Why Should You Plant Native Plants In Your Garden?

Native plants are unsung heroes in the symphony of nature, harmonizing with the land's rhythm. While exotic plants may flaunt vibrant allure, local blooms bring something irreplaceable to the garden table. But you don’t need to take my word for it - this blog post is all about the importance of planting native plants in your garden.

What Is A Native Plant?

Native plants are plants that are naturalized to the area in which they are growing. They originated from the place they are growing, so are well adapted to the climate and generally work in synchronicity with the natural ecosystem of that area. Many non-native plants have been imported to other parts of the world with dire consequences to the native plant populations, as they possess characteristics that make it easy for them to crowd out the native plants or otherwise make the environment unsuitable for the growth of the native plants that were there first.

Why Are Native Plants Better Than Non-Native Plants?

Native plants have evolved to withstand local climate challenges. They are like wise elders we can turn to for advice, intimately interconnected in deep understanding with the land's idiosyncrasies. Native plants are a practical addition to your garden design - uniquely formed to adapt to your region's exact pest pressures and weather conditions, they are more resilient than exotic options and can withstand the stresses of your ecosystem more easily because they have co-evolved with native flora and fauna.

Native Plants Conserve Water

Because the root systems and water uptake of native plants has evolved in tandem with the climate in which they grow, less irrigation is needed for them to thrive because they are already used to the amount of water that the soil naturally receives from rainwater. This reduced water consumption can contribute to water conservation and the garden's overall sustainability.

Native Plants Are Low Maintenance

Since native plants are adapted for the soil they grow in, they are pretty laid back plants to grow especially once established. This means you can spend less time and money fertilizing and fighting off pests with constant interventions. If you’ve ever said you just don’t have a green thumb in the past, I can almost guarantee that you’ll have better luck if you try growing native plants instead - with less effort on your part.

Native Plants Are An Important Cultural Touchstone

Native plants are storytellers, weaving tales of a region's history, traditions, and cultural richness. Nurturing plants with cultural significance can help you form deeper relationships with the plants in your area and connect with nature.

How Do You Know If A Plant Is Native To Your Area?

There are a few ways to figure out if a plant is native. One option is to check with local botanical gardens, nurseries, or agricultural extension offices—they often have information about native plants in your area. Field guides specific to your region can also be handy. Online databases or apps designed for identifying local flora can be a quick and convenient resource. Plus, if you have any green-thumbed friends or neighbors, they might have some insights.

What Is The Role Of Native Plants In Supporting Biodiversity?

Native plants play a crucial role in supporting biodiversity for several reasons. First off, they provide habitat and food sources for local wildlife, including insects, birds, and mammals. Many native insects, for instance, have evolved to depend on specific native plants for survival. This forms the basis of the food chain, as birds and other animals rely on insects and other invertebrates for sustenance.

Native plants also contribute to ecosystem stability. Their root systems help prevent soil erosion, and they are adapted to local climate conditions, making them more resilient in the face of environmental changes. Additionally, native plants often have complex relationships with other organisms, such as fungi and bacteria in the soil, creating a healthier and more balanced ecosystem.

When non-native plants are introduced, they can sometimes outcompete native species, leading to a decline in biodiversity. Invasive species may not provide the same level of support for local wildlife, disrupting ecological relationships that have developed over time.

In short, native plants are like the backbone of an ecosystem, providing the essential elements that support a diverse and thriving community of organisms.

What is Native Plants Role in Habitat Creation?

Native plants offer a source of food for local wildlife. They attract insects, birds, and other animals with nectar, fruits, seeds, and foliage. This creates a natural food web where different species rely on each other for sustenance.

The structure of native plants provides shelter and nesting sites for various creatures. Tall grasses, shrubs, and trees create hiding spots and safe havens for birds, mammals, and insects. This is especially important for breeding and raising offspring.

Many native plants have evolved alongside local pollinators. Bees, butterflies, and other insects rely on the nectar and pollen of these plants. By supporting pollinators, native plants indirectly contribute to the reproduction of other plants, including food crops.

How Do Native Plants Attract Native Wildlife?

Native plants have evolved alongside local wildlife, forming intricate relationships that benefit both the plants and the animals. Many native plants produce nectar, a sweet liquid that attracts pollinators like bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Pollinators feed on the nectar and, in the process, transfer pollen from one flower to another, facilitating the plants' reproduction.

Native plants often produce fruits and seeds that are attractive to various animals. Birds, mammals, and even insects may feed on these fruits, helping in seed dispersal. Some seeds may even be adapted to survive passage through the digestive systems of certain animals.

Native plants are often the hosts for specific insect species. For example, monarch butterflies lay their eggs exclusively on milkweed plants. By providing a suitable environment for these insects, native plants support the entire food web, as insects are a crucial food source for many other animals.

The coloration and patterns of native plants often provide camouflage for animals. Insects may mimic the appearance of leaves or flowers, while birds and mammals use the vegetation for cover, protecting them from predators.

Native plants may bloom or produce fruits at specific times of the year, aligning with the seasonal needs of local wildlife. This creates a consistent and reliable food source for animals throughout the year.

What Are Some Challenges Faced by Native Plants?

Native plants face several challenges, many of which are a result of human activities and environmental changes. Urbanization, agriculture, and infrastructure development often lead to the loss and fragmentation of natural habitats. This reduces the available space for native plants to thrive and disrupts ecosystems. The introduction of non-native, invasive plant species can outcompete native plants for resources such as sunlight, water, and nutrients. Invasive species may lack natural predators or diseases, allowing them to spread rapidly and displace native flora.

Changes in climate patterns, including temperature increases and altered precipitation patterns, can affect the distribution and growth of native plants. Some species may struggle to adapt to these changes, impacting their survival and reproduction. Air and water pollution, including pollutants from industrial activities and agriculture, can negatively affect native plants. Pollution can alter soil composition, disrupt nutrient cycles, and directly harm plant health.

Native plants can be susceptible to diseases, and the introduction of new pathogens or the spread of existing ones can pose a significant threat. This is particularly relevant in a globalized world where pathogens can be transported across regions. In some ecosystems, fire plays a natural role in maintaining plant diversity. Changes in fire frequency or intensity, often influenced by human activities, can disrupt the balance and negatively impact native plant communities.

Addressing these challenges requires a combination of conservation efforts, sustainable land management practices, and public awareness. Protecting and restoring native plant populations is crucial not only for the plants themselves but for the entire ecosystems they support.

Popular Native Plants In The USA

The United States is home to a diverse range of ecosystems, and each region has its own set of popular native plants. Here are some examples from various regions:

Eastern Redbud (Cercis canadensis): Found in the eastern and central United States, this small deciduous tree is known for its stunning pink or purple flowers in early spring.

Bluebonnet (Lupinus spp.): The Bluebonnet is the state flower of Texas and is part of the lupine genus. These vibrant blue flowers are a common sight in the spring in Texas.

California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica): The California Poppy is the state flower of California and is known for its golden-orange blooms. It thrives in the dry, open landscapes of California.

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta): Native to the eastern and central United States, Black-Eyed Susans are yellow daisy-like flowers that bloom throughout the summer and are a favorite in gardens.

Milkweed (Asclepias spp.): Milkweed is crucial for the survival of monarch butterflies, as it serves as the sole host plant for their larvae. Various species of milkweed are found throughout the country.

Loblolly Pine (Pinus taeda): A common pine tree in the southeastern United States, the Loblolly Pine is an important timber species and provides habitat for numerous wildlife species.

Sagebrush (Artemisia tridentata): Found in arid regions of the western United States, sagebrush is a hardy shrub that plays a vital role in providing habitat for a variety of wildlife.

Goldenrod (Solidago spp.): Goldenrod is a late-summer bloomer found in meadows and along roadsides across the country. It's known for its bright yellow flower clusters.

Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum): Native to the southeastern United States, the Bald Cypress is a deciduous conifer known for its distinctive "knees" that protrude from the water in swampy areas.

Wild Bergamot (Monarda fistulosa): Also known as Bee Balm, this native plant with pink to lavender flowers is found in prairies and open woods. It attracts bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.

These are just a few examples, and the diversity of native plants in the U.S. is vast. Local nurseries, botanical gardens, and native plant societies are excellent resources for learning more about and obtaining native plants for your specific region.

How To Make A DIY Cattle Panel Greenhouse [plans]

As a gardener living in New England, winter is kind of brutal. We only get about 5 really good months for growing food outdoors and the rest of the time the landscape is just brown and dead and dried out with no signs of life whatsoever, or everything is covered in a foot of snow. So I’m planning to utilize these DIY cattle panel greenhouse plans to grow food all winter long when nothing else will grow outside. But first, I wanted to touch on why this project is happening and my motivation behind this project.

Gardening For Mental Health

I have dealt with pretty bad anxiety most of my life. Being out in the garden has become an essential piece of protecting my mental health and reducing that anxiety. It seems backwards but honestly accepting the total lack of control I have over what happens in the garden has been super healing for me and having something to nurture and care for that sort of depends on me gives me a sense of purpose. Beyond that the sensory experience of literally having my bare hands in the soil is something that grounds me and is honestly just life giving. When I think about totally losing that outlet for the entire long winter I get a literal pit in my stomach to the point where I only half jokingly talk about wanting to just move somewhere warmer.

Gardening For Physical Wellness

With my arthritis and chronic pain I need to have options for moving my body that are gentle and consistent. Planting, checking on the plants, weeding and harvesting all offer me opportunities to move my body in a way that doesn’t necessarily cause more harm than good and just keeps me active and gives me an excuse to get outside for some fresh air - which if you know anything about winter in New England, it’s tough. It’s tough to convince yourself that you WANT to go out when it’s two degrees outside and everything just looks bleak. But with a hoop house I’ll have an excuse to really take a walk and check on things and just spend some time outside of the house during the day.

Another big motivation for me is that I love to experiment. The garden is like one big playground for adults. And I firmly believe adults need to play too. There are always puzzles to be solved, and it’s so rewarding when you try something new and it actually works.

Can You Really Grow Food In The Winter?

The concept of growing food all winter in our cold northern climate isn’t unheard of, but it’s definitely uncommon, I know I’m guilty of assuming it would be impossible whether because of the low temperatures or the shorter daylight hours and I’m just really psyched to be trying something new and sharing it with you so hopefully you can be inspired to give it a try and keep gardening all year round regardless of the weather conditions.

I’ve made it my job to empower you to feel confident in trying new things in the garden. Gardening is one of those life skills that builds confidence in other areas of life but you need to be a little brave to get started because there’s always this fear hanging over your head that you’ll put all this work in and the crops will still fail due to either you not knowing something you should or circumstances beyond your control like pests or disease. But gardening is also one of those things where if you can give yourself permission to make those mistakes you will learn and get better and grow in that confidence.

Change Your Climate + Move Your Garden Grow Zone 1.5 Zones Lower

Hoop houses are used by growers in all types of climates for many different reasons - but the main goal is climate control, whether that is to make the growing area colder using the artificial shade created or warmer by taking advantage of the insulating properties of the covered area to effectively move your grow zone south.

If you’ve never seen a hoop house before, you probably have and just didn’t realize it! The basic idea is that you form some sort of rounded roof structure using metal rods, cattle panel or pvc that bends down and is anchored to the ground and cover that with heavy duty greenhouse plastic that lets light in but keeps wind out and provides some insulation.

There’s a ton of different ways to build these and kits you can buy but for the purposes of this project, I’m specifically referring to a cold, totally unheated hoop house that can be used to grow year round in northern climates where I would otherwise be limited by the sub zero temps we experience here in Massachusetts.

So what am I NOT talking about? This is not a “cool” hoop house that might utilize some form of heat throughout the winter and require a double layer of greenhouse plastic, blowers and all that. I’m also not referring to this as a high tunnel because it’s kind of not. The terms are often used interchangeably, but in this case I’m going to be building a relatively small, low structure. It’s going to be about 7 feet across and 12.5 feet long with just enough room to stand up in the center. When I think high tunnel I think high ceilings, built in irrigation, venting fans and the whole nine yards which is great but just not the goal for this particular project.

We can’t talk about unheated hoop houses without acknowledging the king of organic winter gardening, Eliot Coleman. This guy is one hundred percent the inspiration behind this project and my main resource in planning this project. If you’re considering doing something similar with a hoop house the very first thing you should do is grab his book “The Winter Harvest Handbook” because it’s going to go into even further detail on exactly how this all works on a larger market garden scale from someone with literally 40 plus years of experience growing in an extremely cold climate at scale. A lot of the concepts and strategies I am going to be talking about are straight from Eliot. One of the things I love about Eliot is he outright says in his book that he WANTS people to innovate on his strategies, take what he’s done and run with it and make it their own so I’m excited to follow in his footsteps here and put my own spin on it.

It’s so easy to get bogged down in the research with an unfamiliar project like this and end up not actually starting because you get overwhelmed, and my method for avoiding this is to kind of pick one expert and latch onto their resources as my kind of main resource going forward and then if I have specific questions as I’m going through the material, google is my best friend. It helps that his climate isn’t too far off from mine, and it’s actually “worse” in that it’s colder so realistically I should have an even easier time growing some of these crops overwintered.

I want you to feel empowered to build your own hoop house, which meant I needed to choose a design that was easy and cheap and used the most basic materials possible. This cold hoop house will be totally off grid and scalable so you can make one any size that you want. I’ll be using sections of cattle panel to form the tunnel roof of the hoop house and holding it in place with tension only using rebar and supportive cross beams at the base. This means I won’t need to do any digging, post setting etc and the structure will be easy to remove when I’m finished with it.

diy cattle panel greenhouse plans

If you’ve always dreamed of having a greenhouse but you can’t afford it, a hoop house might be a better fit for you. Honestly, this hoop house is a temporary experiment. I have big plans for this section of the backyard and eventually will be adding a much larger permanent structure off of the main house that will actually be climate controlled. But that project is basically going to be on the scale of a full house addition in the form of a workspace/sunroom, and it’s going to require actual grading and pouring a foundation and some type of custom design that will actually sit up against the existing house.

In the meantime, I knew I wanted to keep growing food throughout the winter and I had to decide if it was worth investing thousands of dollars into a smaller greenhouse and foundation that wasn’t actually what I wanted long term.

I had all these crazy ideas of how I could heat a greenhouse structure utilizing waste exhaust heat from the pellet stove that I use to heat my house to make a thermal sink, and I still think that would be such a fun project to experiment with and utilize passive heat for a greenhouse, but I really wanted to show a super accessible way that you could create a barebones setup that pretty much anyone could build regardless of skill level or budget first, and prove that concept works before scaling it up to something that is commonly used and known to work but not super accessible to everyone.

There’s kind of this divide with garden content creators that I personally have trouble deciding which side I’m on, between those gardeners who are kind of like, make do and mend so they have this ingenuity and kind of macgyver attitude and they’ll use whatever they have on hand to make a project work for them within a really limited budget and they’re less concerned with how the final end result actually looks and I so admire this - it’s more sustainable and makes it possible for people to garden who otherwise might not be able to afford it, but my issue with it is that these DIYs are usually way more labor intensive and for myself personally dealing with chronic pain from my arthritis I’m often put in the position of having to decide if these types of energy expenditures are something that I can physically handle.

So there’s the financial privilege aspect of it where these DIYers are providing more accessible options for people who have those budget limitations but then on the flip side there’s the ableist privilege aspect of it where those DIY options aren’t always physically available to those of us with disabilities. And this came into play a ton with my raised bed build where I built raised beds to waist height so I wouldn’t need to bend down, because I get comments all of the time that container gardens suck and why don’t I just garden in the ground from people who obviously aren’t thinking from the perspective of others having different levels of physical ability from them.

Of course this played a huge part in my thought process while I was trying to decide whether I should build a greenhouse or not. And the reality is that it’s a much more labor AND money intensive project to build a greenhouse, you need to grade land and pour a foundation and mount glass panels. So it became clear to me that that is going to be a project for the professionals, and cutting corners with some sort of smaller greenhouse structure wasn’t going to give me the result I want and would have still been a pretty decent investment to create something that could actually support life in our cold climate.

So that brings me to the hoop house. I’ve said before that there are a ton of different ways to build a hoop house using kits or from scratch. But even these kits require you to bend your own metal pipes and set posts and all these bigger construction tasks that I knew wouldn’t be possible for me physically with my arthritis. And actually here’s where I need to give another shout-out because I stumbled across Briana from Blossom and Branch farm’s cattle panel tunnel that she converts into a covered hoop house for the winter. Her build looked super simple which is exactly what I needed and then things just kind of spiraled from there when it became clear that this method of using cattle panel would be not only physically accessible but financially super affordable too.

The method I finally settled on using the rebar to anchor the cattle panels is actually covered in detail on Homesteading Family’s page. Their tunnels are MUCH longer than what I’ll be doing with just three panels but the concept is the same. So just another shout out there because I want to make sure I’m giving credit where it’s due - I did not invent these ideas, just putting my own spin on it.

So at the end of the day would I love to have a huge beautiful climate controlled glass greenhouse? Of course! I’m a very visual person and I’m not super thrilled about adding a plastic covered tunnel to the garden. But sometimes big goals require that we take small steps first and this hoop house is the beginning of something big.

Where To Put Your diy cattle panel Greenhouse: Don’t Skip This Step If You Want To Grow Food All Winter

If you want to grow food all winter proper planning can make or break your chances of success so let’s dive into exactly what you need to do to get ready for tons of winter harvests.

With a diy cattle panel greenhouse especially for winter growing, you’ll notice that almost all of the time growers orient these with the ends on an east-west axis and there’s a pretty good reason for this - it follows the sun to provide maximum passive heating because the long side is going to be getting the most southern exposure which is the line that the sun travels along throughout the day.

Once you have your orientation the next most important thing to consider is any shade that will be present. This is less of a concern in the winter when the trees are bare with no leaves, but it’s important to keep in mind that the sun is going to be traveling across the sky much lower than it does in the summer months, which means they could block that southern side of your hoop house from actually receiving direct sunlight and create shade that will cool your hoop house. So I do have a pretty heavy treeline, but I know from living here for two decades now that the shade isn’t really going to reach out over the spot I’ve selected.

The last consideration is going to be the grade of the land. I do have a pretty steep slope where my greenhouse is located, as the house is set into a hill. At this point grading the land isn’t an option. I am a little concerned about how the drainage is going to be at this spot because it kind of sits on a lower tier, but this section also has a slope of its own and again, from living here I know that it’s not a particularly muddy area so we’re going to try and see what happens. This will be good to observe for future more permanent greenhouse plans as well.

Now that we’ve got an idea of where the best location is, you need to figure out how big your hoop house is going to be because this is probably going to be limited by the area you have to work with.

In my case the overall width is going to be limited again because of the materials I’ve chosen to use. If you want something wider than 7 feet and you’re going to use cattle panel like I am, you’re going to end up sacrificing headspace for standing up and are probably better off going with a more traditional hoop house structure using bent metal pipes. And unless you’re willing to cut the cattle panel down which comes with some risks since the sharp metal edges could snag on your greenhouse plastic and cause tears, you’re also stuck to increments of about 4 feet or whatever the width of your chosen panels is. So that’s how I landed on the 7x12 foot structure for my own build, because that is the length of three cattle panels when they’re butted up to each other.

How to Build a DIY Cattle Panel greenhouse

You can build your own diy cattle panel greenhouse with these plans easily in an afternoon with just the help of one other person, and you don’t need any special skills or carpentry experience either. The hardest part is honestly just getting the cattle panel - they are huge, so unless you have a truck you’ll probably need to rent something or have them delivered.

SUPPLIES

• 16’ Cattle Panel (3)

• ½” Steel Rebar (8)

• 12’x6” Wood Boards (2)

• Heavy Duty Zip Ties (UV Stabilized)

• Greenhouse Plastic (6mil UV Stabilized)

• Self-Adhesive Zipper

• Tarp Clips

• Lightweight Row Cover (I used Agribon-19)

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prep soil

Assuming this is a new garden bed, you’ll need to prep the soil. After marking out my corners, I laid a tarp over the grass for two weeks to kill it, dug out the roots with a shovel and amended with compost.

Set rebar

Using a mallet, drive the rebar posts into the four corners and every 3 feet along the long edges

Set boards

The wood boards just rest up against the rebar on the inside edge.

Set panels

With assistance, lift one short end of the cattle panel to your hips. Slowly walk towards each other to bend the panel into an upside down U shape. Once the panel is bent, walk over to the wood baseboards you set into place and press the panel until it fits in between the wood. Slowly release the panels, allowing the tension to hold the panels in place against the wood. Repeat with all panels.

Using the heavy duty zip ties, connect the panels to each other. I used one zip tie every other open square. You can also zip tie the panels to the rebar stakes to anchor it to the ground.

Add greenhouse plastic

Unroll your plastic and lay across the top of your cattle panel. Secure the edges with the tarp clips and cut away excess. To form the end walls and door, cut panels to fit the opening leaving excess to overlap at the edges and secure to the edge of the cattle panel. On the door end, attach the adhesive zipper in the center and cut your doorway opening using the tool provided in the zipper kit. Bury the long edge of the greenhouse plastic along the length of the greenhouse on the outside by digging a furrow four inches deep, laying the extra plastic in the furrow and replacing the soil to secure it.

If you’re a visual learner I have a whole video walkthrough showing how to build a diy cattle panel greenhouse yourself with these plans on my YouTube channel. Watch now:

What To Grow in A Winter Garden

What food can you harvest from your garden when the soil is only 32 degrees fahrenheit? The list is longer than you’d think. A lot of your favorite fall crops can survive down to these temps, and actually the issue isn’t so much the temperature that kills plants but a lack of daylight hours and the stress caused by wind chill. This is why I said harvest and not grow - at a certain point in the year when your daylight hours go below 10 hours a day, plant growth is going to stop. Now this doesn’t mean the plant will die - but it isn’t getting enough energy from that sunlight to produce new growth. So we aren’t technically GROWING in the winter, but HARVESTING plants that we grew in the fall. Which means timing this planting is super important. So let's dive into exactly what I’ve decided to try to grow in the hoop house this winter, including one I swore I would never grow:

Gai Choy Mustard

This mustard matures in 40-60 days and grows anywhere from six to ten inches wide and ten to twelve inches tall. This is a head forming traditional Chinese mustard with a mild flavor when it’s young.

Bloomsdale Spinach

This is a dependable, open pollinated variety that matures in 28-45 days and grows about six to eight inches tall with dark green, thick and curly leaves. It’s a prolific grower with tender leaves and rich flavor.

Common Sorrel

This green has been popular in France and England for centuries but for some reason it isn’t as popular in the states. It matures in 60 days with bright green crinkled leaves that have a lemony spinach flavor.

Easter Egg Radish

This blend has red, white, pink purple and bi colored radishes that mature in just 30 days. Easter egg is a mild and crisp radish that forms small one inch globe shaped roots, so if you don’t like the spiciness of other radishes you may want to try this one.

French breakfast radish

These radishes are super mild - almost sweet and mature in 28 days. The root is scarlet with a white tip about 1 inch around and 2 or 3 inches long.

Spanish black radish

This is an extra large medium spicy radish that matures in 60-70 days with a black exterior and white interior. The globes are about 3-4 inches in diameter when mature. Since this is a winter radish it needs shortening day length and cool temps to mature, so this one gets planted later than the other radish varieties I’m growing.

Bok Choy Choko

I can’t live without this for my stir fries and this variety is so good and tender when harvested when it’s only about four inches tall. It matures in around 50 days and has smooth, leafy blades in a cluster with crisp, pale green stems. Choko was bred to be small and heat tolerant.

Big Seeded Mache

Mache can survive temperatures down to ten degrees fahrenheit and matures in 60 days. It’ll grow to be about six inches tall and eight inches in diameter with dark green, spoon shaped soft leaves in a loose rosette.

Tokyo Long White Bunching Scallion

These Japanese scallions are long, slender, mild and mature in 65 days. They are sweet enough to use in pretty much anything from salads, soups, and stir-fry dishes and grow about 16-18 inches tall.

Olesh Tres Fine Endive

This is a mildly bitter flavored green with a really interesting frilly texture that matures in 42-70 days. It grows about six inches wide and tall in rosettes with broad crinkled green leaves.

Ruby Red Swiss Chard

Chard can withstand moderate freezes and matures in 50-60 days, growing about 24 inches tall and eighteen inches wide with dark green crinkled leaves, red veins and stalks. I use this the same way I use spinach

Danvers Carrot

This variety was actually created an hour from where I live way back in the day when growers were looking for a carrot with improved yield, color and uniformity. It matures in about 65 days. It’s a sweet classic carrot that’s resistant to cracks and splits and roots grow about six inches long.

Astro Arugula

I said I would never grow this, but there’s very few foods I actively dislike and I have a personal rule that I re-try foods I hate about once a year in different forms or varieties and since arugula is so cold hardy, I had to bite the bullet with this and try a new type to see if I can learn to love it. Astro matures in 32-55 days and supposedly has more of a mild flavor than other varieties when the plants are young so I’m hopeful.

Mizuna Mustard

This tender Japanese mustard is milder than other varieties and ready to harvest in 30-50 days. It can grow up to a foot tall and wide but it’s usually harvested when it’s smaller.

Rosette Tatsoi

This beautiful leafy green is more flavorful than traditional bok choy and matures in 45 days. It is super cold tolerant down to 15 degrees fahrenheit and can be harvested even in the snow. It grows pretty low and wide with spoon shaped dark green thick leaves in a rosette.

Tendergreen Mustard

This is also called mustard spinach, but it’s not actually mustard OR spinach. It’s super easy to grow, hardy and productive and matures fast in 30 days to be about two feet tall and up to two feet wide with smooth dark green glossy leaves.

Composting for Beginners: Lomi Bloom Smartwaste Appliance Review

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What is Composting?

Composting is a method of breaking down food waste and other organic matter into usable, nutrient dense soil by creating an environment which encourages decomposition through a microbial process. Composting creates a valuable fertilizer that can support and feed plant life. Most compost is made with a combination of kitchen scraps, paper, grass clippings, leaves, small twigs and brush, which when exposed to water, oxygen, heat, worms and other organisms create the conditions necessary for decomposition.

Benefits of Composting

So why should you compost? It all comes back to the kitchen.

• 24% of solid waste in landfills today is food waste, making it the most common material found in landfills

• 22% of solid waste that is incinerated is food waste

• 50% of the volume of waste that North Americans send to landfills each year is compostable materials.

• 80 billion pounds or 30-40% of the food supply is discarded every year in the United States.

Why does it matter if we waste food? Landfills are anaerobic and do not have the right conditions to properly break down food, and food waste in landfills releases methane, a potent greenhouse gas up to 36 times more effective than carbon dioxide at trapping heat in the atmosphere. In the harsh sunlight of the upper atmosphere, methane can react with other gasses to form water vapor, which then breaks down into other chemicals that destroy ozone.

Different Composting Methods

You can compost in many different ways, but the top three are:

Outdoor Composting Bin or Pile System

This is my preferred method because there is little to no set up cost, but it does require enough space for at least one 4x4 foot pile and must be manually turned in order to increase oxygen and encourage decomposition. You are also limited in the types of food waste you can put into your compost. This means no meat, dairy, eggs, citrus peels, fat or grease, and if you don’t have the space or energy this won’t be an option.

Tumbler Composting Barrel

This is a popular system with a moderate upfront cost which can be used even in more urban settings as long as you have some amount of land to work with. Since the compost is contained, the smell and sight won’t offend any neighbors and it is less likely to attract animals. You are also able to easily aerate the compost by turning a handle on the side of the barrel. Like the pile option, you are also limited in the types of food waste you can put into your compost. This means no meat, dairy, eggs, citrus peels, fat or grease.

Vermicomposting with Worms

Vermicompost is much higher in nutrients than the compost from a regular backyard composter, and takes less time to break down. Worms are also relatively cheap to purchase making this a lower cost option if you’re homesteading on a budget. You can also use this method both indoors and outdoors. Like the two options above, you are limited in the types of food waste you can put into your compost. This means no meat, dairy, eggs, citrus peels, fat or grease.

Electric Smart Waste Appliances like Lomi Bloom

These appliances transform your food-waste into nutrient-rich plant-food at the push of a button. While they aren’t inexpensive, Lomi Bloom is able to break down large quantities of food waste quickly and easily with no physical strain of turning the compost, and it’s small enough to fit on your counter. You can also break down many of the food items that cannot be composted using traditional composting systems. This makes Lomi Bloom the best choice for composting for beginners and renters who might not have an outdoor space of their own.

Lomi Bloom SmartWaste Appliance

Lomi Bloom is the best way to break down your food waste into nutrient rich Lomi Earth, ready to be incorporated into your garden soil or potted plants. Lomi Earth is a little different every time you run a cycle because it is composed of just your food waste (plus microbes and fungi from your LomiPod if you include that in the cycle). This diversity benefits your plants as they are exposed to a wide variety of beneficial organisms and minerals extracted from your food waste.

Pela, the company that created Lomi Bloom, calls the end product of Lomi Bloom nutrient-rich Lomi Earth instead of compost' or soil because both other terms have very specific qualities, including the amount of time it spent forming.

So how can a smart waste appliance reduce your carbon footprint? Pela did the research. With the help of third party audits, they found that despite the electricity consumed, Lomi Bloom can produce a net-lower carbon footprint than that same organic waste going to landfill.

Pela's primary goal is to improve the world's health by eliminating waste. They can't do that if the creation of Lomi Bloom negatively impacts the environment. So, they worked hard to ensure Lomi Bloom's production is carbon negative, and is proudly certified as a Climate Neutral company and B Corporation.

Did you know that 43% of food waste in the U.S. happens at the household level? The average American family loses $2,000 in food waste every year. Lomi wants to help you make some of that back… and feel a lot less guilty for what you throw out. Lomi Bloom not only reduces your waste footprint, it also rewards you for getting rid of your waste the right way and enables you to actually track your impact and get rewarded for it. We all create food waste, but now - Lomi Bloom turns your trash into cash with Lomi Rewards. Earn points every time you run a cycle + redeem for free products from Lomi + other great brands. Save money on expensive store-bought fertilizer, reduce your carbon footprint, and get rewarded for upgrading the way you deal with waste.

How Does Lomi Work?

Lomi basically chops up the food into smaller bits by grinding it, then uses heat to remove any moisture - making it a breeze for tiny organisms to start breaking down the waste. Grinding also gives the compost some air, boosting oxygen and setting the stage for microbes that love oxygen.

Lomi Bloom Review - Is the Lomi Worth it?

Pela generously sent me my very own Lomi Bloom to try in exchange for my honest review, and I’m extremely impressed with what Lomi can do. Not only do I have a ton of vegetable and fruit cutoffs from the garden to compost, I have eliminated the struggle of stinky dairy and meat scraps sitting in the trash for longer periods of time causing me to have to replace the bag sooner. Since I cold compost outdoors already, I know firsthand just how much composting reduces my household waste and was frustrated that I still had food I needed to throw in the landfill. Lomi Bloom is easy to set up, and all of the packaging can be composted in Lomi Bloom when you’re done. I just added the included carbon filtering material to the two filter cartridges inside of Lomi, plugged it in and it was ready to run its first cycle.

Lomi Bloom is about the size of an air fryer, but since you’ll most likely use it every single day you probably won’t want to store it in a cabinet - so depending on how much counter space you have this may be an appliance that you need to move things around to make room for. Lomi Bloom also needs about 6-12 inches of space on all sides since it does warm up a small amount when running. I store mine in the least used corner of my counters and just pull it out to give it space on all sides while it runs overnight. The design of Lomi Bloom and the sage green color fits right in with most kitchens.

Review of Lomi composter

There are three modes on Lomi Bloom, all controlled by the universal power button making this super user-friendly. Here’s what Pela has to say about the three modes:

ECO EXPRESS:

This is the best mode if you’re looking for fast results and low energy consumption.

What can go in

Eco-Express mode is for food scraps and plant waste. Do not put bioplastics or compostable commercial goods and packaging in this mode.

What to do with the result

Toss it into your home compost or green bin. Or add more fresh food scraps & run a Grow mode to create nutrient-rich Lomi Earth for your houseplants, garden and lawn.

LOMI APPROVED:

This mode is your solution for Lomi Approved non-food compostable waste. With smart sensors that control grinding, heat and moisture, this mode breaks down Lomi Approved bioplastics and compostable products much faster than a traditional compost.

What can go in

Mix plenty of plant & food waste with Lomi Approved bioplastics and compostable products - they recommend a maximum of 10% non-food waste in each cycle.

What to do with the result

Toss it into your green bin.

GROW MODE:

Grow mode runs longest and at a lower temperature to create the highest quality Lomi Earth -- a natural fertilizer that’s exactly what your plants crave!

What can go in

Grow mode is for fresh fruit & vegetable scraps and plant waste. Do not put bioplastics or compostable commercial goods & packaging in Grow mode.

What to do with the result

Toss it into your home compost, green bin or garden at a 1:10 ratio with soil. For best results in your garden, add more fresh food scraps & run a Grow mode to create nutrient-rich Lomi Earth.

How Often To Run Lomi

I run Lomi Bloom about 2-3 times a week, always on Grow Mode unless I have bioplastics, packaging or processed/cooked foods. Lomi Bloom is quieter than most dishwashers and washing machines, so I find that running it overnight (which is when I usually start my dishwasher anyway) fits right into my routine. When the cycle is complete, Lomi Bloom beeps and then enters standby mode if you do not open within 30 minutes. I’ve been amazed by how transformed my food waste really is - a stinky pail of the worst moldy leftovers is turned into a dare I say pleasant smelling final product that is ready for the garden.

Is Lomi Bloom loud?

Lomi makes noise comparable to other small countertop appliances which is less than 60 dB. It’s around the same or less than a coffee maker or modern dishwasher.

Can I Run Lomi More Than Once Before Emptying?

You can run up to 3 cycles without emptying your bucket! In fact, adding Lomi Earth from the last cycle will improve the quality of the next cycle’s end product. Simply add more fresh food waste on top and start the next cycle! Just be sure to empty the bucket after 3 cycles because too much will strain the grinder.

How Much Energy Does Lomi Use?

Lomi uses between 0.6 to 1.0 kWh per cycle, depending on the mode and cycle time. Cycle times range from 5 hours to 20 hours. In comparison to other appliances, each Lomi's cycle uses roughly the same amount of power required to operate an oven for 15 minutes.

What to do About Lomi Bucket Residue?

Avoid adding too many high sugar foods to Lomi as that can result in sticky residue. Always add a diverse mixture of food waste in each cycle.

How To Clean Lomi Bloom?

To clean stuck residue, wash the Lomi bucket with hot soapy water or run a Cleaning cycle. Do not submerge Lomi in water. Only the bucket is dishwasher safe and can be submerged.

What are LomiPods and why do I need them?

LomiPods are microbial compost accelerators, activated by 50ml of added water. They are carefully tailored to enhance soil quality for your plants. Using a LomiPod increases the number of microbes in Lomi Earth.

My Lomi is squeaking, what can I do?

Avoid adding too many high sugar foods to Lomi as that can result in sticky build up under the grinder and causes a squeaky sound as it turns. If this occurs, simply soak the inside of the bucket with hot soapy water to loosen the residue, then wipe it away.

Does Lomi Bloom Have a Warranty?

Here’s what you need to know about the Lomi warranty: Lomi comes with a standard 1-year warranty. The warranty is non-transferable and proof of purchase is required to claim.

Before Lomi Bloom, I had resigned myself to the awful smell of my regular compost bin seeping into my kitchen. Lomi Bloom’s odor-proof design and its ability to break down a wider array of organic waste than most methods has been life changing, Bottom line: Nobody likes trash. If you’re ready to take out the trash less often, reduce kitchen odors and your carbon footprint Lomi Bloom offers a hassle-free 14 day trial so you can see just how great Lomi is for yourself!

Track your impact and get rewarded with Lomi Bloom - Click Here to Visit Lomi.com.

Step-By-Step Tips For Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Using Asparagus [Guide]

Renowned for its tender spears, asparagus brings a unique taste to dishes and adds a touch of elegance to any meal. Its mild yet distinctive flavor pairs well with a variety of ingredients, making it a favorite among chefs and home cooks. Whether sautéed, grilled, roasted, or used in creamy soups and savory tarts, asparagus always delivers a delightful culinary experience.

But the advantages of growing asparagus extend beyond its exquisite flavor. One of the most appealing aspects of cultivating asparagus is its long lifespan. Unlike annual vegetables that require replanting every year, asparagus plants can thrive for up to 20 years or more with proper care. This longevity translates to an abundant supply of fresh asparagus spears, providing you with a steady harvest for many seasons to come.

Furthermore, asparagus boasts a high yield potential, making it a rewarding crop to grow at home. Once established, a well-maintained asparagus bed can produce a generous harvest year after year. With patience and dedication, you can enjoy an ample supply of succulent spears, giving you the freedom to indulge in your favorite asparagus-based recipes throughout the growing season.

Additionally, asparagus is a nutritious addition to your diet. Packed with vitamins A, C, and K, as well as folate and dietary fiber, it offers a range of health benefits. Asparagus is also low in calories and sodium.

What asparagus variety should you grow?

When it comes to choosing asparagus varieties for your garden, you have several options to consider. Each variety has its own unique characteristics, including spear color, thickness, and flavor profile.

'Mary Washington': This is one of the most popular asparagus varieties among home gardeners. It produces medium to large-sized green spears with a traditional asparagus flavor. 'Mary Washington' is known for its vigorous growth and high yield potential. It is well-adapted to various climates and is moderately resistant to diseases, making it a reliable choice for many gardeners.

'Jersey Giant': If you're looking for thick, tender spears, 'Jersey Giant' is an excellent option. This variety is known for its robust growth and the ability to produce large-sized, green spears with a slightly sweeter flavor compared to other varieties. 'Jersey Giant' performs well in a wide range of climates and exhibits good disease resistance, making it a popular choice for both home gardeners and commercial growers.

'Purple Passion': For those seeking a unique twist to their asparagus harvest, 'Purple Passion' is a standout variety. This striking cultivar produces vibrant purple spears that turn green when cooked. Not only does it add visual interest to your garden and plate, but it also offers a slightly sweeter and more delicate flavor compared to traditional green asparagus varieties. 'Purple Passion' thrives in both cool and warm climates and demonstrates good disease resistance.

Choosing Where to Grow Asparagus

Asparagus plants require full sun to thrive and produce a bountiful harvest. Choose a site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Avoid areas with excessive shade from trees, buildings, or other structures that may block sunlight and hinder the plant's growth.

Asparagus prefers well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging and root rot. It is crucial to select a location with soil that drains well, as waterlogged soil can lead to the decline of asparagus plants. Avoid low-lying areas or places prone to water accumulation. If you have heavy clay soil, consider amending it with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve drainage.

Asparagus is a long-lived perennial plant that can remain productive for 15 to 20 years or even longer. Therefore, it's important to choose a permanent location for your asparagus bed. Asparagus plants develop deep and extensive root systems, so it's best to avoid transplanting them once they are established. Plan ahead and choose a spot where your asparagus bed can remain undisturbed for many years.

To prepare the soil, start by removing any weeds or grass from the area. Dig the soil to a depth of about 12 to 18 inches and remove rocks, roots, and debris. Incorporate organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the soil to improve its fertility, drainage, and water-holding capacity. This will provide a nutrient-rich environment for your asparagus plants to thrive.

Additionally, consider adding a balanced organic fertilizer to provide essential nutrients for the asparagus plants. Follow the recommended application rates based on the product instructions and the results of a soil test, if available.

How to Plant Asparagus

When it comes to planting asparagus, there are two main methods you can choose from: planting from crowns or growing from seeds. Each method has its own advantages and considerations.

Planting from Crowns

Planting asparagus crowns is the most common and recommended method, as it allows you to establish your asparagus bed more quickly and ensures a higher success rate.

Selecting Crowns: Purchase high-quality asparagus crowns from a reputable nursery or garden center. Look for healthy, firm crowns with intact roots. It's best to choose varieties that are known to perform well in your region.

To plant asparagus crowns, dig trenches or furrows in the prepared bed, with a depth of about 6 to 8 inches. Space the trenches about 3 feet apart to allow enough room for the asparagus plants to spread and grow. Place the asparagus crowns at the bottom of the trenches, spacing them about 12 to 18 inches apart.

Gently spread the roots of each crown in the trench and cover them with 2 to 3 inches of soil. Gradually fill in the trenches as the asparagus plants grow, ensuring that the crowns are fully covered with soil by the end of the planting process.

After planting, water the asparagus bed thoroughly to help settle the soil and promote root establishment. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, around the plants to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and maintain a more consistent soil temperature.

Growing Asparagus from Seed

Growing asparagus from seeds requires more patience and time, as it takes longer for the plants to establish and reach maturity. However, it can be a cost-effective method, especially if you have access to asparagus seeds or want to experiment with different varieties.

Start asparagus seeds indoors about 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Plant the seeds in seed trays or pots filled with seed starting mix, sowing them at a depth of about ¼ inch. Keep the soil consistently moist and provide warmth and adequate light for germination.

Once the seedlings have developed several sets of true leaves and the danger of frost has passed, they can be transplanted into the garden bed. Space the seedlings about 12 to 18 inches apart in rows or in a designated asparagus bed.

Remember that growing asparagus from seeds requires more time and patience compared to planting crowns. However, it can be a rewarding and cost-effective option if you are willing to wait for the plants to mature.

Caring for Asparagus Plants

Regular watering is essential for asparagus plants, especially during dry spells or periods of prolonged heat. Asparagus requires consistent moisture to thrive.

Mulching is beneficial for asparagus beds as it helps retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves, around the base of the asparagus plants. This will help conserve moisture in the soil, reduce the need for frequent watering, and provide insulation during extreme weather conditions.

Weed control is essential for asparagus plants, as weeds compete with the asparagus for nutrients, water, and sunlight. Regular weeding is necessary to prevent weed growth and keep the asparagus bed free from competition. Remove weeds by hand or use a hoe or cultivator to gently loosen the soil and uproot any unwanted vegetation. Be careful not to disturb the shallow roots of the asparagus plants while weeding.

What are Asparagus Ferns?

Asparagus ferns are the leafy, feathery growth that emerges from mature asparagus plants. These ferns play a crucial role in the health and vitality of the asparagus plant. They collect sunlight and convert it into energy through photosynthesis, which is then transported to the plant's roots to nourish them. This energy helps the roots develop and store nutrients for the next growing season.

Cutting back asparagus ferns at the appropriate time is essential for maintaining the health and productivity of the asparagus plant. After the ferns have turned yellow or brown in the fall, you can prune them back to the ground. This pruning helps prevent the ferns from self-seeding and conserves energy for the roots. By cutting back the foliage, the plant can redirect its resources towards root development and nutrient storage during the dormant period.

Using sharp pruning shears or scissors, carefully remove the ferns at ground level. Be sure to dispose of the cut foliage to prevent any potential diseases or pests from spreading.

Common Asparagus Pests

Asparagus plants may encounter pests that can affect their growth and productivity. Two common pests that target asparagus plants are asparagus beetles and aphids.

Asparagus beetles are small, elongated insects that feed on asparagus foliage and lay eggs on the plants. Both the adult beetles and their larvae can cause damage to the foliage, leading to reduced plant vigor and yield.

Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that can cluster on the undersides of asparagus leaves and feed on their sap. Their feeding can cause stunted growth, yellowing of leaves, and distorted foliage.

Harvesting and Storing Asparagus

Asparagus spears should be harvested when they reach a height of 6 to 8 inches. This usually occurs in the second or third year after planting, once the plants have become established. Harvesting too early may result in thin, weak spears, while waiting too long may lead to tough and woody stalks.

To harvest asparagus you don’t need any tools. Just hold the spear near the base of the plant and bend to the side until the spear snaps off at its natural breaking point. Harvesting spears regularly promotes the development of new spears and encourages continued growth throughout the season.

Storing Asparagus

Asparagus is best stored in the refrigerator to maintain its freshness. To do this, wrap the spears in a damp paper towel or place them in a glass of water. Store them in the vegetable crisper section of your refrigerator, where they can stay fresh for up to one week.

Caring for Asparagus Over the Winter

Asparagus plants require proper care during the winter months to ensure their survival and maintain their health for the following growing season. One essential task is cutting back the ferns. In late fall or early winter, after the foliage has turned yellow or brown, use pruners or shears to cut the ferns down to ground level. Removing the dead foliage prevents disease and pests from overwintering in the plant debris.

Adding organic mulch around asparagus beds offers several benefits during the winter season. A layer of mulch helps insulate the soil and regulate temperature fluctuations, protecting the asparagus crowns and roots from extreme cold. Organic mulch, such as straw, hay, or compost, also helps retain moisture and suppress weed growth. Apply a thick layer of mulch, about 2 to 3 inches deep, around the base of the asparagus plants, taking care not to bury the crowns.

Growing asparagus in your own garden can be a rewarding and satisfying experience. From selecting the right varieties to planting, caring, and harvesting, the process allows you to enjoy the delectable flavor of fresh asparagus while reaping the numerous health benefits it provides. Start your own asparagus garden, savor the taste of homegrown goodness, and experience the satisfaction of harvesting your own spears.

Step-By-Step Tips For Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Using Blackberries [Guide]

Blackberries, known for their sweet and tangy flavor, are a popular choice for gardeners looking to cultivate their own fresh and juicy berries. These delectable fruits belong to the Rubus genus and are closely related to raspberries. With their dark purple to black color and unique texture, blackberries are not only a delight to the taste buds but also a visually appealing addition to any garden.

Blackberries are not just a delicious treat but also a nutrient powerhouse. They are rich in vitamins C and K, fiber, and antioxidants, making them a healthy addition to your diet. Growing blackberries in your own garden allows you to enjoy these nutritional benefits without worrying about harmful pesticides or chemicals commonly found in store-bought produce.

Choosing Blackberry Varieties

Blackberries come in various cultivars, each with its own unique characteristics and qualities. Some popular blackberry varieties include Thornless Evergreen, Apache, and Triple Crown. These varieties are well-regarded among home gardeners for their exceptional fruit quality and growth habits.

Thornless Evergreen is a popular variety known for its thornless canes, making it easier to handle during harvesting and maintenance. It produces medium-sized berries with a pleasant balance of sweetness and tartness. Thornless Evergreen is known to be cold-hardy and performs well in various climates, making it a versatile choice for many regions.

Apache, on the other hand, is prized for its large and firm berries with a rich, sweet flavor. This variety is also known for its vigorous growth habit and excellent disease resistance, making it a reliable choice for many gardeners. Apache is known for its adaptability to different climates, including both colder and warmer regions. It can tolerate heat and humidity, making it suitable for areas with hot summers.

Triple Crown is renowned for its exceptionally large, sweet berries that are perfect for fresh consumption or adding to desserts. It features a semi-erect growth habit, making it easier to manage and harvest. Triple Crown is known for its ability to thrive in warmer climates, although it can also be grown in colder regions with proper care and protection.

Where to Plant Blackberries

Blackberries thrive in full sun, which is typically defined as at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. This ensures optimal growth and fruit production. Additionally, well-drained soil is crucial for blackberries as they are susceptible to root rot and other diseases in overly wet or waterlogged conditions. Adequate drainage promotes healthy root development and reduces the risk of water-related issues.

First and foremost, ensure the location receives full sun exposure for the majority of the day to promote optimal growth and fruiting. Blackberries also require well-drained soil to prevent waterlogged conditions and root diseases. Avoid areas prone to flooding or with heavy clay soils that retain water. Furthermore, consider the protection from strong winds, as excessive wind can damage the canes and hinder fruit production. If possible, select a location with natural windbreaks, such as fences or nearby structures, or consider planting windbreak plants. Additionally, take into account the proximity to other plants or structures that may shade the blackberry bushes, as this can reduce sunlight exposure and impact their growth and fruiting potential.

Planting Blackberries

Blackberries are best planted during their dormant season when they are not actively growing. Late fall or early spring is generally the optimal time for planting. Planting during these seasons allows the roots to establish before the growing season begins. In cooler regions, fall planting is preferred to give the plants a head start in the following spring. However, in areas with harsh winters, it's best to wait until the danger of frost has passed in early spring.

Start by preparing the planting area by removing any weeds or grass and loosening the soil. Add compost or organic matter to improve soil fertility and drainage. Next, determine the appropriate spacing between blackberry plants. This can vary depending on the variety and the growth habit. Typically, allow for 3 to 4 feet between plants within a row and space rows about 6 to 8 feet apart. This provides ample room for the plants to spread and ensures good air circulation.

When it comes to planting depth, it is important to handle the roots properly. For bare-root blackberry plants, soak the roots in water for about an hour before planting to rehydrate them. Dig a hole wide and deep enough to accommodate the roots without bending or crowding them. Spread the roots out in the hole and backfill with soil, gently firming it around the roots. Ensure that the soil level is at the same depth as it was in the nursery or container.

For container-grown blackberry plants, gently remove the plant from the container and loosen any circling roots. Place the plant in the hole at the same depth it was growing in the container. Backfill the hole with soil, ensuring that the plant is upright and the soil is firmly packed around the roots. Water the newly planted blackberries thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate any air pockets.

When handling the roots of bare-root blackberry plants, it is essential to be gentle to avoid damaging the delicate root system. Avoid bending or breaking the roots as this can affect the plant's ability to establish and grow. Handle the plants carefully, holding them by the crown or the roots themselves, rather than by the canes.

For container-grown blackberry plants, check the root system for any circling or tangled roots. Gently tease them apart or make small cuts to encourage the roots to grow outward. This helps prevent root girdling and encourages better nutrient uptake and overall plant health.

Ensuring proper planting depth is crucial for the success of blackberry plants. Planting too shallow or too deep can have negative consequences. The crown, where the canes emerge from the roots, should be level with or slightly above the soil surface. Planting too deep can lead to rotting of the crown, while planting too shallow can expose the roots to drying out and potential damage. Carefully gauge the depth during planting to ensure the crown is positioned correctly and the roots are adequately covered with soil.

Caring for Blackberry Plants

Adequate watering is crucial for the health and productivity of blackberry plants, particularly during periods of drought and fruit development. Blackberries have shallow root systems, so they are sensitive to moisture fluctuations. Water consistently to maintain soil moisture levels, especially during dry spells. Provide deep watering rather than frequent shallow watering to encourage the roots to grow deeper into the soil. Aim to provide about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation, ensuring that the soil is evenly moist but not waterlogged.

Weeds can compete with blackberry plants for essential nutrients, water, and sunlight. To maintain the health and vigor of your blackberry plants, it's important to control weeds effectively. Regularly inspect the area around the plants and remove any weeds that emerge. Use mulch or organic weed barriers to suppress weed growth and prevent their establishment. Take care not to disturb the shallow roots of the blackberry plants while weeding.

Blackberry plants benefit from regular fertilization to promote healthy growth and fruit production. Before planting, incorporate organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure into the soil. This improves soil fertility and structure. During the growing season, apply balanced organic fertilizers that provide a mix of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Choose fertilizers specifically formulated for berry plants or use a general-purpose fertilizer with a balanced NPK ratio. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for application rates and timing.

In terms of timing, it's generally recommended to apply fertilizers in early spring before new growth begins. You can also make additional applications in early summer after fruiting to support the development of new canes and flower buds for the following year. Avoid excessive fertilizer application, as it can lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.

Mulching is highly beneficial for blackberry plants. A layer of organic mulch around the plants provides numerous advantages. It helps conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation, thus reducing the need for frequent watering. Mulch also acts as a barrier, suppressing weed growth and preventing competition for resources. It helps maintain a more stable soil temperature, protecting the shallow roots from extreme heat or cold.

Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, straw, or compost, around the base of the blackberry plants. Ensure that the mulch layer is around 2 to 4 inches thick but avoid piling it directly against the canes to prevent moisture buildup and potential rot. Replenish the mulch as needed to maintain its thickness and effectiveness throughout the growing season.

Mulching also contributes to the overall health of the soil by improving its structure, promoting microbial activity, and gradually enriching it as the organic mulch breaks down over time.

Pruning Blackberry Plants

Pruning is an essential practice for blackberry plants as it helps maintain plant health, encourages new growth, improves airflow, and maximizes fruit production. By removing old and unproductive canes, you stimulate the growth of new canes that will bear fruit in the following season. Pruning also helps maintain a more open and organized plant structure, allowing better penetration of sunlight and airflow, which reduces the risk of disease and promotes even ripening of the berries.

Regular pruning also prevents overcrowding, which can lead to reduced fruit size and increased susceptibility to pests and diseases. It allows you to remove damaged or diseased canes, increasing the overall vigor of the plant. Pruning blackberry plants is typically done during the dormant season in late winter or early spring when the plants are not actively growing.

Blackberries are categorized into three main types based on their growth habit: erect, semi-erect, and trailing. Each type has slightly different pruning requirements:

Pruning Erect Blackberries

Erect blackberries have a more upright growth habit and typically require minimal pruning. In late winter or early spring, remove any dead or damaged canes, as well as weak or diseased canes. Leave the healthy, productive canes intact, as they will bear fruit in the coming season. It's also a good idea to remove any suckers that emerge outside the desired planting area to prevent overcrowding.

Pruning Semi-Erect Blackberries

Semi-erect blackberries have a combination of upright and trailing canes. They require moderate pruning to maintain an organized plant structure and encourage fruiting. In late winter or early spring, remove any dead, damaged, or weak canes. Prune the lateral branches of the remaining canes to a length of about 12 to 18 inches, cutting just above a healthy bud. This stimulates the growth of new fruiting laterals. As with erect blackberries, remove any unwanted suckers.

Pruning Trailing Blackberries

Trailing blackberries have a more sprawling growth habit and require more extensive pruning to manage their long canes. In late winter or early spring, remove any dead, damaged, or weak canes. Select and retain the strongest canes, usually about 4 to 6 per plant, and trim them back to a manageable length of about 4 to 5 feet. Secure the canes to a trellis or support system to keep them upright and prevent them from touching the ground. Prune the lateral branches of the canes to encourage fruit production.

Training blackberry plants

Trellis System: Install a trellis system before planting your blackberries. A trellis provides support for the canes and allows for better airflow and sunlight penetration. The trellis should be sturdy and about 4 to 6 feet high, with horizontal wires spaced about 18 inches apart. As the canes grow, tie them loosely to the trellis wires using soft ties or twine. Ensure the canes are spread out and not touching each other, allowing for good air circulation and minimizing the risk of disease.

Support System: If you have trailing blackberries, a support system is essential to keep the canes upright and off the ground. Create a support system by placing posts at either end of the row and running a wire or string between them. As the canes grow, gently weave them through the wire or string, ensuring they are supported and not trailing on the ground. Secure the canes with soft ties or twine if needed.

Managing Blackberry Pests and Diseases

Blackberries are susceptible to various pests that can damage the leaves, fruit, and overall health of the plants. Here are some common pests that you may encounter when growing blackberries:

Japanese Beetles: These metallic green beetles feed on the foliage of blackberry plants, causing skeletonized leaves. They can be controlled by handpicking or using traps. Insecticidal sprays approved for use on blackberries can also be applied.

Spider Mites: These tiny pests suck the sap from blackberry leaves, causing yellowing, stippling, and webbing. Regularly inspect the underside of leaves for signs of infestation. Spraying the plants with a strong jet of water can help dislodge mites. Introducing predatory mites or using insecticidal soap can also provide effective control.

Raspberry Fruitworms: These larvae feed on the developing fruit, causing damage and reducing yields. Inspect the berries regularly, and remove any infested ones. Applying organic insecticides labeled for fruitworm control can help prevent infestations.

When it comes to managing pests in your blackberry plants, organic methods can be effective and environmentally friendly. Here are some organic pest control methods you can use:

Beneficial Insects: Encourage the presence of beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory mites, which feed on pests like aphids and spider mites. Planting flowers that attract beneficial insects, such as marigolds or alyssum, can help attract them to your garden.

Physical Barriers: Protect your blackberry plants from pests by using physical barriers. Covering the plants with lightweight floating row covers can prevent insects from reaching the foliage and fruit. Netting can be used to protect the berries from birds.

Blackberries can be susceptible to various diseases that can affect their overall health and fruit production. Here are some common diseases that may impact blackberries:

Cane Blight: Cane blight is a fungal disease that causes wilting, dark lesions, and dieback of blackberry canes. Prune and remove infected canes promptly. Proper sanitation practices, such as cleaning pruning tools between cuts, can help prevent the spread of the disease.

Anthracnose: Anthracnose is a fungal disease that causes dark, sunken lesions on berries, stems, and leaves. Remove and destroy infected plant material. Provide good air circulation and avoid overhead watering to reduce humidity levels. Fungicidal sprays labeled for blackberries can be applied preventively.

To prevent diseases in your blackberry plants, plant disease-resistant varieties whenever possible. These varieties are bred to have increased resistance to specific diseases. Practice good garden hygiene by removing and destroying any infected plant material promptly. Avoid overhead watering, as it can create conditions favorable for disease development. Instead, water at the base of the plants. Provide adequate spacing between plants to promote airflow and reduce humidity levels. Mulch around the base of the plants to prevent soil splashing onto the foliage and spreading diseases.

Harvesting and Using Blackberries

When it comes to harvesting blackberries, it's important to pick them at the peak of ripeness to enjoy their full flavor and sweetness. The berries should have a deep, rich color that is characteristic of the variety you are growing. For most blackberry varieties, this is a dark purplish-black hue. Avoid picking berries that are still green or red. Ripe blackberries will be plump and firm to the touch. Gently squeeze the berries to assess their firmness. Avoid picking berries that are overly soft or mushy. Ripe blackberries will easily detach from the plant when lightly touched or gently pulled. If the berries require excessive force to detach, they may not be fully ripe.

Blackberries are delicate and can bruise easily. Hold the berry gently between your thumb and fingertips, being careful not to squeeze or crush them. Only pick berries that are fully ripe and ready for consumption. This ensures the best flavor and sweetness. It's best to harvest blackberries in small batches rather than picking large quantities all at once. This allows you to handle the berries carefully and prevent any unnecessary damage.

How To Eat Blackberries

Fresh Consumption: Enjoy the sweet and tangy flavor of fresh blackberries on their own as a healthy snack or add them to fruit salads for an extra burst of flavor.

Baking: Blackberries can be used in various baked goods, such as pies, tarts, cobblers, and muffins. They add a delicious sweetness and vibrant color to your favorite recipes.

Jams and Preserves: Make homemade blackberry jam or preserves to enjoy the flavors of summer all year round. Spread it on toast, use it as a topping for pancakes or waffles, or incorporate it into your favorite desserts.

Smoothies and Drinks: Blend blackberries into smoothies for a nutritious and refreshing treat. You can also use them to flavor homemade lemonades, iced teas, or cocktails.

Growing blackberries can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience, whether you have a large garden or a small balcony. By following the tips and techniques shared in this blog post, you can embark on your own blackberry-growing adventure and savor the taste of homegrown blackberries throughout the season.

Step-By-Step Tips For Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Using Broccoli [Guide]

Broccoli is not just a delicious vegetable; it's also a nutritional powerhouse. Packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, broccoli offers numerous health benefits. It is rich in vitamin C, vitamin K, fiber, and folate, making it a valuable addition to a healthy diet. Furthermore, broccoli contains compounds like glucosinolates, which have been linked to reducing the risk of certain cancers. Introducing broccoli into your meals can be a great way to boost your overall well-being.

Growing broccoli in your own garden brings a host of advantages. One of the most significant benefits is having access to fresh and pesticide-free produce. When you grow broccoli at home, you have complete control over the cultivation process, ensuring that no harmful chemicals are used on your plants. This allows you to enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing exactly what you're consuming. Additionally, harvesting your own vegetables can be an immensely rewarding experience. There's a sense of pride and satisfaction in tending to your plants and watching them flourish. Plus, the taste of freshly harvested broccoli is unparalleled, as it retains its crispness and flavors that can be lost during transportation. By growing broccoli in your garden, you can indulge in the delights of homegrown goodness and elevate your culinary creations to new heights.

What Type Of Broccoli to Grow In Your Garden

When it comes to choosing broccoli varieties for your garden, there are several popular options to consider. Green Magic, known for its compact size, is an excellent choice for smaller gardens or container gardening. It produces medium-sized heads with tight, deep green florets. Belstar, another popular variety, is prized for its excellent flavor and large, dome-shaped heads. It has a slightly longer maturity time, but the wait is well worth it. Calabrese is a traditional Italian variety and one of the most widely grown types of broccoli. It produces large heads with blue-green florets and has a relatively shorter maturity period compared to other varieties.

Each broccoli variety possesses unique characteristics that may influence your choice. Green Magic typically produces heads that are around 6-8 inches in diameter, making them suitable for individual or small-sized households. Belstar, on the other hand, can yield larger heads, reaching up to 10 inches in diameter, making it ideal for families or those who enjoy preserving or freezing their harvest. Calabrese tends to have medium to large-sized heads, averaging around 7-9 inches in diameter.

When selecting broccoli varieties, it's important to consider their suitability for different climates and growing seasons. Green Magic and Belstar are known for their versatility and adaptability to a wide range of climates. They can be grown in both cool and warm seasons, making them suitable for areas with varying temperature fluctuations. Calabrese, being a traditional variety, thrives in cooler climates and is best grown as a fall or early spring crop in regions with mild winters. Understanding the specific growing requirements of each variety will help you select the best broccoli types that align with your local climate and growing season.

Where to Grow Broccoli

Broccoli thrives in full sun, so it is crucial to choose a growing site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight is essential for the development of healthy and robust broccoli plants and ensures optimal head formation. Select a location in your garden that is not shaded by trees or buildings to maximize sun exposure.

When choosing the right location for planting broccoli, consider several factors. First, ensure that you have adequate space for the plants to grow and spread. Broccoli plants typically require about 18 to 24 inches of space between each plant, so plan accordingly. The chosen site should also receive ample sunlight throughout the day to promote healthy growth and head development. Avoid planting broccoli in areas shaded by buildings, tall plants, or trees that may obstruct sunlight. Additionally, consider the protection of your broccoli plants from strong winds. Broccoli plants have shallow root systems and can be easily toppled by strong gusts, so selecting a location shielded by structures, fences, or windbreaks can help protect them from wind damage.

Starting Broccoli Plants From Seed

To start broccoli from seeds, begin by filling seedling trays or small pots with a seed-starting mix. Sow the seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep, spacing them around 2 inches apart. Gently cover the seeds with soil and lightly tamp it down. Water the seeds thoroughly but avoid overwatering, as broccoli seeds can rot in excessively wet conditions. Place the trays or pots in a warm location with temperatures around 70 to 80°F (21 to 27°C) for optimal germination. Keep the soil consistently moist and provide adequate airflow to prevent damping off disease. Once the seedlings have developed two to four true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into the garden.

Using Transplants for Broccoli

Using transplants for broccoli offers several advantages. Firstly, it reduces the time it takes for the plants to mature and produce heads, allowing you to enjoy your homegrown broccoli sooner. Transplants also provide a level of convenience, as they can be purchased from nurseries or started indoors and then moved outside when the weather and soil conditions are favorable. However, there are considerations to keep in mind. Transplants may experience transplant shock when moved to a new location, especially if not properly hardened off. Harden off transplants by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over the course of a week before transplanting. Additionally, transplants may have limited root development compared to direct-sown seeds, so take care not to disturb the roots during transplanting to ensure successful establishment.

How to Plant Broccoli

Before planting broccoli, it is important to prepare the soil properly. Start by clearing the area of weeds or any other vegetation that may compete with the broccoli for nutrients and space. Incorporating compost or well-rotted organic matter into the soil can improve its fertility and drainage. This will provide the broccoli plants with the necessary nutrients for healthy growth.

When it comes to planting broccoli, spacing is crucial. Each broccoli plant should be given enough space to allow for proper air circulation and growth. Allow for a twelve inch squash area for each broccoli plant. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the transplant or seedling. Place the plant in the hole, making sure the crown of the plant is level with the soil surface. Gently firm the soil around the plant, ensuring it is well-supported but not compacted.

Providing adequate spacing between broccoli plants is essential for their overall health and development. Sufficient spacing allows for proper air circulation, which helps prevent the buildup of moisture and reduces the risk of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. It also gives the plants room to spread out and develop robust foliage and heads. If the plants are crowded together, they may compete for sunlight and nutrients, resulting in stunted growth and smaller heads. By allowing for ample spacing, you can ensure that each broccoli plant has enough room to thrive and reach its full potential.

Caring for Broccoli Plants

Regular watering is crucial for the proper growth and development of broccoli plants. Broccoli requires consistent moisture, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress and promote healthy foliage and head formation. Water deeply, providing enough moisture to reach the root zone of the plants. It is important to avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to root rot and other diseases. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Mulching around the plants can help retain moisture and reduce water evaporation from the soil surface.

Weed control is essential for the well-being of broccoli plants. Weeds compete with broccoli for nutrients, water, and sunlight, which can hinder their growth and development. Regularly remove weeds from the vicinity of broccoli plants, either by hand-pulling or using appropriate gardening tools. Mulching with organic materials like straw or wood chips can also help suppress weed growth around the plants. By minimizing weed competition, you can ensure that your broccoli plants receive the necessary resources to thrive.

Fertilizing broccoli plants is important for providing them with the nutrients they need for optimal growth and production. Before planting, incorporate well-rotted compost or organic matter into the soil to improve its fertility. Broccoli benefits from balanced organic fertilizers with an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratio of approximately 10-10-10 or similar. Apply the fertilizer according to the package instructions, typically at planting time and again during the growing season. Additionally, foliar feeding can be beneficial by spraying a diluted organic liquid fertilizer directly onto the foliage, providing a quick nutrient boost.

Mulching is a beneficial practice for broccoli plants. Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as straw, wood chips, or compost, around the base of the plants offers several advantages. Firstly, mulch helps conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation, thus reducing the frequency of watering. Secondly, it acts as a barrier against weed growth, minimizing weed competition and the need for manual weeding. Finally, mulch helps regulate soil temperature by insulating the soil, keeping it cooler during hot weather and warmer during cool periods. Apply mulch around the base of the plants, taking care to keep it away from direct contact with the stems to prevent potential rot or disease issues.

Broccoli Pests and Diseases

Broccoli plants can be susceptible to various pests that can hinder their growth and damage the foliage and heads. Common pests that may affect broccoli include cabbage worms, aphids, slugs, and caterpillars. Cabbage worms are green caterpillars that can feed on the leaves, causing significant damage. Aphids are small insects that suck sap from the plant, leading to stunted growth and distorted leaves. Slugs are nocturnal pests that feed on the leaves and can leave behind slime trails. Monitoring your broccoli plants regularly and being able to identify these pests will help you take timely action to prevent severe infestations.

When it comes to pest control in broccoli, organic methods are often preferred to minimize the use of synthetic chemicals. One effective method is to use floating row covers, which are lightweight, permeable fabrics that create a physical barrier around the plants. Row covers prevent pests from reaching the plants and laying eggs. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings, can also be introduced into the garden to prey on pests like aphids.

Harvesting and Storing Broccoli

Harvesting broccoli at the right time is crucial to ensure the best flavor and quality. Signs of broccoli maturity include compact heads with tightly closed buds. The heads should be firm and dense, without any yellowing or flowering. Avoid waiting too long to harvest, as over-mature broccoli can become tough and develop a bitter taste. It's better to harvest a bit early than to let the heads become too mature.

When harvesting broccoli, it's important to use a sharp knife or garden shears to cut the main head at a slant, about 5 to 8 inches below the head. Make the cut clean and avoid damaging nearby developing side shoots. Cutting the main head encourages the growth of smaller side shoots, which can be harvested later for a continuous supply of broccoli. Harvest the side shoots when they reach a suitable size, typically 2 to 4 inches in diameter.

Harvesting broccoli at the right time is crucial for optimal flavor. If left on the plant for too long, broccoli heads can become over-mature, with open buds and a stronger, less desirable taste.

After harvesting, there are different methods for storing broccoli. For short-term storage, you can place the unwashed heads in the refrigerator. To maintain freshness, it's best to store broccoli in a perforated plastic bag or wrap it in a damp paper towel. This will help retain moisture without causing excessive condensation. For long-term storage, blanch the broccoli by briefly immersing it in boiling water, then cool it rapidly in ice water before draining and packaging it in airtight containers or freezer bags. Properly blanched and frozen broccoli can be stored for several months.

Growing broccoli in your own garden offers numerous benefits, from its high nutritional value to its culinary versatility. Broccoli is packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a valuable addition to a healthy diet. By following the steps outlined in this blog post, you can successfully grow your own broccoli and enjoy the satisfaction of harvesting fresh, flavorful heads. From choosing the right variety to providing optimal growing conditions, each stage of the process contributes to a successful broccoli harvest.

Remember, broccoli is not only nutritious but also a versatile ingredient that can be used in stir-fries, salads, soups, and more. So, get started on your broccoli garden and relish the goodness and flavor it brings to your meals. Happy gardening!