From Compost to Amendments: Soil Solutions for Raised Garden Beds

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I’ve been gardening for most of my life in one form or another, but around ten years ago I was diagnosed with psoriatic arthritis, and since then I’ve had a whole decade to come up with the best gardening hacks to and gardening tools for gardening with chronic pain and low energy.

Psoriatic arthritis often confuses people who don’t have it - its cousins rheumatoid and osteoarthritis are far more common, so there’s a misconception that psoriatic arthritis isn’t as serious or doesn’t have as much of an impact on quality of life as these more well known forms of arthritis. The fact is that psoriatic arthritis is more than a skin condition. I experience severe joint pain and fatigue, just like someone with rheumatoid arthritis or osteoarthritis. I just get the added “bonus” of sensitive dry skin too. While exercise can help with my symptoms, it can also make them worse if I push myself too hard. I’ve had to learn my physical limitations by testing them, and they are a lot lower than someone living without an autoimmune disease. The idea that arthritis is an “old person's” condition is so pervasive that people often think it can’t really be that bad, especially since I don’t look sick and I’m not old. But invisible illnesses like arthritis and other autoimmune conditions can dramatically change your life, no matter your age or outward appearance.

In order to continue with my love of gardening even with arthritis, I invested in gardening tools that would make it possible for me to continue doing what I love. The biggest change I made in the garden to support my body came in the form of 6 new elevated garden beds from Gardener’s Supply Company.

Self-Watering Elevated Planter Box, 2' x 8'

These no-bend garden boxes keep plants hydrated via a series of innovative, connected reservoirs that deliver water to roots on demand. Four generous 5-gallon reservoirs extend the time between waterings and create more even moisture throughout the bed. And, since water is drawn primarily from the bottom instead of applied from the top, less water is lost to evaporation too! 10" planting depth accommodates a wide variety of crops, from tomatoes to root-crops like carrots.

The height of the planter box has other advantages too: fewer weeds, reduced maintenance, and fewer critters nibbling at your prize plants. The sturdy aluminum legs won't buckle or sag, and the wood is naturally rot-resistant and safe for your organic crops. Best of all, it allows me to garden at table-height, eliminating the bending and kneeling that makes gardening difficult on my joints. They are made of durable cedar wood with metal legs, and I like that the natural materials blend in seamlessly with the environment.

After building and placing my raised garden beds, it was time to fill them. But understanding what soil is best for raised beds isn’t always as straightforward as it seems. Filling raised garden beds will either set your garden up for success, or failure. The good news is once you’ve finished reading this post you’ll know exactly how to fill a raised bed cheaper, what to fill your raised beds with, what is the difference between garden soil and topsoil and more.

What should I fill my raised garden bed with?

The goal is to fill your raised garden beds with a mix of components that will deliver nutrients to your growing plants and encourage the right amount of water retention and drainage. You can accomplish this by putting organic matter such as old logs, sticks, grass clippings and leaf mold at the base, followed by a layer of topsoil and then finally a layer of compost.

The ratio that you use is going to depend on a lot of factors specific to your local climate. For example, in especially damp climates you’ll want to incorporate significantly more drainage. And, if you’re growing vegetables or other produce, you’re going to need a higher ratio of nutrient dense compost or fertilizer.

You can get bagged soil and compost from local nurseries, but it’s a lot more economical to have your soil delivered in bulk. For my six beds, I needed 3 yards of soil. I wanted to buy the soil in bulk because the cost would be less than half and I wouldn’t need to worry about recycling all those bags, but since my beds are raised off of the ground there’s no way they could support the weight of true garden soil - I needed a lightweight potting mix blend that would drain well but hold some moisture. I went with Coast of Maine potting mix because it’s some of the best soil you can buy, and the bags were recyclable at the same drop off points you can recycle your plastic shopping bags at in grocery stores.

If you do decide to get bagged soil, keep in mind that soil that is sold at big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot is questionable quality at best - in fact, last year there was a huge scandal because large amounts of this bagged soil were found to be contaminated with herbicides. It’s much safer to get your bagged soil or bulk soil from a local garden nursery that specializes in products meant for growing food and flowers. The last thing you want is to have all your hard work planning and planting your garden go to waste because your plants aren’t able to thrive in the soil that you used.

It’s very important not to underfill your beds. It will settle and sink down a lot more than you think. In addition, if you use too much organic matter like leaves this will cause your soil level to sink even more dramatically as the material decomposes throughout the season. This can happen pretty quickly. You’ll also need to top off your raised beds with a compost blend at the beginning of each new gardening season to accommodate for soil nutrients lost to plants using it up and general settling. A fresh layer of compost on top of your raised beds will revitalize the soil and make sure it is ready to continue helping your plants thrive for many years to come. You can also plant a cover crop in the fall to add additional nutrients to your soil, or use a mulch like wood chips that will slowly release nutrients as it breaks down.

How do you fill a raised bed cheaply?

If you’re on a tight budget for filling raised garden beds, I’d recommend the hugelkultur method. Hugelkultur is a centuries-old, traditional way of building a garden bed from rotten logs and plant debris. Buried in a hugelkultur bed, decomposing wood releases water and nutrients into the soil to conserve precious resources. This method is popular in permaculture and allows you to use less soil and more found organic matter that is free. Hugelkultur beds hold moisture extremely well and are great for dry climates. Don’t let a small budget keep you from gardening. There are many ways to improve the quality of your soil over time even if it isn’t that great in your first year.

Where can you find garden soil for raised beds?

The best place to find high quality garden soil for your raised beds is at your local garden nursery. Look for a topsoil/compost blend or raised bed mix. Sometimes you can even find local companies that offer residential composting services and then resell the compost as its own product. This is more common in rural areas.

What should you not put in a raised bed?

Avoid putting any painted or pressure treated woods in the base of your raised beds, as toxic chemicals can leach from the wood into your soil and plants.

What is the difference between garden soil and topsoil?

Garden soil is topsoil that has been enriched to make it better suited for plant growth. Amendments may include compost or other organic matter, and some soils – like perennial potting mixes – have added ingredients to encourage growth of specific types of plants.

Is topsoil OK for raised beds?

You should never use only topsoil for raised garden bed soil, or only compost. Your plants need a healthy balance of both in order to grow properly. This will depend on your climate and if any of your plants are heavy feeders that require lots of fertilizer. A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of one to one - fifty percent topsoil and fifty percent compost.

Do you need special soil for raised beds?

There are many specialized garden soil for raised beds mixes available both commercially as a pre-bagged product and in bulk from local nurseries. I always recommend getting the best soil for raised beds you can afford, since it is the building block that will nourish your growing plants and give it what it needs in order to produce well. These blends are most likely to give you the best results. But plants are resilient creatures, so if your budget is limited or you don’t have access to the highest quality soil for raised beds, don’t let that stop you from trying to grow! You can plant cover crops and add liquid fertilizer to improve the quality of your soil over time.

Are you filling raised garden beds this year?
let me know how you grow in the comments!

Growing Nasturtium Flowers In Your Garden [Guide]

Nasturtiums are beautiful flowers that come in a range of colors, including shades of yellow, orange, red, and even variegated combinations. What makes nasturtiums even more appealing is their versatility, as they can be grown in various garden settings, such as containers, borders, or hanging baskets. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, nasturtiums are a great choice due to their ease of growth and low maintenance requirements.

One of the key benefits of growing nasturtiums is their stunning and vivid colors that can instantly liven up your garden. Their vibrant blooms can create a visually pleasing focal point or add a pop of color to a dull corner. Nasturtiums also attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, contributing to a healthy and vibrant ecosystem in your garden.

Apart from their ornamental value, nasturtiums are also edible. The leaves, flowers, and even the seeds of nasturtiums are edible and can be used in various culinary applications. The leaves have a peppery flavor similar to watercress, while the flowers have a slightly milder and sweeter taste. They can be added to salads, used as garnishes, or even infused into oils and vinegars for a unique flavor twist.

Another advantage of growing nasturtiums is their ability to repel certain pests in the garden. Nasturtiums emit a fragrance that deters aphids and other harmful insects, making them a natural pest control option. By planting nasturtiums alongside your other plants, you can create a more balanced and pest-resistant garden ecosystem.

Whether you're looking to enhance the visual appeal of your garden, enjoy their edible flowers and leaves, or utilize their natural pest-repelling properties, growing nasturtiums is a rewarding and beneficial gardening experience. With their vibrant colors, versatility, and culinary uses, nasturtiums are sure to bring joy and excitement to your garden and kitchen.

What Type of Nasturtium Should You Grow?

When it comes to nasturtium varieties, there are several popular options to choose from, each with its own unique characteristics and charm. Some of the commonly grown nasturtium varieties include Alaska, Jewel Mix, and Empress of India.

Alaska is a popular nasturtium variety known for its stunning variegated foliage. The leaves of Alaska are marbled with shades of green and cream, providing an eye-catching backdrop to the vibrant flowers. The flowers come in a range of colors, including shades of orange, yellow, and red. Alaska nasturtiums typically grow to a height of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), making them suitable for containers or borders.

Jewel Mix is another popular choice among gardeners. This variety features a dazzling array of flower colors, including shades of orange, yellow, red, and mahogany. The flowers of Jewel Mix nasturtiums are larger in size and have a slightly ruffled appearance, adding a touch of elegance to any garden. The plants can reach a height of 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) and are well-suited for borders or hanging baskets.

Empress of India is a unique nasturtium variety known for its deep, velvety crimson flowers. The intense red blooms contrast beautifully with the plant's dark green foliage, creating a captivating visual display. Empress of India nasturtiums typically grow to a height of 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm) and are well-suited for containers or borders.

When choosing a nasturtium variety, consider the specific garden setting you have in mind. Alaska nasturtiums, with their variegated foliage and versatile flower colors, can add a splash of interest to containers or borders. Their compact growth habit makes them suitable for smaller spaces.

Jewel Mix nasturtiums, with their larger and vibrant flowers, are great for adding a burst of color to borders, hanging baskets, or cascading over walls. Their trailing growth habit allows them to create a cascading effect, making them ideal for draping over edges or spilling out of containers.

Empress of India, with its deep red blooms and dark green foliage, creates a striking contrast. This variety can be planted as a focal point in containers or used to add depth and richness to borders.

Consider the available space, desired visual impact, and the specific garden setting when selecting nasturtium varieties. By choosing the right nasturtium variety for your garden, you can create a captivating display and enhance the overall aesthetics of your outdoor space.

Where Should You Plant Nasturtiums?

Nasturtiums thrive in full sun to partial shade, making it important to select a growing site that provides the optimal amount of sunlight. While they can tolerate some shade, nasturtiums generally produce more abundant blooms and lush foliage when exposed to at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. This ensures that the plants receive sufficient energy to develop vibrant flowers and lush foliage.

Soil preparation is essential for the successful growth of nasturtiums. These plants prefer well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Before planting, it is beneficial to amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to improve its fertility and texture. This enhances the soil's ability to retain moisture while also promoting healthy root development.

In addition to adding organic matter, ensuring proper drainage is crucial for nasturtiums. They are susceptible to root rot and other fungal diseases in waterlogged soil. If the soil in your chosen location is heavy or tends to retain water, consider incorporating sand or perlite to improve drainage. This will help prevent waterlogged conditions and promote healthy root growth.

Look for areas in your garden that receive ample sunlight throughout the day, especially during the morning and early afternoon. While nasturtiums can tolerate partial shade, providing them with enough sunlight will result in stronger growth and more abundant blooms.

Nasturtiums are known for their sprawling growth habit, so ensure that they have sufficient space to spread and trail without overcrowding nearby plants. In terms of soil compatibility, nasturtiums are generally adaptable and can grow well in a wide range of soil types.

How to Start Nasturtiums From Seed

Nasturtium seeds have a hard outer shell, and soaking them prior to planting can help speed up germination. Place the seeds in a container and cover them with warm water. Let them soak for 12 to 24 hours.

Once the seeds have been soaked, choose a well-prepared garden bed or container for direct sowing. Make sure the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Dig shallow holes or furrows about 1 inch deep and 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the variety. Place the soaked seeds in the holes or furrows, spacing them about 1 inch apart. Cover the seeds with soil, gently firming it down to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. After planting, water the soil thoroughly but gently to avoid displacing the seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs.

Nasturtium seeds typically germinate within 7 to 14 days, depending on the temperature and conditions. Once the seedlings emerge, thin them to the desired spacing, usually around 12 inches apart for compact varieties and up to 24 inches apart for trailing varieties.

Caring for Nasturtium Flowers

Regular watering is crucial for the health and vitality of nasturtiums. These plants prefer consistently moist soil, especially during dry periods. Watering should be done deeply and evenly to ensure the entire root zone is adequately hydrated. It is important to avoid overwatering, as excessively wet soil can lead to root rot and other diseases. Monitor the moisture level of the soil and adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce water evaporation.

Weed control is essential for the successful growth of nasturtiums. Weeds can compete with the plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight, potentially hindering their growth and development. Regularly inspect the planting area and remove any weeds that emerge. It is best to hand-pull weeds or use shallow cultivation to avoid damaging the shallow roots of the nasturtiums. Applying a layer of organic mulch around the plants can also help suppress weed growth by smothering weed seeds and preventing them from germinating.

Nasturtiums are generally not heavy feeders and can thrive in moderately fertile soil. However, providing them with some additional nutrients can promote better growth and more abundant flowering. Organic fertilizers, such as compost or well-rotted manure, are excellent choices for nourishing nasturtiums. These natural fertilizers provide a slow release of nutrients and help improve the soil structure. Apply compost or well-rotted manure around the base of the plants, taking care not to bury the stems. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can result in excessive foliage growth at the expense of flower production.

Mulching offers several benefits when it comes to growing nasturtiums. A layer of organic mulch, such as straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips, helps conserve moisture in the soil by reducing water evaporation. This is particularly important during hot and dry periods. Mulch also acts as a natural weed barrier, suppressing the growth of unwanted plants and reducing the need for frequent weeding. Additionally, mulch helps regulate soil temperature, keeping the roots cool in hot weather and insulating them during cooler periods. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants, taking care to keep it a few inches away from the stems to prevent moisture-related issues.

Should You Prune Nasturtiums?

Pruning nasturtiums can have several benefits, including promoting bushier growth and enhancing the overall appearance of the plants. By selectively removing certain stems or branches, you can encourage the development of lateral shoots, resulting in a fuller and more compact plant. Pruning also helps maintain the desired shape and size of the nasturtiums, preventing them from becoming leggy or sprawling.

If you’re wondering how to prune nasturtiums, start by assessing the overall growth of the plants. Look for long, straggly stems or branches that may be detracting from the plant's appearance. Using a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or scissors, carefully trim back these overgrown stems to a desired length, preferably just above a set of healthy leaves or lateral shoot. This will encourage the plant to produce new growth from the trimmed area, leading to a bushier and more attractive plant overall.

It's important to note that pruning should be done selectively and with care, as excessive pruning or cutting into old wood can weaken the plant and affect its ability to produce flowers. It's recommended to prune nasturtiums during the active growing season, typically in late spring or early summer when the plants are actively producing new growth. Avoid pruning too late in the season, as this may remove potential flower buds and reduce the plant's blooming capacity.

How to Deadhead Nasturtiums

Deadheading is the process of removing spent or faded flowers from the nasturtium plants. It serves two main purposes: promoting continuous blooming and improving the overall appearance of the plants. When left unattended, the flowers of nasturtiums will naturally fade and form seed pods. By deadheading, you can redirect the plant's energy towards producing more flowers instead of setting seeds, resulting in a prolonged and abundant blooming period.

To deadhead nasturtiums, inspect the plants regularly and identify flowers that have started to fade or wilt. Follow the stem down to the first set of healthy leaves or lateral shoot, and use your fingers or a pair of pruning shears to remove the flower head just above this point. Make sure to cut or pinch off the entire flower, including the seed pod if it has started to develop. Removing the entire flower will prevent the formation of seeds and signal the plant to produce more flowers.

How to Harvest Nasturtium Flowers

Harvesting nasturtium flowers and leaves should be done when they are fully open and vibrant, usually in the morning when the plants are well-hydrated. Look for flowers that have reached their full size and display rich colors, such as vibrant oranges, yellows, and reds. Gently pluck the flowers from the stem, taking care not to damage the plant or surrounding blooms. As for the leaves, choose young and tender ones, as they tend to have a milder flavor. Harvesting both the flowers and leaves regularly will encourage the plant to produce more blooms throughout the season.

The bright and peppery flavor of nasturtium flowers makes them a delightful addition to salads, adding a burst of color and a hint of spice. They can also be used as a garnish for various dishes, imparting both visual appeal and a unique flavor. Nasturtium leaves can be used as a substitute for herbs like watercress or arugula, lending a similar peppery taste to soups, sauces, and pesto. Additionally, the unripe seed pods, often referred to as "capers," can be pickled and used in salads or as a flavorful topping for various dishes. Be creative in the kitchen and explore different ways to incorporate nasturtiums into your culinary repertoire.

How To Grow, Harvest and Store Peppers [Guide]

Peppers are a vibrant and versatile addition to any garden, offering a spectrum of colors, flavors, and heat levels to elevate your culinary creations. Whether you prefer sweet bell peppers, spicy jalapeños, or exotic chili varieties, growing peppers in your own garden allows you to enjoy the freshest and most flavorful harvest. In this comprehensive guide, we will delve into the world of pepper cultivation, covering everything from choosing the right varieties to nurturing your plants and maximizing your pepper yield.

The Pepper Family: Exploring Pepper Varieties

Peppers come in a wide range of varieties, each with its own unique characteristics and flavors:

Sweet Bell Pepper Varieties

California Wonder

• Color: Initially green, maturing to a vibrant red.

• Size: Large and blocky, typically 4-5 inches in length and width.

• Flavor: Sweet and crisp, with a mild and pleasant taste. California Wonder is a classic bell pepper variety and is well-suited for stuffing, grilling, or using fresh in salads.

Golden California Wonder

• Color: Bright golden yellow when ripe.

• Size: Similar to the California Wonder, large and blocky, around 4-5 inches in length and width.

• Flavor: Sweet and slightly fruity, with a milder taste compared to red bell peppers. Golden California Wonder adds a vibrant splash of color to dishes and is excellent for fresh eating, roasting, or sautéing.

Chocolate Beauty

• Color: Deep, rich chocolate-brown when fully mature.

• Size: Large and blocky, similar in size to other bell pepper varieties.

• Flavor: Sweet, with a slightly smoky and rich flavor profile. Chocolate Beauty peppers are great for adding depth and complexity to dishes, especially when roasted or used in savory sauces.

Chili Pepper Varieties

Jalapeño Pepper

• Color: Green when immature, turning red as it ripens.

• Size: Medium-sized, usually 2-3 inches in length.

• Flavor: Moderately spicy, with a distinctive heat and a hint of earthy and slightly sweet undertones. Jalapeños are versatile and commonly used in various cuisines.

Habanero Pepper

• Color: Ranges from green to vibrant orange when fully ripe.

• Size: Small to medium, typically 1-2 inches in length.

• Flavor: Intensely hot and fruity, with a tropical flavor profile. Habaneros are among the hottest chili peppers, delivering a fiery kick to dishes.

Exotic Pepper Varieties

Poblano Pepper

• Color: Dark green when immature, turning dark reddish-brown when fully ripe.

• Size: Large and heart-shaped, averaging around 4-5 inches in length.

• Flavor: Mild to medium heat, with a rich, earthy, and slightly smoky taste. Poblanos are commonly used in Mexican cuisine, particularly for stuffing and roasting.

Banana Pepper

• Color: Yellow when fully ripe, but can be harvested while still green.

• Size: Long and slender, typically 6-8 inches in length.

• Flavor: Mild and tangy, with a subtle sweetness. Banana peppers are great for pickling, adding a tangy crunch to sandwiches and salads.

Shishito Pepper

• Color: Bright green when immature, turning red as it ripens.

• Size: Small and slender, typically 3-4 inches in length.

• Flavor: Mild to medium heat, with a smoky and slightly sweet taste. Shishito peppers are often enjoyed blistered or grilled as a popular appetizer or side dish in Japanese cuisine.

How To Grow Peppers in Your Garden

To successfully grow peppers, it's important to understand their ideal growing conditions. Peppers thrive in full sun, requiring at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Warm temperatures between 70-85°F (21-29°C) are ideal for pepper growth. Well-draining soil with organic matter and a pH level around 6.0-7.0 is best.

Starting Pepper Plants From Seeds

Start pepper seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Transplant seedlings outdoors after the danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up.

Starting pepper plants from seeds using heat mats can greatly improve the germination rate and early growth. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Gather your supplies. You’ll need pepper seeds, seed-starting trays or pots with drainage holes, seed-starting mix or a well-draining soil mix, a heat mat specifically designed for seed germination and a clear plastic dome or plastic wrap to cover the trays.

Fill the trays with the seed-starting mix, leaving a small gap at the top for watering. Moisten the soil evenly, ensuring it is thoroughly damp but not waterlogged.

Read the seed packet instructions for specific sowing depth and spacing recommendations. Make small holes in the soil using a pencil or your finger. Place one or two pepper seeds in each hole and cover them gently with soil. Label the trays to keep track of the pepper varieties.

Place the heat mat on a stable, level surface. Plug in the mat and set the temperature according to the seed packet instructions or general guidelines for pepper seeds (usually around 75-85°F or 24-29°C). Ensure the mat is large enough to accommodate your trays. Cover the trays with a clear plastic dome or plastic wrap to create a mini-greenhouse effect and retain moisture.

Check the trays regularly to ensure the soil remains evenly moist, but avoid overwatering to prevent damping off. Keep an eye on the temperature and adjust it as necessary to maintain the recommended range. Monitor the seeds for germination, which typically occurs within 7-14 days, depending on the pepper variety.

Once the seedlings emerge, remove the plastic dome or wrap to promote airflow and prevent excessive humidity. Gradually reduce the heat mat temperature by a few degrees every few days and continue providing sufficient light, either from natural sunlight or using grow lights, to help the seedlings thrive.

When the seedlings have developed their first true leaves and are large enough to handle, transplant them into larger pots or containers. As the last frost date approaches, gradually acclimate the seedlings to outdoor conditions by placing them outside for increasing periods each day. This process is called hardening off.

Starting pepper plants from seeds using heat mats offers a controlled and optimal environment for germination, ensuring a higher success rate.

Caring for Pepper Plants

It’s important to provide adequate watering and fertilization. Water pepper plants deeply and infrequently to encourage deep root growth. Apply balanced fertilizer during planting and provide periodic feedings throughout the growing season.

Staking and Supporting Pepper Plants

Tall or heavy-bearing pepper varieties may require staking or supporting to prevent plant damage and ensure proper growth. By staking your pepper plants, you provide them with the necessary support to thrive and maximize their yield. It also makes it easier to care for the plants, allows better air circulation, and reduces the risk of disease. With proper staking and regular maintenance, your pepper plants will grow upright, produce abundant fruit, and bring you a bountiful harvest. Choose sturdy stakes or supports that are at least 3 to 4 feet tall and can withstand outdoor conditions. Bamboo stakes, metal stakes, or tomato cages are commonly used options. It's best to stake your pepper plants early in the growing season when they are still young and can be easily trained. Aim to stake them when they are around 6 to 8 inches tall. Insert the stakes into the ground near each pepper plant, ensuring they are positioned a few inches away from the main stem to avoid damaging the roots. Ideally, place the stakes on the side opposite to the prevailing wind direction.

Gently push the stakes into the ground until they are firmly anchored, ensuring they penetrate at least 6 to 8 inches deep for stability. If using tomato cages, position them over the pepper plants and secure them firmly. As the pepper plants grow, loosely tie the main stem to the stake using soft plant ties, twine, or fabric strips. Make sure the ties are not too tight to allow for natural growth and prevent damage to the stem. Regularly inspect the plants and adjust the ties as needed. Ensure the ties are not cutting into the stems, and provide enough slack to accommodate the plant's growth.

Growing Healthy Pepper Plants

To maintain healthy pepper plants, consider the following practices:

Pruning pepper plants: Remove lower leaves and branches to improve air circulation. Some gardeners recommend pinching off the growing tips to encourage bushier growth, but there is no evidence that this has the desired effect.

Managing Pests: Pepper plants are susceptible to various pests that can damage foliage, affect fruit development, and weaken the overall health of the plant. Here are some common pepper plant pests you may encounter:

Aphids: Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that cluster on the undersides of leaves and stems. They suck plant sap, causing distorted growth, yellowing leaves, and stunted plants. To control aphids, try spraying a mixture of water and mild soap or use organic insecticidal soap. Beneficial insects like ladybugs can also help control aphid populations.

Pepper Weevils: Pepper weevils are small beetles that attack the fruit of pepper plants. They leave small, pin-sized holes in the peppers and cause damage to the seeds. The best control method is to practice good garden hygiene by promptly removing infested fruits and disposing of them properly.

Spider Mites: Spider mites are tiny pests that can be difficult to see with the naked eye. They feed on plant cells, causing leaves to turn yellow, appear stippled, and eventually dry out. Regularly misting the leaves with water and using insecticidal soap or neem oil can help control spider mites. Additionally, maintaining proper humidity levels in the growing area can discourage their growth.

Whiteflies: Whiteflies are small, white insects that cluster on the undersides of leaves. They suck plant sap and excrete honeydew, leading to yellowing leaves, stunted growth, and sooty mold development. Introduce natural predators like parasitic wasps or use yellow sticky traps to catch and control whiteflies.

Thrips: Thrips are slender, winged insects that feed on plant tissue by scraping the surface and sucking the sap. They cause silvery streaks on leaves, deformed growth, and browning of flower petals. Regularly spraying the plants with water and using yellow or blue sticky traps can help control thrips.

Slugs and Snails: Slugs and snails are common garden pests that feed on the leaves and fruit of pepper plants. They leave irregular holes in the leaves and may cause significant damage to young plants. Handpicking, using traps, or creating barriers with copper tape or diatomaceous earth around the plants can help control slugs and snails.

Maximizing Pepper Yield and Quality

To ensure abundant and high-quality pepper harvests, provide consistent watering and avoid water stress to promote flower development. Encourage pollination by attracting beneficial pollinators to your garden. Harvest peppers promptly to encourage continuous fruit production. Use sharp shears or a knife to cut the peppers from the plant.

Storing and Preserving Peppers: Store fresh peppers in a cool, dry place or in the refrigerator to extend their shelf life. Consider freezing, drying, or pickling peppers for long-term preservation.

Growing peppers in your garden is a rewarding experience that allows you to enjoy a diverse range of flavors, from sweet to spicy. By understanding the different pepper varieties, providing optimal growing conditions, and implementing proper care and maintenance techniques, you can cultivate healthy and productive pepper plants. From planting seeds to nurturing the plants, and from harvesting the fruits to preserving them, your pepper-growing journey is filled with possibilities for culinary creativity and garden-to-table enjoyment. So, roll up your sleeves, prepare your garden beds, and embark on a pepper-growing adventure that will spice up your meals!

How To Grow, Harvest and Store Potatoes [Guide]

Potatoes, a staple and versatile vegetable, have long been cherished for their unique flavors and culinary versatility. From crispy French fries to creamy mashed potatoes and hearty potato soups, this humble tuber offers endless possibilities in the kitchen. Not only are potatoes delicious, but they also provide essential nutrients such as carbohydrates, dietary fiber, vitamin C, and potassium.

There's nothing quite like the joy of digging up your own fresh potatoes, knowing that you played a part in their growth from seed to harvest. By cultivating your own potatoes, you have complete control over the variety you grow, allowing you to explore different flavors and textures that may not be available in stores.

Growing your own potatoes provides a deeper understanding of the food system and a greater appreciation for the effort and care required to produce these nutritious tubers. It allows you to reconnect with nature and experience the joy of nurturing a plant from seed to maturity.

Not only do homegrown potatoes provide a rewarding gardening experience, but they also offer the added benefit of being free from harmful pesticides and chemicals that can be present in commercially grown potatoes. You have control over the cultivation process, allowing you to adopt organic practices and ensure the highest quality and health benefits for you and your family.

Whether you have a spacious backyard or limited space on a balcony or patio, potatoes can be grown in containers or traditional garden beds, making them accessible to gardeners of all levels.

What Kind Of Potatoes Can You Grow?

When it comes to choosing potato varieties, there are numerous options available, each with its own unique characteristics and culinary applications.

Russet potatoes are known for their rough, netted brown skin and white flesh. They have a starchy texture and a slightly mealy consistency, making them perfect for baking, mashing, and frying. Russets are often favored for their ability to yield crispy and fluffy French fries, as well as light and airy mashed potatoes. Their neutral flavor allows them to absorb seasonings and spices, making them versatile in various recipes.

Yukon Gold potatoes are prized for their smooth, golden-yellow skin and vibrant yellow flesh. They have a creamy and buttery texture that holds up well when boiled or roasted, making them ideal for dishes like creamy mashed potatoes, roasted potatoes, and potato salads. Yukon Golds have a rich, subtly sweet flavor that adds depth to any dish. Their thin skins are tender and can be left on for added texture and nutrients.

Red Pontiac potatoes feature a vibrant red skin and crisp, white flesh. They have a waxy texture and hold their shape well when boiled or roasted, making them great for potato salads, roasted vegetables, and soups. Red Pontiacs have a slightly sweet and earthy flavor that adds a delightful taste to any dish. Their attractive red skin also adds visual appeal when used in recipes that showcase the vibrant colors of the ingredients.

Each of these potato varieties has its own suitability for different culinary applications. Russet potatoes are the go-to choice for baking due to their high starch content and fluffy texture when cooked. Their thick skin helps retain moisture, resulting in a crispy exterior and light, tender interior. Yukon Gold and Red Pontiac potatoes are excellent for boiling because of their waxy texture. They hold their shape well during cooking and maintain a creamy consistency, making them ideal for potato salads, stews, or any recipe that requires boiled potatoes. Russet potatoes are often the preferred choice for frying, whether it's for making French fries or potato chips. Their high starch content and low moisture content allow them to achieve a crispy exterior and a soft, fluffy interior when fried.

Where to Plant Potatoes

Potatoes thrive in full sun exposure, so it is essential to choose a growing site that receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. This ensures optimal growth and encourages the development of healthy foliage and tubers. Adequate sunlight also helps prevent diseases and promotes good air circulation around the plants.

Soil preparation plays a crucial role in the successful growth of potatoes. Start by testing the soil pH using a soil testing kit, aiming for a slightly acidic to neutral range between 5.8 and 6.5. Adjust the pH if necessary by adding lime to raise it or sulfur to lower it. This helps create a favorable environment for nutrient uptake and minimizes the risk of nutrient deficiencies or toxicities.

In addition to pH adjustments, it's important to ensure that the soil is well-draining and loose. Potatoes prefer fluffy, loamy soil that allows for good drainage and root penetration. If your soil is heavy or compacted, incorporate organic matter such as compost, well-rotted manure, or peat moss to improve its texture and drainage capabilities. Organic matter also enriches the soil with nutrients, enhances water retention, and promotes beneficial microbial activity.

Potatoes need enough room to grow and spread their foliage without overcrowding. Adequate spacing allows for good air circulation and reduces the risk of diseases, especially those that thrive in damp and crowded conditions.

Select an area that is free from large trees or structures that may cast excessive shade over the potato plants. While some shade during the hottest part of the day can be beneficial, too much shade can hinder growth and reduce yield. Aim for a location where the potato plants will receive ample sunlight throughout the day.

Growing Seed Potatoes VS Grocery Store Potatoes

When starting potatoes, there are two main methods: using certified seed potatoes or sprouting potatoes from the grocery store. Certified seed potatoes are specially grown and certified disease-free, ensuring a higher chance of healthy and productive plants. On the other hand, sprouting potatoes from the grocery store can be a cost-effective option, but they may carry a higher risk of diseases and may not produce consistent results. Starting potatoes from certified seed potatoes is the recommended method for optimal results.

Before planting, you will need to "chit" the seed potatoes. Chitting refers to the process of encouraging the potatoes to sprout before planting. Arrange your seed potatoes in a single layer with the eyes facing upward. Allow the seed potatoes to sprout for a few weeks. During this time, small sprouts or "chits" will emerge from the eyes of the potatoes. Once the sprouts are about one inch long and you are ready to plant, cut any larger seed potatoes into roughly two inch chunks and allow the cuts to heal over and dry out for 24-48 hours to reduce the risk of rot.

Prepare the soil by removing any weeds and loosening it with a garden fork or tiller. Incorporate organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to enrich the soil. Dig a trench or individual holes for planting. The depth will depend on the size of the seed potatoes, but a general guideline is around 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) deep. Place the seed potatoes in the trench or holes, sprouts facing upward, with a spacing of about 12 to 15 inches (30 to 38 cm) between each potato. Ensure that the sprouts are positioned upward and not buried too deep.

Cover the potatoes with soil, leaving a small mound or ridge above the ground. As the plants grow, you can gradually mound soil around the stems to encourage more tuber development. Hilling is not necessary for determinate varieties of potatoes.

Sprouting grocery store potatoes can be an alternative if certified seed potatoes are not readily available. However, it's important to note that grocery store potatoes may carry diseases or have been treated with growth inhibitors. If you choose this method, select healthy, organic potatoes from the grocery store. Avoid potatoes that are sprouting excessively or showing signs of decay or disease. Place the potatoes in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area with temperatures around 50 to 60°F (10 to 15°C). This will initiate the sprouting process. Allow the potatoes to sprout for several weeks until the sprouts are about 1 inch (2.5 cm) long. Check the potatoes regularly and discard any that show signs of rot or disease. Once the sprouts have reached the desired length, follow the planting steps outlined above for certified seed potatoes, including preparing the soil, digging trenches or holes, and planting the sprouted potatoes with the sprouts facing upward.

Why Should You Hill Potatoes?

Hilling is an important technique in potato cultivation that involves gradually covering the emerging plants with soil. Hilling encourages tuber development - by covering the lower stems and lower leaves with soil, the plant is stimulated to produce additional underground stems and tubers. This increases the yield of the potato crop. Furthermore, exposing the tubers to sunlight can cause them to turn green, indicating the presence of solanine, a toxic compound. Hilling helps prevent exposure to sunlight, ensuring the potatoes remain healthy and safe for consumption.

Here’s how to hill potatoes

Once the potato plants have emerged and reached a height of about 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm), carefully mound soil around the base of the plants, covering the lower stems and lower leaves. Leave a small portion of the top foliage exposed. This ensures that the plant can still carry out photosynthesis and continue growing. Repeat the hilling process every few weeks as the plants continue to grow. By the end of the season, the mounded soil can reach a height of 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) above the original ground level.

Potato Plant Pests

Colorado potato beetles: These beetles are one of the most destructive pests of potatoes. Both the adult beetles and their larvae feed on potato foliage, causing significant damage if left unchecked.

Aphids: Aphids are small, sap-sucking insects that can infest potato plants. They reproduce rapidly and can cause distortion and stunted growth in the leaves. Aphids also secrete a sticky substance called honeydew, which can attract ants and promote the growth of sooty mold.

Potato tuber moths: These pests primarily target the tubers, causing damage by tunneling into the potatoes and rendering them unmarketable or unfit for consumption.

To prevent pests on your potatoes, inspect the plants regularly and manually remove pests such as Colorado potato beetles and their larvae. Drop them into a bucket of soapy water to prevent them from returning to the plants. Intercropping potatoes with repellent plants such as marigolds, tansy, or coriander can help deter pests. These companion plants emit natural compounds that repel insects.

Potato Plant Diseases

Late blight: Late blight is a devastating fungal disease that affects the foliage and tubers of potatoes. It thrives in cool, moist conditions and can spread rapidly, causing leaf lesions and rotting of the tubers.

Potato scab: Potato scab is a bacterial disease that results in rough, scaly patches on the potato tubers. It does not typically affect the edibility of the potatoes but can make them less appealing.

To prevent potato diseases, avoid planting potatoes or other related crops (such as tomatoes or peppers) in the same location year after year. Rotate potatoes with unrelated crops to disrupt the life cycle of pests and diseases. Remove and destroy any diseased plant material to prevent the spread of diseases. This includes removing infected foliage or tubers and properly disposing of them. Using certified disease-free seed potatoes can help reduce the risk of introducing diseases into your garden. Proper spacing between plants and removing weeds or excess vegetation around the potato patch promotes air circulation, which can help reduce humidity and prevent disease development.

How to Harvest Potatoes

When it comes to harvesting potatoes, it's important to wait until the plants have reached maturity. Signs of maturity include the yellowing and dying back of the foliage. This indicates that the potatoes have stopped growing and are ready to be harvested.

To harvest your potatoes, start by gently digging around the base of the plants with a garden fork or shovel, taking care not to pierce or cut the potatoes. Lift the plants out of the ground, shaking off excess soil or gently brushing it off the tubers.

How to Cure Potatoes

Curing potatoes after harvesting is an important step to toughen their skins and improve their storage capabilities. To cure potatoes, lay them out in a single layer in a cool, well-ventilated area for about two weeks. This allows the skins to thicken and any minor injuries to heal, reducing the risk of rot during storage.

How to Store Potatoes

Store potatoes in a cool, dark location with a temperature of around 45-50°F (7-10°C). Avoid exposure to sunlight as it can cause the potatoes to turn green and develop a bitter taste. If available, create a root cellar-like environment by storing potatoes in a cool, humid place with good airflow. Ideal conditions include a temperature range of 32-40°F (0-4°C) and humidity levels of 90-95%. This helps to prolong their storage life. Place potatoes in paper or burlap sacks that allow for airflow while blocking out light. Avoid using plastic bags, as they can trap moisture and promote rotting. Regularly inspect stored potatoes for signs of spoilage, such as soft spots, mold, or sprouting. Remove any spoiled potatoes promptly to prevent the spread of rot to the rest of the stored tubers.

Growing your own potatoes can be a rewarding experience. From choosing the right varieties to harvesting and storing them properly, you can enjoy the satisfaction of homegrown potatoes that are versatile in the kitchen and packed with flavor. So why not start your own potato garden, experiment with different varieties, and savor the delicious flavors and nutritional benefits that homegrown potatoes bring to your meals? Happy potato growing!

How To Grow Squash In The Garden: Everything You Need To Know [Guide]

Squash is a versatile and nutritious vegetable that comes in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors. From the delicate and tender zucchini to the rich and sweet butternut squash, there is a squash variety to suit every palate. Squash is not only delicious but also packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and dietary fiber, making it a healthy addition to any diet. Its vibrant colors and unique textures make it a visually appealing ingredient that can elevate any dish. Whether you're looking to make comforting soups, hearty stews, vibrant salads, or even sweet desserts, squash can be your go-to ingredient.

Growing squash allows you to explore a wide range of varieties that may not be readily available in stores. You can experiment with heirloom or lesser-known varieties, each offering unique flavors and characteristics. This opens up a world of culinary possibilities, as you can tailor your dishes to your preferences and discover new and exciting flavor profiles.

What Kinds of Squash Can You Grow?

Zucchini is a summer squash with a vibrant green color and a smooth texture. It has a mild and delicate flavor, making it a versatile ingredient that can be used in both savory and sweet dishes. Its tender flesh is perfect for grilling, roasting, sautéing, or even spiralizing into zucchini noodles for a healthy pasta alternative.

Butternut squash is a winter squash with a distinct bell-like shape and a rich, sweet flavor. Its flesh is smooth and creamy, making it ideal for roasting, pureeing into soups, or incorporating into casseroles and gratins. The vibrant orange color of butternut squash adds a visually appealing element to any dish.

Acorn squash is another popular winter squash variety, characterized by its small size and distinctive ribbed skin. It has a slightly sweet and nutty flavor, with a tender and creamy texture. Acorn squash is often halved and roasted, and its hollow shape makes it perfect for stuffing with savory fillings such as grains, vegetables, or cheese.

Spaghetti squash is a unique variety that, when cooked, yields long strands of flesh that resemble spaghetti noodles. It has a mild and slightly sweet flavor, making it a versatile substitute for pasta in various dishes. Spaghetti squash can be roasted and then scraped with a fork to create "spaghetti" strands, which can be paired with sauces, used in casseroles, or even enjoyed as a low-carb side dish.

Each squash variety mentioned above has its own suitability for different culinary applications. Zucchini's mild flavor and tender texture make it a great choice for grilling, sautéing, or adding to stir-fries. It can also be used in baking, where its moisture content can contribute to moist and flavorful breads and cakes.

Butternut squash's sweet and creamy flesh is perfect for roasting, which brings out its natural caramelized flavors. It can be pureed to create silky soups or used in casseroles and side dishes. Its versatility also extends to sweet preparations, as butternut squash can be used in pies, muffins, and other desserts.

Acorn squash's hollow shape and slightly sweet flavor make it an excellent vessel for stuffing. The flesh becomes tender when roasted, providing a flavorful base for various fillings. It can also be sliced and roasted to be enjoyed as a standalone side dish or incorporated into salads.

Spaghetti squash's unique characteristic of turning into noodle-like strands when cooked makes it a popular choice for those seeking a low-carb or gluten-free alternative to pasta. The mild flavor of spaghetti squash allows it to pair well with a variety of sauces and toppings, making it a versatile ingredient in pasta dishes.

Where Should You Plant Squash?

Squash plants thrive in full sun, so it is essential to select a growing site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight is crucial for the growth and development of squash plants, as it helps them produce ample foliage and ensures optimal fruiting. Therefore, choose a location in your garden that is not shaded by trees, buildings, or other structures.

In addition to sunlight, squash plants require well-draining soil. They prefer soil that is loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter. Well-draining soil prevents waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other diseases. To improve drainage, you can amend heavy clay soil with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. This helps create a looser soil structure, allowing water to flow through and preventing excess moisture retention around the plant's roots.

Squash plants can spread and occupy a significant area, so ensure that you have sufficient space for the plants to grow and sprawl without overcrowding other crops or plants. Adequate spacing allows for good air circulation and helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

Starting Squash Plants from Seed

This method involves directly sowing squash seeds into the soil or starting them indoors and later transplanting the seedlings. Sowing seeds directly in the garden is a simple and cost-effective approach. On the other hand, starting seeds indoors allows for earlier planting and a head start on the growing season.

Squash seeds should be planted when the soil has warmed up and all chances of frost have passed. This is typically in spring when the soil temperature reaches around 60°F (15°C) or higher. Ensure that the soil is well-draining and enriched with organic matter. Remove any weeds or debris and break up clumps of soil. Plant squash seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the soil. Space the seeds 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart in rows, or follow the spacing guidelines specific to the variety you are planting. You may also plant three seeds in a hill formation. After planting the seeds, thoroughly water the area to ensure good seed-to-soil contact and proper moisture for germination. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged as the seeds germinate and the seedlings emerge. Once the seedlings have emerged and developed their first set of true leaves, thin them out if they are planted too closely together. Thin the seedlings to the desired spacing, typically leaving the healthiest and strongest ones.

Using seedlings from a nursery offers the advantage of a shortened time to harvest, as the plants are already established. It can be particularly beneficial in areas with a shorter growing season or for gardeners who prefer a more convenient option. Seedlings provide a head start in the growing process, allowing you to harvest squash earlier than if you were to start from seeds, but buying seedlings can be more expensive compared to starting from seeds, and seedlings may experience some level of transplant shock when moved from the controlled environment of the nursery to your garden. This shock can temporarily slow down growth and require extra care during the transition.

How to Grow Squash Vertically

Vining squashes, such as some varieties of zucchini or winter squash, tend to spread out and take up a lot of garden space. By providing support or trellises, you can train the vines to grow vertically, saving valuable space in your garden. When vining squash plants are trained upwards, they allow for better airflow around the foliage, reducing the chances of diseases caused by excessive moisture and promoting overall plant health. Growing vining squash vertically makes it easier to locate and harvest the fruits. The squash hangs down from the trellis, making them more visible and accessible.

To provide support for vining squash, you can use trellises, stakes, or cages. Install the support structure at the time of planting or when the plants are young to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the vines grow, gently train them to climb the support structure, securing them with garden ties or soft twine if needed. Be sure to choose sturdy supports that can handle the weight of the developing fruits.

Watering Squash Plants

Squash plants have high water needs, and lack of moisture can lead to stunted growth and poor fruit development. Aim to provide about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Fluctuating moisture levels can cause stress to the plants and lead to issues like blossom end rot or fruit cracking. Water the plants deeply, ensuring the moisture reaches the root zone. Mulching around the plants can help retain soil moisture and reduce water evaporation.

Mulching Squash Plants

A layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture by reducing water evaporation. This is especially important during hot and dry periods when water availability is crucial for healthy plant growth. Mulch acts as a natural weed barrier, preventing weed growth and competition with squash plants for nutrients and water. This reduces the need for frequent weeding, saving time and effort. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by keeping it cooler in hot summer months and providing insulation during cooler periods. This creates an ideal environment for root development and overall plant growth.

Squash Pests and Diseases

Squash bugs: These insects feed on the leaves, stems, and fruits of squash plants, causing wilting, yellowing, and decline. They can be identified by their flat, shield-shaped bodies and dark brown or gray color.

Squash vine borers: The larvae of these pests bore into the stems of squash plants, causing wilting, dieback, and eventual plant death. Adult vine borers are clear-winged moths.

Cucumber beetles: These beetles can transmit diseases and damage leaves, flowers, and fruits of squash plants. They are typically yellowish-green with black stripes or spots.

Organic pest control methods can help manage squash pests effectively while minimizing the use of synthetic pesticides. Consider the following approaches:

Row covers: Use lightweight fabric row covers to physically exclude pests from reaching the plants. Cover the plants soon after planting and secure the edges to prevent pests from entering.

Beneficial insects: Encourage the presence of natural predators and beneficial insects in your garden, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps. These insects prey on squash pests and help control their populations.

Squash plants are susceptible to several diseases that can affect their overall health and productivity. Here are some common diseases that may affect squash:

Powdery mildew: This fungal disease appears as a white, powdery coating on the leaves, stems, and fruits of squash plants. It can cause leaf yellowing, stunting, and reduced fruit production.

Bacterial wilt: This disease is caused by bacteria that clog the water-conducting tissues of squash plants, leading to wilting and eventual death. It is often transmitted by cucumber beetles.

To prevent and manage squash diseases, consider the following measures:

Crop rotation: Avoid planting squash in the same area of the garden year after year. Rotate your crops to different locations to reduce the buildup of disease-causing pathogens in the soil.

Proper sanitation: Remove and destroy any infected plant debris to prevent the spread of diseases. This includes removing and disposing of infected plant parts, fallen leaves, and fruits.

Disease-resistant varieties: Select squash varieties that have resistance or tolerance to common diseases prevalent in your area. This can help reduce the risk of infection and improve plant health.

How to Harvest Squash

When it comes to harvesting squash, there are a few signs that indicate the fruits are mature and ready to be picked. Look for squash with firm skin and vibrant color. Depending on the variety, the skin may be tough and resistant to scratching or denting. Additionally, the stem connecting the squash to the vine should be dry and starting to wither.

To harvest squash properly, use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a small stem attached. Avoid pulling or twisting the squash, as this can damage the plant and reduce the quality of the fruit. Handle the squash with care to prevent bruising or puncturing.

How to Cure Squash

Curing is particularly important for certain squash varieties, such as winter squash. After harvest, allow these varieties to cure in a warm and well-ventilated area for a period of time, typically about 1 to 2 weeks. This process toughens the skin, enhances flavor, and extends their storage life. During curing, the squash should be kept in a single layer, allowing air circulation around each fruit.

How to Store Squash

Storing squash properly is essential to maintain their quality and extend their shelf life. For summer squash and other soft-skinned varieties, it is best to use them within a few days of harvest. Store them in a cool and dry place, such as the refrigerator's vegetable crisper, to slow down deterioration. Winter squash, on the other hand, can be stored for several months when stored correctly. Keep them in a cool (50-55°F or 10-13°C), dry, and well-ventilated area. Avoid storing winter squash near fruits that produce ethylene gas, such as apples, as this can cause premature ripening and spoilage.

Growing your own squash can be a rewarding experience that provides you with fresh, flavorful, and nutritious produce. By following proper harvesting and storage techniques, you can enjoy your homegrown squash for an extended period, adding versatility and delicious flavors to your meals. Start your own squash garden, explore different varieties, and savor the many culinary possibilities that squash has to offer.

Keeping Pests at Bay: 7 Effective and Eco-Friendly Ways to Control Garden Pests

First things first: this is going to be an unpopular opinion, but pests in your garden aren’t always a bad thing. Pests like to frequent areas that support a wide variety of plant life - so if your garden doesn’t have pests, you’re probably not a part of the ecosystem, which should always be your goal. But we all know that once these insects and animals have discovered your garden, they can be difficult to manage. Your garden can quickly become a one-stop grocery shop for all your wildlife neighbors. And while I’m all for sharing the bounty, these critters often take more than their fair share.

I have lost entire crops to squash bugs and cabbage moths, squishing potato beetles is not my favorite pastime and the near-surgical process of extracting squash bugs from the vine left my stomach turning.

I’d much rather prevent pests from ballooning out of control in the first place than be forced to take matters into my own hands and cause a loss of life - no matter how small. The reality is that every living thing needs to eat. Who am I to decide that these small creatures should live or die? But when you’ve put hours of time and effort into growing a garden, it can be frustrating when pests and diseases start attacking your plants. The good news is that there are many natural ways to control garden pests without chemicals that are harmful to our health and the environment.

How do pests damage vegetable gardens?

The effects of pests in the garden are endless. For example, caterpillars, grasshoppers, and beetles can chew on leaves, causing visible holes and damage to the plant's structure.

Aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies can suck sap from plant stems and leaves, causing them to wilt and potentially die.

Fruit flies and corn borers can bore into fruits and vegetables, causing them to rot or become infested with larvae.

Mosquitoes and ticks can spread diseases to plants, such as viruses and bacteria that can cause wilting, yellowing, and stunted growth.

Moles and voles can dig up roots, causing damage to the plant's underground structure and potentially killing the plant.

Cutworms and wireworms can eat plant roots, causing the plant to wilt and potentially die.

Grubs and nematodes can tunnel in soil, damaging the plant's root system and preventing it from absorbing nutrients and water properly.

Now I know this sounds like a spooky horror story where your garden is going to be teeming with unfriendly visitors, but the reality is your individual microclimate will dictate which of these unpleasant companions you’ll find. You’ll most likely end up dealing with 1-5 of these in your backyard garden each year and get a sense for what your area is most susceptible to. But just to give you a head start, it’s a good idea to read up on some of the various methods you can employ to prevent garden damage caused by pests.

Why shouldn’t you use pesticides in your vegetable garden?

Pesticides can be harmful to human health if they are ingested or come into contact with the skin. Exposure to pesticides has been linked to cancer, birth defects, and other health problems. They can have negative impacts on the environment, including contaminating soil and water, killing beneficial insects and wildlife, and contributing to the development of pesticide-resistant pests. Pesticides can kill beneficial soil organisms, such as earthworms and microorganisms, which play a vital role in maintaining soil fertility and health, as well as harm bees and other pollinators such as birds, which are essential for the production of many fruits and vegetables.

Insects

My two main methods of preventing insect damage in the garden are companion planting and birds. Companion planting involves growing certain plants that have compounds which are known to deter pests. Here’s a few plants to consider:

• Basil: May repel flies, mosquitoes, and aphids

• Chrysanthemums: Contain a natural insecticide called pyrethrum, which can repel and kill a variety of insects, including ants, roaches, and spider mites.

• Lavender: Has a strong fragrance that can repel mosquitoes, flies, and moths.

• Marigolds: Contain a natural insecticide called pyrethrin, which can repel mosquitoes, flies, and other insects.

• Mint: Has a strong scent that can repel ants, flies, and mosquitoes.

• Rosemary: Has a strong scent that can repel mosquitoes and other insects.

Bird “Strike zone”

Birds can be a natural and effective way to reduce bugs in the garden. Many bird species, including chickadees, nuthatches, and titmice, are known for their insect-eating habits and can help control the populations of harmful bugs in the garden. Birds can consume large numbers of pests in a single day. For example, chickadees can eat up to 500 insects per day. Birds can help control the spread of pests, such as aphids and caterpillars, by eating them before they can reproduce and lay eggs. Some bird species, such as hummingbirds, can also help pollinate plants while they feed on nectar, leading to better fruit and vegetable yields.

To attract birds to your garden, you can provide food, water, and shelter. Planting native plants that produce berries or seeds can provide a food source, while birdhouses, birdbaths, and nesting boxes can provide shelter and water. By encouraging birds to visit your garden, you can create a natural and effective pest control system that benefits both your garden and the environment.

How to attract beneficial insects for natural pest control

One more important note: Insects aren’t all bad. Attracting beneficial insects is a natural and effective way to control pest populations in the garden. It is important to encourage these beneficial insects by planting a variety of flowers that bloom at different times and can provide a steady food source and attract a diverse range of beneficial insects. You may also want to provide nesting sites, such as hollow stems or brush piles, that can attract beneficial insects such as native bees and ladybugs, and a water source such as a birdbath or shallow dish. Planting specific plants together can attract beneficial insects and deter harmful pests. For example, planting dill, fennel, or parsley can attract beneficial insects such as hoverflies and lacewings, which prey on aphids.

Rodents

Rodents and deer can decimate an entire garden very quickly. You’ll want to be proactive if you know that you have a large population of these creatures nearby.

Preventing rodent damage in the garden with physical barriers

Using physical barriers, such as mesh screens or fences, can prevent rodents from accessing your garden. This is especially important in the case of deer. Deer are capable of jumping over a six-foot fence, so a fence should be at least eight feet tall. You can also try installing motion-activated sprinklers in your garden, which will spray water when it detects a deer approaching. Try to create movement and sound in the garden that may startle deer away such as scarecrows, loud wind chimes or hanging reflective objects like CDs or aluminum foil to create movement.

Companion planting for pest prevention in the garden

Certain plants are known to repel rodents. Planting these around your garden can help to keep rodents away. You can try growing Mint (including peppermint, spearmint, and pennyroyal), lavender, alliums including garlic and onions, marigolds, daffodils and catnip (which will hopefully attracts your neighborhood cats to the area)

Natural predators: Encouraging natural predators, such as cats, owls, and snakes, can help to keep rodents away. Garden snakes, also known as garter snakes, can be particularly beneficial to your garden ecosystem as they feed on insects and other pests. To encourage garden snakes, create areas where snakes can hide, such as brush piles, rock piles, or old logs. This will give them a safe place to rest and hide from predators. Snakes need water to survive, so provide a shallow water source like a birdbath or small pond. Minimize disturbance in your garden by avoiding heavy foot traffic or loud noises. Snakes need to regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun. Provide a sunny spot in your garden where snakes can bask and warm themselves.

Other garden pest prevention methods

Crop rotation

Crop rotation is an effective method of pest management that involves planting different crops in a specific order or sequence to reduce the buildup of pests in the soil. To use crop rotation to prevent pests in your garden, it’s important to understand the life cycle of pests: Different pests have different life cycles and prefer to feed on certain types of plants. Rotate your crops so that plants from the same family are not planted in the same section of your garden in consecutive years. For example, if you grew tomatoes in a particular bed one year, rotate to a different family the next year, such as peas, beans, or lettuce.

Row covers

Row covers are a physical barrier that can be used to protect plants from pests, while also providing some protection from frost, sun and wind. There are different types of row covers available, including lightweight, medium weight, and heavyweight. Lightweight covers are ideal for pest prevention, while medium and heavyweight covers can also provide some frost protection. Place the row cover over the plants and secure it to the ground with stakes, rocks, or other heavy objects to prevent pests from crawling underneath. It's important to ensure good ventilation under the row cover to prevent the buildup of heat and moisture, which can damage plants or promote the growth of fungal diseases. You can use hoops or other supports to keep the cover from touching the plants.

While row covers can help prevent pests, it's important to monitor for any signs of infestation, such as holes or damage to the plants. Lift the covers periodically to check for pests, and remove any that you find.

Row covers should be removed once the plants have matured and are ready to be harvested or when the weather has warmed up enough that pests are no longer a threat. This will allow the plants to pollinate and grow properly.

Sanitation

Good garden hygiene will go a long way. Remove plant debris and weeds after harvest and before planting a new crop. This will help reduce the risk of pests and diseases overwintering in the soil or on plant debris.

What pests do you have in your garden?