customize this convenient soaker hose system to suit your vegetable garden or any garden planted in rows. No special tools are required — just use scissors to cut the hoses to the sizes you need. Snap the fittings in place and you're ready to water. The weeping action of soaker hoses delivers water right to the roots, with minimal loss due to evaporation and runoff. Soaker hoses use up to 80% less water than sprinklers!

Water your garden with rainwater

Rainwater collection is an excellent option especially in drought prone areas. This is the rain barrel we use in our garden - the authentic oak barrel texture is molded into each plastic rain barrel and will not fade, rot or risk insect infestation. The unique flat back design allows the rain barrel to sit flush against any wall and is equipped with a durable brass spigot with hose hook-up as well as a screen to keep out debris and insects. Manufactured from rotomolded polyethylene, this rain barrel is impact resistant and UV stabilized to eliminate fading. Don’t forget a stand to elevate your rain barrel so you can have good water pressure to your hose and fill up your watering can easily.

Water your garden with sprinklers

Sprinklers are a great hands-off watering method. Try this Hi-Rise Lifetime Brass Sprinkler. In an age of plastic, one-season sprinklers, you'll appreciate these no-nonsense sprinklers built to last a lifetime, made of coated steel and solid brass. The jet nozzle creates a 360° spray of fine droplets without the need for failure-prone moving parts. Spiked base has a foot tread to make placement easy, and a second fitting so you can connect two sprinklers end-to-end with a feeder hose.

I hope these tips on how to water your garden were helpful. Gardening with chronic pain or fatigue doesn’t have to be harder with a little planning. How do you water your garden? Let me know in the comments!

Make Gardening Manageable with These Must-Have Tools for Low Energy Gardeners

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April brings with it the arrival of the height of gardening preparations, and the demand it takes on our bodies as we assemble new gardens, pull lawn furniture from storage and shovel mulch means that I am ending my days sore and tired. I’ve been gardening for most of my life in one form or another, but ten years ago I was diagnosed with psoriatic arthritis, and since then I’ve had a whole decade to come up with the best gardening hacks to and gardening tools for gardening with chronic pain and low energy.

Psoriatic arthritis often confuses people who don’t have it - its cousins rheumatoid and osteoarthritis are far more common, so there’s a misconception that psoriatic arthritis isn’t as serious or doesn’t have as much of an impact on quality of life as these more well known forms of arthritis. The fact is that psoriatic arthritis is more than a skin condition. I experience severe joint pain and fatigue, just like someone with rheumatoid arthritis or osteoarthritis. I just get the added “bonus” of sensitive dry skin too. While exercise can help with my symptoms, it can also make them worse if I push myself too hard. I’ve had to learn my physical limitations by testing them, and those limits are a lot lower than someone living without an autoimmune disease. The idea that arthritis is an “old person's” condition is so pervasive that people often think it can’t really be that bad, especially since I am young and don’t look sick. But invisible illnesses like arthritis and other autoimmune conditions can dramatically change your life, no matter how old you are.

I’ve hit breaking points with my arthritis while gardening many times. I have sat, covered in dirt and crying because I couldn’t bend over or kneel to clear weeds from an in-ground garden bed. I thought the solution was to just scoot along on my butt, but quickly discovered that even though this was easier on my joints it was still physically exhausting and left me too fatigued to finish. I have lost the hand strength to grip a shovel or rake on more than one occasion. I have felt scared that someday even the little things I do could be beyond my ability if I’m not careful. Gardening is rooted in my soul, a part of my identity, and I don’t know what I’d do without it at this point. Gardening and nature in general have brought me out of the darkest moments in my life. Tending to plants gives me purpose and fulfills my need to nurture. 

This is my why. The reason I sit here day after day and type these words to you: I grew from these challenges, and I want to show you how you can too. Now these hard times that I faced are just more proof that I know I can trust myself to stand up for my needs and prioritize them. They solidified my identity and brought me closer to knowing myself. Most of this came from mindset (we are hard-wired to see the negative first, but that can be overcome) but after that mindset shift, in order to make real concrete change I invested in a few gardening tools that would make it possible for me to continue doing what I love.

The key to low energy gardening:

These tools won’t give you superpowers. I could give you all my best vegetable gardening tips and tricks but you’ll still find the key to low energy gardening is planning and pacing yourself. This means working in short blocks of time, around the times of day when you know you have the most energy (mornings are hardest for me) and being strategic about resting when needed by encouraging rest through your outdoor garden seating arrangements. They also may not fully address all of the limiting factors you may experience. I hope however that they can serve as a jumping off point from which you will feel inspired to find what feels good for you. I have chosen these tools either because they are specifically comfortable to handle with chronic pain, or they speed up whatever task they are designed to be used for.

Tools used for gardening

Weeding tools

Gardener's Lifetime Taproot Weed Extractor

Remove stubborn taproots and other deep-rooted weeds with less effort! Insert the prongs of this weed extractor vertically, right at the root, until the tubular section rests on the ground. Then, pull the handle towards you, and the weed will pop right out.

Gardener's Lifetime Half-Moon Hoe

Also called a swan-neck hoe, this popular tool cuts weeds just below the soil surface. The ergonomic design lets you stand up straight while working, minimizing back strain, and the curved blade lets you work in tight spaces between plants and rows. To give it extra strength and durability, the wooden handle is bolted into the deep socket

Gardener's Lifetime Cape Cod Weeder

Used by generations of New England gardeners, Cape Cod Weeders slice weeds just below the soil line and are great for working in tight spaces This Lifetime Cape Cod Weeder is hand-forged from the finest high-carbon Swedish boron steel with a pointed, self-sharpening tip. Unlike flimsy tools that are stamped from thin stainless steel, this weeder is ready for a lifetime of use by serious gardeners. To give it extra strength and durability, a 4" metal tang extends into the handle, which is securely fastened with a welded socket.

Best raised garden beds

Self-Watering Elevated Planter Box, 2' x 8'

These no-bend garden boxes keep plants hydrated via a series of innovative, connected reservoirs that deliver water to roots on demand. Four generous 5-gallon reservoirs extend the time between waterings and create more even moisture throughout the bed. And, since water is drawn primarily from the bottom instead of applied from the top, less water is lost to evaporation too! 10" planting depth accommodates a variety of crops, from tomatoes to root-crops like carrots.

The height of the planter box has other advantages too: fewer weeds, reduced maintenance, and fewer critters nibbling at your prize plants. The sturdy aluminum legs won't buckle or sag, and the wood is naturally rot-resistant and safe for your organic crops.

Garden seating ideas

Garden seating is going to be so important if you have low energy or chronic pain. I like to have one main large work table outside that I can sit at for tasks I know will take longer like transplanting seedlings or just organizing a harvest. This is an inviting spot where I can rest while still feeling productive. It’s also a good idea to scatter around various benches and chairs throughout your garden space or at least keep a folding camp chair handy that you can collapse onto periodically in between weeding, watering and harvesting. Always keep water and sunscreen handy - I like to keep my harvest basket stocked with these essentials plus my clippers too, so I’m not walking back and forth just gathering everything. This way you don’t have to go inside every time you need a break, wasting more energy with the walk to and from the house as well as interrupting the flow state of gardening that gives us the most mental clarity.

Deep Seat Garden Kneeler

The extra-wide base makes it much more stable than narrower models, with sturdy sides that lock in place so you can raise and lower yourself with confidence. Easily flips from kneeler to padded bench. Sides fold in for compact storage. Holds up to 250 lbs. Weighs just 9 pounds, so it’s easy to carry.

Bamboo Garden Stool and Basket Combo

Versatile, heirloom-quality, all-in-one basket, stool, and seat. Carry tools and plant starts out to your garden, harvest veggies to bring inside, sit on it to weed and tend or keep potatoes and onions (or bath items, dog toys, and more!) neatly corralled.

Beautifully made from bamboo, a strong and highly renewable resource, it can support up to 250 lbs. as a seat. Quality joinery gives you the confidence to step up or sit down and go about your work. Flipped over, it feels solid in your hands plus the handles are wide and smooth — making it ultra comfortable to carry.

Deluxe tractor scoot with bucket basket

This go-anywhere, do-anything, super-stable rolling scoot lets you work from a comfortable seated position and is perfect for gardening, washing tires, painting baseboards and more. Super-sturdy; holds up to 400 lbs. Bucket Basket holds a 3-1/2 gal. Tubtrug or 5-gal. pail and carries up to 40 lbs.; perfect for tossing weeds or gathering the harvest. Handle extends for pulling, retracts & locks for support. Storage tray holds hand tools and supplies.

Best garden hose

Low energy garden irrigation is going to have to be a whole post in itself, because there are as many ways to water a garden as there are gardeners in the world. I will say that watering has turned out to be one of the biggest physical challenges to gardening for me. Since it often needs to be done daily, and cannot be timed around when I’m feeling best in the week, and winding/unwinding hoses is a special kind of torture to those of us with limited energy. Hoses are a low energy gardener’s number one enemy. I have two solutions to suggest:

Hoselink Retractable Garden Hose

The Retractable Garden Hose Reel is a wall-mounted unit featuring a high-quality spring-loaded hose that automatically rewinds on command. Its specially designed ‘stop-anywhere’ locking mechanism secures the hose at any length, eliminating excess hose to prevent kinks and tangles. To lengthen, simply walk the hose out further and stop wherever you want.

Olla Watering System

You can use ollas like these and never have to water your garden the hard way again, while reducing wasted water lost to evaporation by 60-70%.

Indoor gardening hacks

If starting a full outdoor garden is too much for you I have one last gardening tip to share: consider indoor gardening. There are so many options available now that will actually allow you to grow your own fruits and vegetables inside of your house. My favorite is the Smart Garden from Click&Grow - both stylish and functional tower garden options that bring nature to you. You can read more about my thoughts on the Click&Grow here!

Perennials for the Sun: A Guide to Choosing the Right Plants for Your Garden

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

In planning your garden, it’s fair play to go to your local nursery and grab whatever you like the look of. However, if you’re interested in garden design and the best shot at successful and happy plants, incorporating some strategy and thought in choosing your flowering perennial plants will go a long way.

What is a Perennial Plant?

First, let’s talk about what a perennial plant is not. You know when you go to a garden center in the spring and there are plants already blooming with bright flowers and you’ve been starving for color all winter and you Must. Buy. Them. All? Those are annual plants, plants that will die in the fall of the year you put them in the ground. You get the instant satisfaction of pretty colors in your yard, but you’ll have to do it all over again the next spring, and the one after that.

Perennial plants may die back to the ground in fall or winter (some don’t), but their roots are still alive, and, year after year, each spring the plant will come back bigger, stronger, and with more blooms. These are the plants we use to build a garden that will become more lush and beautiful every year.

What are the Benefits of Perennial Plants?

Aside from lasting years, there are other benefits to planting perennials. Many perennial flowers will bloom all summer, and they are beneficial to birds and other creatures in our yards, as they create habitats and dependable sources of food.

While the upfront cost of the plant may be higher than for an annual plant, the lifetime cost will not be. This is true not only because we spread that cost over years, but because one perennial plant can easily be separated as it matures and become two, or ten, or twenty plants over time.

How Do You Divide Perennial Plants?

Most perennials are happy to be divided, and in fact, some must be divided in order to thrive. Talk of green thumbs can cause people to believe plants are delicate and complicated. The truth is, the vast majority are hardy and can take a bit more roughness than you might imagine.

There are two basic ways I divide a perennial plant. The first is to use a sharp-edged shovel. Pressing straight down on the shovel with my foot, I can separate the roots belowground. It’s then easy to dig out only the section I want to move. The other way I divide a plant is to dig the whole thing up. Some plants’ roots will easily separate into pieces once they’re out of the ground. Others will need to be split with a shovel, as above.

Bulbs are perennials which need to be dug up and separated. When the plant is scooped out of the ground, you will find that the bulb has multiplied, with smaller bulbs attached to it which are very easy to take off with your fingers and replant elsewhere.

Where Should I Plant My Perennials?

When making a garden, a good mantra is, “right plant, right place”. If we can find just the right plants for different spots in our yard, they will thrive with very little input from us.

In order to put the right plant in the right place, you need to become familiar with the land. Where does the sun shine all day? Where is it shady in the afternoon? Is there an area with dappled light? Does it feel much warmer near the wall of your house? When it rains, where do puddles form?

The land you live on is not all one climate. There are microclimates – pockets and hilltops, large empty areas, windbreaks, and spots near a building or fence. To learn more about this concept, I recommend the book Gaia’s Garden, by Toby Hemenway. It may take a couple of reads to really understand the many things that create different conditions in different areas of our property, but in the meantime, you’ll have the basic idea and can start planting. You’ll see what fails and what is happy, and over time you’ll learn more from your real life experience than you ever could from a book.

Once you’ve gotten to know the land, it’s time to research which plants will do best in the conditions of whatever areas you choose garden. There are plants that want only full sun and some that want full sun but will tolerate partial shade. There are plants that will only grow in full shade, drought-tolerant plants, and plants that like to keep their feet wet – they don’t want to live in a dry spot. You can find out the needs of each plant with a simple Google search.

You’ll also want to research how big the plants will get, keeping in mind the amount of space you have available to plant, and when they will bloom, so you don’t end up with everything blooming in June and there being no flowers in the garden for the rest of the season.

What Color Perennial Flowers Should I Choose?

You should choose whatever colors appeal to you. There are no rules! It can be good to pay attention to how many of each color you purchase, though, so you don’t end up with a garden that is all one color. (Unless that’s the look you’re going for – it can be gorgeous!)

How Many of Each Plant Should I Buy?

With so many perennials available, it can be tempting to buy just one of lots of different kinds. A lot of new gardeners start out that way, and it can be a good way to learn.

To make a cohesive garden, though, consider limiting the number of varieties you choose, and instead get more than one plant of those varieties. Large swaths of the same flower make a garden look intentional and full. It can also be a good idea to plant the same variety in different parts of the garden to provide balance. If you only have a few though, I recommend planting them near each other.

Three is generally a magic number in design, and that holds true in the garden. If you can afford more than three, stick with an odd number for the most attractive outcome.

What Full-Sun Perennials Should I Buy?

If you’re lucky enough to have some sunny spots in your garden, you’ll find many more options are available to you. There are plenty of shade perennials to make beautiful shade gardens (we’ll cover those next month), but your choices in a sunny spot are almost endless.

Below, I’ll save you a bit of trouble and list some of the best perennials to plant in the sun.

The first thing to check out is the plant’s growing zone. You can find out your growing zone with the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Plants outside of your zone will not grow in your area. Because I live in Zone 6b, my favorites may not be appropriate if you live in a very cold or very warm climate.

Remember also to look at size, whether it can tolerate partial shade even though it does best in the sun, what colors the blooms are, and what the bloom time is.

12 Full-Sun Perennials for Your Garden

Here’s some of my favorite full-sun perennials. I’m also including some important information that will help you to determine if they are the right plants for you.

‘Proud Berry’ Coralberry
Zones 3-7

The Coralberry is a shrub, growing 4’ tall and 4’ wide. It has berries of the most amazing pink, which unfortunately are not edible for humans. (The birds would thank you, though.) The berries hang onto the plant into the winter months, a nice pop of color under a light snow.

It prefers full sun, but will handle a bit of shade. It blooms in late summer, and the flowers develop into berries in the fall. It’s branches with berries are beautiful in a flower arrangement.

Pyromania Solar Flare Red Hot Poker
Zones 5-9

This plant grows 3’6” high and 2’6” wide, with bright yellow flowers of an uncommon shape. It blooms all summer and makes a great cut flower.

‘Curtain Call Deep Rose’ Japanese Anemone
Zones 4-8

This Anemone is happy in sun or part-shade. It grows to 18” tall and 18” wide, with pink flowers. The flowers bloom in late summer and early fall.

Red Creeping Thyme
Zones 5-10

Growing only 6” tall, this plant makes a beautiful magenta-red groundcover. Each plant will spread to about 10” wide, but over time they will spread even further. Planted short distances away from each other, they will form a large mat. Creeping Thyme works well on rock walls and between paving stones as well.

Mango Tango Anise Hyssop
Zones 6-9

This sun-loving plant grows 18” high and 16” wide. It can handle dry conditions and prefers a spot with good drainage. It’s peach and orange flowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall.

Prince of Orange Oriental Poppy
Zones 3-7

Vivid, orange, ruffled petals surround a dark center on this bright and happy plant. It prefers full sun, and grows 2’6” tall and 2’ wide. It blooms from late spring through early summer.

West Country Manhattan Lights Lupine
Zones 4-9

This variety blooms in part-sun and sun, and grows 3’ tall and 2’ wide. I love the classic blue Lupine, but what makes this one a favorite is its yellow and burgundy-purple flowers, which bloom in spring and early summer.

Beyond Midnight Bluebeard
Zones 5-9

This Caryopteris shrub variety produces tall blue flowers. It blooms from late summer to early fall, just as many flowers are checking out for the year, and grows 2’6” tall and 2’6” wide.
It needs full sun and good drainage to thrive. Soggy soil will cause root rot, killing your plant.

‘Denim ‘n Lace’ Russian Sage
Zones 4-9

This is a completely different plant to the sage we use as an herb. Its leaves are toxic and should not be eaten.

Denim and Lace provides beautiful wands of purple-blue flowers, on a plant that will grow to be 2-3’ high and 2-3’ wide. It prefers full sun, and blooms throughout summer to fall.

Decadence Deluxe ‘Pink Lemonade’
Zones 4-9

This is a Baptisia, sometimes known as False Indigo. Baptisia is available in a variety of colors, but Pink Lemonade is among my favorites. With its yellow and raspberry flowers, you’re getting two colors for the price of one.

It is a large plant, growing 4’ tall and 4’ wide, and almost looks like flowers in a vase, as it is narrow on the bottom and very full on top. It blooms from late April through June.

Dulce ‘Spearmint’ Coral Bells
Zones 4-9

This plant grows 10” high and 2 ½’ wide, and produces flowers in mid- to late summer which are light pink on the bottom and darker pink nearer the top. It is happy in sun or shade. It’s green leaves have a bit of a silver tint to them, providing interest even when the plant is not in bloom.

Delicious Candy Echinacea
Zones 4-8

This is a vivid pink flower. It grows 4’ wide and 6’ tall, a really sizable plant. They can handle part-shade, but will not produce as many flowers as they would in the sun. Echinacea is a medicinal plant. Blooms in mid-to-late summer.

Do you have Enough Plants for a Full-Sun Perennial Garden?

I first want to acknowledge that buying plants can be an expensive endeavor. Making a garden is not something that has to be done in one swoop. We can buy plants as we can afford them, and some years from now we’ll have the garden we imagined. And remember, gardening friends will be happy to give you splits of their plants, and some plants are easily grown by seed.

If you were to purchase everything on this list, you would have purple, yellow, raspberry, pink, red, orange, and burgundy flowers. Between them all, they would provide at least one blooming plant from late spring to winter. But remember, you may want to consider choosing fewer varieties and getting more of the ones you do choose.

Whatever you choose, keep in mind that gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about playing in the dirt, connecting to nature, and expressing your creativity. Whatever you think is beautiful, is beautiful.

What is your favorite full-sun perennial to grow?

Spring Gardening: 7 Cold Hardy Plants to Grow in March

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Are you wondering if March is too early to start a garden? This post explains what plants can survive in the cold, what is a winter hardy plant, what are the easiest plants to grow in winter and more.

The ground is attempting to thaw, which means mud season has officially arrived and with it my itch to garden and grow has returned in earnest. I’ve just gotten my new elevated garden beds from Gardener’s Supply Co built over the old garden bed and spread a thick layer of clover seed beneath with dreams of a carpet of clover to rest on come warmer days and now I can’t think how I could wait another two months for our last frost to start planting them. So we’re going to plant out a small cold hardy garden in the first two beds here just to tide us over until we can start planting the majority of our crops in May.

This will be the smallest planting we do all year, and so I committed to really savoring the sensory experience of it and slowing down to enjoy the process. All I need to bring with me are my seeds, my favorite trowel and gloves. And I’ll be bundling up because while these plants I’m growing may be cold hardy, I most certainly am not! So sweaters and hats and layers galore. I love the lack of urgency and the sense of hope I get from planting the first cold hardy garden of the season. Soon green things will push up out of the earth and remind us that we are all connected to the life that grows beneath our feet.

We have a short growing season here in New England, but that won’t stop me from planting cold hardy vegetables that can thrive in these colder temperatures. My garden is just a few short steps from the back door, overlooking 70+ acres of my neighbors fields and surrounded by the buzz of life beginning to stir - a blue heron in the distance, a mouse skittering through the undergrowth.

Out back the trees are still in their deep sleep and the sun is trying its hardest to break through the seemingly endless layer of gray clouds that has graced the sky for the past four months now. I can still see my breath as I exhale, and this too is a reminder to be mindful. I breathe the same air as these trees that rest around me, and thank them for how clean and fresh it feels within my lungs. This grounds me in my purpose to bring myself and my body closer to the living things that are all around us.

What is a winter garden?

A winter garden is just a garden that you grow using only plants that can thrive in winter! There are many fun varieties of cold hardy vegetables and perennial plants that have unique characteristics that help them to survive in colder climates. For instance, kale, brussels sprouts and other brassica plants produce a form of antifreeze when exposed to cold temperatures that actually causes the plants to taste sweeter. I enjoy winter kale far more than summer kale - not to mention, there’s no cabbage moth pests in the winter chewing through every leaf before I have a chance to harvest it.

What plants can survive in the cold?

Now I’ll preface this by saying that what can grow in my garden in March may not be the same as what can grow in your garden. If you are in California for example I’m afraid this post won’t be much help to you as you do not suffer from the same deep cold winters we have here in the northeast. But in grow zone 6B many plants can survive the chill of late winter - as a matter of fact, some plants like lettuce and spinach require a colder temperature in order to germinate. This is why you’ll begin to see signs of life in the form of things like wild onion grass even this early in the season when the trees are still sleeping. And since we’re all about low-energy gardening tips and tricks here, I’ll also only focus on what is the easiest plants to grow in winter. No seed starting, forcing rhubarb or chilling your garlic seed in the freezer to trick it into sprouting earlier here. I want to focus just on plants that can go straight into the ground in March. 

Winter plants for the garden:

Here is everything I will be planting in my cold hardy garden using my elevated beds from Gardener’s.

• Snap peas (germination temp 40+ F)

• Pansies (germination temp 45+F but we are planting these from established plants from the nursery not seeds)

• Lettuce (germination temp 35+F)

• Radish (germination temp 50+F)

• Spinach (germination temp 40+F)

• Chives (transplanting this from another spot, these grow well at temps above 40F)

• Calendula (this one is more of an experiment as while it is cold-hardy once established, it probably won’t germinate until soil temps reach 60 degrees fahrenheit)

What is a winter hardy plant?

A winter hardy plant means any plant that can survive average winter temperatures, including cold hardy vegetables and cold hardy perennials. Most winter hardy plants do not produce much throughout the winter due to the lack of sunlight but by surviving these cold conditions they are able to establish themselves faster in the spring which means they will be the first to yield a harvest since they will mature before anything else in your garden.

What can I plant in pots for winter?

Some plants that won’t survive the winter outdoors can be transplanted into pots for the winter and brought indoors. You can do this successfully with most herbs including rosemary and sage. You can also overwinter pepper plants (which are perennial in warmer climates) by cutting off all of the foliage except for the main Y shaped stem, moving into pots and storing in your basement. They will go dormant and then can be transplanted back into your garden beds after your last frost date.

When I was deciding what to plant in early spring, I was happy that everything I wanted to grow would thrive in my elevated garden beds - which meant I didn’t have to worry about hurting my back while gardening. With my arthritis, it’s important that the way I garden is accessible and gentle on my body while still providing me with opportunities to stretch and strengthen my joints. I found prepping the elevated raised beds to be the easiest it has ever been, since I didn’t even need to weed the planting area prior to starting. It feels like a true luxury to stand over my raised beds in the garden and I was able to save more of my limited energy for actually enjoying being in the garden instead of just trying to finish as quickly as possible before my energy ran out. The beds are quite deep and so they can support the largest root structures of some of the plants I’ll be growing with no problem.

I had honestly begun to dread spring garden prep last year. I found myself crying in frustration more than once trying to wrangle the wildness of my in-ground beds into shape for planting. It is really shocking how much harder it is to work the earth when your back is in pain and your energy reserves are lower. While I do greatly appreciate the physical benefits of working out via the garden, and weeding has always been the best way to let out any pent up aggression, my body has been telling me for a couple of years now that this isn’t the right way to go about it for me anymore. I feel lighter knowing that I won’t have these dark moments in the garden where I really have to push myself beyond my limits anymore and can just be present and enjoy the process of gardening again. A part of me felt worried I wouldn’t be taken seriously as a gardener if the majority of my plants were grown in what is effectively a giant container garden. Especially with our full acre to work with, I knew I wanted to take a hybrid approach. So we have perennials like asparagus and rhubarb in-ground since those don’t require much maintenance year-to-year and then larger crops like garlic in ground as well. And of course borders of wildflowers fill up a lot of space too. Eventually it is my dream to add a greenhouse to carry us through the endless winters. But these elevated beds have taken such a weight off my shoulders (and my back!) and gave me back my peace in the garden, and I would not trade that feeling for anything.

If you’re looking for winter garden ideas, I hope that you’ve found this post helpful. Don’t forget to check out this post on cold frame gardening to extend your growing season even further + Let me know in the comments what you are planting in your winter garden this year.

Make This Easy + Natural Botanical Hand Salve [Recipe]

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Although it felt for a moment as though we would never see spring again, suddenly I am waking up to to-do lists filled with seed starting tasks and dirt under my fingernails once more. But what is more inevitable than spring for a gardener? Calluses and dry skin galore from all that time spent working with our hands in the soil. It doesn’t seem to matter what gloves I wear, between the short, practical nails and the constant need to moisturize there is no point in the growing season where I have the hands of a model! Anyone who has struggled with gardener’s hands knows the eternal search for the perfect balm - some are too greasy, some seem to evaporate off your skin within seconds and have no effect, but to find the elusive, perfect hand balm is to discover the holy grail of the gardener’s toolbox.

So while I have been enjoying this time of growth and watching my little sprouts join the world and reach upward with their new leaves, the experience would be infinitely better if I had the benefit of a hand salve recipe that would support my skin through this intense part of the growing season. Whenever I find myself with a skin concern I always turn to Herbal Academy’s Botanical Skincare book because it has at least one of every common type of skincare product you could need, with easy to find ingredients and no complicated recipe processes that would leave me wondering if I had actually made the thing I was trying to make. Most of the recipes are so simple they fit on a single page, but don’t let the fact that the recipes are simple fool you into thinking these recipes are “just ok”. In fact, I believe their power lies in their simplicity. We don’t need a hundred different ingredients to achieve most of the desired effects and in the case of skincare I do believe less is actually more. The beautiful illustrations just keep me motivated to discover more.

Since my psoriasis diagnosis I’ve had to become extra careful about what I put on my skin, and so many commercial products available today have harsh ingredients that aggravate my skin condition. I like to be able to pronounce everything I am putting on my body if possible, and going with homemade skincare products helps me do this.

You really don’t need many supplies to make your own homemade hand cream in your kitchen either. As long as you have measuring cups and a repurposed container to store your finished natural calendula hand salve in, a double boiler can be made if you do not have one by placing a mason jar inside of your pot sitting on top of the lid of the jar to keep it from coming into direct contact with the heat source. It’s also a good idea to dedicate a stirring spoon that you don’t need anymore to the task as it may come into contact with ingredients that are not food safe. This spoon can be reused for all of your future skincare DIY projects - trust me, once you start making your own DIY lotion recipes you won’t be able to stop! You can of course purchase all the supplies needed - Mountain Rose Herbs is my supplier of choice for quality ingredients - but what could be more satisfying than creating homemade hand lotion recipes with plants you grew yourself? Growing calendula is easy and will add beauty to your garden before you harvest and dry for your homemade skincare projects. Once you get the hang of the process, these recipes also make one of kind gifts for birthdays, holidays and just-because presents that everyone will enjoy.

I’ll get into all of the details for how to make your own DIY lotion recipe at home below, but first let's talk a bit about the individual ingredients we will be using in this recipe. You’ll only need a few ingredients for this project, but if you feel like substituting something for one listed below there’s no harm in making the recipe your own. You’ll be able to mix up a batch in just a few minutes, and be well on your way to a calming self care ritual that is affordable, natural and zero-waste.

Calendula Flower

This wondrous flower is full of useful properties!

• Vulnerary – assists in promoting healing of tissues

• Anti-inflammatory – eases inflammation

• Hemostatic – helps to stanch bleeding  

• Topical analgesic – assists in relieving pain

• Astringent – promotes tightening and toning of tissues

• Antiseptic – helps to prevent or stop microbial growth

• Diaphoretic – assists the body during illness by promoting perspiration.

• Lymphagogue – assists in stimulating the lymphatic system

*The above information was taken from Calendula Monograph by the Herbal Academy, The Herbal Handbook by David Hoffmann, and Herbal Medicine From the Heart of the Earth by Sharol Tilgner

Licorice root

Licorice root may have potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects.

Plantain leaf

Plantain is high in vitamin A, allantoin, apigenin, aucubin, baicalein, linoleic acid, oleanolic acid, sorbitol and tannin which all promote wound healing, speed up cell regeneration and have skin-softening effects.

Beeswax

Beeswax hydrates, conditions, soothes, and calms the skin. It exfoliates, repairs damage, promotes the skin's regeneration, diminishes the appearance of the signs of aging, soothes itchiness and irritation, and creates a hydrating, long-lasting protective barrier against environmental pollutants.

In the case of our salve recipe, it will also help bind our liquid ingredients together in a more solid spreadable form. It is a popular ingredient in homemade salve recipes for that reason.

Sesame Oil

Sesame oil is rich in Vitamin B and E, which help soothe skin rashes and fade scars. It is also very effective in treating skin conditions like inflammation, eczema, athlete's foot, psoriasis, and redness. The natural anti-tanning properties of Sesame oil make it an excellent barrier against the sun's harmful rays.

HOW TO MAKE CALENDULA INFUSED OIL

There are many ways to make an infused oil but my favorite is a simple folk method - this means we won’t be making any exact measurements. You’ll find that many herbalists employ a folk method for their skincare concoctions since accuracy in dosing is not generally a requirement unless taken internally.

To make an infused oil using the folk method, all you need to do is fill your mason jar about halfway with your plant ingredients, then cover at least an inch above the herbs with your oil of choice. I usually end up filling the jar almost all the way to the top. Tap lightly on a solid surface to make sure there are no air bubbles trapped in the oil and place the infusing oil jar in a cool dark place such as a closet or pantry (somewhere out of direct sunlight) for about six weeks. You can regularly shake the jar to redistribute the oil, and you may notice that after the first day or two much of the oil has been absorbed into the dried herbs and you will need to add more to keep the flowers completely covered in oil. This is normal and to be expected. I have more detailed instructions available here.

The calendula + friends oil used in the recipe below is made more precisely, with 1 cup sesame oil, 1/4 cup calendula, 1/8 cup licorice root and 1/8 cup plantain leaves. You can do a hot infusion to speed up the infusion process as well. For the full recipe be sure and grab the Botanical Skincare Recipe Book here.

So are you wondering when I’m going to tell you how to make hand lotion at home? Let’s get to it! This recipe comes from the Botanical skincare course from Herbal Academy and its corresponding book of recipes - you can see my full review of this in depth course here.

Calendula + Friend Salve Recipe from the Botanical Skincare book by Herbal Academy:

This nourishing and richly moisturizing calendula salve recipe is perfect for dry, cracked hands that have been in the soil all day!

Ingredients

• 1 cup calendula + friends infused oil

• 2-4 tbsp beeswax

Directions 

• Place infused oil and beeswax in a double boiler over low heat (or a glass or ceramic bowl or canning jar over a small saucepan of simmering water) until beeswax has melted and ingredients are thoroughly combined.

• Dip a clean spoon in to the formula and place it into the refrigerator so the salve will cool quickly and you can determine if its consistency is what you desire. If the sample is too soft, add a little more wax to the warm salve; the sample is too hard, add a little more of the infused oil.

• While warm, pour individual portions into appropriate containers and allow to cool at room temperature.

• Once cool put the lids on and label.

• Store in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year.

Will you try this recipe? Learn herbalism with Herbal Academy by clicking here

Acupressure For Pain And Anxiety: Pranamat ECO Honest Review

When my arthritis spread to my spine last year, it was crippling. I lost sleep every night tossing and turning, completely unable to relax. This vicious cycle of pain leads to stress which releases cortisol, causing even more pain and discomfort. This wasn’t the kind of pain that would go away if I took enough anti-inflammatory pills, it was all encompassing to the point where I’d give up on sleep at 3 or 4 in the morning and just go lie on the couch until the sun rose. It’s hard for me to even type this, remembering how much time I spent crying and wishing for the pain to stop. It felt like my identity had been stripped away and all that was left was my pain. From the outside, I looked “too young to be sick”, but inside I was suffering.

In dark times like this, you learn very quickly that your vulnerability will be exploited by anyone who thinks they can turn your pain into profit. I’ve always been a conscious consumer and didn’t want to fall into any of these traps. But I’ve also always leaned towards the holistic side of things and wanted to find options for pain relief that aligned with my desire for natural alternatives while still providing proof of their effectiveness.

As you’ll see, the benefits of acupressure mats are widely studied and there is plenty of research to back up their claims. So I decided to give it a try. And what I found was life-changing. Or in my case, life-giving.

How does acupressure work?

The 10,000+ plastic spikes on the Pranamat ECO lotus flowers help to stimulate blood flow, increasing circulation, releasing muscle tension, opening narrowed blood vessels caused by tension that may result in headaches, spreading soothing heat, kick-starting cell regeneration required for healing and encouraging the body to suppress cortisol (the stress hormone) and release endorphins (a natural painkiller), resulting in a euphoric feeling.

What is acupressure vs acupuncture?

Both acupressure and acupuncture are holistic and drug-free approaches to health. Acupressure uses targeted non-invasive pressure points on the surface of the skin while acupuncture uses extremely thin needles set into the skin. Acupressure can be done at home to deliver an at home massage every day while acupuncture must be performed by a licensed practitioner.

How often should you do acupressure?

Pranamat recommends using your acupressure mat at least once a day for twenty minutes. You can start off at 5 or 10 minutes until you get used to the sensation since it can be quite intense!

Does acupressure Work for joint pain?

Yes, acupressure mats are excellent for relieving joint pain, and if you’re wondering if acupressure for back pain is effective, it is! The effectiveness of Pranamat ECO is clinically-evidenced. Two studies were funded by the European Union in 2014. In this study, 97% observed total muscle relaxation, improved posture, and a stronger-feeling spine, 93% observed a total elimination or significant reduction of back pain and 92% reported that they would continue to use Pranamat ECO.

The first part of the study consisted of rigorous laboratory testing. The team of doctors came to the conclusion that use of the Pranamat ECO acupressure mat:

• Significantly increases the intensity of blood flow in the circulation of the skin;

• Accelerates cell metabolism;

• Reduces inflammation of the muscles and joints;

• Reported elimination or dramatic reduction in pain.

In the second part of the study, they showed that after 30 days of using the Pranamat ECO acupressure mat patients experienced:

• Improved oxygenation of tissues;

• Improved muscle-tone;

• Increased cell metabolism;

• Improved physical and emotional health.

It’s clear that there are many acupressure benefits for both mental and physical health.

What is Pranamat ECO made from?

The inner padding of the Pranamat ECO acupressure mat is made from sustainable coconut fiber as a supportive filler that is naturally resistant to dust, mold and odor. The removable exterior is made of sustainable linen and uses bespoke natural dyes. All materials used in the Pranamat ECO are natural and ethically sourced, custom-made and have passed rigorous quality tests. The STANDARD 100 certificate independently awarded by OEKO-TEX® guarantees that Pranamat ECO is free from harmful substances and safe for intensive skin contact.

Is Pranamat ECO sustainable?

Pranamat ECO is the only acupressure mat made using energy from only renewable sources and all materials are zero waste and sourced locally. The coconut fiber filler is a by-product from the food industry. The 10,000+ pointed spines on the lotus flowers designed to increase blood and lymph flow from the very first minute of use are made from recyclable plastic that uses less energy and fresh water and produces fewer emissions. This recycled plastic is completely smooth and non-porous and utilizes special heat adhesion technology to attach the lotus flowers to prevent any exposure to toxic glues, acetone or chemical fumes. Even the packaging and user guide are made with recycled and biodegradable materials.

Is Pranamat ECO ethically manufactured?

This acupressure mat is produced by hand using ethical production methods in a creative, egalitarian and diverse work environment in Latvia.

Does acupressure help anxiety?

Yes, acupressure mats may help relieve anxiety. Clinical studies have shown that using Pranamat Eco for 30 days helps relieve stress, improves mood and general well-being. 

Does acupressure affect blood pressure?

More research is needed, but one study suggests acupressure mats lower your blood pressure by stimulating blood circulation and relaxation.

How big is the Pranamat ECO?

The surface of the Pranamat ECO acupressure mat is larger than most acupressure mats, allowing it to cover your entire back. This acupressure mat measures 28.7 × 17.7 inches.

How fast does acupressure work?

I noticed the benefits of this acupressure mat within the first few minutes of the first massage, starting with a sensation of warmth in the skin. About ten minutes in, a deep sense of calm and peace rolls over me and quiets my mind.

Pranamat ECO Acupressure Mat Review

I’ll be honest; using the Pranamat Eco can be an intense experience at first. When I laid down on the acupressure mat for the first time, the tingling sensation was very strong and I had to take some deep breaths to settle in. At first, my skin felt very hot as the spikes pressing into my back increased my circulation, but after the first two or three minutes this heat transforms into a soothing warmth. If you’re nervous about using the mat directly on your skin the first time, you can try it while wearing a thin cotton t-shirt at first just to get used to it. But once the initial surprise subsides, you will find your mind and body relaxing dramatically. I suffer from back and joint pain due to my chronic illness as well as generalized anxiety, and the near-immediate effects I felt were a release of the muscle tension I hold all day every day in my body and a quieting of my mind. Usually my thoughts are going off in a million directions every minute, but after using the Pranamat ECO acupressure mat for twenty minutes I felt clear headed and calm. The more than I use my acupressure mat, the faster I am able to settle into that calm headspace. The initial sensation is less intense over time as your body adjusts (which doesn’t dull the benefits at all!) so I can truly lean into the experience right away.

I use my Pranamat ECO at night just before going to bed to combat insomnia so I can sleep deeply without interruption. Since acupressure has such a calming effect on my sleep routine, I am more energized and ready to take on the day the next morning.

I also like to keep my mat nearby while I’m working all day or reading in the evenings so that I can get a quick massage while I work or read. You can use this acupressure mat while laying down or place it in your desk chair. I also use the foot mat while sitting at my desk or cooking dinner to relieve foot pain and recharge.

Here’s the thing…there’s a lot of cheap knock-offs of the Pranamat ECO - and I’ve tried them! They don’t compare. It’s like the difference between sleeping on an air mattress and an actual bed. I wanted to share this because while it may seem like a simple thing to replicate (just add spikey bits to a piece of foam and fabric) there’s more going on in the construction of this mat than meets the eye, from the density of the inner coconut fiber mat to the thickness and shape of the lotus spikes. Most important to me is the fact that Pranamat has been awarded the STANDARD 100 certificate by OEKO-TEX®, which guarantees that Pranamat ECO is free from harmful substances - so important for a product that comes in intensive contact with your skin.

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Individual results may vary. Products mentioned and texts written on this website are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease and do not replace medical advice. Advice on the treatment or care of an individual patient should be obtained through consultation with a physician or trained healthcare practitioner with access to examine the patient and/or is familiar with the patient's medical history.