Watering Plants in Your Greenhouse Garden [Hometown Structures]

Proper watering and humidity management are essential for healthy plant growth in a greenhouse. By understanding the specific needs of your plants and maintaining optimal conditions, you can create a thriving environment for your garden.

Watering Your Greenhouse Plants

Understanding Soil Moisture in Your Greenhouse

Proper soil moisture is crucial for healthy plant growth in a greenhouse. If the soil is too dry, plants can become stressed and wilt. If the soil is too wet, roots can rot. To check soil moisture, there’s a few things you can do. The simplest method is to insert your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle. If it feels dry, it's time to water. For more precise measurements, use a soil moisture meter. These devices measure the electrical conductivity of the soil, which correlates to moisture levels. If you're growing plants in pots, lift them regularly. A dry pot will weigh less than a wet pot.

Factors Affecting Soil Moisture in Your Greenhouse

Larger pots hold more moisture than smaller pots, and different soil types have different water-holding capacities. Sandy soils drain quickly, while clay soils retain moisture longer. Higher temperatures in summer months will also increase evaporation, leading to drier soil, while high humidity can slow down soil drying. You should also keep in mind that different plants have different water needs. Succulents and cacti require less water than leafy greens.

When watering your greenhouse plants, it's essential to water deeply until the water runs out of the drainage holes in your pots or raised beds. Deep watering encourages plants to develop longer, deeper roots. These deeper roots can help plants access water and nutrients from deeper in the soil, making them more resilient to drought conditions. By ensuring that water drains freely from the pot or raised bed, you can help prevent root rot. Root rot occurs when roots are constantly exposed to excess moisture. Deep watering helps to flush nutrients through the soil, making them more readily available to plant roots and can help to improve soil structure by breaking up compacted soil and allowing for better air circulation.

How to Water Deeply

Use a slow hose or watering can and avoid using a forceful hose that can erode the soil and damage delicate roots. Continue watering until water starts to drain from the bottom of the pot or raised bed. This indicates that the soil is thoroughly saturated. Ensure that your pots or raised beds have adequate drainage holes to allow excess water to escape.

Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes made by greenhouse gardeners. When plants are consistently exposed to excess moisture, it can lead to a variety of problems. Root rot is a fungal disease that occurs when roots are constantly submerged in water. It can cause the roots to rot and decay, leading to plant death. Other fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew and gray mold, can also thrive in humid conditions. These diseases can cause unsightly spots, discoloration, and stunted growth. Overwatering can also create ideal conditions for pests, such as aphids and fungus gnats. These pests can damage plants and reduce yields.

Signs of Overwatering Plants in Your Greenhouse

Yellowing leaves can be a sign of overwatering. However, it's important to note that yellowing leaves can also be caused by other factors, such as nutrient deficiencies or root problems. If the stems of your plants feel soft or mushy, it could be a sign of overwatering. You can also look for signs of mold or mildew on the leaves, stems, or flowers as well as stunted growth or poor flowering. To avoid overwatering, it's important to allow the soil to dry out slightly between waterings. 

Automated Watering Systems for Greenhouses

Drip Irrigation Systems

Drip irrigation systems are a highly efficient way to deliver water directly to the roots of your plants. These systems use a network of pipes and emitters to slowly release water at a controlled rate. Drip irrigation systems minimize water waste by delivering water directly to the roots, reducing evaporation and runoff. By providing water directly to the roots, drip irrigation can help to prevent diseases and promote healthy plant growth. Drip irrigation systems can be used to deliver fertilizers and other nutrients directly to the roots, improving plant nutrition. Drip irrigation systems can also be automated, reducing the need for manual watering and saving time.

Misting Systems

Misting systems are often used in greenhouses to increase humidity levels and cool plants. These systems use a network of nozzles to release a fine mist of water into the air. Misting systems can help to maintain optimal humidity levels for plants that require high humidity, such as tropical plants. Misting systems can help to cool the greenhouse during hot weather, reducing stress on plants. Misting systems can help to control certain diseases by reducing the spread of fungal spores.

Choosing the Right System for Your Greenhouse

The best watering system for your greenhouse will depend on several factors. Larger greenhouses may require more complex irrigation systems. Additionally, different plants have different watering needs. Some plants may require more frequent or less frequent watering. Drip irrigation and misting systems can vary in cost. Consider your budget when choosing a system. You should also decide how much automation you want in your watering system. Some systems can be fully automated, while others may require manual adjustments.

Managing Humidity in Your Greenhouse

Adequate ventilation is crucial for maintaining a healthy environment in your greenhouse. It helps to regulate temperature, humidity, and carbon dioxide levels, all of which are essential for optimal plant growth. Excessive humidity can lead to fungal diseases and pest problems. By opening vents and doors, you can allow fresh air to circulate and reduce humidity levels. Proper ventilation helps to prevent condensation on the walls and roof of your greenhouse, which can create a damp environment that promotes mold and mildew growth. Ventilation ensures a constant supply of fresh air, which is essential for plant health and photosynthesis.

Ventilation and Temperature in Your Greenhouse

During hot weather, opening vents and doors can help to cool your greenhouse. This is especially important for plants that require cooler temperatures. Adequate ventilation helps to prevent heat stress in plants, which can lead to wilting and reduced growth.

Ventilation and Carbon Dioxide

Plants need carbon dioxide for photosynthesis. While greenhouses naturally produce some carbon dioxide through respiration, ventilation can help to ensure a sufficient supply. If your greenhouse has a high concentration of carbon dioxide, it can create a stuffy environment that is harmful to plants. Ventilation can help to remove excess CO2.

Tips for Ventilation

Use a hygrometer and thermometer to monitor humidity and temperature levels in your greenhouse. Adjust ventilation as needed to maintain optimal conditions. For larger greenhouses, consider installing automatic vents that can be programmed to open and close based on temperature and humidity levels. Installing fans can help to circulate air and improve ventilation, especially in smaller greenhouses.

When to Use a Dehumidifier in Your Greenhouse

High humidity levels can create a number of problems in a greenhouse. Excessive moisture can promote the growth of fungal diseases, such as powdery mildew and gray mold. High humidity can also create ideal conditions for pests, such as aphids and fungus gnats. High humidity can interfere with photosynthesis, the process by which plants use sunlight to convert carbon dioxide and water into glucose. If you notice signs of high humidity, such as condensation on the walls or roof of your greenhouse, or if your plants are experiencing problems, it may be time to consider using a dehumidifier.

Choosing the Right Dehumidifier for Your Greenhouse

When selecting a dehumidifier for your greenhouse, there’s a few things to keep in mind. The larger your greenhouse, the more powerful the dehumidifier you'll need. You should fetermine the average humidity levels in your greenhouse to help you choose a dehumidifier with the appropriate capacity. If your greenhouse is located in a residential area, you may want to choose a quiet dehumidifier. Look for a dehumidifier with a high energy efficiency rating to reduce your energy costs.

Place the dehumidifier in a central location in your greenhouse to ensure that it can effectively remove moisture from the air. Avoid placing it near plants or other objects that could obstruct airflow.

Improving Air Circulation in Your Greenhouse

Installing fans in your greenhouse is an effective way to improve air circulation and reduce humidity levels. Fans help to distribute warm air throughout the greenhouse, preventing hot spots and cold spots. This can help to ensure that your plants receive consistent temperatures and humidity levels.

Fans can help to reduce humidity by moving air across the surface of plants, promoting evaporation. This can help to prevent fungal diseases and other problems caused by excessive moisture. Fans can help to distribute heat throughout the greenhouse, preventing hot spots that can damage plants. Fans can help to simulate wind and disperse pollen, promoting pollination in plants that require cross-pollination.  Increased air circulation can help to deter pests, such as aphids and spider mites.

Types of Fans for Greenhouses

Ceiling Fans: Ceiling fans are a popular choice for greenhouses, as they can effectively circulate air throughout the entire space.

Wall-Mounted Fans: Wall-mounted fans are a good option for smaller greenhouses or areas where ceiling fans are not practical.

Portable Fans: Portable fans can be moved around the greenhouse to target specific areas that need improved ventilation.

While water features can add beauty to your greenhouse, they can also increase humidity levels. Be mindful of this when deciding whether to include a pond or fountain.

Humidity and Plant Growth in Your Greenhouse

Many tropical plants thrive in high-humidity environments. However, excessive humidity can lead to fungal diseases and pest problems. Some plants, such as succulents and cacti, prefer low-humidity conditions. Excessive dryness can cause certain plants to wilt and become stressed.

Monitoring Humidity Levels in Your Greenhouse

A hygrometer is a simple and inexpensive tool that measures the relative humidity of the air. Place a hygrometer in a central location in your greenhouse to get an accurate reading. The ideal humidity level for your greenhouse will depend on the types of plants you are growing. Most plants prefer a humidity level between 50% and 70%. However, some plants, such as tropical plants, require higher humidity levels.

Adjusting Ventilation in Your Greenhouse

During hot and humid weather, open vents and doors to allow fresh air to circulate and reduce humidity levels. During cold weather or when humidity levels are too low, close vents and doors to retain heat and moisture. For larger greenhouses, consider installing automatic vents that can be programmed to open and close based on humidity levels.

Using Dehumidifiers or Humidifiers in Your Greenhouse

If humidity levels are consistently high, consider using a dehumidifier to remove excess moisture from the air. Dehumidifiers are especially useful during the summer months when humidity levels tend to be high. If humidity levels are too low, you can use a humidifier to add moisture to the air. Humidifiers are often used during the winter months when the air tends to be dry.

Grouping Plants by Humidity Requirements in Your Greenhouse

• High-Humidity Plants: Group plants that require high humidity levels, such as tropical plants and ferns, together in a separate area of your greenhouse. You can create a humid microclimate by misting the plants regularly or using a humidifier.

• Low-Humidity Plants: Group plants that prefer low humidity levels, such as succulents and cacti, together in a drier area of your greenhouse. You can reduce humidity levels in this area by increasing ventilation or using a dehumidifier.

• Medium-Humidity Plants: Most plants prefer moderate humidity levels. These plants can be grouped together in a central area of your greenhouse.

Looking for a high quality pre-made greenhouse in Massachusetts? Hometown Structures offers the finest craftsmanship with custom designs in a wide variety of sizes perfect for the home gardener to give your plants the perfect climate to thrive in a protected environment, keep pests away from your plants, grow plants and food that don’t otherwise exist in your area/climate and extend your season with options including 8mm twin wall polycarbonate for optimal insulation, venting and windows. Every custom shed greenhouse comes with 50-Year LP Siding and 30-Year Collapse From Snow Warranty.

Tap here to visit their website to learn more and book a design consultation today.

Pollination in Greenhouse Gardening [Hometown Structures]

By far the most common question I get about growing vegetables in my Hometown Structures greenhouse is “but how do the plants get pollinated?” And as with most things in gardening, the answer just isn’t that straightforward. Of course, it is an important consideration when planning what you will grow in your greenhouse garden! The truth is, I don’t rely on pollinators in my greenhouse the same way that I do in my outdoor vegetable garden, and there’s a few reasons for this - as well as a few techniques I use instead to ensure my flowering plants are being manually pollinated by hand so they can produce the harvests I want them to. While there’s certain limitations in pollinating a greenhouse garden, most of them are easily overcome, allowing you to grow a wide variety of fruits and vegetables in your greenhouse with very little extra time and attention.

The role of pollinators

Without getting too science-y on you, pollinators play a crucial role in a garden by transferring pollen from the male part (stamen) of a flower to the female part (pistil). This process is essential for the fertilization of plants and the production of seeds and fruits. Pollinators ensure that plants can reproduce and continue to exist. A diverse population of pollinators supports a wide variety of plant species in a garden. Many of the fruits and vegetables we eat rely on pollinators for their production, and pollinators contribute to the overall health and balance of the ecosystem in a garden. Common pollinators in gardens include bees, butterflies, moths, hummingbirds, and bats. But of course, these creatures can have a difficult time finding and entering your greenhouse!

How do bugs pollinate plants in the garden?

Bugs have a few clever tricks to spread pollen from one flower to another. As they buzz around, pollen sticks to their furry bodies. When they visit another flower, some of this pollen can rub off, fertilizing the plant. Some bugs have long tongues that they use to suck nectar from flowers. As they do this, pollen can get stuck to their tongues and be transferred to other flowers. Other insects can vibrate their bodies to shake pollen loose from flowers. This helps to ensure that the pollen is spread effectively to many different plants.

How does pollination affect yield and fruit production?

When a pollinator successfully transfers pollen to the female part of a flower, it can lead to fertilization. Fertilization results in the development of seeds, which are essential for the reproduction of plants. In many cases, the development of seeds triggers the growth and maturation of fruits. These fruits often contain nutrients and are attractive to animals (including us humans!), which can help disperse the seeds. Without pollination, many plants would be unable to reproduce, leading to reduced yields and fewer fruits.

In a greenhouse, it is often a closed environment which pollinators cannot enter. Even in a backyard greenhouse with open windows and doors throughout the season, it is less likely that you will see a large population of pollinators inside, simply because it is not an organic environment or as much a part of the local ecosystem. While companion planting pollinator friendly varieties may help, we need to consider this when choosing what to plant and pick varieties that have self pollination features, or can be hand pollinated.

Which vegetable plants need pollination?

Many vegetable plants require pollination to produce fruit. However, this does not mean they need pollinators in order to do it, since many are what is called self-pollinating. Some common examples include anything in the Cucurbits family which includes squash, zucchini, pumpkins, cucumbers, and melons as well as the Solanaceae family of plants which includes tomatoes, peppers, eggplants. Legumes such as beans and peas and many fruits such as apples, berries, cherries, and peaches also require pollination.

How does biodiversity affect pollination?

A diverse ecosystem with a variety of plant species and pollinators can lead to more efficient and effective pollination. Some pollinators have evolved to specialize on particular plant species. A diverse ecosystem can support a wider range of specialized relationships, ensuring that more plants are pollinated. When multiple pollinators are available, they can visit more flowers, increasing the chances of successful pollination. It really is a numbers game! A diverse ecosystem is more resilient to disturbances, such as habitat loss or climate change, which can affect pollination rates. A diverse ecosystem can also support genetic diversity among plants, which can make them more resistant to pests and diseases.

What is self pollination?

Self-pollination occurs when pollen from a plant's own stamen (male part) is transferred to its own pistil (female part). This can happen in the same flower or between different flowers on the same plant. While self-pollination can ensure that a plant reproduces, it can also lead to inbreeding depression. This is when offspring inherit harmful genetic traits from both parents. To avoid inbreeding depression, many plants have evolved mechanisms to prevent self-pollination, such as having separate male and female flowers or releasing pollen at different times. However, self-pollination can be beneficial in certain situations, such as when pollinators are scarce or when a plant is isolated such as in a greenhouse.

What plants are capable of self pollination?

Many vegetable plants can self pollinate, making them a good choice for a greenhouse garden. Some examples include:

Tomatoes: While they can also be cross-pollinated by bees, tomatoes are primarily self-pollinating.

Peppers: Similar to tomatoes, peppers can self-pollinate, but cross-pollination can often lead to higher yields.

Eggplants: Eggplants are also self-pollinating plants.

Squash: Many varieties of squash, such as zucchini and yellow squash, are self-pollinating.

Cucumbers: While cucumbers are typically cross-pollinated, some varieties can self-pollinate.

Beans: Beans are self-pollinating plants.

Peas: Peas are also self-pollinating.

What is cross pollination?

Cross pollination occurs when pollen from one plant is transferred to the pistil of another different plant. Insects, birds, bats, and other animals can transport pollen from one plant to another as they gather nectar or pollen for food. Wind can carry pollen from one plant to another, especially in plants with small, lightweight pollen grains. In aquatic plants, pollen can be carried by water currents. Cross-pollination can lead to genetic diversity among offspring, as they inherit traits from both parents. This can make them more resistant to pests, diseases, and environmental changes.

How can you pollinate plants by hand in a greenhouse?

Pollinate greenhouse plants with hand pollination:

First differentiate between male and female flowers based on their structures. Male flowers typically have stamens (pollen-producing organs), while female flowers have pistils (ovary-containing organs). Gently touch the stamen of a male flower to the pistil of a female flower. This will transfer pollen grains, potentially leading to fertilization. Perform this process for multiple flowers to increase the chances of successful pollination.

Pollinate greenhouse plants with fans:

Place fans within the greenhouse to circulate air and disperse pollen. This can help simulate natural wind and increase the likelihood of pollen reaching different plants. Experiment with different fan speeds and placement to find the optimal conditions for pollen dispersal.

Pollinate greenhouse plants by shaking plants:

Gently shake or tap plants to dislodge pollen and facilitate its movement. This technique can be particularly effective for plants with dangling or pendulous flowers.

Pollinate greenhouse plants using a small paintbrush:

Gently brush a small paintbrush against the stamens of male flowers to collect pollen. Apply the pollen-laden paintbrush to the pistils of female flowers.

Timing pollination correctly successful fruit production.

Look for flowers that have fully opened and are displaying their reproductive organs. Some plants exhibit color changes in their flowers when they are ready for pollination. For example, tomato flowers often turn yellow.

Ensure that the plant is healthy and growing vigorously. A stressed or unhealthy plant may not be receptive to pollination. Provide the plant with sufficient nutrients to support flowering and fruiting.

Many plants have optimal temperature ranges for pollination. Research the specific requirements of your plant species. High humidity can promote fungal growth and interfere with pollination. Maintain adequate ventilation in your greenhouse or garden.

If you are relying on pollinators, monitor their activity around your plants. When you see them visiting flowers, it's a good sign that the plants are ready for pollination.

If you're unsure, try pollinating a few flowers at different stages of development to see what works best.

Looking for a high quality pre-made greenhouse in Massachusetts? Hometown Structures offers the finest craftsmanship with custom designs in a wide variety of sizes perfect for the home gardener to give your plants the perfect climate to thrive in a protected environment, keep pests away from your plants, grow plants and food that don’t otherwise exist in your area/climate and extend your season with options including 8mm twin wall polycarbonate for optimal insulation, venting and windows. Every custom shed greenhouse comes with 50-Year LP Siding and 30-Year Collapse From Snow Warranty.

Tap here to visit their website to learn more and book a design consultation today.

How To Control Greenhouse Temperature [Hometown Structures]

Why is temperature control in greenhouse gardening important?

Plants are fussy - and while we can do everything in our power to work with nature and not against it by planting things in season that love the heat or cold, there will always be times in owning a greenhouse where you want to control the temperature. Thankfully when I designed my greenhouse with Hometown Structures we were able to implement a lot of features that help to keep things cool in the summer and warm in the winter, but since different plants have specific temperature requirements for germination, growth, flowering, and fruiting, maintaining these conditions with every available tool is important to ensure healthy development. 

Extreme temperatures can cause stress, leading to stunted growth, reduced yield, and susceptibility to diseases and pests - while on the opposite end of things consistent temperature management results in better flavor, color, and nutritional value in crops. Which means happier plants and more food in your harvest basket.

If you’re growing food in a greenhouse with a focus on keeping things low maintenance, then it’s even more important to get your temperature under control, since many diseases and pests thrive in extreme temperature conditions which cause plant stress. Maintaining optimal temperatures can help prevent disease outbreaks and precise temperature control allows for efficient use of heating and cooling systems, reducing energy consumption and costs.

What are the challenges of excess heat in a greenhouse?

High temperatures can be harmful to many plants because extreme heat causes plants to lose water faster, making them wilt and dry out. This can slow down or stop the process that plants use to turn sunlight into food, which affects their growth. Hot weather also makes it harder for plants to get nutrients from the soil, which can weaken them, can cause flowers and fruits to fall off before they're ripe, and can burn plant leaves. These conditions also encourage pests and diseases to thrive. Not to mention, to cool down plants, air conditioning systems need to work harder, which increases energy costs.

What are the challenges of excess cold in a greenhouse?

Cold temperatures can als be a big problem in a greenhouse. When it's cold, plants may grow much slower, and very cold temperatures can damage or even kill plants. Cold weather also delays the start of flowering and fruit production. Cold air holds less water, which can lead to plant diseases, and to keep plants warm, you need to use a lot of energy, which can cost a lot of money unless you use natural, energy efficient techniques.

Natural greenhouse Ventilation Techniques

Natural ventilation helps keep greenhouses healthy by letting fresh air in and old air out. But it can also help you regulate the temperature of your greenhouse. Two main parts of a greenhouse that help with this are vents on the top and sides, called ridge vents, and special side panel vents called louvered side panels. You can also strategically place doors and windows to take advantage of cross breezes.

Ridge vents are located at the very top of the greenhouse roof, while side vents are on the walls. How these vents are placed is important for good airflow. Since hot air rises, the top vents should be positioned to pull hot air out like a chimney. The side vents should be on the side where the wind usually comes from to let cool air in. Together, these vents create a draft that helps to keep the greenhouse air fresh.

Side panels with louvers have adjustable slats that let you control how much air comes into the greenhouse. By changing the angle of the slats, you can decide how much air to let in based on the weather and what your plants need. This helps you keep the greenhouse at the perfect temperature and humidity level.

Manual and automated ventilation options:

Manual ventilation involves opening and closing vents by hand based on weather conditions. While labor-intensive, it provides precise control. You can also use automated ventilation, which has sensors that monitor temperature and humidity levels, triggering the automatic opening and closing of vents. This method offers convenience and energy efficiency.

Shade Cloth To Keep Things Cool

Shade cloth is a mesh-like material that reduces solar radiation entering the greenhouse. It comes in different percentages that define how thick the material is and how much light can still get through.  The ideal shading percentage depends on several factors - different plants have varying light requirements, and solar intensity varies by region.Light levels also change throughout the year. But generally, shade cloth percentages range from 30% to 90% with 30-40% being the most common.

During peak summer months, higher shading percentages may be necessary to prevent overheating. As daylight hours shorten and solar intensity decreases in the fall and winter, shade cloth can be removed or replaced with a lower percentage.

Exterior sunscreens are installed on the outside of the greenhouse to reflect solar heat before it enters. These can be painted on and typically wash off over the course of a year or so naturally. Some are also made of reflective materials like aluminum or acrylic coatings that deflect a portion of the sun's rays, preventing them from entering the greenhouse and contributing to heat buildup. Reflective sunscreens can also help protect plants from intense UV radiation.

Evaporative Cooling Systems

Evaporative cooling is a common method to reduce greenhouse temperatures, particularly in dry climates. It works by taking advantage of the cooling effect of water evaporation. Wet wall or pad systems are a popular choice for evaporative cooling in greenhouses. These systems involve a porous material, often made of cellulose or synthetic fibers, that is saturated with water. As hot air is drawn through the wet pad, the water evaporates, absorbing heat from the air and cooling it down. This cooled air is then circulated through the greenhouse.

Installation typically involves mounting the wet pads on one or more sides of the greenhouse. A water distribution system is required to keep the pads constantly wet.   

Proper maintenance includes regular cleaning of the pads to prevent clogging and ensuring adequate water supply. It's essential to monitor water quality to prevent mineral buildup and damage to the pads.

Misting and fogging systems spray tiny drops of water into the greenhouse. This helps cool specific plants or areas by making the air around them humid. It can also help some plants by adding moisture to the air. But too much mist can cause plant diseases, so it's important to be careful.

Evaporative cooling systems can make greenhouses cooler, but how well they work depends on things like how humid it is, how hot the air is, and how much air is moving around. It's important to think about these things when setting up and using an evaporative cooling system.

Greenhouse Temperature Management Through Watering

Water can help cool down a greenhouse in addition to keeping plants hydrated. Using cold water to water your plants can slightly cool the soil and plants, which can help the whole greenhouse feel cooler. However, this cooling effect is small and works best when used with other cooling methods.

Drip irrigation delivers water directly to the root zone, minimizing water loss through evaporation. This reduces soil moisture levels, which can help lower soil temperature and subsequently, air temperature. Soil moisture sensors can be used to optimize watering, preventing excessive moisture that can lead to increased humidity and potential disease issues.

Wetting pathways and floors can be effective in small greenhouses or during short periods of extreme heat. However, excessive moisture can create a humid environment, which is not ideal for all plants and can promote disease development. It's crucial to balance the benefits of cooling through watering with potential drawbacks like increased humidity and disease risks. These techniques should be used in conjunction with other cooling methods for optimal temperature management.

Heating a greenhouse

Thermal mass and heat storage are effective strategies for harnessing solar energy to heat a greenhouse. By capturing and releasing heat strategically, these methods can significantly reduce reliance on traditional heating systems. You can use things like water, rocks, or bricks to store heat from the sun in your greenhouse. This helps keep it warm without using a lot of heat from other sources. These materials soak up the sun’s heat during the day and slowly release it at night.

As the greenhouse cools down at night, the thermal mass materials gradually release stored heat, warming the surrounding air. This helps to maintain a more stable temperature throughout the night.

Underground Cooling Pipes

While primarily used for cooling, underground pipes can also contribute to heat storage. During the day, excess heat can be transferred to underground pipes filled with water. The earth acts as a heat sink, storing the heat. At night, the warmer water can be circulated back into the greenhouse to provide supplementary heat.

Insulating a greenhouse

Insulation is crucial for maintaining a stable temperature within a greenhouse, especially during colder months. Insulation acts as a barrier, preventing heat from escaping the greenhouse. This helps to maintain a warmer interior even when outside temperatures drop. By reducing heat loss, insulation helps to lower heating costs. Insulation contributes to a more stable internal temperature, reducing fluctuations that can stress plants. A well-insulated greenhouse can better withstand sudden drops in temperature.

Common insulation materials for greenhouses include:

• Bubble wrap: Offers a cost-effective and lightweight solution.   

• Insulation blankets: Provide excellent insulation and can be easily removed when not needed.

• Reflective insulation: Helps to reduce heat loss and reflect sunlight.   

• Foam board insulation: Offers high R-value for superior insulation.

The choice of building materials significantly influences a greenhouse's ability to retain heat. Glass offers excellent light transmission but poor insulation. Double glazing can improve insulation. Polycarbonate provides good light transmission and insulation, especially twin-wall polycarbonate. Acrylic offers a balance of light transmission and insulation, but can be more prone to scratching.

For the greenhouse frame, metal conducts heat efficiently, so insulation is crucial to prevent heat loss. Wood provides better insulation than metal but requires proper sealing to prevent heat loss. 

For the greenhouse foundation, concrete has high thermal mass, storing heat during the day and releasing it slowly at night. Wood offers some insulation but may require additional measures for colder climates.

Gaps and cracks in the greenhouse structure can lead to significant heat loss. Proper sealing is essential.

Energy efficiency in greenhouse temperature control is crucial for several reasons. Efficient systems consume less electricity or fuel, leading to significant savings on energy bills. Energy-efficient systems often rely on renewable resources or consume less energy, reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Promoting environmentally friendly practices is essential for long-term sustainability. Energy-efficient greenhouses are better equipped to handle climate variations and extreme weather events.

Looking for a high quality pre-made greenhouse in Massachusetts? Hometown Structures offers the finest craftsmanship with custom designs in a wide variety of sizes perfect for the home gardener to give your plants the perfect climate to thrive in a protected environment, keep pests away from your plants, grow plants and food that don’t otherwise exist in your area/climate and extend your season with options including 8mm twin wall polycarbonate for optimal insulation, venting and windows. Every custom shed greenhouse comes with 50-Year LP Siding and 30-Year Collapse From Snow Warranty.

Tap here to visit their website to learn more and book a design consultation today.

What To Grow In a Greenhouse [Hometown Structures]

Benefits of growing food in a greenhouse

Greenhouses protect plants from cold weather, allowing you to grow crops earlier in the spring and later into the fall. You can even cultivate plants year-round in some cases. Since you can regulate temperature, humidity, and light levels, greenhouses are ideal for creating optimal growing conditions for specific plants. The enclosed nature of a greenhouse helps to shield plants from pests like insects and rodents, and also minimizes the spread of diseases that can be carried by wind or rain. Because of the ability to control the environment, you can grow a wider range of plants in a greenhouse than you could outdoors in your local climate. This includes exotic fruits, vegetables, and flowers that wouldn't normally survive in your area. Greenhouses safeguard plants from harsh weather conditions like hail, strong winds, and excessive sun exposure. This can result in healthier plants and higher yields.

Choosing the right plants for your greenhouse is absolutely crucial for its success. It's like having the perfect kitchen but picking ingredients that don't go together - you might end up with wasted time, effort, and resources. Different plants have specific requirements for temperature, light, humidity, and spacing. Matching these needs with your greenhouse's capabilities ensures the plants thrive. Imagine putting a cactus in a constantly damp environment - it wouldn't do well! Choosing plants suited to your greenhouse minimizes the extra effort required to maintain ideal conditions. You won't be constantly battling unsuitable temperatures or humidity levels for your plants. Selecting high-yielding plants for your specific greenhouse environment allows you to harvest the most vegetables, fruits, or flowers possible from your space. Plants under stress from unsuitable conditions are more susceptible to pests and diseases. Picking the right plants helps them stay healthy and fight off potential problems. By carefully considering your greenhouse's environment and choosing compatible plants, you set the stage for a thriving and productive greenhouse experience. But before you pick your plants, you need to know what climate you’re working with - and that’s where garden zones come in.

What are garden zones?

Garden zones, also known as plant hardiness zones, are specifically designed for gardeners to identify which plants are most likely to thrive in their local climate. Unlike climate zones, which are large geographic regions with distinct weather patterns, garden zones focus on a single factor: a region's average annual minimum winter temperature.

The most widely used system for garden zones is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, developed by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Agricultural Research Service. This map divides North America into 13 zones, with Zone 1 being the coldest (average minimum temperature of -60 to -50°F) and Zone 13 being the warmest (average minimum temperature of 60 to 70°F). Within each zone, there are further subdivisions designated by the letters a and b. For example, Zone 7a has a slightly warmer average minimum temperature range (0 to 5°F) than Zone 7b (5 to 10°F).

By knowing your garden zone, you can choose plants that are more likely to survive and thrive in your local climate. This can save you time, money, and frustration in the long run. You can find your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone by entering your zip code on the USDA website https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/ or using a gardening app.

The best way to grow food in a greenhouse year round is by working with nature, not against it. Which means choosing heat loving, warm season crops in the summer and cold loving winter crops in the winter. Here’s a few of my favorites to get you started:

Warm-Season Food to grow in a Greenhouse

Tomatoes

There are many varieties of tomatoes that are well-suited for greenhouse cultivation. Determinate tomatoes ripen all at the same time so you can make all your sauces and salsas at once for preserving. They grow on compact bushes, so you probably don't need to stake these plants. Indeterminate varieties grow and produce fruit all season; therefore, you could use these tomatoes more regularly in salads and sandwiches. In between these two types are the semideterminate. As you might guess, they do both—produce a main crop that ripens at once, but also continue to produce up until frost. The really big, juicy tomatoes are probably slicer tomatoes, meaning they are thick and sturdy for slicing.

Some tomato varieties require pollination by bees or other insects. If you are not planning to introduce pollinators to your greenhouse, you will need to choose a self-pollinating variety. Many tomato varieties are now available that are resistant to common diseases such as fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. Choosing disease-resistant varieties can help to reduce the need for pesticides in your greenhouse. Consider how long you want your tomatoes to take to mature. If you are growing in a cold climate, you may want to choose a variety that matures early.

Sun Gold Pole Cherry Tomatoes (Indeterminate)

Rare in grocery stores, 'Sun Gold's' plump, tangerine-colored fruits are a special treat at the peak of flavor in the garden-very sweet and juicy! Provide support for vigorous vines that easily reach 6' long. Pick a bit early and ripen indoors at room temperature. Low-acidity tomato. Disease resistant.

Green Zebra Pole Tomatoes (Indeterminate)

'Green Zebra' has excellent flavor and unique color—golden green with forest green stripes, developing a slight amber blush when ripe. The 2"–3" tomatoes have very smooth skin essentially free of cracks. Provide support for vines that reach 6' or more. More heat and drought tolerant than other varieties.

Brandywine Pole Tomatoes (Indeterminate)

Brandywines have been favored by tomato lovers for more than 100 years. Fruits often weigh around a pound but can weigh close to 2 pounds! 'Yellow Brandywine' turns golden yellow when ripe, with a balance of sweet and tart; 'Red Brandywine' has a rich, well-balanced tomato flavor.

Italian Roma Bush Tomatoes (Determinate)

An absolutely excellent heirloom tomato—firm, meaty, 3" oblong fruits with few seeds, on compact vines that are very productive. As a determinate type, most of the fruits ripen at the same time, which makes this tomato a good choice for canning. In areas with a long growing season, a second planting will double your harvest!

Cream Sausage Bush Tomatoes (Determinate)

True to name, these cylindrical, cream to pale yellow tomatoes are best harvested at 3"—when they start to look like little sausages! With a smooth, buttery, rich flavor, 'Cream Sausage' is ready to eat like an apple right off the vine, or save it for the kitchen to simmer into a yellow pasta sauce, create contrast in salsas, or slice up for a fresh salad. This highly productive cultivar is compact and perfect for containers.

Red Pride Bush Tomatoes (Determinate)

The blue ribbon winner! 'Red Pride' yields a bountiful harvest on vigorous, compact plants. Its reliable production of 10-ounce fruits combined with an excellent disease resistance package, including Alternaria stem canker, gray leaf spot, Fusarium wilt (1, 2), and Verticillium wilt, make it a winner for any garden!

Peppers

There are many pepper varieties that are well-suited for greenhouse cultivation, depending on several factors including your desired fruit size, flavor profile (sweet or hot), and plant growth habit (bush or vining).

Bell peppers are the most common type of pepper grown in greenhouses. They come in a variety of colors (green, yellow, orange, red, purple, and chocolate brown) and sizes, and have a mild, sweet flavor. Peppers are usually indeterminate plants, meaning they continue to produce new fruit throughout the growing season. Hot peppers come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and heat levels.

Shishito Chili Peppers

The 'Shishito' is finding its way into many restaurants as a popular appetizer. The 2"–4" slender peppers have a citrusy, slightly smoky flavor enhanced by grilling or sautéing, and can be the life of the party when an occasional hot one passes the mouth of the unsuspecting. Highly productive plants. 50–200 Scoville heat units (mild).

California Sweet Bell Pepper

An old-time favorite since 1928 for good reason! 'California Wonder's' large, uniform shape makes it ideal for stuffing. Delicious grilled, they are perfect for shish kabobs. Peppers left on the plant will turn a beautiful, bright red, and have more vitamin C than an orange! Good container variety, and dependable performer even in short season climates.

Habanero Chili Peppers

Prized by chile aficionados not only for its intense heat, but its distinct fruitiness, the habanero is used in sensational salsas and will turn a bland barbeque into a fiery feast! Habaneros are said to be 100 times hotter than jalapeños. 100,000-350,000 Scoville heat units (extremely hot).

Early Jalapeno Chili Peppers

Lots of bold flavor in a small, 3" pepper, 'Early Jalapeño' is better adapted to cooler climates than other jalapeños. Incredibly versatile, they're hot enough to add a little kick to your favorite dish, but mild enough for any meal. Enjoy green or allow to ripen to red for a sweeter, bolder flavor. Jalapeños rate 2,500–5,000 Scoville heat units (medium hot).

Most pepper varieties are self-pollinating, but some may benefit from hand pollination. Many pepper varieties are now available that are resistant to common diseases such as bacterial spot and powdery mildew. Choosing disease-resistant varieties can help to reduce the need for pesticides in your greenhouse. Consider how long you want your peppers to take to mature. If you are growing in a cold climate, you may want to choose a variety that matures early.

Eggplant

Eggplant is a great choice for greenhouse cultivation because it thrives in warm, controlled environments, and hates wind. Eggplant comes in many colors from dark purple to white and variegated stripes and shapes including round, elongated and large or small fruit. Earlier varieties are a good choice for colder climates.

Black Beauty Eggplant

A beautiful vegetable with lovely, lavender blossoms pretty enough to grow in the flower garden. 'Black Beauty' has set the standard since 1902 for large, high-quality fruit. Outstanding when harvested at their peak, the skin is tender, so no need to peel it. A widely used international food; there are countless recipes from Italy to China to Russia and beyond.

Long Purple Eggplant

This long, slender variety, not usually found in grocery stores, is flavorsome in countless recipes from Italy to China to Russia and beyond. Also called 'Italian Long Purple', this prolific heirloom will bring beautiful color to the garden and savory goodness to the table.

Jewel Amethyst Eggplant

‘Jewel Amethyst' is perfect for containers, with a tidy habit that makes harvesting a breeze. Glossy, oval, purple fruits are best harvested when about 3''–4 ½" long. Harvest regularly from this prolific plant and keep eggplant on the table throughout the season. Its firm texture and mild flavor make this mini eggplant ideal for roasting, frying, or glazing with a flavorful sauce.

Rattlesnake beans

Rattlesnake beans, like most beans, thrive in warm weather. But most beans stop producing when temps go above 90°F - rattlesnake beans don’t! They actually love the hotter temps, and a greenhouse provides a controlled environment where you can maintain the ideal temperatures (around 80-90°F) for them to flourish, especially if you live in a climate with cooler summers.

These beans are known for their extended harvest period. Greenhouses can extend the growing season for rattlesnake beans, allowing you to enjoy fresh beans for a longer time. Rattlesnake bean plants are vigorous growers and produce a high yield of beans. In a greenhouse, you can create optimal growing conditions that can maximize your harvest. Rattlesnake beans are vining plants, so they grow vertically and take up minimal floor space. This is a great advantage in a greenhouse, where space can be limited. You can easily train them to grow up a trellis or other support structure.

As mentioned earlier, rattlesnake beans are vining plants and will need some support to grow vertically. You can install a trellis, netting, or stakes in your greenhouse to support the vines. Rattlesnake beans are self-pollinating, so you won't need to worry about attracting pollinators to your greenhouse. Rattlesnake beans need consistent moisture, but avoid overwatering. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. You can harvest rattlesnake beans when the pods are young and tender, or you can let them mature and dry the beans for shelling.

Malabar Spinach

Malabar spinach is a tropical vine that flourishes in hot and humid conditions. Greenhouses provide excellent control over temperature and humidity, allowing you to mimic its ideal growing environment year-round, especially in cooler climates. This vigorous vine can grow up to 10 feet in a single season. A greenhouse offers ample vertical space for it to sprawl and climb, unlike outdoor settings where it might be restricted. Malabar spinach produces leaves continuously throughout the growing season. Greenhouses can extend this period significantly, giving you a longer window to enjoy fresh harvests. Since it's sensitive to frost, greenhouses offer protection from chilly outdoor temperatures that can damage or kill the plant.

Provide a trellis, netting, or poles for the vines to climb. This encourages vertical growth and maximizes space usage. Malabar spinach prefers full sun to partial shade. If your greenhouse has limited natural light, you might need to supplement with artificial lights. Maintain consistent moisture in the soil but avoid waterlogging. The humid greenhouse environment might require adjustments in watering frequency compared to outdoors.

Cool-Season Crops

Lettuce

Lettuce prefers cooler temperatures. Most lettuce varieties mature quickly, within 30-70 days, meaning you can enjoy multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Lettuce plants are relatively compact, making them ideal for maximizing space utilization in a greenhouse. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers. There are many varieties of lettuce available, from crisphead to romaine to leafy greens, allowing you to cultivate a diverse selection in your greenhouse.

Buttercrunch Butterhead Lettuce

‘Buttercrunch' is a vigorous grower with a creamy yellow interior, buttery flavor and melt-in-your-mouth texture, pleasing palates since 1963. Small heads are perfect for a single-serve salad. The compact size makes it a good container variety, and it's also attractive in the flower-garden border.

Red Sails Leaf Lettuce

A favorite to use as baby greens, 'Red Sails' is ready to harvest after just 2 or 3 weeks and grows to a full head in just over 6 weeks. Very heat tolerant, the soft buttery leaves will grow well into warm weather without getting bitter. Contains more vitamins A and C than grocery-store lettuce! Attractive container variety, too.

Ice Queen Crisphead Lettuce

Ice Queen' dates back to 1883, and gets its name because it is cold tolerant, but also tolerates heat well and is slow to bolt. Also considered a summer crisp or Batavia, this bright, emerald green lettuce with frilly leaves has crisp texture and excellent fresh flavor. Also delicious as a baby green in as little as 21 days. You can harvest the outer, frilly leaves while waiting for the head to form.

Spinach

Spinach thrives in cooler temperatures, and most spinach varieties mature quickly, within 40-50 days from seeding. This rapid growth cycle allows you to have multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Spinach plants are relatively compact, making them good for maximizing space in your greenhouse. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers.

Bloomsdale Spinach

'Bloomsdale' is an early 1800's, dependable, open-pollinated variety. For growing tender, baby greens in as little as 28 days, you can sow seeds just 1" apart. Very nutritious—lots of vitamins A and C and iron. Grows great in a container too!

Kale

Kale is quite tolerant of a wider range of temperatures than some other cool-season crops. It can even handle frosts, adding to its resilience in a greenhouse setting. Most kale varieties mature within 50-70 days from seeding, allowing you to have multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Kale plants are not overly bushy, making them suitable for maximizing space utilization in your greenhouse. The three most common types of culinary kale include: curly (e.g., 'Redbor', 'Dwarf Blue Curled'), Russian (flat leaf with serrated edges, e.g., 'Red Russian'), and cavolo Nero (also called "dinosaur kale", the Italian lacinato type with dark, savoyed leaves, (e.g., 'Nero Toscana')

Redbor Kale

This kale has it all. Beautiful, ruffled leaves are tasty and have amazing color. Extremely cold tolerant, 'Redbor's' purple color and curliness intensifies, and flavor sweetens as temperatures drop in the fall; plants can last even through hard freezes. Sow with pansies, violas, and snapdragons for long-lasting fall color. Looks great in containers.

Red Russian Kale

Kale gets sweeter after the first fall frost. 'Red Russian', brought to North America in 1885, is sweet and tender all the time, making it excellent for mesclun, garnishes, and sautéing. The red veins, wavy margins, and foliage that resembles oak leaves make 'Red Russian' as attractive as it is delicious. Harvest baby greens in just 21 days.

Lacinato Kale

This tender kale is also known as black Tuscan kale, black cabbage, and black palm. Vigorous dark green to black leaves of this 18th century heirloom are favored by gourmets. Harvest the first shoots as tender young salad greens in just 21 days when 2"–4" tall, or achieve full-sized plants in 2 months.

Cabbage

The enclosed nature of a greenhouse helps shield cabbage plants from common outdoor pests like cabbage worms and aphids. It can also minimize the spread of diseases that can be carried by wind or rain. Consistent and cool temperatures in a greenhouse contribute to optimal head formation in cabbage. Fluctuating outdoor temperatures can sometimes hinder proper head development. Greenhouses safeguard cabbage from harsh weather conditions like hail, strong winds, and excessive sun exposure. This protection can result in healthier plants and potentially higher yields.

Red Acre Cabbage

Solid heads form early on small, compact plants making 'Red Acre' an ideal choice for small gardens. Resistant to splitting and cabbage yellows disease. Heads store exceptionally well in the refrigerator or root cellar.

One Kilo Slow Bolt Napa Cabbage

Also called napa cabbage, 'One Kilo Slow Bolt' has a delicate flavor, a soft texture in between that of lettuce and regular cabbage, and tight heads have a creamy yellow interior. Grows with ease in fall, and can be sown in spring if care is taken to protect young plants from temperatures of 50°F or below, which may cause plants to bolt. Grows best at 60°-65°F.

Carrots

Carrots can be grown in a greenhouse, but it requires more attention to detail compared to other vegetables. If you are a beginner greenhouse gardener, you might want to start with easier crops like lettuce or spinach before attempting carrots. However, with the right care and suitable varieties, you can enjoy fresh, homegrown carrots even outside the traditional growing season. Greenhouses protect carrots from cold weather, allowing you to plant them earlier in spring and harvest them later in fall, or even year-round in some climates. The enclosed nature of a greenhouse helps shield carrots from pests like carrot flies and root maggots, and minimizes the spread of diseases.

Carrots require loose, well-aerated soil to grow properly. Heavier, compacted soils can lead to deformed or stunted carrots. Amending your greenhouse soil with sand or other materials to improve drainage is crucial. Carrots need adequate sunlight for good root development. If your greenhouse has limited natural light, supplementing with artificial lights might be necessary. Carrots need proper spacing between them to allow for root growth. Overcrowding can result in stunted, misshapen carrots.

Choose carrot varieties suited for greenhouse cultivation. These varieties may be shorter or have slower bolting tendencies (going to seed) compared to outdoor varieties. Maintain consistent moisture in the soil, but avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot. The humidity levels in your greenhouse might require adjustments in watering frequency compared to outdoors. Carrots are cool-season vegetables, excessively high temperatures can negatively impact root growth.

Beets

Beets prefer cool weather. Most beet varieties mature within 50-60 days from seeding, meaning you can enjoy multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Beet greens are relatively compact, making them suitable for maximizing space utilization in your greenhouse. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers.You can harvest both the beet greens (tops) and the beetroot (bulb) for delicious and nutritious meals.

Touchstone Gold Beets

Not only does the color of this beet make it stand apart, but so does the flavor. Golden beets are known for being extra sweet and less "earthy" than their red counterparts. Best at 1"–3" round.

Scallions

Scallions prefer cooler temperatures. Most scallions mature quickly, within 40-60 days from planting. This rapid growth cycle allows you to have multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season, providing a steady supply of fresh scallions. Scallions are compact plants and don't require a lot of space. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers, making them ideal for maximizing space utilization in your greenhouse. You can harvest scallions at any stage of growth, using both the green stalks and white bulbs for adding flavor to various dishes. Scallions are generally quite resistant to pests and diseases, making them a low-maintenance crop to grow in a greenhouse.

White Lisbon Bunching Scallion

‘White Lisbon' is a green or spring onion, and sometimes referred to as a scallion or bunching onion. A popular variety since the 1700s because it produces dependably in widely varying conditions. It thrives in a wide range of soils, is heat and cold tolerant, and can be sown successively throughout the season. For the finest quality, pencil-thin onions, sow seed densely and do not thin seedlings.

Looking for a high quality pre-made greenhouse in Massachusetts? Hometown Structures offers the finest craftsmanship with custom designs in a wide variety of sizes perfect for the home gardener to give your plants the perfect climate to thrive in a protected environment, keep pests away from your plants, grow plants and food that don’t otherwise exist in your area/climate and extend your season with options including 8mm twin wall polycarbonate for optimal insulation, venting and windows. Every custom shed greenhouse comes with 50-Year LP Siding and 30-Year Collapse From Snow Warranty.

Tap here to visit their website to learn more and book a design consultation today.

Thirsty Earth Olla Watering System Review

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Did you know you can water your entire garden bed without lifting a finger, without setting up an expensive complicated drip line system? (by the way, this method also wastes 61% less water than drip lines) This rainwater fed olla watering system from Thirsty Earth makes it possible - but if you’re a skeptic like me, let me explain exactly how this works and give you my full review of the Thirsty Earth system from my own experience installing and using it in my vegetable garden.

WHAT IS AN OLLA WATERING SYSTEM?

Olla (pronounced oya) means “pot” in Spanish, but the concept of using ollas as an irrigation system goes back thousands of years and has been used in countless cultures around the world. An olla watering system is basically an unglazed eight to ten inch terracotta pot that is buried beneath the soil with only a small amount sticking up above the surface and filled with water. The water then leeches out of tiny holes or “pores” in the unglazed clay and is pulled through the soil to the roots of your thirsty plants using a process called soil moisture tension. This functions much the same way as osmosis, in that the water is trying to equalize to a certain level of moisture within the soil. This means your soil will never become overwatered either - if the soil is moist, the water stays in the pot until it is needed. The downsides of DIYing a system like this are that it can be hard to identify true terracotta - and other types of clays have different properties that make them not as well suited for this job. Plus, you have to fill each one manually every 2-5 days depending on how hot it is and most importantly they take up a lot of room in the garden beds. But thankfully, with the Thirsty Earth system all of those cons are eliminated - but we’ll get to that in a minute.

WHY SHOULD YOU USE A Thirsty Earth OLLA WATERING System?

Hauling around a watering can and kneeling all over isn't exactly a walk in the park for everyone, especially folks like me with arthritis. This past spring, I was right in the middle of a flare-up when I planted my garden. I knew I needed a way to water my plants without turning myself into a pretzel! There are a ton of fancy watering systems out there, but I was on the hunt for something easy on the wallet and made with regular stuff.

Last summer was a scorcher, even though some reports were saying it would be the coolest we’d ever seen again! And all that heat wasn't helping the drought situation. By the end of August 2022, almost half (nearly 38%) of the entire U.S. was parched. That number is even higher in the lower 48 states, where over 45% of the land was bone dry. With climate change, things are only expected to get drier. No wonder our little town had water restrictions most of the summer! Restrictions like that mean dragging a hose around isn't an option anymore, so any watering system you use needs to be a real water-saver.

Imagine this: you water your plants, but most of the water just sits on top and bakes away in the sun. olla watering systems stop that waste! The water seeps out of the pot slowly, right where your plants need it most - at their roots. This fancy trick can slash your water use by up to 61%! Pretty sweet, right? Less water wasted means a lighter water bill and a happier planet.

Olla watering systems aren't just about saving water, they're also all about growing healthy plants! Since the water seeps out underground, plant roots stretch out searching for that moisture. This makes them stronger and helps your plants stand tall. Olla watering systems also keep the leaves of your plants dry, making it tough for fungus and disease to spread. And the slow release of water means your plants get the perfect amount to drink, never too much.

Basically, olla watering systems create happy, healthy plants that can take on anything!

Thirsty Earth Olla Watering System Review

Since it can be hard to find genuine terracotta pots affordably in your area, and they take up a lot of space in the garden, the Thirsty Earth olla watering system can be a good compromise that allows you to actually hook up your ollas to an automatic rainwater harvesting system that will continuously refill your ollas for you on it’s own from free rainwater collected from your roof. Plus they are about the size of a water bottle, so they don’t waste precious planting space. I added the Thirsty Earth system to two of my raised beds, and since the system is super easy to customize to whatever garden bed configuration you have, you don’t have to worry about not having the right parts or enough pieces to get it done. The website does a great job of showing you exactly how to lay out the cotta cups and it’s made an already pretty hands-off system completely self-sustaining; water is collected from my roof into a 50 gallon barrel, flows automatically into reservoirs and down the irrigation tube into individual terracotta cups. Setup is easy thanks to the push to connect fittings that come with every kit. You just lay out your cups, cut the included tubing to size and connect everything with the fittings. Once everything is set up, you can leave it all summer and the reservoir will refill automatically from your rain barrel or you can manually refill it about once a week.

WHAT PLANTS GROW WELL WITH the Thirsty Earth olla watering system?

Some people have asked me if olla watering systems work for all plants. It's true, different plants have different thirst levels and root systems. But in my garden (and from what my fellow plant lovers say), pretty much any plant can do well with an olla - from thirsty veggies like squash, corn, and beans, all the way down to little lettuces. The best way to find out what works for you is to give it a try in your own garden! Each cup has about a two foot radius in which the water will spread out and reach plant roots, so it’s a good idea to put your more water-hungry plants closer to the cup itself and plants that like drier roots further away. But, the roots will naturally be drawn towards the water source anyway, so you shouldn’t have to worry about it much! 

Thirsty Earth FAQs

I already planted my garden. Can I still add the Thirsty Earth Watering system?

Absolutely! You can totally add olla watering to your already-planted garden. Just be flexible with the placement recommendations. Instead of shoving the olla right next to your plants, give them some breathing room - think 3 to 6 inches away. The exact spot depends on how big your plant is and how deep its roots go. If you're worried about disturbing your plants too much, use an auger to dig the holes. Just take it slow and be careful not to bump any roots too much.

Do I need to surface water new seedlings with Thirsty Earth?

Planting seeds with olla watering is easy! Just sprinkle them within 6 inches (or about a foot in diameter) around the olla cup. This will make sure your seeds get enough moisture to sprout. Remember to plant the seeds at their usual depth though, because the top inch or so of soil dries out quickly unless it's covered in mulch. Otherwise, if you want to plant a little further away from the cups, you can just hand water the area lightly until the seeds germinate.

Where does the Thirsty Earth reservoir bucket go?

Stick your bucket somewhere in your garden bed, or even next to it. The key is to have the top of the bucket around the same height as your soil. This lets the water flow smoothly to your olla cups like magic!

How big are the Thirsty Earth cups?

The olla cups themselves are pretty small, about the size of a water bottle. They hold about 14.4 ounces of water, but that's not the whole story. They're connected to the reservoir, so they really can keep your plants happy for a long time. Each cup releases about a cup (250ml) of water every day, and depending on the size of your water bucket reservoir (2.5 or 5 gallons), you might need 6 to 12 cups to last a week. Don't worry about water pressure, these things work best with a gentle flow, kind of like a slow drizzle.

Does Thirsty Earth have a warranty?

Thirsty Earth wants you to love your watering system! They offer a 100% money-back guarantee for 30 days. If you're not amazed by how easy it is to grow healthy plants with way less water (like, 61% less!), just send it back and they'll give you a full refund (minus shipping costs). 

Can I leave Thirsty Earth pots in my garden all winter?

If you live in a place that gets super cold in the winter (think zones 8 and below where the temperature dips below freezing for a long time), it's best to take out your olla watering systems before things get frosty. They've tested them to survive a week at 16 degrees Fahrenheit, but it's safer to just bring them inside for the winter.

If you're feeling adventurous and want to leave them in the ground (no judgment!), just make sure to stop filling them with water 2-3 weeks before the first freeze. This gives the olla cups time to empty themselves out so they don't crack in the cold.

Starting Seeds in a Greenhouse [Hometown Structures]

One of the things I was most excited about doing in my Hometown Structures Greenhouse is seed starting. With summer upon us, you might be thinking “seed starting is over for the year!” But if you’re trying to grow year round like I am, July and August are actually when we need to start planning our seed starting for our fall and winter gardens. So the cycle is beginning again and while a greenhouse makes seed starting easier in so many ways - with it comes some challenges that are unique to starting seeds in a greenhouse that we’re going to dive into today.

What’s the benefit of starting seeds in a greenhouse?

A greenhouse like mine from Hometown Structures allows you to control the temperature and environment, which means you can start seeds earlier in the spring than you would be able to outdoors. This gives your plants a head start on the growing season and can lead to a longer harvest.Greenhouses provide a more stable environment for seedlings to grow in, with consistent temperatures, humidity, and light. This can help to prevent them from becoming leggy or stressed, and can lead to stronger, healthier plants overall. You're also less limited to planting seeds that thrive in your local climate. A greenhouse allows you to grow plants that wouldn't normally survive outdoors in your area. Seedlings are vulnerable to pests, diseases, and harsh weather conditions. A greenhouse can help to protect them from these threats. And with a greenhouse, you have complete control over the environment your seeds are germinating in. This allows you to fine-tune the conditions to match the specific needs of each plant variety.

What are the key steps and considerations for successful seed germination?

Before Planting:

Choose high-quality seeds from a reputable source. Consider factors like your climate, desired harvest time, and gardening experience when selecting seeds. Different plants have different germination requirements. Research the specific needs of your chosen seeds, including ideal planting time, depth, light requirements, and any pre-treatment needs (like scarification or soaking). Seed packets often have this information. Use a well-draining, sterile seed starting mix. Avoid using garden soil directly, as it can be too dense and harbor pathogens.

Planting:

Plant seeds at the correct depth according to their size. A general rule is to plant seeds 2-3 times their diameter deep. Water the growing medium thoroughly before planting. After planting, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. A mister can be helpful for maintaining even moisture.Maintain the optimal temperature range for your seeds. Use a heat mat if necessary to provide warmth for seeds that prefer germination in warmer soil, and keep in mind that some seeds need light to germinate, while others prefer darkness. Follow the instructions for your specific seeds. You may need to cover the planting tray with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to retain moisture and create darkness if needed.

After Planting:

Once seedlings emerge, provide them with adequate light for strong growth. You may need to use grow lights if natural light is insufficient. Maintain consistent moisture levels. As seedlings grow, they will require more water. If you sowed multiple seeds per pot, thin them once seedlings have established true leaves to prevent overcrowding. Once seedlings have a few sets of true leaves, you can begin fertilizing them with a weak solution of liquid fertilizer.

Setting Up Your Greenhouse for Seed Starting

A clean environment is crucial for successful seed starting in your greenhouse. Seedlings are particularly vulnerable to fungal diseases and pests in their early stages. Fungus spores and bacteria that cause damping-off (a disease that attacks seedlings) can thrive in dirty environments. Sterilization helps eliminate these pathogens before they can harm your seedlings. Insects and other pests can also be attracted to leftover debris and organic matter. A clean environment reduces their harborage points. Cleanliness promotes healthy root development and prevents competition from unwanted microorganisms for nutrients and water.

Disinfecting Tools, Containers, and Surfaces:

Start by removing any leftover soil, plant material, or debris from your greenhouse, tools, and containers. A shop vac can be helpful for floors. Wash all surfaces, tools (pots, trays, trowels, etc.), and containers with warm, soapy water. This removes dirt, grime, and organic material that harbors pathogens.

There are a few options for disinfecting your greenhouse and equipment:

• Bleach: Mix one part household bleach (5.25% sodium hypochlorite) to nine parts water. Soak containers and tools for 30 minutes. Rinse thoroughly afterwards. Caution: Bleach is corrosive and can damage some materials. Wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. Never mix bleach with other cleaning products.

• Hydrogen Peroxide (3%): This is a gentler alternative to bleach. Apply directly to clean surfaces and tools with a spray bottle. Let it sit for at least 20 minutes, then wipe clean with a damp cloth. Hydrogen peroxide is safe for most materials.

• Alcohol (70%): Similar to hydrogen peroxide, apply directly to clean surfaces and tools. Let it sit for a few minutes, then wipe clean. Alcohol evaporates quickly, making it a convenient option.

While new containers are generally sterile, it's still wise to wash them with soapy water before use. Allow everything to dry completely before using them for seed starting. Moisture can encourage fungal growth. Wash down greenhouse walls, floors, and benches with your chosen disinfectant solution. It's a good practice to clean and disinfect your greenhouse and equipment between each planting season.

Now that your tools are clean and sterilized, you can set your greenhouse up for success by organizing everything before you get started to optimize seed germination and seedling growth. Dedicate a well-lit, easily accessible area for seed starting. Shelving or a designated seed starting table is ideal. This area should be close to a water source for easy watering. Once seedlings emerge, they'll need space for continued growth. Staggered shelves or benches will maximize space utilization. Consider using a mobile bench for flexibility. Allocate space for storing seeds, pots, trays, tools, and other supplies. Hanging shelves, cabinets, or a designated storage area will keep things organized and within reach.

Optimizing Seed starting Conditions

Group plants together based on their light requirements. Seedlings needing high light should be placed closest to the light source (windows or grow lights). Shade-loving plants can be placed on lower shelves. Arrange plants according to their temperature needs. Heat mats can be used on lower shelves for warmth-loving seeds. A thermometer can help you monitor temperature variations within the greenhouse. Ensure proper air circulation to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overcrowding plants and position them to allow for airflow between them. You may need to use small fans to create gentle air movement.

Utilize vertical space with shelves or hanging racks to maximize your limited footprint, and clearly label each pot or tray with the plant variety, planting date, and any special instructions. This will help you stay organized and track progress. Arrange everything to allow for easy access for watering, monitoring, and transplanting seedlings. Avoid placing heavy objects on high shelves. Use trays with wheels or place them on rolling benches for easy movement and rearranging. Use drip trays under pots to catch excess water and prevent moisture build-up on lower shelves.

Seed starting containers

Seedling trays

Trays come with multiple cells and are ideal for starting small seeds or seeds that don't require deep planting. Standard propagation tray have shallow cells (1-2 inches deep) and are perfect for starting most flower and vegetable seeds. Deep cell trays have a depth of 3-4 inches and are suitable for seeds with longer taproots. Choose a tray size that fits your workspace and the number of seeds you plan to start.

Pots

Individual pots are ideal for larger seeds or plants that need more root space early on. 3-4 inch pots are perfect for transplanting seedlings from trays or for starting larger seeds like tomatoes or peppers.

Small seeds don't need deep pots. Shallow trays or pots with minimal depth (1-2 inches) are sufficient. Larger seeds benefit from deeper pots (3-4 inches) to accommodate developing roots. Plastic is the most affordable and durable option. Biodegradable pots are eco-friendly but may dry out faster and are not reusable. Ensure your pots or trays have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging, which can rot seeds and seedlings.

Ideal Soil Mix for Seed Starting

Seedlings need a well-draining, sterile, and lightweight potting mix to germinate and grow successfully. Look for a mix that contains peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite. These ingredients provide good drainage, aeration, and moisture retention. Many seed starting mixes are available commercially and are formulated specifically for seedlings. These are a convenient option. Avoid using garden soil directly for seed starting. It can be too dense, harbor pathogens, and contain weed seeds.

Selecting Seeds and Planning Timing for Greenhouse Seed Starting

Choose seeds suited to your local climate. Consider factors like your growing season length and average temperatures. Pay attention to "days to maturity" listed on seed packets. This helps you plan your planting schedule to ensure your harvest falls within the frost-free window. Purchase seeds from reputable sources to ensure good quality and germination rates.

The key to successful seed starting is timing your plantings to coincide with the last frost date in your area. This is the average date of the last light frost in spring. You can find this information through websites like the Old Farmer's Almanac (https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates) which allow you to search by zip code. Once you know your last frost date, you can create a seed-starting calendar. Look for the "days to maturity" listed on each seed packet. Count back the number of "days to maturity" from your last frost date. This will give you the recommended date to sow your seeds indoors. Add some buffer days to account for seed germination time (usually 5-10 days). This will give you your ideal seed starting date. Tender plants like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants benefit the most from starting indoors for an earlier harvest. Consider staggering your plantings throughout the season to extend your harvest window. For some fast-growing vegetables like lettuce or spinach, you can practice succession planting. Sow seeds every few weeks directly outdoors after the last frost date for a continuous harvest.

Selecting suitable varieties for seed starting is crucial and requires considering your climate, growing season, available space, and seed quality. Choose varieties suited to your average temperatures. Consider both warm and cool season crops. Some plants won't tolerate frost, while others may even benefit from a light frost. Seed packets will typically indicate temperature preferences. Pay attention to a plant's light requirements (full sun, part shade, etc.). Not all plants will thrive in the amount of sunlight your greenhouse receives. Select varieties with maturity dates that fall within your frost-free window. Short season varieties are ideal for areas with shorter growing seasons. Consider how long each variety takes to mature from seed to harvest. Stagger plantings throughout the season for a continuous harvest.

Choose varieties that will fit comfortably within your greenhouse space when fully grown. Consider dwarf or compact varieties for limited space. Tomatoes, for example, come in bush and vining varieties, with bush tomatoes requiring less vertical space. Some plants sprawl outwards, while others grow vertically. Factor in the mature size and growth habit when choosing varieties to optimize space usage.

High-quality seeds from reputable sources will have better germination rates, meaning more seeds will sprout successfully. This saves you time and resources. Consider varieties with resistance to common diseases in your area. This can help reduce problems and improve your harvest. Heirloom varieties may have lower yields but produce seeds you can save for future plantings. Hybrids are often bred for high yields and disease resistance but don't produce true seeds. Choose vegetables, herbs, or flowers you and your family love to eat or use and once you have the basics down, try new and interesting varieties to expand your gardening experience.

Optimizing seed germination in your greenhouse

As mentioned before, using fresh, high-quality seeds from reputable sources increases your chances of successful germination. Some seeds require specific treatments like scarification (nicking the seed coat) or stratification (exposure to cold temperatures) to break dormancy and encourage germination. Research the needs of your specific seeds. Follow the recommended planting depth on seed packets. Planting too deep can hinder germination. Keep the growing medium evenly moist but not soggy. A mister can be helpful for maintaining consistent moisture levels. For seeds that prefer warm soil temperatures for germination, use a heat mat placed under your seed trays. Some seeds need light to germinate, while others prefer darkness. Follow the instructions on the seed packet. You may need to cover trays with plastic wrap or a humidity dome to retain moisture and create darkness if needed. Maintain some air circulation to prevent fungal diseases. Avoid overcrowding seedlings or creating stagnant air pockets. And clearly label each pot or tray with the plant variety, planting date, and any special instructions. This will help you track progress and avoid confusion.

Optimal Temperature and Humidity for Seed Germination

Different plant varieties have specific temperature ranges for optimal germination. Seed packets typically indicate the ideal temperature range. A general guideline is that Warm Season Crops (like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants) prefer temps between 70-80°F (21-27°C) and Cool Season Crops (like lettuce, spinach, kale prefer temps between 60-70°F (16-21°C)

Most seeds benefit from high humidity during germination. You can achieve this by covering seed trays with a clear plastic dome that helps trap moisture around the seeds and lightly misting the surface of the growing medium with a spray bottle to keep it moist. Use a thermometer and hygrometer to monitor temperature and humidity levels in your greenhouse. Make adjustments as needed to maintain optimal conditions for your seeds.

Seed germination is highly sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Maintaining a consistent temperature within the optimal range for your specific seeds is crucial for successful seed starting in your greenhouse. Enzymes play a vital role in seed germination. Consistent temperatures ensure optimal enzyme activity, which is essential for seed development and sprouting.Consistent temperatures promote even and synchronized germination across all your seeds within a tray. Fluctuations can lead to some seeds germinating earlier or slower than others, creating uneven growth. Seeds germinating in stable temperatures develop stronger root systems and shoots, leading to healthier and more vigorous seedlings overall.

Maintaining Consistent Temperature in a Greenhouse

Need to warm things up? Heat mats provide gentle bottom heat to the growing medium, raising the soil temperature to the desired level for germination. This is particularly beneficial for seeds that prefer warm soil temperatures. Place seed trays directly on top of a heat mat set to the recommended temperature for your seeds.

While maintaining warmth is important, proper ventilation is equally crucial. Ventilation helps prevent excessive heat build-up and removes excess moisture, which can lead to fungal diseases. Open vents or use fans strategically in your greenhouse to promote air circulation. However, avoid creating drafts that can chill seedlings. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature in your greenhouse at different locations and times of the day. This will help you identify any hot or cold spots and adjust positioning or ventilation accordingly.

Do I need to use lights in my greenhouse?

Whether you need artificial lights for seed starting in your greenhouse depends on several factors. The primary factor is the amount of natural light your greenhouse receives. South-facing greenhouses with ample sunlight may not require artificial lights for all seeds. Different plants have varying light requirements. Some seeds germinate in darkness, while seedlings need sufficient light for healthy growth after germination. Research the specific needs of your chosen seeds. The length of daylight hours during your planting season also plays a role. Seedlings started in the shorter days of winter or early spring may benefit from supplemental lighting.

Greenhouses with limited natural light due to north-facing orientation, shading from trees, or insufficient window space will benefit from artificial lights. Seeds that require long periods of bright light for healthy growth, like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants, may need supplemental lighting even in a well-lit greenhouse, especially during the shorter daylight hours. And if you're starting seeds very early in the season before daylight hours are long enough, or if you want to extend your growing season into fall, artificial lights will be necessary to provide sufficient light for seedlings. LED Grow Lights are the most popular and energy-efficient option for seed starting. They come in various sizes and spectrums suitable for seedling growth.

Watering and Humidity Management in a Greenhouse

Watering seeds in a greenhouse requires a delicate balance to avoid soil compaction, surface disturbance, and maintain optimal humidity for germination. Bottom watering is an excellent method for seed trays. Place the trays in a shallow dish filled with water. The water will wick up into the growing medium evenly, moistening the soil from below without disturbing the seeds or compacting the surface. You can also use a fine spray mister to gently apply water directly to the soil surface. Avoid using a forceful stream that can dislodge seeds or splash potting mix.

Controlling Humidity

Humidity Domes trap moisture around the seeds, creating a mini greenhouse environment with high humidity. They are particularly helpful during the germination stage for most seeds. While domes maintain humidity, it's crucial to provide some ventilation to prevent fungal diseases. Lift the domes slightly or create small ventilation holes to allow for some air circulation. Reduce reliance on domes as seedlings emerge. Group trays with similar moisture needs together. This allows you to target specific areas for humidity control. Instead of soaking the soil completely, alternate between light watering and misting the surface to maintain consistent moisture without oversaturation.

Use your finger to check the moisture level of the soil. The top inch should feel moist but not soggy. As seedlings mature, their watering needs will change. You may need to transition from misting to watering the soil directly as root systems develop. Once seedlings emerge, you may need to thin them to prevent overcrowding. This will improve air circulation and reduce competition for moisture and light.

Transplanting greenhouse Seedlings

Recognizing when your seedlings are ready for transplanting in your greenhouse is crucial for their successful establishment and growth. Most seedlings are ready for transplanting once they have developed several sets of true leaves (usually 2-4 sets) beyond the initial cotyledons (seed leaves). The stem should be thick and sturdy enough to support the seedling when transplanted. Avoid transplanting seedlings with thin, weak stems.The seedling should have reached a height appropriate for the variety. Refer to seed packet information or plant labels for specific guidelines.

Check the roots of the seedlings in their pots. If they appear root-bound, with roots circling the bottom or sides of the pot, it's definitely time to transplant. Look for healthy, white roots that are well-developed and branching out. Avoid transplanting seedlings with stunted or discolored roots. Seedlings should appear healthy and vigorous, with good color and no signs of disease or pests. When the second set of true leaves start touching their neighbors in the pot, it can also indicate they're ready for more space.

Fungus Gnats While Seed Starting in a Greenhouse

Adult fungus gnats are weak fliers and dislike moving air. Using small fans to create gentle air circulation can disrupt their breeding activity and make your greenhouse less hospitable to them. Fungus gnats thrive in moist environments. Bottom watering helps target moisture delivery to the root zone, minimizing excess moisture on the soil surface where fungus gnats lay their eggs.

Bacillus Thuringiensis Israelensis (BTI) is a biological larvicide that specifically targets fungus gnat larvae in the soil. It's a safe and effective option for organic gardening. Follow the product instructions for mixing and application rates. BTI is typically available as a powder or liquid concentrate that you can mix with water and drench the potting mix or use when bottom watering. Repeat applications every 2-3 weeks, especially during periods of high humidity or warm temperatures when fungus gnat populations tend to be higher.

Sticky traps won't eliminate fungus gnats entirely, but they can help monitor adult populations and track the effectiveness of your control methods. Place them near fungus gnat breeding areas, like around potted plants.

The key to controlling fungus gnats is using an integrated approach that combines these methods. By creating a less favorable environment for fungus gnats to breed (air circulation, bottom watering) and eliminating existing larvae (BTI), you can significantly reduce their population. Sticky traps will help you monitor their activity and adjust your control methods as needed. Remember, consistency is key! By implementing these practices regularly, you can effectively prevent fungus gnats from becoming a nuisance in your greenhouse and ensure a healthy environment for your plants.

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