Greenstalk Planter Review [Vertical Garden Planter]

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Vertical gardening is quickly becoming one of my favorite gardening hacks to not only grow more plants in small spaces, but also make gardening more accessible if you have chronic pain.

What is vertical gardening?

Vertical gardening is a way to grow plants in a vertical space, such as on a wall or fence. It can be used to grow a variety of plants, including vegetables, herbs, flowers, and even trees. Vertical gardens are a great way to save space, add beauty to your home, and grow your own food.

What are the benefits of vertical gardening?

Increased yield: Vertical gardens can produce more fruits, vegetables, and herbs in a smaller footprint.

Improved plant health: Vertical gardens can reduce the risk of pests and diseases by providing better airflow and drainage. They also minimize or eliminate weeding.

Reduced water usage: Vertical gardens can use up to 90% less water than traditional gardens.

Increased accessibility: Vertical gardens can be used by people with limited mobility or chronic pain.

Improved air quality: Vertical gardens can help to improve air quality by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen.

Are vertical gardens high maintenance?

No, most vertical gardens like the planter I use are very low maintenance. With the addition of automated timers for your grow lights and self watering trays you’ll really only have to maintain your garden once or twice a week.

How long do vertical gardens last?

My Greenstalk Planter is super durable - I’ve even heard stories of people having them fall off their decks and they were totally fine! My Greenstalk planter should last for many years, especially if they are properly cared for. You’ll be continually refreshing the plants in your garden as they reach the end of their lifecycle, which can be anywhere from a month for lettuce to six months for larger plants like squash.

How do you start a vertical garden?

To start a vertical garden, you will need to choose a location and purchase the necessary supplies. You can then choose the plants you want to grow and plant them in your vertical garden. The entire process is much faster than planting a traditional garden in the ground. I recommend choosing a spot that is easily accessible from your kitchen, so you can easily grab what you need before you start cooking dinner and have the freshest harvest possible. You’ll also want a spot in full sun if you’re using your vertical garden outdoors. I have this vertical garden outside on my deck to increase my available growing space and yield.

Greenstalk Planter Review

If you had told me I could grow 30 veggie plants, flowers and herbs in 2 square feet of space, I would have thought you were crazy. But the Greenstalk has grow pockets that are a full ten inches deep so my plants can grow as big as they want (and I can grow everything from carrots to peppers, tomatoes, herbs and squash!). It's by far the best way to maximize your garden space and make gardening more accessible if you have chronic pain like me.

The Greenstalk was a breeze to set up. I just filled each individual tier with soil and then my plant starts/seeds. The high-quality, food-grade, UV-resistant, BPA, BPS & PVC-free plastic tiers snap together with built in clips so there's no fiddling with tools or tiny parts trying to line everything up. I also got the spinner base with wheels which allows me to rotate the planter to get the most sun during the day and roll it around if it's ever in my way. Next I attached the self watering kit which is basically a long custom tube that clips to the side of the planter and connects directly to your hose to fill the top reservoir automatically. 

How does the Greenstalk planter work?

What makes this outdoor vertical garden unique is the patented top water reservoir for easier watering with 4 watering disks to easily distribute water. GreenStalk’s patented watering system delivers fresh water to every tier at the same time so you don’t have to water each pocket by hand. All you do is add water to the top tray up to the fill line and the Greenstalk does the rest utilizing a gravity-fed system to slowly and evenly drip irrigate your planter, which means no need to worry about thirsty plants OR root rot!

After using my Greenstalk all summer, fall AND winter with the optional frost cover, I can't imagine my garden without it. In fact, I'm trying to resist buying a bunch more! If I had a choice, all my garden beds would be at least three feet off the ground, but this setup combined with the self watering bluetooth timer in summer is a GAME CHANGER. Talk about hands off (and weed-free) gardening.

Does Greenstalk have a warranty?

Yes, they include a 5-year warranty on color and functionality of the planter. 

What can I grow in the GreenStalk Planter?

There are many different plants that can be grown in the Greenstalk planter, thanks to the super deep 10' pockets. I can grow peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, lettuce and other greens, herbs and even root crops like potatoes and carrots. strawberries are a really popular choice to grow in a Greenstalk planter as well. And of course I had to add some flowers like petunias, marigolds, and pansies. But these are just some of the many plants you can grow in your Greenstalk! Greenstalk  recommends growing larger plants in the GreenStalk Original and smaller plants in the GreenStalk Leaf.

Can I use the GreenStalk Planter indoors?

These Greenstalk planters are basically all-weather outdoor champs. Some folks get creative and bring them indoors, tweaking the lighting and drainage. But with the addition of a frost cover and some careful planning to grow cold loving crops you can continue the outdoor harvesting well into the winter months.

How to store a GreenStalk Planter during the winter months?

Greenstalk planters are made for all climates. They can stay outdoors all year long (yes, really!) or they can be cleaned, stacked, and stored away.  

How much does each tier weigh?

One Original Greenstalk with all its green glory and watering action hits the scale at around 30 lbs. If you're eyeing the Leaf Greenstalk, each tier throws down a weight of about 23 lbs.

How much soil do I need for the Greenstalk?

Each Original Tier holds 1 cubic foot of potting mix (about 8 gallons). Each Leaf Tier holds 0.75 cubic feet of potting mix (about 6 gallons).

Do I need special soil to use a GreenStalk?

Any high-quality, lightweight potting mix would work well. Avoid using topsoil, raised bed soil, or garden soil.

How often should I water my Greenstalk?

Watering is all about the season, weather, and the plants you've got growing. When you kick off the planter setup, my tip is to drench the soil using the water reservoir and each little pocket. If you're starting from seeds, give 'em a gentle mist until the plants are holding their own, so you don't go tossing those seeds around. And don't forget to sneak a peek and make sure the soil is staying moist below the top layer.

How long does the water sit in the reservoir?

GreenStalk's patented slow drip watering system allows water to drain through the system within approximately 5 minutes. If used correctly, there will be no sitting water anywhere in the system. The bottom of the GreenStalk includes little “feet” that allow water to drain out and away from the planter.

How do I fertilize my GreenStalk Garden?

You can add granular fertilizers, compost or worm castings when filling the tiers with soil, but the best hack is to add water soluble fertilizer as needed through the GreenStalk’s internal watering system when filling the top water reservoir.

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Want more vertical gardening ideas?

I love vertical gardening so much, I literally wrote a book on it. This ebook has everything you need to know to get started with indoor gardening, including DIY vertical gardens you can make, to-do lists so you don’t miss a thing and more. Just click here to grab your copy.

Extend Your Garden Season With These Techniques

With your garden prepped for winter, you may be ready to turn in and take a break from growing for a few months. But if you’re like me and the idea of the garden totally ending breaks your heart, there’s a few different ways we can extend our growing season and keep harvesting fresh food from the garden all year round. I’ll be using all of these methods in my own garden to grow cold loving crops while the snow falls.

How To Use Row Cover

There’s a good chance you have some plants already in the ground that can withstand cooler temperatures and give you harvests well into winter with a little planning. Plants in the brassica family for example have the ability to produce a type of natural anti-freeze that converts into sugars and makes the plants taste even better after a frost. But you can extend their life even further by utilizing frost covers which act as a cozy winter blanket and keep out the wind chill and moisture that causes the most damage to these cold hardy plants. These covers act as a shield against harsh frost, preserving the warmth around the plants and preventing frost damage. It's a simple yet effective measure to safeguard your garden and extend your harvest.

Benefits of Mulch

We aren’t the only ones who benefit from an extra blanket or two in the winter months. A layer of mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or straw around perennial plants acts as insulation, protecting their roots from extreme temperatures. It also helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds, contributing to the overall well-being of your garden beds during the winter months. A good rule of thumb is to use four to six inches of mulch around the plants - just don’t press the mulch up against the plant itself. We are insulating the roots, not the aboveground parts.

Using cold frames/cloches

A cold frame works by creating something like a mini-greenhouse, trapping warm air through solarization inside of the box and insulating the plants within from the worst that winter has to offer. We control the temperature inside of the cold frame with a simple vent - the hinged lid can be propped open with different sized sticks to allow excess heat to escape on warmer days, but for the most part in our deep New England winters the lid stays firmly shut until we trudge through the knee deep snow to harvest.

If you have the time and physical ability, building a cold frame yourself is absolutely the most economical solution. Purchasing one ready-made can cost you anywhere from $60-$500 and quality issues on the low end of that budget will prevent you from getting many years of use out of it. Meanwhile, if you build one yourself it can be done for far less than the low end of that range, and produce an end result that will be sturdy enough to continue providing shelter to your winter crop for years to come. While old windows can be fragile and prone to breaking, when they can be found for free I still find it a better option than a new piece of corrugated plexiglass.

Builing a Hoop House

Hoop houses are used by growers in all types of climates for many different reasons - but the main goal is climate control, whether that is to make the growing area colder using the artificial shade created or warmer by taking advantage of the insulating properties of the covered area to effectively move your grow zone south.

If you’ve never seen a hoop house before, you probably have and just didn’t realize it! The basic idea is that you form some sort of rounded roof structure using metal rods, cattle panel or pvc that bends down and is anchored to the ground and cover that with heavy duty greenhouse plastic that lets light in but keeps wind out and provides some insulation.

You can build your own greenhouse easily in an afternoon with just the help of one other person, and you don’t need any special skills or carpentry experience either. The hardest part is honestly just getting the cattle panel - they are huge, so unless you have a truck you’ll probably need to rent something or have them delivered. Click here for my full guide to build your own DIY cattle panel hoop house.

Cold Tolerant Plants

Of course, with any of these methods you still won’t create tropical conditions for your plants if you live in a colder climate. So it’s important to stick with plants that are known to tolerate temperatures down to about thirty degrees fahrenheit. Here’s a list of everything I’ll be growing this winter:

Gai Choy Mustard

This mustard matures in 40-60 days and grows anywhere from six to ten inches wide and ten to twelve inches tall. This is a head forming traditional Chinese mustard with a mild flavor when it’s young.

Bloomsdale Spinach

This is a dependable, open pollinated variety that matures in 28-45 days and grows about six to eight inches tall with dark green, thick and curly leaves. It’s a prolific grower with tender leaves and rich flavor.

Common Sorrel

This green has been popular in France and England for centuries but for some reason it isn’t as popular in the states. It matures in 60 days with bright green crinkled leaves that have a lemony spinach flavor.

Easter Egg Radish

This blend has red, white, pink purple and bi colored radishes that mature in just 30 days. Easter egg is a mild and crisp radish that forms small one inch globe shaped roots, so if you don’t like the spiciness of other radishes you may want to try this one.

French breakfast radish

These radishes are super mild - almost sweet and mature in 28 days. The root is scarlet with a white tip about 1 inch around and 2 or 3 inches long.

Spanish black radish

This is an extra large medium spicy radish that matures in 60-70 days with a black exterior and white interior. The globes are about 3-4 inches in diameter when mature. Since this is a winter radish it needs shortening day length and cool temps to mature, so this one gets planted later than the other radish varieties I’m growing.

Bok Choy Choko

I can’t live without this for my stir fries and this variety is so good and tender when harvested when it’s only about four inches tall. It matures in around 50 days and has smooth, leafy blades in a cluster with crisp, pale green stems. Choko was bred to be small and heat tolerant.

Big Seeded Mache

Mache can survive temperatures down to ten degrees fahrenheit and matures in 60 days. It’ll grow to be about six inches tall and eight inches in diameter with dark green, spoon shaped soft leaves in a loose rosette.

Tokyo Long White Bunching Scallion

These Japanese scallions are long, slender, mild and mature in 65 days. They are sweet enough to use in pretty much anything from salads, soups, and stir-fry dishes and grow about 16-18 inches tall.

Olesh Tres Fine Endive

This is a mildly bitter flavored green with a really interesting frilly texture that matures in 42-70 days. It grows about six inches wide and tall in rosettes with broad crinkled green leaves.

Ruby Red Swiss Chard

Chard can withstand moderate freezes and matures in 50-60 days, growing about 24 inches tall and eighteen inches wide with dark green crinkled leaves, red veins and stalks. I use this the same way I use spinach

Danvers Carrot

This variety was actually created an hour from where I live way back in the day when growers were looking for a carrot with improved yield, color and uniformity. It matures in about 65 days. It’s a sweet classic carrot that’s resistant to cracks and splits and roots grow about six inches long/

Astro Arugula

I said I would never grow this, but there’s very few foods I actively dislike and I have a personal rule that I re-try foods I hate about once a year in different forms or varieties and since arugula is so cold hardy, I had to bite the bullet with this and try a new type to see if I can learn to love it. Astro matures in 32-55 days and supposedly has more of a mild flavor than other varieties when the plants are young so I’m hopeful.

Mizuna Mustard

This tender Japanese mustard is milder than other varieties and ready to harvest in 30-50 days. It can grow up to a foot tall and wide but it’s usually harvested when it’s smaller.

Rosette Tatsoi

This beautiful leafy green is more flavorful than traditional bok choy and matures in 45 days. It is super cold tolerant down to 15 degrees fahrenheit and can be harvested even in the snow. It grows pretty low and wide with spoon shaped dark green thick leaves in a rosette.

Tendergreen Mustard

This is also called mustard spinach, but it’s not actually mustard OR spinach. It’s super easy to grow, hardy and productive and matures fast in 30 days to be about two feet tall and up to two feet wide with smooth dark green glossy leaves.

Are you team take a break for the winter, or keep growing?

Preparing Your Garden For Winter

By late October, the summer garden is hanging on by a thread, tattered and browning at the edges. Every day, I step outside and ask myself if this is the day to put it to rest. Admittedly, I probably wait longer than I should because I’m in denial about what’s coming. While some gardeners may be grateful for the period of rest winter offers, I’m just looking for more ways to keep growing even in the cold. I like living somewhere that experiences all four seasons, I just wish winter was just a little bit shorter! But eventually reality catches up with me, and I have to accept that it is time to take the necessary steps to prepare the garden for the winter months.

In my zone, 6b, we experience a long cold winter. We have a good four to five months of temperatures between zero and twenty degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes solid, everything dies back, winds pick up from the field and if I don’t take steps to protect it, the elements can do a number on the structures and systems I have in place for my summer garden. But there’s more to winter garden prep than just protecting what is there so it can lie in wait until next season. Now is also the best time to start preparing for any new additions you want to add to your garden for next year. So let’s dive into exactly what I’m doing to prepare my garden for winter.

Clear and compost dead plants

The very first thing I do to prepare the garden for winter is to try and give myself a clean slate. This not only tidies up the space but also helps prevent diseases from overwintering in dead plant material. For plants that remain disease free all season, you can use the “chop and drop” method to compost in place. Simply cut the plant down at the base, breaking apart any larger branches or sections so they can decompose easily, and lay them on the soil in your garden bed. These plants will break down over the winter months, returning nutrients to the soil. However, if you notice any signs of disease on your plants or just aren’t sure, it’s best to pull the entire plant up by the root. For things like powdery mildew, I’m generally not too worried about putting them into my regular compost. But if your tomatoes had blight, you may want to burn the foliage to try and stop it from spreading.

Add frost covers

There’s a good chance you have some plants that can withstand cooler temperatures and give you harvests well into December with a little planning. Plants in the brassica family for example have the ability to produce a type of natural anti-freeze that converts into sugars and makes the plants taste even better after a frost. But you can extend their life even further by utilizing frost covers which act as a cozy winter blanket and keep out the wind chill and moisture that causes the most damage to these cold hardy plants. These covers act as a shield against harsh frost, preserving the warmth around the plants and preventing frost damage. It's a simple yet effective measure to safeguard your garden and extend your harvest.

Look for abandoned tools

In the chaos of summer gardening, I know I’m not the only one who has lost track of a tool or two. It’s too easy to get swept up in the task at hand, exhaust yourself and then say you’ll “clean up later” but every gardener knows that later never comes. Take a quick inventory of your garden tools and do a walkaround for any abandoned tools that may have been left to rust so your valuable equipment doesn't deteriorate in the cold, wet weather. And then maybe make a plan for next year so you have an easily accessible drop point in your garden where you can keep tools without having to remember to walk them back to the shed.

Oil and clean tools

Now that you’ve recovered your neglected tools, it’s a great time to give them some TLC. Clean off any dirt with a dry brush, sharpen the blades and apply a protective coat of oil to prevent rusting and keep your tools in top-notch condition. For your more precious tools (like my Felcos) it’s worth taking the time to learn how to disassemble and oil any interior components. I know it seems like a lot of tiny pieces, but if you spend a bit of time watching how-tos on YouTube, anyone can do it with an hour or two to spare. This small effort pays off when spring arrives, and you can dive straight into gardening without dealing with rusty, malfunctioning tools.

Disconnect hoses

Frozen hoses can lead to burst pipes and costly repairs. To avoid this, disconnect and drain hoses before temperatures plummet. In most modern homes, each exterior spigot should have its own shut off point. Storing them in a shed or garage ensures they stay in good shape, ready for use when the growing season returns.

Make leaf mold

The more leaves you can “leaf” in place, the happier your lawn and neighborhood wildlife will be. But if you must rake up your leaves, you should definitely turn them into leaf mold. Creating a dedicated spot in your yard for leaves to break down will result in a rich, crumbly material that acts as a fantastic soil conditioner, improving the structure and fertility of your garden soil. It's a sustainable way to recycle nature's abundance and enhance your garden's health.

Wrap trees

Especially in very cold climates like mine, young trees or those susceptible to winter damage benefit from being wrapped with burlap or tree wrap. This protective layer shields the bark from harsh winter conditions, preventing sunscald and frost cracks. It's a simple yet effective measure for the long-term health of your trees.

Mulch perennials

We aren’t the only ones who benefit from an extra blanket or two in the winter months. A layer of mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or straw around perennial plants acts as insulation, protecting their roots from extreme temperatures. It also helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds, contributing to the overall well-being of your garden beds during the winter months. A good rule of thumb is to use four to six inches of mulch around the plants - just don’t press the mulch up against the plant itself. We are insulating the roots, not the aboveground parts.

Empty outdoor planters so they don’t crack

Freezing and thawing cycles can cause soil in containers to expand and contract, which can cause your clay or ceramic pots to crack. To avoid this, empty out some or all of the soil from your breakable containers or, if space allows, move them to a sheltered area. This simple step ensures your pots remain intact and ready for planting in the spring.

Prep new garden bed areas with cardboard and compost

If you're planning new garden beds for the next growing season, winter is an excellent time to start preparing the ground using the lasagna method. Lay down untreated cardboard to smother weeds and grass, and top it with compost, leaves or straw. This not only enriches the soil but also creates a weed-free foundation for your future garden.

Cover crops

Sowing cover crops, such as winter rye or clover, during the fall is a smart way to protect and improve your garden soil. These crops prevent soil erosion, suppress weeds, and add organic matter as they decompose. Come spring, you can easily incorporate them into the soil, providing a nutrient boost for your plants.

Cover raised beds

This one is more specific to my raised beds because they are off of the ground. While they are weather resistant on their own being made of cedar, in order to make them last as long as possible I grabbed firewood rack covers that are the exact size of my raised beds. These waterproof covers will protect my beds from the elements - but be aware that they can cause soil to turn hydrophobic if they totally dry out over the winter and aren’t typically necessary with standard raised beds. Because my raised beds also have wicking trays built into them, I’ve disconnected the tubes underneath so water won’t sit stagnant in the beds all winter. The arch trellises are powder coated, so they’ll be just fine out in the elements over the winter.

Watch me prep my own garden over on YouTube!

There’s always more that can be done to prepare the garden for winter, and some tips will be more specific to your garden setup. But with all this checked off my list, I’m looking forward to a slower season of rest and planning, organizing my seed collection (and let’s be real, buying a lot more) as well as drawing up new garden bed layouts for the spring. What are you doing to prep your garden for the winter months now?

Debunking Soil Myths: Solving The Mysteries Behind Good Soil Health

What’s so important about garden soil anyway?

Soil provides the foundation for plant growth. Different plants have specific soil requirements in terms of texture, composition, and pH levels. Understanding the soil allows gardeners to choose plants that are well-suited to the conditions, promoting healthier and more robust growth.

Soil serves as a reservoir for essential nutrients that plants need for their growth and development. By understanding soil composition, gardeners can identify nutrient deficiencies or excesses and adjust fertilizer applications accordingly. This ensures that plants receive the right balance of nutrients for optimal health.

Soil influences water retention and drainage. Some soils retain water well, while others drain quickly. Understanding soil characteristics helps gardeners implement appropriate watering practices. Overwatering or underwatering can lead to problems like root rot or dehydration, so a balanced approach is essential.

Knowledge of soil types and structures enables gardeners to implement erosion control measures. Certain plants and groundcovers can help prevent soil erosion, ensuring that valuable topsoil is retained and not washed away during heavy rainfall.

Soil structure, influenced by its texture and organic matter content, plays a role in aeration and root penetration. Gardeners can take steps to improve soil structure, such as adding organic amendments, which enhances the overall health of the soil and facilitates better plant growth.

Knowledge of soil conditions allows gardeners to tailor their gardening practices to the specific needs of their plants. This includes choosing appropriate planting times, selecting suitable varieties, and implementing effective weed control strategies.

What are the Key Factors Impacting Soil Health?

Several key factors influence soil health. The relative proportions of sand, silt, and clay in the soil determine its texture. Different textures impact water retention, drainage, and nutrient availability. The amount of organic material in the soil affects its fertility, structure, and water-holding capacity. Organic matter improves soil structure and provides essential nutrients for plant growth.

The pH level of the soil indicates its acidity or alkalinity. Different plants have specific pH preferences. Soil pH influences nutrient availability, microbial activity, and overall plant health. Essential nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients, are crucial for plant growth. Soil testing helps determine nutrient levels, allowing gardeners to adjust fertilizer applications based on plant needs.

Healthy soil is teeming with microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. These microbes play a vital role in nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and disease suppression. A diverse and active microbial community contributes to soil fertility.

Soil structure influences water retention and drainage. Sandy soils drain quickly but may not retain enough water, while clayey soils can retain water but may drain poorly. Ideal soil structure balances water retention and drainage.

Adequate aeration is crucial for root health and microbial activity. Compacted soil restricts air movement, leading to poor aeration. Practices such as tilling and adding organic matter can improve soil aeration. Soil erosion can degrade soil health by removing the topsoil layer. Factors like slope, rainfall, and vegetation cover influence erosion rates. Implementing erosion control measures, such as cover cropping and mulching, helps protect soil.

Biodiversity in the soil includes a variety of plants, microbes, and other organisms. Diverse ecosystems contribute to soil health by enhancing nutrient cycling, pest control, and overall ecosystem resilience.

Exploration of Soil Texture (Sand, Silt, Clay)

Soil is composed of mineral particles, organic matter, water, and air. The relative proportions of three main mineral particles—sand, silt, and clay—determine the soil's texture. Each type of soil particle has distinct characteristics, influencing the soil's properties and its suitability for different plants.

Sand particles are the largest among the three soil types, with diameters ranging from 0.05 to 2.0 millimeters. Sandy soil feels gritty and coarse to the touch. Sand has excellent drainage due to large particles, but water retention is low. It has good aeration, as sand allows air to move freely through the soil, but low fertility, as sand doesn't retain nutrients well. It is suitable for plants that prefer well-draining soil, such as cacti and succulents.

Silt particles are smaller than sand but larger than clay, with diameters ranging from 0.002 to 0.05 millimeters. Silty soil feels smooth and flour-like when dry and slippery when wet. Silt has oderate drainage and retains water better than sand. It compacts more easily than sand and is better at retaining nutrients than sand but not as well as clay. It is suitable for a wide range of plants, but benefits from organic matter to improve fertility and structure.

Clay particles are the smallest among the three, with diameters less than 0.002 millimeters. Clay soil feels smooth and sticky when wet and hard and clumpy when dry. Clay has poor drainage but retains water very well. It easily becomes compacted, but has high fertility. Clay soil is suitable for plants that tolerate or benefit from moisture retention, such as certain vegetables and water-loving plants.

Understanding the soil texture in a particular area helps gardeners make informed decisions about plant selection, watering practices, and soil amendments. Loam is a balanced soil type that contains a mixture of sand, silt, and clay, offering good drainage, aeration, and fertility. Gardeners often aim to improve soil structure by adding organic matter, which benefits all soil types by enhancing water retention, nutrient availability, and overall soil health.

Why You Should Add Organic Matter to Soil

Organic matter is a cornerstone of soil health, influencing nutrient availability, soil structure, water retention, and overall ecosystem dynamics. Organic matter acts as a reservoir for essential nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It has the ability to retain and slowly release these nutrients to plant roots, ensuring a steady supply for optimal growth.

Organic matter improves soil structure by promoting the formation of aggregates. This enhances soil porosity, allowing for better water infiltration and root penetration. Well-structured soil facilitates root development and provides aeration. It also increases the soil's water-holding capacity. It can absorb and retain water, making it available to plants during dry periods. This is especially beneficial in sandy soils with poor water retention.

Organic matter serves as a food source for soil microbes. Microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, break down organic matter into simpler compounds, releasing nutrients in a form that plants can absorb. This microbial activity contributes to overall soil fertility. It has a buffering effect on soil pH. It helps stabilize soil pH levels, preventing rapid fluctuations. This is important because many plant nutrients are most available within specific pH ranges.

Some components of organic matter, like certain compounds produced during decomposition, can have suppressive effects on soil-borne diseases. This contributes to the overall health of plants in the soil. And the improvement of soil structure through organic matter helps prevent soil erosion. Stable soil structure reduces the risk of topsoil being washed away during heavy rainfall.

Common Myths About Soil

Myth 1: Fertilizer Can Fix Any Soil Issue

While fertilizers are valuable tools for enhancing soil fertility and promoting plant growth, they come with certain limitations that need to be considered. Fertilizers typically provide specific nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, they may not contain the full spectrum of micronutrients and trace elements that plants need for optimal growth. Over-reliance on specific fertilizers may lead to nutrient imbalances.

Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to overapplication of nutrients. This not only wastes resources but can also have detrimental effects on the environment. Nutrient runoff from fields into water bodies can contribute to water pollution and ecological imbalances. The production, transportation, and application of synthetic fertilizers have environmental implications. The manufacturing process often involves energy-intensive procedures, and the runoff of excess nutrients can contribute to issues like algal blooms and waterway pollution. Continuous reliance on fertilizers without considering soil health and organic matter can create a dependency on external inputs. This may lead to a decline in natural soil fertility and long-term sustainability issues.

Certain fertilizers can influence soil pH. For example, nitrogen-based fertilizers can contribute to soil acidification over time. This can impact nutrient availability and the overall health of the soil. Some fertilizers, especially those containing high concentrations of salts, can lead to salt accumulation in the soil. This can be harmful to plant roots, affecting their ability to take up water and nutrients.

Plants may not utilize all the nutrients provided by fertilizers. Factors such as soil conditions, weather, and plant health can affect the efficiency of nutrient uptake. Unutilized nutrients may contribute to environmental pollution. Fertilizers provide a short-term solution to nutrient deficiencies. While they can boost plant growth in the immediate term, they do not address underlying soil health issues. Sustainable practices, such as incorporating organic matter, are necessary for long-term soil fertility.

Myth 2: All Soils Are the Same

Soils are incredibly diverse, and their variations arise from a combination of factors such as climate, parent material, topography, vegetation, and time. The geological material from which soils develop, known as parent material, greatly influences soil properties. Different types of rocks and minerals contribute distinct minerals to the soil, impacting its texture, nutrient composition, and overall characteristics.

Climate plays a significant role in soil formation. The amount and distribution of rainfall, temperature fluctuations, and freeze-thaw cycles all contribute to the physical and chemical weathering of rocks. These weathering processes shape the texture and composition of soils in a particular region.

The landscape, or topography, influences how water moves across the soil. Sloped areas may experience more erosion, leading to differences in soil depth and composition. Flat or valley regions may accumulate sediments differently, resulting in varied soil profiles.

The types of plants that grow in an area impact soil characteristics. Plants contribute organic matter through leaf litter and root systems, influencing soil structure, nutrient cycling, and microbial activity. Different vegetation types lead to variations in soil organic content. The presence and activity of soil organisms, such as bacteria, fungi, earthworms, and insects, contribute to soil diversity. Biological processes, including decomposition and nutrient cycling, vary across different ecosystems, shaping the unique characteristics of soils.

The acidity or alkalinity of soils, represented by pH levels, can vary widely. Different plants have specific pH preferences, influencing the types of vegetation that thrive in a particular soil and, consequently, the characteristics of that soil. Specific geographical features, such as river valleys, hills, and coastal plains, contribute to variations in soil types. The proximity to water bodies, elevation changes, and drainage patterns all play roles in shaping the unique characteristics of soils in different regions.

Myth 3: Vinegar as weed killer won’t damage soil

The myth that vinegar as a weed killer won't damage soil stems from the belief that because vinegar is a natural substance, it won't have negative impacts on the soil. However, this notion oversimplifies the complexity of soil ecosystems and the potential consequences of using vinegar as a weed killer. Vinegar is acidic, and its acetic acid content is what makes it effective in killing weeds. However, high acidity can have detrimental effects on soil pH. Excessive use of vinegar can lead to soil acidification, negatively impacting nutrient availability and the overall health of the soil. Soil is home to a diverse community of microorganisms crucial for nutrient cycling, decomposition, and overall soil health. The acidity of vinegar can potentially harm beneficial soil microbes, disrupting the balance of the soil ecosystem.

Vinegar-based weed killers are non-selective, meaning they can harm both weeds and desirable plants. Overspray or unintended contact with plants you want to keep can result in damage, affecting the overall plant diversity in the area.

Vinegar is a contact herbicide, meaning it primarily affects the parts of the plant it comes into direct contact with. It may not address the underlying causes of weed growth, such as soil compaction or nutrient imbalances, making it a short-term solution.

There are alternative, more sustainable practices for weed control that don't pose risks to soil health. For example, mulching, hand weeding, and maintaining proper plant spacing are methods that promote weed suppression without negatively impacting the soil.

Myth 4: Tilling is Always Beneficial

Tilling, or the mechanical cultivation of soil, has been a traditional practice in agriculture for centuries. While it can offer benefits in certain situations, there are instances where tilling the soil may not be a good idea due to various drawbacks. Tilling can disrupt the natural structure of the soil. It breaks down soil aggregates and destroys pore spaces, leading to compaction over time. This impairs water infiltration, root penetration, and air circulation, affecting overall soil health. Tilled soil is more susceptible to erosion, especially in areas with sloping terrain. The disruption of the soil surface removes natural protection against water and wind erosion, leading to the loss of valuable topsoil.

Tilling accelerates the decomposition of organic matter in the soil. Organic matter is crucial for soil fertility, structure, and water retention. Excessive tilling can deplete organic matter, leading to nutrient deficiencies and reduced soil quality. Tilling brings buried weed seeds to the surface, exposing them to light and promoting germination. This can lead to increased weed growth, counteracting the initial purpose of tilling.

Tilling disrupts the habitat of soil microorganisms. Beneficial microbes play a key role in nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and disease suppression. Excessive tilling can harm these microbes, impacting soil fertility and ecosystem balance. And while tilling initially loosens the soil, repeated or improper tilling can contribute to long-term soil compaction. The disruption of soil structure and creation of a plow pan can hinder water movement and root development.

Conservation tillage and no-till practices have gained popularity as alternatives to traditional tilling. These methods help maintain soil structure, reduce erosion, and conserve moisture while minimizing the negative impacts associated with frequent and intensive tilling.

WHAT SOIL IS BEST FOR RAISED BEDS?

The best soil for traditional raised beds that sit on the ground is a mix of topsoil, compost, and sand. Topsoil provides nutrients and drainage. Compost improves the soil quality. And sand helps to aerate the soil. You can buy a pre-made mix of soil for raised beds or you can make your own. I always recommend Coast of Maine soil mixes for filling raised beds. Their Castine Blend™ Organic & Natural Raised Bed Mix is the ideal soil for raised bed organic gardening. It is carefully formulated to provide balance between structure, water retention, drainage and aeration for growing strong, vigorous vegetables, herbs and flowers in raised beds, planter boxes or other container gardens. It provides your garden the rich and diverse soil it needs.

Coast of Maine prides themselves on using a high quality enriched blend of fully cured compost, sphagnum peat moss, dehydrated poultry manure, lobster and crab shell meal, greensand, biochar, worm castings and mycorrhizae in their mixes. Close attention to detail with frequent turning, sampling and testing plus a lengthy aging and curing process produces dark, rich compost that builds soil and enhances plant growth.

If you are gardening in elevated raised beds like mine that are on legs, these are technically considered container gardens. It is important to use a lightweight potting mix (which has no actual soil in it) since your container gardens have different drainage and weight requirements.

How To Grow Pumpkins In The Garden: Everything You Need To Know [Guide]

Pumpkins are a versatile and nutritious vegetable that comes in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors. From the delicate and tender to the rich and sweet, pumpkins, there is a pumpkin variety to suit every palate. Pumpkins are not only delicious but also packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and dietary fiber, making it a healthy addition to any diet. Their vibrant colors and unique textures make it a visually appealing ingredient that can elevate any dish. Whether you're looking to make comforting soups, hearty stews, vibrant salads, or even sweet desserts, pumpkin can be a go-to ingredient.

Growing pumpkins allows you to explore a wide range of varieties that may not be readily available in stores. You can experiment with heirloom or lesser-known varieties, each offering unique flavors and characteristics. This opens up a world of culinary possibilities, as you can tailor your dishes to your preferences and discover new and exciting flavor profiles.

WHAT KINDS OF PUMPKINS CAN YOU GROW?

The classic Jack-O'-Lantern Pumpkin boasts a large, round shape and a vibrant orange hue, perfect for carving spooky faces during Halloween. On the sweeter side, the Sugar Pie Pumpkin is smaller and squat, ideal for crafting delicious pies and desserts with its deep orange flesh. For a touch of fairy tale charm, the Cinderella Pumpkin features a flat, deeply ribbed profile in a reddish-orange shade, excellent for both roasting and decorative use.

Opting for a unique aesthetic, the White Pumpkin with its creamy or pale white skin can be used interchangeably with traditional pumpkins in various dishes, adding a visual twist. If seeking a classic pie pumpkin with a twist, the Long Island Cheese Pumpkin flaunts a flat, cheese-wheel shape in tan with light ribbing, lending itself well to pies, soups, and baking. For those drawn to a blue-gray appearance, the Jarrahdale Pumpkin serves as a delightful option, suitable for roasting, mashing, and decorative purposes.

Adding a touch of whimsy, the Fairytale Pumpkin features a flattened and deeply lobed structure in a reddish-orange hue, perfect for roasting and purees, while also bringing a charming aesthetic to dishes. The Musquee de Provence Pumpkin, with its ribbed, squat form and greenish streaks, offers an aromatic sweetness suitable for baking, soups, and decorative applications.

For a playful twist, the Pink Banana Pumpkin stands out with its long, slender shape and pinkish-orange hue, bringing a sweet, banana-flavored note to baking, purees, and creative culinary endeavors.

Rounding out the list, the Galeux d'Eysines Pumpkin captivates with its salmon-colored skin adorned with peanut-like warts, delivering a smooth and sweet flavor profile perfect for soups, stews, and as an eye-catching decorative item. Each pumpkin variety is a canvas for culinary creativity, promising a delightful array of flavors and textures for every kitchen experiment.

WHERE SHOULD YOU PLANT PUMPKINS?

Pumpkin plants thrive in full sun, so it is essential to select a growing site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight is crucial for the growth and development of pumpkins plants, as it helps them produce ample foliage and ensures optimal fruiting. Therefore, choose a location in your garden that is not shaded by trees, buildings, or other structures.

In addition to sunlight, pumpkins plants require well-draining soil. They prefer soil that is loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter. Well-draining soil prevents waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other diseases. To improve drainage, you can amend heavy clay soil with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. This helps create a looser soil structure, allowing water to flow through and preventing excess moisture retention around the plant's roots.

Pumpkin plants can spread and occupy a significant area, so ensure that you have sufficient space for the plants to grow and sprawl without overcrowding other crops or plants. Adequate spacing allows for good air circulation and helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

STARTING PUMPKINS PLANTS FROM SEED

This method involves directly sowing pumpkins seeds into the soil or starting them indoors and later transplanting the seedlings. Sowing seeds directly in the garden is a simple and cost-effective approach. On the other hand, starting seeds indoors allows for earlier planting and a head start on the growing season.

Pumpkin seeds should be planted when the soil has warmed up and all chances of frost have passed. This is typically in spring when the soil temperature reaches around 60°F (15°C) or higher. Ensure that the soil is well-draining and enriched with organic matter. Remove any weeds or debris and break up clumps of soil. Plant pumpkins seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the soil. Space the seeds 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart in rows, or follow the spacing guidelines specific to the variety you are planting. You may also plant three seeds in a hill formation. After planting the seeds, thoroughly water the area to ensure good seed-to-soil contact and proper moisture for germination. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged as the seeds germinate and the seedlings emerge. Once the seedlings have emerged and developed their first set of true leaves, thin them out if they are planted too closely together. Thin the seedlings to the desired spacing, typically leaving the healthiest and strongest ones.

Using seedlings from a nursery offers the advantage of a shortened time to harvest, as the plants are already established. It can be particularly beneficial in areas with a shorter growing season or for gardeners who prefer a more convenient option. Seedlings provide a head start in the growing process, allowing you to harvest pumpkins earlier than if you were to start from seeds, but buying seedlings can be more expensive compared to starting from seeds, and seedlings may experience some level of transplant shock when moved from the controlled environment of the nursery to your garden. This shock can temporarily slow down growth and require extra care during the transition.

HOW TO GROW PUMPKINS VERTICALLY

Vining pumpkins tend to spread out and take up a lot of garden space. By providing support or trellises, you can train the vines to grow vertically, saving valuable space in your garden. When vining pumpkins plants are trained upwards, they allow for better airflow around the foliage, reducing the chances of diseases caused by excessive moisture and promoting overall plant health. Growing vining pumpkins vertically makes it easier to locate and harvest the fruits. The pumpkins hang down from the trellis, making them more visible and accessible.

To provide support for vining pumpkins, you can use trellises, stakes, or cages. Install the support structure at the time of planting or when the plants are young to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the vines grow, gently train them to climb the support structure, securing them with garden ties or soft twine if needed. Be sure to choose sturdy supports that can handle the weight of the developing fruits.

WATERING PUMPKIN PLANTS

Pumpkin plants have high water needs, and lack of moisture can lead to stunted growth and poor fruit development. Aim to provide about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Fluctuating moisture levels can cause stress to the plants and lead to issues like blossom end rot or fruit cracking. Water the plants deeply, ensuring the moisture reaches the root zone. Mulching around the plants can help retain soil moisture and reduce water evaporation.

MULCHING PUMPKIN PLANTS

A layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture by reducing water evaporation. This is especially important during hot and dry periods when water availability is crucial for healthy plant growth. Mulch acts as a natural weed barrier, preventing weed growth and competition with pumpkins plants for nutrients and water. This reduces the need for frequent weeding, saving time and effort. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by keeping it cooler in hot summer months and providing insulation during cooler periods. This creates an ideal environment for root development and overall plant growth.

PUMPKIN PESTS AND DISEASES

Squash bugs: These insects feed on the leaves, stems, and fruits of pumpkin plants, causing wilting, yellowing, and decline. They can be identified by their flat, shield-shaped bodies and dark brown or gray color.

Squash vine borers: The larvae of these pests bore into the stems of pumpkin plants, causing wilting, dieback, and eventual plant death. Adult vine borers are clear-winged moths.

Cucumber beetles: These beetles can transmit diseases and damage leaves, flowers, and fruits of pumpkin plants. They are typically yellowish-green with black stripes or spots.

Organic pest control methods can help manage pumpkin pests effectively while minimizing the use of synthetic pesticides. Consider the following approaches:

Row covers: Use lightweight fabric row covers to physically exclude pests from reaching the plants. Cover the plants soon after planting and secure the edges to prevent pests from entering.

Beneficial insects: Encourage the presence of natural predators and beneficial insects in your garden, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps. These insects prey on pumpkin pests and help control their populations.

Pumpkin plants are susceptible to several diseases that can affect their overall health and productivity. Here are some common diseases that may affect pumpkins:

Powdery mildew: This fungal disease appears as a white, powdery coating on the leaves, stems, and fruits of pumpkin plants. It can cause leaf yellowing, stunting, and reduced fruit production.

Bacterial wilt: This disease is caused by bacteria that clog the water-conducting tissues of pumpkin plants, leading to wilting and eventual death. It is often transmitted by cucumber beetles.

TO PREVENT AND MANAGE PUMPKINS DISEASES, CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING MEASURES:

Crop rotation: Avoid planting pumpkins in the same area of the garden year after year. Rotate your crops to different locations to reduce the buildup of disease-causing pathogens in the soil.

Remove and destroy any infected plant debris to prevent the spread of diseases. This includes removing and disposing of infected plant parts, fallen leaves, and fruits.

Select pumpkin varieties that have resistance or tolerance to common diseases prevalent in your area. This can help reduce the risk of infection and improve plant health.

HOW TO HARVEST PUMPKINS

When it comes to harvesting pumpkins, there are a few signs that indicate the fruits are mature and ready to be picked. Look for pumpkins with firm skin and vibrant color. Depending on the variety, the skin may be tough and resistant to scratching or denting. Additionally, the stem connecting the pumpkins to the vine should be dry and starting to wither.

To harvest pumpkins properly, use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a small stem at least one inch long attached. Avoid pulling or twisting the pumpkins, as this can damage the plant and reduce the quality of the fruit. Handle the pumpkins with care to prevent bruising or puncturing.

HOW TO CURE PUMPKINS

Curing is particularly important for pumpkins varieties you want to store long term to last the winter. After harvest, wipe the outside down with soapy water and allow the pumpkins to cure in a warm and well-ventilated area for a period of time, typically about 1 to 2 weeks. This process toughens the skin, enhances flavor, and extends their storage life. During curing, the pumpkins should be kept in a single layer, allowing air circulation around each fruit.

HOW TO STORE PUMPKINS

Storing pumpkins properly is essential to maintain their quality and extend their shelf life. Winter pumpkins can be stored for several months when stored correctly. Keep them in a cool (50-55°F or 10-13°C), dry, and well-ventilated area. Avoid storing winter pumpkins near fruits that produce ethylene gas, such as apples, as this can cause premature ripening and spoilage.

Growing your own pumpkins can be a rewarding experience that provides you with fresh, flavorful, and nutritious produce. By following proper harvesting and storage techniques, you can enjoy your homegrown pumpkins for an extended period, adding versatility and delicious flavors to your meals. Start your own pumpkin garden, explore different varieties, and savor the many culinary possibilities that pumpkins have to offer.

Learn How To Garden With These Top 5 Gardening Books For Beginners

Garden books are like green-thumbed mentors for beginners, and there’s many ways they can lend a helping hand, whether you’re just learning how to garden or looking for inspiration. Garden books provide a solid foundation of knowledge. They cover everything from soil types to plant care, helping beginners understand the basics. Beginners often struggle with choosing the right plants for their location and understanding how to care for them. Garden books offer insights into the specific needs of various plants, helping beginners make informed decisions.

When issues arise—be it pests, diseases, or other challenges—garden books act as troubleshooters. They offer practical solutions to common problems, saving beginners from potential gardening disasters. Not to mention, creating an aesthetically pleasing and functional garden requires planning. Garden books often provide tips on garden design, layout, and how to create a harmonious outdoor space.

Gardening is as much about passion as it is about technique. Books can inspire beginners with beautiful garden photos, success stories, and creative ideas, motivating them to dive deeper into the world of gardening. And for those with busy schedules, books often provide tips on how to maximize results with minimal time and effort. This is particularly helpful for beginners who may be overwhelmed by the prospect of maintaining a garden.

What Should You Look For In A Gardening Book?

There’s a few factors that make a good gardening book. Most importantly, make sure the book is applicable to your climate and region. Gardening practices can vary significantly, so a book tailored to your specific location will be more helpful. Consider your gardening experience. Some books are geared towards beginners, while others target intermediate or advanced gardeners. Pick a book that matches your skill level to avoid feeling overwhelmed or underwhelmed.

Look for books that cover a wide range of topics, from soil preparation and plant selection to pest control and seasonal care. A comprehensive guide will serve as a valuable reference throughout your gardening journey. Practical advice and actionable tips make a book more useful. Look for real-world guidance that you can apply to your garden, whether it's about troubleshooting problems or optimizing your gardening space.

Books with high-quality images, illustrations, and diagrams can be more engaging and helpful, especially for visual learners. They can aid in understanding concepts and techniques. Check the author's credentials and experience. Books written by knowledgeable and experienced gardeners, horticulturists, or botanists are likely to provide more reliable information.

If you have specific gardening interests, such as organic gardening, container gardening, or landscaping, look for books that focus on those areas. Specialized books can offer in-depth insights into particular aspects of gardening.

Learning Gardening From Books vs Video

Both gardening books and videos have their merits, and the choice between them depends on individual preferences and learning styles. However, there are some advantages to gardening books that some people find particularly appealing. Books often provide more in-depth information on gardening topics. They can go into greater detail, offering a comprehensive understanding of concepts, techniques, and plant care. Books also serve as handy references that you can easily flip through and revisit whenever needed. They don't require an internet connection, making them accessible in various settings, including the garden itself. Books are usually well-organized with clear chapters and sections, allowing for a structured learning experience.

Readers can go at their own pace when using books. They can take their time absorbing information, re-reading sections as needed, and progressing through the material at a comfortable speed. For those who enjoy getting into the nitty-gritty details of gardening, books often excel in providing nuanced information. This can be particularly beneficial for more advanced gardeners or those who want to become experts in specific aspects of gardening.

While gardening books have their advantages, gardening videos also have their strengths, such as providing a visual demonstration of techniques and being more engaging for some learners. Ultimately, the choice between books and videos depends on individual preferences and the learning style that resonates most with you.

Let's dive into these green reads.

Encyclopedia of Country Living - Carla Emery

A comprehensive guide for rural living, this book covers everything from farming and gardening to traditional crafts and skills. It's like a one-stop-shop for mastering the art of country living.

For more than 50 years, this homesteading classic has been the essential book of basic skills and country wisdom for living off the land, being prepared, and doing it yourself. Keep your family healthy, safe, and independent--no matter what's going on in the world.

From homesteaders to urban farmers, and everyone in between, there is a desire for a simpler way of life: a healthier, greener, more self-sustaining, and holistic approach that allows you to survive and thrive—even in uncertain times.

With its origins in the back-to-the-land movement of the late 1960s, Carla Emery’s landmark book has grown into a comprehensive guide to living a self-sustaining lifestyle. Learn how to live independently in this comprehensive guide, including how to:

• Can, dry, and preserve food

• Plan your garden

• Grow your own food

• Make 20-minute cheese

• Make your own natural skincare products

• Bake bread

• Cook on a wood stove

• Learn beekeeping

• Raise chickens, goats, and pigs

• Create natural skincare products

• Make organic bug spray

• Treat your family with homemade remedies

• Make fruit leather

• Forage for wild food

• Spin wool into yarn

• Mill your own flour

• Tap a maple tree

Gaia’s Garden - Toby Hemenway

Focused on permaculture, "Gaia's Garden" explores sustainable gardening practices that mimic natural ecosystems. It's a guide to creating harmonious, self-sustaining gardens that work with nature rather than against it.

Gaia’s Garden has sparked the imagination of home gardeners the world over by introducing a simple message: working with nature, not against her, results in more beautiful, abundant, and forgiving gardens.

Many people mistakenly think that "ecological gardening"―which involves growing a wide range of edible and other useful plants―can take place only on a large, multiacre scale. As Hemenway demonstrates, it’s fun and easy--even for the beginner--to create a “backyard ecosystem” by assembling communities of plants that can work cooperatively and perform a variety of functions, including:

• Building and maintaining soil fertility and structure

• Catching and conserving water in the landscape

• Providing a rewilded and biodiverse habitat for beneficial insects, birds, and animals

• Growing an edible “forest” that yields seasonal fruits, nuts, and other foods

This revised and updated edition also features a chapter on urban permaculture, designed especially for people in cities and suburbs who have very limited growing space. Whatever size yard or garden you have to work with, you can apply basic permaculture principles to make it more diverse, more natural, more productive, and more beautiful. Best of all, once it’s established, an ecological garden will reduce or eliminate most of the backbreaking work that’s needed to maintain the typical lawn and garden.

No Dig: Nurture Your Soil to Grow Better Veg with Less Effort - Charles Dowding

As the title suggests, this book advocates for a no-dig approach to gardening. It delves into the benefits of preserving soil structure and health by avoiding traditional digging methods, making vegetable gardening more efficient and eco-friendly.

Have you ever wondered how to transform a weedy plot into a thriving vegetable garden?

Well now you can! By following the simple steps set out in No Dig, in just a few short hours you can revolutionize your vegetable patch with plants already in the ground from day one!

Charles Dowding is on a mission to teach that there is no need to dig over the soil, but by minimizing intervention you are actively boosting soil productivity. In fact, The less you dig, the more you preserve soil structure and nurture the fungal mycelium vital to the health of all plants.

This is the essence of the No Dig system that Charles Dowding has perfected over a lifetime growing vegetables.

So put your gardening gloves on and get ready to discover:

• Guides and calendars of when to sow, grow, and harvest.

• Inspiring information and first-hand guidance from the author

• “Delve deeper” features look in-depth at the No Dig system and the facts and research that back it up.

• The essential role of compost and how to make your own at home.

• The importance of soil management, soil ecology, and soil health.

Now one of the hottest topics in environmental science, this "wood-wide web" has informed Charles's practice for decades, and he's proven it isn't just trees that benefit - every gardener can harness the power of the wood-wide web. Featuring newly- commissioned step-by-step photography of all stages of growing vegetables and herbs, and all elements of No Dig growing, shot at Charles’s beautiful market garden in Somerset, you too will be able to grow more veg with less time and effort, and in harmony with nature - so join the No Dig revolution today!

Our Kindred Home - Alyson Morgan

Alyson Morgan, a second-generation Haitian American, grew up feeling disconnected from her roots and suffering from the trauma of racism. To heal herself, she found a connection with the natural world around her: slowing down, respecting the seasons, and growing or foraging plants in her local area. To Alyson, connection with the earth means finding a sense of place and home in an era of stress and overwhelm. Now she shares her methods of homesteading for anyone to practice in their own life. Beautifully photographed, with plant monographs, illustrations, and recipes, Our Kindred Home explores our deep ties to the natural world and offers regenerative and sustainable ways of living.

Alyson helps readers better understand the deep grief and systemic harm that stems from disconnection with nature, and provides pathways for healing, such as:

• An exploration of ecological grief and its impacts

• Information for working with subtle body energy

• Tools for observing, identifying, foraging, and cultivating plants

• Methods for creating infusions, honeys, vinegars, and oils

• More than 80 seasonal and 40 plant monographs

With the whole world in environmental crisis, creating a relationship with the earth that is reciprocal rather than exploitative and understanding our fundamental interconnectedness is more vital than ever. In Our Kindred Home, you'll find everyday ways to connect to the earth for resilience, resistance, liberation, and collective healing.

The New Organic Grower, 3rd Edition: A Master's Manual of Tools and Techniques for the Home and Market Gardener - Eliot Coleman

Geared towards both home and market gardeners, this manual provides insights into organic growing methods. From tools to techniques, it's a guide for those wanting to cultivate organic produce, whether for personal consumption or the market.

Since its original publication in 1989, The New Organic Grower has been one of the most important farming books available, with pioneer Eliot Coleman leading the charge in the organic movement in the United States. Now fully illustrated and updated, this 30th Anniversary Edition is a must-have for any agricultural library.

Eliot Coleman’s books and innovative methods have helped innumerable organic farmers build successful farms in deep accordance with nature. The wisdom in this seminal book holds true even as the modern agricultural canon has grown―in large part due to Coleman’s influence as a wise elder with decades of experience. New information has been included in this edition to showcase the new tools and techniques that Eliot has been developing over the last thirty-five years.

Inspired by the European intensive growers, The New Organic Grower, 30th Anniversary Edition, offers a very approachable and productive form of farming that has proven to work well for the earth and its stewards for centuries. Gardeners working on 2.5 acres or less will find this book especially useful, as it offers proof that small-scale market growers and serious home gardeners can live good lives close to the land and make a profit at the same time. The New Organic Grower is ideal for young farmers just getting started, or gardeners seeking to expand into a more productive enterprise.

New material in this edition includes:

• Beautiful color photographs throughout, taken by master gardener and author Barbara Damrosch (Eliot’s wife and co-farmer)

• Updated information throughout on how Eliot’s practices have changed through his experiments over the years

• A new section from Damrosch about incorporating flowers on the small farm

• More information on new tools Eliot has invented that don’t appear in any of his other books

In the ever-expanding world of gardening literature, these books stand out as essential companions for enthusiasts at every level. Whether you're dreaming of a self-sufficient homestead, aiming for a flourishing permaculture oasis, or simply seeking practical tips for a thriving garden, these books offer the wisdom to nurture your green paradise. Let the pages of these gardening books unfold a tapestry of knowledge and inspiration as you cultivate the garden of your dreams. Happy reading and happy gardening!