Step-By-Step Tips For Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Using Strawberries [Guide]

Growing strawberries in your backyard is the gateway to gardening. There's nothing quite like the taste of freshly picked strawberries, they just don’t compare to store-bought at all. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through the process of growing strawberries, from choosing the right varieties to harvesting the ripe fruits.

What Kind of Strawberries Should You Grow?

When it comes to strawberries, there are several popular varieties to consider. Each variety has its own unique characteristics, including fruit color, size, shape, and flavor. Some popular varieties include 'Albion,' known for its large, bright red berries with a sweet taste, 'Seascape,' which produces firm and flavorful strawberries, and 'Eversweet,' a variety that lives up to its name with its exceptionally sweet fruits. Additionally, consider the plant size and growth habit of each variety to ensure it fits your available space and gardening preferences.

Albion: Albion strawberries are a favorite among gardeners and berry enthusiasts alike. These large strawberries boast a vibrant bright red color that is visually appealing. When you take a bite, you'll experience a burst of sweetness accompanied by a delightful hint of tartness. With their juicy texture and balanced flavor, Albion strawberries are perfect for enjoying fresh or using in various culinary creations. You can typically harvest Albion strawberries in mid to late season, usually from June to July, depending on your specific growing conditions.

Seascape: If you're looking for a strawberry variety with exceptional flavor, Seascape is an excellent choice. These medium to large strawberries feature a deep red color that is visually enticing. When you taste Seascape strawberries, you'll be treated to a sweet and aromatic flavor that is sure to delight your taste buds. Harvest time for Seascape strawberries typically falls in the early to mid-season, typically from May to June.

Eversweet: True to its name, Eversweet strawberries offer an exceptional level of sweetness. These large, round strawberries exhibit a deep red color that hints at their luscious flavor. With each bite, you'll savor the intense sweetness that sets Eversweet strawberries apart. Their juicy texture further enhances the delightful taste experience. Eversweet strawberries are usually ready for harvest in the mid to late season, typically from June to July.

Jewel: Jewel strawberries are a real gem in the world of strawberries. These large berries showcase a bright red color that catches the eye. When you taste a Jewel strawberry, you'll discover a harmonious blend of sweetness and subtle tanginess. Their refreshing flavor profile makes them a popular choice for eating fresh or incorporating into desserts and other culinary delights. Jewel strawberries are typically ready to be harvested in the early to mid-season, usually from May to June.

Ozark Beauty: Ozark Beauty strawberries offer a delightful combination of visual appeal and taste. These medium to large strawberries exhibit a bright red hue that signifies their ripeness. Their round shape adds to their allure. When you bite into an Ozark Beauty strawberry, you'll be greeted with a burst of sweetness and a juicy texture that is truly satisfying. Ozark Beauty strawberries are typically harvested in the mid-season, usually around June.

Can you grow strawberries from seed?

When it comes to growing strawberries, there are two methods: using strawberry crowns or growing from seed. Growing strawberries from seed is uncommon because it requires more time and care compared to using crowns.

Advantages of Growing Strawberries from Seed

Growing from seed offers a wider range of strawberry varieties to choose from compared to the limited options available as crowns. Seeds are generally less expensive than buying established plants or crowns. Starting strawberries from seed allows you to experience the entire growth process, from germination to harvesting.

How to Grow Strawberries from Seed

Start seeds indoors in seed trays or pots using a seed-starting mix. Maintain proper moisture and temperature for germination. Once the seedlings develop a few true leaves, transplant them into individual pots or a prepared garden bed. Follow the same care and maintenance practices as with strawberry crowns, including proper watering, fertilization, and pest control.

Strawberry Crowns

Strawberry crowns are the small plants that are typically sold in nurseries and garden centers. They consist of the roots and a cluster of leaf stems (known as the crown) from which the strawberry plants will grow.

Advantages of Strawberry Crowns

Using crowns allows you to skip the germination and early growth stages, giving you a head start in the growing process. By purchasing specific strawberry varieties as crowns, you ensure the consistency and traits of the variety you desire. Strawberry crowns usually produce fruit sooner than plants grown from seed, allowing you to enjoy your strawberries earlier.

How to Plant Strawberry Crowns

• Prepare the soil by loosening it and removing any weeds or debris.

• Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and crown of the strawberry plant, making sure the crown is at soil level.

• Space the plants according to the recommended guidelines for the specific variety.

• Water thoroughly after planting to help the crowns establish.

Whether you choose to grow strawberry crowns or grow strawberries from seed depends on your preferences, time availability, and desired variety selection - but I recommend growing strawberries from crowns.

What are bare root strawberries?

Bare root strawberries are strawberry plants that are sold and shipped without soil around their roots. Instead, the roots are typically wrapped in a moisture-retaining material, such as sphagnum moss or peat moss, to keep them hydrated during transportation.

How To Plant Strawberries

Strawberries thrive in well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH ranging from 5.5 to 6.5. Start by preparing the soil before planting your strawberry plants. Remove any weeds and incorporate organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve soil fertility and drainage. Strawberry plants can be propagated using runners or purchased as bare-root plants. Plant them at the recommended spacing and depth, ensuring the crown is level with the soil surface.

Strawberries need full sun exposure to thrive and produce an abundance of fruits. Ensure your strawberry patch receives at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day. Consistent moisture is crucial for strawberry plants, but they don't like soggy roots. Water your strawberries deeply, providing enough moisture to reach the root zone, and allow the top inch of soil to dry out between watering sessions. Applying mulch around the plants helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent direct contact between the fruits and soil.

Taking Care of Strawberry Plants

Regularly monitor your plants for signs of pests or diseases. Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves to promote good airflow and prevent the spread of diseases. Additionally, thinning strawberry runners is crucial to ensure stronger plant development. Pinching off strawberry blossoms during the first year redirects energy towards root growth, resulting in more robust plants and higher yields in subsequent years.

Fertilizing Strawberry Plants

Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are vital nutrients for their growth and fruit development. Organic fertilizers like compost or well-rotted manure are excellent choices for feeding your strawberry plants. Apply fertilizer according to the recommended guidelines and adjust based on soil test results. Consider using a balanced organic fertilizer formulated specifically for strawberries. Remember to follow the manufacturer's instructions and avoid over-fertilizing, as it can lead to excessive leaf growth at the expense of fruit production.

Strawberry Pests and Diseases

Common pests that may affect strawberries include aphids, slugs, and strawberry root weevils. To control pests organically, consider companion planting with beneficial flowers or herbs, using physical barriers like row covers or netting, and introducing beneficial insects like ladybugs or lacewings. Additionally, practicing good garden hygiene, such as removing plant debris and maintaining proper spacing between plants, helps prevent the spread of diseases like gray mold and powdery mildew.

How to stop rabbits from eating strawberry plants in your garden

Rabbits can be notorious garden pests, and their fondness for nibbling on strawberry plants can be frustrating. Here are some effective strategies to help you deal with rabbits eating your strawberry plants:

Create a physical barrier around your strawberry plants to prevent rabbits from accessing them. Use fencing or chicken wire to enclose the strawberry bed, ensuring that the fence extends below ground level to prevent rabbits from burrowing underneath. Make sure the fence is at least two feet high to discourage rabbits from jumping over.

Utilize natural deterrents to make your strawberry plants less appealing to rabbits. Scatter organic materials such as dried blood meal, coffee grounds, or human hair around the plants. The strong scents may deter rabbits from venturing close to your strawberry patch.

Consider using commercial or homemade repellents specifically designed to repel rabbits. These repellents usually contain ingredients with strong scents that rabbits find unpleasant. Apply the repellent on and around the strawberry plants according to the product instructions.

Introduce plants that rabbits find unpalatable or have a repellent effect as companions to your strawberry plants. Some examples include marigolds, garlic, onions, and lavender. The strong scents and tastes of these companion plants may help deter rabbits from approaching your strawberries.

Harvesting and Storing Strawberries

The moment you've been eagerly waiting for has arrived - harvesting your ripe and luscious strawberries! Harvesting strawberries at the right stage of ripeness ensures the best flavor and texture. Strawberries won’t continue to ripen once removed from the plant, so look for fully red berries with a sweet aroma and firmness. Gently pick the strawberries, leaving the stem intact to prevent moisture loss and prolong shelf life. If you have an abundance of strawberries, you can store them in the refrigerator, unwashed, in a single layer to maintain freshness.

Growing your own strawberries is a delightful experience that allows you to savor the incredible flavor of these juicy fruits. With the right varieties, proper care, and attention to detail, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of homegrown strawberries. By following the steps outlined in this comprehensive guide, you'll be well on your way to growing and enjoying your own delicious strawberries. So, grab your gardening tools, find a sunny spot in your yard, and let the strawberry-growing adventure begin!

The 6 Best Garden Shoes for Effortless and Enjoyable Gardening [Roundup]

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Ask gardeners what their favorite shoes to wear in the garden are, and you’ll get a huge array of responses. Many will say that the best way to garden is barefoot, and while there are many benefits to rooting yourself to the soil through your bare feet, there will always be times when a good garden shoe is required to protect our toes from heavy, rough jobs or hot environments. I often go barefoot in the later days of summer when the garden is mostly self-sustaining, but for big garden tasks like moving soil or constructing beds, garden shoes are a necessity.

In this post we will cover my best tips and recommendations for choosing garden shoes that are comfortable and safe, as well as built to last. If you’re wondering what the best shoes for gardening are, look no further!

When choosing shoes to garden in, finding a shoe that is comfortable should be your first consideration - especially if you garden with chronic pain like I do. Uncomfortable shoes can lead to foot pain, blisters, and other problems that could cost you time in the garden. It is important to choose garden shoes that offer good arch support and cushioning. Your garden shoes should also provide good traction to prevent slipping and falling on wet or uneven surfaces, since we often have to garden in all sorts of conditions.

Your garden shoes should also protect your feet from hazards such as sharp tools, thorns, and poisonous plants, which means your one dollar flip flop sandals probably aren’t the best choice for the task.

Garden shoes are often made with durable and waterproof materials that offer protection from all these hazards, like rubber, neoprene or PVC, as they are exposed to water and mud regularly. For heavy duty garden tasks you may want reinforced toes, and thick soles. Garden shoes usually sit higher on your ankle or offer some type of snug fitting liner to keep dirt and rocks from falling in.

The best garden shoes are also built for breathability and durability. Your garden shoes should be breathable to prevent your feet from getting too hot and sweaty, and durable enough to withstand the wear and tear of gardening activities.

When purchasing garden shoes, you should consider the following factors:

• Material: Garden shoes should be made from waterproof and durable materials like rubber, neoprene or PVC, as they are exposed to water and mud regularly.

• Comfort: Look for garden shoes with comfortable insoles and a good arch support that will allow you to stand or walk for longer periods.

• Traction: It is important to have a good grip on the soles of your garden shoes to avoid slipping and falling in wet or slippery conditions.

• Size: Ensure you select the right size for maximum comfort and to avoid blisters or injuries.

• Breathability: Your garden shoes should have adequate ventilation to allow air to circulate around your feet, preventing sweating and odor.

• Style: Consider your style and preference when choosing garden shoes. There are various styles available from clogs, slip-on, to lace-up.

• Purpose: If you plan to use your garden shoes for heavy-duty work, consider getting steel-toed shoes for added protection.

Muckster Low by The Muck Book Company

My own mother’s recommendation are these Muckster ll Women's Rubber Garden Shoes. They will keep you protected from mud and puddles while gardening or doing other outdoor activities. Featuring a lightweight, flexible 4mm neoprene bootie, these 100% waterproof rubber garden shoes are designed to adapt to the movements and contours of your feet while you walk, bend and crouch.

The high-traction outsole makes excellent contact with slick surfaces and it also self-cleans to keep out dirt and debris for better grip. Equipped with an Airmesh lining, these women's garden shoes are breathable for improved comfort in warm weather. These versatile women's rubber shoes are a great choice for gardening, walking the dog and running errands.

• 100% Waterproof

• Full Neoprene Bootie Exposed at Ankle for a Comfortable, Flexible Fit

• Breathable Mesh Sandwich-fabric Lining Improves Air Circulation

• Self Cleaning Rubber Outsole Built for the Lawn and Garden

• bioDEWIX™ Footbed Insert Topcover with NYZM™ for Odor Control and Moisture Management

• Available in: Green

Women's Ankle Height Garden Boots by Hisea

The most popular choice of our community. Hisea offers waterproof, breathable, and comfortable women's ultra-versatile rain and garden shoes. This shoe is fully waterproof, has durable uppers made of natural rubber, and is insulated to keep your feet warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

• 4.5mm neoprene booties give you flexibility and shock absorption; natural rubber layers create extra protection, and waterproof design in any situation. Keeping you dry and providing comfort and support for long days.

• Breathable H-Airmesh Lining allows air to travel throughout the boots, which keeps your feet much drier than normal boots in the market. Comfort rated from 14 °F/-10°C to 86 °F/30 °C. Making these boots best for year-round use.

• Reinforced rubber layers for additional protection to heel and toe. The aggressive anti-slip rubber outsole increases traction. Comfort massage memory foam insoles offer extra arch support, good for all-day long use on your feet.

• Available in: Brown, Camo, Black, Green

Patch Ankle Boots by Bogs Footwear

Available in many fun prints and designs with easy on-off handle cutouts. Bogs is partnering with BLOOM to integrate algae-based EVA footbeds across their entire line. Natural rubber, sustainably harvested in Forest Stewardship Council-approved regions. Rubber factories minimize waste by using as much as 40% post-industrial recycled material.

• 100% Waterproof

• BLOOM eco-friendly, algae-based EVA footbed that helps clean polluted water habitats.

• Built in heel kick for hands free removal

• Crafted with ultra-soft and flexible rubber

• BOGS Max-Wick evaporates sweat to keep feet dry

• DuraFresh natural bio-technology activates to fight odors

• Available in: Many colors and styles

Women's Rugged Wellie Shoes, Slip-On by LLBean

Exceptionally cushioned with rugged traction for wet surfaces, these slip-ons prove you don't need to sacrifice comfort when protecting your feet from rain and mud. LLBean is always a safe bet for comfort and durability.

• Waterproof upper is made of vulcanized rubber.

• Comfortable synthetic knit lining.

• Stretchy goring allows for easy on/off (not waterproof).

• EVA pods in the midsole and forefoot for extra cushioning and comfort.

• Super-thick sock liner for comfort and support.

• Durable VertiGrip rubber outsole for traction on multiple surfaces.

• Available in: Black, Yellow, Green, Blue, Sand

Gardener Clogs by Hunter

A green slip-on shoe handcrafted from waterproof vegan rubber, designed for gardening. Updated with the iconic red box logo, the clog has a flexible natural rubber form and Hunter's signature tread providing grip. Lined with neoprene for breathability and comfort, it protects from the elements as well as supporting the foot. The classic Hunter rain boot you know and love has been reinvented for the garden as an easy to clean clog.

• Certified vegan

• Waterproof

• Handcrafted

• Hunter red box logo

• Natural rubber construction with matte finish

• Neoprene lining

• Signature calendered tread

• Available in: Grey, Green, Black, Clay

Bobbi Ankle Rain Boot by Merry People

The perfect everyday rain boot works hard in the garden too. The Bobbi seamlessly blends fashion and function with natural rubber and a neoprene lining. Our best-selling boots are designed for utmost comfort. Easy to dress up or down, wear from day to night, the Bobbi comes in a range of colors to match your style and individuality.

• Durable chunky tread design for extra traction

• 100% waterproof and tested for sub-freezing temperatures keeping your toes dry and toasty-warm

• Enhanced traction sole tested by Intertek Global testing laboratory

• Flexible neoprene lining making it easy to slip on and off in style

• 100% Vegan, not made from any animal products, or tested on animals

• Arch support for all day comfort

• Available in: Many colors and styles

One last thing: when I asked our Instagram community what shoes they were wearing in the garden, a number of you said cheap tennis shoes. And I totally get this - if you’re on a budget it can be easy to think that it doesn’t make sense to invest in shoes that will just get worn down with all the hard labor of gardening. I think that whether you garden as a hobby or professionally, protecting your feet with the right garden shoes can make all of the difference and allow you to complete all your garden tasks with ease, especially if you are gardening with chronic pain. A good shoe will allow you to stay on your feet for longer, and is possibly the most overlooked way to make gardening with pain more enjoyable.

Sustainability-wise, going for the cheapest option isn’t a great choice either - a new pair of tennis shoes every season that ends up in a landfill is going to do a lot more environmental harm in the long term than one pair that will last you 5-10 years. If budget is a concern, check out secondhand options like Poshmark. I know secondhand shoes can have an ick factor for some, but the great thing about garden shoes is they are often made of easy to clean materials - dunk em in vinegar and water and leave them in the sun and they’ll be good as new.

Investing in high-quality garden shoes will make your gardening experience more comfortable, safe, and enjoyable. What are your favorite shoes to wear in the garden?

Tomato Gardening: Step-by-Step Guide to Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Enjoying Tomatoes

Growing your own tomatoes is a rewarding experience that allows you to enjoy the unparalleled flavor and freshness of homegrown produce. In this comprehensive guide, we will walk you through every step of the process, from selecting the right tomato varieties to harvesting and storing your ripe tomatoes. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, this guide will provide valuable insights on how to successfully grow healthy and abundant tomato plants.

What Tomatoes Should You Grow?

When it comes to growing tomatoes, selecting the right variety will come down to personal preference. Consider how you like to cook and eat tomatoes as well as your growing conditions. Popular varieties such as Beefsteak, Roma, Cherry, and Heirloom tomatoes offer a wide range of flavors, sizes, and colors.

Beefsteak Tomato:

• Fruit Color: Red (also available in yellow and pink varieties)

• Fruit Size: Large, often weighing over a pound

• Fruit Shape: Irregular and beefy, with deep ridges and bulges

• Flavor: Juicy, rich, and sweet with a classic tomato taste

• Plant Size: Indeterminate, reaching heights of 6-10 feet

Roma Tomato:

• Fruit Color: Red (also available in yellow varieties)

• Fruit Size: Medium-sized, typically 2-3 inches in length

• Fruit Shape: Oblong and plum-like, with few seeds and meaty flesh

• Flavor: Mild and slightly tangy, with a dense texture perfect for sauces and pastes

• Plant Size: Determinate or semi-determinate, usually 3-4 feet tall

Cherry Tomato:

• Fruit Color: Red (also available in yellow, orange, and even black varieties)

• Fruit Size: Small and bite-sized, ranging from 1/2 to 1 inch in diameter

• Fruit Shape: Round and often smooth, though some may have a slight pear shape

• Flavor: Bursting with sweetness, tanginess, and a refreshing pop, ideal for salads and snacking

• Plant Size: Indeterminate or semi-determinate, growing between 4-6 feet tall

Brandywine Tomato:

• Fruit Color: Pink (also available in red and yellow varieties)

• Fruit Size: Large and hefty, weighing up to a pound or more

• Fruit Shape: Beefsteak-like, with irregular lobes and a flattened appearance

• Flavor: Intensely sweet and complex, often described as having a rich, old-fashioned tomato taste

• Plant Size: Indeterminate, reaching heights of 5-8 feet

Green Zebra Tomato:

• Fruit Color: Green with yellow stripes when ripe

• Fruit Size: Medium-sized, around 2-3 inches in diameter

• Fruit Shape: Slightly flattened and round, similar to a standard tomato shape

• Flavor: Tangy and slightly tart, with a zingy, citrus-like flavor that adds a unique twist to dishes

• Plant Size: Indeterminate, typically growing to about 5-6 feet tall

These tomato varieties encompass a range of colors, sizes, shapes, and flavors, allowing you to choose the perfect tomatoes for your culinary needs and garden space. Remember to consider your local climate and growing conditions when selecting tomato varieties for optimal success.

What is the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomato varieties?

Determinate and indeterminate are terms used to describe the growth habit and fruiting pattern of tomato plants.

Key Characteristics of Determinate Tomato Plants:

Compact size: Determinate plants have a bushy and more compact growth habit.

Controlled growth: They have a predetermined height, making them suitable for smaller spaces or container gardening.

Fruit ripening: The fruits on determinate plants tend to ripen within a relatively short period, making them ideal for gardeners who prefer a bountiful harvest at once.

Pruning requirements: Determinate varieties generally require less pruning since their growth is naturally more controlled.

Key Characteristics of Indeterminate Tomato Plants:

Vining growth: Indeterminate plants have a more vine-like growth habit, with continuous stem growth.

Continuous fruiting: Unlike determinate plants, indeterminate varieties produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season until stopped by external factors such as changing temperatures at the end of the season.

Extended harvest period: Indeterminate plants offer a prolonged harvest window, allowing for a steady supply of ripe tomatoes over a more extended period.

Pruning requirements: Indeterminate varieties benefit from pruning to manage plant size, promote airflow, and enhance fruit production. Regular pruning helps focus plant energy on fruit development and prevents excessive foliage.

Choosing between determinate and indeterminate tomato plants depends on your gardening goals and available space. Determinate varieties are suitable for smaller gardens or container growing, providing a concentrated harvest. Indeterminate varieties are ideal for those seeking a continuous supply of tomatoes throughout the season and have more space for sprawling vines.

What’s the difference between heirloom and conventional tomato varieties?

Heirloom tomatoes are known for their rich history, unique flavors, and diverse appearances. Heirloom tomatoes are open-pollinated varieties that have been passed down through generations, often for at least 50 years. They are stabilized through natural pollination, meaning their seeds will produce offspring that closely resemble the parent plant and come in a wide range of sizes, colors, shapes, and flavors. They offer a diverse array of options, from small cherry tomatoes to large beefsteaks. The fruits can be round, oblong, ribbed, or even odd-shaped, and they come in various colors like red, yellow, green, purple, and striped.

Heirloom tomatoes are renowned for their exceptional flavors. They often offer a more complex and nuanced taste compared to conventional tomatoes. Some heirloom varieties have sweet, tangy, or even smoky flavors that are highly sought after by tomato enthusiasts. Heirloom tomatoes are typically grown by home gardeners, farmers' markets, and small-scale producers. They are less commonly found in commercial supermarkets due to their delicate nature and shorter shelf life compared to conventional tomatoes.

Conventional tomatoes, also known as hybrid or commercial tomatoes, are widely grown and distributed. Conventional tomatoes are hybrid varieties developed through controlled cross-pollination to create desirable traits like disease resistance, uniformity, and higher yields. These hybrids are often carefully selected and bred to meet market demands.

Conventional tomatoes tend to have a more standardized appearance, with round or oval shapes and smooth skin. They are often bred for a consistent size, color, and shape to meet the expectations of consumers and facilitate commercial packaging and transportation. Conventional tomatoes are bred to have a longer shelf life and withstand transportation over long distances. This characteristic allows them to be readily available in supermarkets throughout the year, regardless of the local growing season. Conventional tomatoes are widely available in supermarkets, grocery stores, and restaurants due to their suitability for commercial production and distribution. They are often more accessible and affordable compared to heirloom varieties.

Starting Tomato Seeds

Tomatoes need a long time to reach maturity, and if you are in a climate with a short growing season it’s important to start your tomatoes indoors to give them a head start. Begin by gathering your supplies, including seed trays, seed-starting mix, and high-quality tomato seeds. Follow the instructions on the seed packet for optimal planting depth and spacing. As the seedlings emerge, ensure they receive adequate light to prevent leggy growth.

Hardening Off Tomato Seedlings

Before transplanting your tomato seedlings outdoors, they need to be hardened off. This process helps them adjust to the outdoor conditions gradually. Begin by exposing the seedlings to outdoor elements for a few hours each day, gradually increasing the amount of time spent outdoors over the course of a week. Protect them from strong winds and direct sunlight. This gradual transition will prevent shock and ensure their successful adaptation to the garden environment.

Transplanting Tomato Seedlings Outdoors

Wait until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up before transplanting your tomatoes. Choose a sunny location with well-draining soil for optimal growth. Before planting, prepare the soil by removing weeds and incorporating compost/fertilizer.

How deep to bury tomatoes

Tomatoes should be buried deep - two thirds of the plant should be underground. Remove the bottom set of leaves and dig a hole deep enough to accommodate two thirds of the plant. Water thoroughly after transplanting to settle the soil around the roots.

Taking Care Of Tomato Plants

To ensure healthy growth and optimal fruit production, tomato plants require regular maintenance. Water the plants consistently at the soil, taking care to avoid splashing water on the leaves which can cause blight and aiming for deep watering to encourage deep root development. Mulching around the base of the plants helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. Provide support for indeterminate varieties by using stakes, cages, or trellises. Pruning is optional but can help improve airflow and reduce the risk of diseases. Remove suckers that form in the leaf axils, focusing on maintaining a single or double main stem.

Managing Tomato Pests and Diseases

Common tomato plant pests include aphids, tomato hornworms, and whiteflies. Implement preventive measures such as companion planting, regular inspection, and handpicking to control these pests. Diseases like blight, blossom-end rot, and powdery mildew can also affect tomato plants. Proper gardening practices such as adequate spacing, good air circulation, and watering at the base of the plant can help prevent diseases.

When and How to Harvest Tomatoes

The joy of growing tomatoes culminates in the moment of harvesting ripe, juicy fruits. Look for signs of maturity, including full color, firmness, and a slight give when gently squeezed. Use pruning shears or a sharp knife to harvest the tomatoes, leaving a short stem attached. Avoid pulling or twisting the fruits, as this may damage the plant. Handle them with care to prevent bruising.

Storing and Preserving Harvested Tomatoes

Store fully ripe tomatoes at room temperature away from direct sunlight, but if you need to prolong their shelf life, place them in a cool location. To preserve tomatoes, consider canning, freezing, or drying them. Canned tomatoes can be used in sauces, soups, and stews, while frozen or dried tomatoes retain their flavors for later use.

Troubleshooting Common Tomato Growing Challenges

Despite your best efforts, challenges may arise in your tomato garden, here’s what to do if your tomatoes won’t grow:

Stunted growth

Insufficient sunlight can hinder tomato plant growth. Ensure that your plants are receiving a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sunlight each day. If they are in a shady area, consider transplanting them to a sunnier location or using reflective materials to redirect sunlight.

Inconsistent or improper watering can affect plant growth. Ensure that the soil is consistently moist but not overly saturated. Water deeply and evenly, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out between watering sessions. Avoid letting the soil become bone dry or waterlogged.

Nutrient deficiencies or imbalances in the soil can stunt plant growth. Test the soil to determine its pH level and nutrient content. Amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve its structure and fertility. Consider applying a balanced organic fertilizer to provide essential nutrients.

Overcrowding can limit the growth of tomato plants. Ensure that there is enough space between plants to allow for proper air circulation and sunlight penetration. Crowded plants can compete for nutrients and water, leading to stunted growth.

Improper or excessive pruning can hinder plant growth. While some pruning is beneficial, especially for indeterminate varieties, avoid removing too many leaves or stems, as this can limit the plant's ability to produce energy through photosynthesis. Prune selectively to promote airflow and remove any diseased or damaged parts.

Extreme temperatures, especially cold snaps, can stunt tomato plant growth. Provide protection during chilly nights with covers or move potted plants indoors temporarily. Additionally, strong winds can damage plants and impede their growth, so consider providing a windbreak if necessary.

Sometimes, stunted growth may be a temporary setback due to environmental factors or transplant shock. Give your plants time to recover and monitor their progress. With proper care, they may start growing vigorously again.

Yellowing leaves

Yellowing leaves can be a sign of nutrient deficiencies, such as nitrogen, magnesium, or iron.

Improper watering practices can lead to yellowing leaves. Overwatering can cause root rot, depriving the plant of oxygen and resulting in yellow leaves that may eventually wilt. Underwatering, on the other hand, can lead to water stress and nutrient uptake issues.

Tomato plants prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH range of 6.0 to 6.8. If the soil pH is too high or too low, nutrient availability may be affected, resulting in yellow leaves.

Certain pests, such as aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites, can cause yellowing leaves as they feed on the plant sap. Some diseases, like early blight or fusarium wilt, can cause yellowing and wilting of tomato leaves.

Extreme temperatures, particularly excessive heat, can cause yellowing of leaves.

No fruit

Tomatoes require proper pollination to set fruit. If there are insufficient pollinators, such as bees, in your area or if the plants are grown indoors, you may need to manually pollinate the flowers. Gently shake the plants or use a small brush to transfer pollen between flowers, ensuring cross-pollination.

Extreme heat can interfere with fruit set in tomatoes. When temperatures exceed 90°F (32°C) during the day or 70°F (21°C) at night, pollen may become unviable, resulting in poor fruit formation. Consider providing shade or using shade cloth to protect the plants from intense heat.

Tomatoes require at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day to promote fruit production. If your plants are shaded by trees, buildings, or other structures, consider moving them to a sunnier location or pruning nearby obstacles to allow more sunlight to reach the plants.

Over-pruning or excessive removal of foliage can limit the plant's ability to produce energy through photosynthesis, which can result in reduced fruit set. Avoid excessive pruning, especially during the early stages of growth, and only remove diseased or damaged leaves when necessary.

Nutrient imbalance: Nutrient deficiencies or imbalances can affect fruit production. Ensure your plants are receiving adequate nutrition by using a balanced organic fertilizer or supplementing with compost or other organic matter. Test the soil to identify any nutrient deficiencies and amend accordingly.

Inconsistent or improper watering can affect fruit formation. Irregular watering, particularly periods of drought followed by heavy watering, can cause blossom-end rot and other fruit development issues. Maintain consistent soil moisture by watering deeply and evenly, allowing the top inch of soil to dry out between watering sessions.

Calcium is essential for healthy fruit development. Calcium deficiency can lead to blossom-end rot, where the bottoms of the fruits become dark and sunken. Ensure adequate calcium levels in the soil by adding amendments like gypsum or crushed eggshells, or by using calcium-fortified organic fertilizers.

By following this tomato growing guide, you are now equipped with the knowledge and skills to successfully grow your own tomatoes at home. From selecting the right varieties to nurturing and harvesting your plants, you have the tools to enjoy the incredible flavors of homegrown tomatoes. Embrace the journey of growing tomatoes and savor the bountiful rewards it brings to your garden and kitchen. Happy tomato growing!

Garlic Growing 101: Your Go-To Resource for Growing, Planting, and Harvesting Garlic Successfully

Our longest awaited crop is harvested in July - garlic, planted what feels like another lifetime ago in October of last year is finally ready to be pulled from the ground, cured and enjoyed. One way I can always tell if I will be good friends with someone is based on how much garlic they add to their recipes. If you’re not doubling the amount of garlic a recipe calls for, I’m not sure we can be friends.

Of course this is only a joke. But my obsession with garlic runs deep, as evidenced by this love letter to garlic scape pesto (click for the recipe).

Garlic imparts a flavor into your dishes that has to be experienced to be understood. Strong and sometimes spicy, no pasta dish is complete without it. I’ve even been known to be one of those weirdos who will eat garlic cloves raw for the health benefits. Nothing will clear your sinuses better than chomping on a raw garlic clove (chase it down with a chunk of fresh bread soaked in olive oil and you’re really talking).

Garlic has been used for its medicinal properties for thousands of years and is believed to have numerous health benefits. Garlic contains compounds that can stimulate the immune system, helping your body fight off infections and diseases, and it has been shown to have a blood pressure-lowering effect, which can reduce the risk of heart disease and stroke. Garlic is anti-inflammatory, and may help lower cholesterol levels, plus it is rich in antioxidants, which can protect your cells from damage caused by free radicals. Additionally, garlic may help improve bone health by increasing estrogen levels in women, which can help prevent osteoporosis and improve digestion by stimulating the production of digestive enzymes and promoting the growth of healthy gut bacteria.

Garlic has been cultivated and used for both culinary and medicinal purposes for over 5,000 years. The origins of garlic can be traced back to Central Asia, from where it spread to Egypt, India, China, and the Mediterranean region. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans all used garlic for its medicinal properties, and it was also used as a flavoring for food.

In ancient Greece, athletes would eat garlic before participating in the Olympic Games, believing that it would enhance their performance. The ancient Greeks also believed that garlic had aphrodisiac properties.

Garlic was also used during the Middle Ages to treat a variety of ailments, including the bubonic plague. It was believed that garlic could protect against the plague, and many people would carry cloves of garlic around with them as a protective amulet.

In modern times, garlic has become a staple ingredient in many cuisines around the world, and its health benefits have been the subject of numerous studies. Today, China is the world's largest producer of garlic, followed by India and Bangladesh.

How to Plant Garlic

Choosing the right garlic variety

There are two types of garlic you can plant; hard-neck or soft-neck.

Softneck garlic varieties are a type of garlic that do not produce a hard stem or "neck" in the center of the bulb. This type of garlic is typically easier to braid, has a longer shelf life, and is often preferred by commercial growers. Some popular varieties of softneck garlic include Silverskin, Artichoke, California Early, Creole, and Inchelium Red.

Soft-neck garlic does not produce scapes, so if you’re interested in trying this delicacy you’ll need to plant hard-neck varieties only. Garlic scapes aren’t something you can find in the grocery store, and while you may be able to find a single stall at your local farmers market that has them, their inventory will be short-lived. The season for scapes is small, a window of just a couple of weeks that adds to their novelty. Just another excellent excuse to grow them yourself as a side-effect of your garlic harvest.

Hardneck varieties of garlic are divided into eight groups: Porcelain, Rocambole, Purple Stripe, Glazed Purple Stripe, Marble Purple Stripe, Asiatic, Turban, and Creole. Porcelain is considered the hardiest type of hardneck garlic and is highly recommended for novice gardeners in cold climates, producing big, beautiful bulbs with satiny white wrappers with a strong flavor.

When is the best time to plant garlic?

Garlic needs a period of dormancy in the ground to develop strong root structures before the heat of spring and summer sends green shoots above-ground. For this reason it is best to plant garlic just after your first frost, while the ground can still be worked. Planted too early in the fall, you risk the garlic prematurely sprouting, sending valuable energy away from the bulb. If your garlic sprouts anyway, don’t fret - your final bulbs may be smaller, but they will still be delicious.

Can you grow garlic from the store?

You should not try to grow garlic that you purchased at the grocery store, for a few reasons. The first is that commercially grown garlic is often treated with chemicals including pesticides and growth inhibitors that may not allow your garlic to sprout and grow properly. The second reason is that seed garlic is selected specifically for desirable traits (size and disease resistance for example) that will lead to better harvests. The third reason is that you won’t be able to confirm whether the variety you are growing is hard-neck or soft-neck.

Preparing garlic seed for planting

Garlic seed purchased specifically for growing will arrive looking much the same as your average grocery store garlic. You’ll need to carefully break apart the bulbs into individual cloves for planting, without removing the protective skin around each clove. Without this papery coating, your cloves may be more susceptible to rot once planted. I find it next to impossible to completely separate cloves without losing some of the paper shell. I have planted both with little issue, so don’t despair if you can’t get each one perfect.

When to harvest garlic

Garlic is harvested the summer after it is planted. If you’re looking for signs that garlic is ready for harvesting, look for the lower 2 or 3 leaves to turn brown. This is a sign that the bulb has reached maturity. If possible, wait until the soil has had a chance to dry out for a few days with no rain. This will make it easier to harvest.

Steps to harvest garlic

Once your garlic is showing signs that it is ready to harvest, pull them from the ground. They should come away fairly easily. Brush off as much dirt as possible.

How to cure garlic after harvesting

Lay the garlic out in a dry, well-ventilated area, such as a garage or a covered porch. Avoid direct sunlight and humid conditions. Allow the garlic to dry for two to three weeks, or until the skins are papery and the cloves rattle inside the bulb. Once the garlic is fully dry, cut off the roots and the stem close to the bulb. Leave the papery skin intact.

Storing Garlic

Now you’re probably wondering how to store garlic for long-term use. Store the cured garlic in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area, such as a pantry or a cellar. Do not store garlic in plastic bags or containers, as this can cause it to rot. Instead, store garlic in mesh bags, baskets, or cardboard boxes. These are the best storage conditions for garlic.

Tricks for Peeling Garlic

Ask a garlic fan their favorite way to peel garlic easily, and you’ll get a different answer from each one. Personally, my preferred kitchen hack for peeling garlic quickly is the microwave. 3-5 seconds will be more than enough to loosen the papery skin and it should fall right off. Be careful - garlic can get very hot in the microwave even in this short amount of time.

If you’re not a microwave household and want to try a more traditional method for peeling garlic that doesn’t require any tools, try one of these methods:

Smashing method

Place a clove of garlic on a cutting board and place the flat side of a chef's knife on top of it. Use the heel of your hand to press down on the knife, crushing the garlic. This will loosen the skin, making it easier to remove.

Rolling method

Place a clove of garlic on a cutting board and place the flat side of a chef's knife on top of it. Use the palm of your hand to roll the knife back and forth over the garlic, applying gentle pressure. This will help loosen the skin.

Shaking method

Place a few cloves of garlic in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid. Hold the jar tightly and shake it vigorously for about 30 seconds. This will loosen the skin on the garlic, making it easier to remove.

Tips for storing peeled garlic

You can freeze peeled garlic as whole cloves or pre-minced and frozen into ice cube trays for easy convenient garlic whenever you need it.

Nurturing Nature's Best: Why Healthy Garden Soil is Essential for a Productive Vegetable Garden

Rich garden soil is a thing of beauty. Dark and loamy, with a rich, earthy smell. It is the perfect medium for growing plants, and it is a pleasure to work with. I love to dig my hands into the soil in my garden. I can feel the potential for life humming beneath my fingertips, soft and crumbling and alive. The smell brings me back to this moment; feeling the warmth of the sun on my skin as I work in the garden.

Soil is more than just a place to grow plants. With my hands in the earth, I can relax and connect with nature. In this place it is easy to notice the beauty of the world around us. When I work in the garden, I feel a sense of peace and tranquility. I am surrounded by the beauty of nature, and I am reminded of the importance of taking care of our planet.

Garden Soil: The Foundation of Your Garden

Garden soil is the foundation of your garden. It provides the nutrients and minerals that your plants need to grow and thrive. It also helps to regulate the water and air in your garden. Without healthy soil, your plants can’t reach their full potential.

But what is garden soil? And how do you choose the right soil for your garden?

What is Garden Soil?

Garden soil is a mixture of topsoil, compost, and organic matter. Topsoil is the layer of soil that is on the surface of the ground. It is usually the most fertile layer of soil. Compost is made from organic materials, such as food scraps, yard waste, and manure. Organic matter helps to improve the structure and fertility of soil.

Microbes in the soil play an important role in plant health. They help to break down organic matter, release nutrients, and protect plants from pests and diseases. Microbes help to break down organic matter, which releases nutrients that plants can use. This can help to improve plant growth and productivity. They can also help to protect plants from pests and diseases by producing antibiotics or other compounds that kill or inhibit harmful organisms, increase soil fertility by breaking down organic matter and releasing nutrients, reduce soil erosion by binding the soil particles together and improve water quality by filtering out pollutants and removing harmful chemicals from the water. Recent studies have even found that inhaling some of these microbes while moving soil in your garden may have antidepressant effects.

How to Choose the Right Soil for Your Garden

The first step in choosing the right soil for your garden is to determine the type of soil that you have. You can do this by taking a soil sample and having it tested at a local nursery or garden center. But this isn’t strictly necessary. You can also run a more rudimentary test of your own to test the soil using a mason jar. Fill the mason jar 1/3 full of well-sifted soil and add water to almost the top of the jar with some dish soap. Shake the mixture up. As the soil/water mixture settles over 48-72 hours the sand, silt, and clay will separate forming horizons. Mark the jar at the top of the sand layer, the top of the silt layer, and the top of the clay layer. Measure the height of each layer and the total height of all three layers. This will tell you if your soil is primarily clay, silt or sand.

Once you know the type of soil that you have, you can choose the right soil for your garden. If you have sandy soil, you will need to add compost or organic matter to improve the drainage. If you have clay soil, you will need to add sand or gravel to improve the drainage.

You will also need to consider the pH of your soil. The pH scale measures how acidic or alkaline your soil is. A pH of 7 is considered neutral. A pH of less than 7 is acidic. A pH of greater than 7 is alkaline. Most plants prefer a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. If your soil is too acidic or too alkaline, you will need to add lime or sulfur to adjust the pH.

How to Prepare Garden Soil

Once you have chosen the right soil for your garden, you will need to prepare it. This involves removing any weeds or debris, and then adding compost or organic matter. You can also add a slow-release fertilizer to your soil. This will give your plants a boost of nutrients that will last throughout the growing season.

How to Care for Garden Soil

The best way to care for garden soil is to keep it healthy. This means adding compost or organic matter regularly, and watering your plants regularly so your soil doesn’t become hydrophobic. You should also test your soil pH regularly and adjust it as needed.

What is hydrophobic soil?

Hydrophobic soil occurs when a waxy residue builds up on the soil particles resulting in it repelling water rather than absorbing it. This can happen if you do not water consistently, or you don’t use mulching to protect the surface layer of your soil from drying out. You can tell that soil has become hydrophobic because the water will bead up and not soak into the earth normally. You can also confirm your soil is hydrophobic by digging down an inch or two beneath the soil after watering. The surface may look damp, but underneath the soil will be completely dry.

How to fix hydrophobic soil

The easiest way to correct hydrophobic soil is to amend it with nutrient rich compost. However, you most likely won’t be fixing the soil that is hydrophobic - you’re really just slowly replacing the soil that has gone “bad” by mixing in fresh new soil that can encourage better absorption.

What soil is best for raised beds?

The best soil for traditional raised beds that sit on the ground is a mix of topsoil, compost, and sand. Topsoil provides nutrients and drainage. Compost improves the soil quality. And sand helps to aerate the soil. You can buy a pre-made mix of soil for raised beds or you can make your own. I always recommend Coast of Maine soil mixes for filling raised beds. Their Castine Blend™ Organic & Natural Raised Bed Mix is the ideal soil for raised bed organic gardening. It is carefully formulated to provide balance between structure, water retention, drainage and aeration for growing strong, vigorous vegetables, herbs and flowers in raised beds, planter boxes or other container gardens. It provides your garden the rich and diverse soil it needs.

Coast of Maine prides themselves on using a high quality enriched blend of fully cured compost, sphagnum peat moss, dehydrated poultry manure, lobster and crab shell meal, greensand, biochar, worm castings and mycorrhizae in their mixes. Close attention to detail with frequent turning, sampling and testing plus a lengthy aging and curing process produces dark, rich compost that builds soil and enhances plant growth.

If you are gardening in elevated raised beds like mine that are on legs, these are technically considered container gardens. It is important to use a lightweight potting mix (which has no actual soil in it) since your container gardens have different drainage and weight requirements.

Coast of Maine generously donated an entire pallet of their premium Bar Harbor Blend Organic Potting Soil to fill my raised beds with this summer, giving my plants the foundation they need to thrive. This all-purpose potting soil is made with sphagnum peat moss, compost, perlite, lobster and crab shell meal and kelp meal. It is designed for potting indoor and outdoor container plants. They also sent their Stonington Blend Plant Food which I will use to top-dress my beds. Lobster, as well as other shellfish species like crab (often taken with lobster as a by-catch), has been harvested off the coast of Maine for centuries. When the shells and bodies are dehydrated and ground into a meal for use as a fertilizer, it provides an all-natural source of organic nitrogen and calcium for plants, especially during their vegetative growth phase. Natural nitrogen and calcium help promote strong stem growth, green foliage, and vigorous roots.

No matter what, it is important to use a soil that is well-draining and that contains nutrients.

To make your own mix, combine equal parts topsoil, compost, and sand. If you’re purchasing soil, try to find a nursery or landscaping company that will deliver in bulk - the cost will be significantly less and you’ll avoid the many plastic bags needed for bagged soil going to the landfill.

How do you fill a raised bed cheaply?

You can put small sticks, leaves or even logs (for deeper beds) in the base of your raised bed to take up some of the room before adding your soil. Just keep in mind that the soil level will lower significantly as those materials begin to break down.

Is topsoil ok for raised beds?

You should use topsoil in moderation in raised beds. It is important to mix topsoil with compost and sand to improve the drainage and aeration of the soil.

What should you not put in a raised bed to fill it?

There are a few things that you should not put in a raised bed to fill it. These include:

• Clay soil

• Rocks

• Garbage

• Weeds that have gone to seed

What is the difference between garden soil and raised bed soil?

The main difference between garden soil and raised bed soil is that raised bed soil is usually more fertile and well-draining.

What is the difference between garden soil and topsoil?

Topsoil is the layer of soil that is on the surface of the ground. It is usually the most fertile layer of soil. Garden soil is a mixture of topsoil, compost, and sand. If you plant your garden in just topsoil, your plants won’t have the right combination of nutrients and drainage to thrive.

How healthy is your garden soil?

Conserve Water and Create a Sustainable Garden Using Drought-Tolerant Plants and Rainwater Harvesting

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Other than soil health, access to water in your garden is a crucial ingredient in growing food successfully, and with changing weather patterns and increased frequency of droughts due to climate change posing significant challenges to water resources, water conservation becomes even more critical in regions prone to drought to ensure the availability of water during dry periods.

According to the United Nations, about 2.2 billion people worldwide lack access to clean drinking water, and around 4.2 billion people experience severe water scarcity during at least one month of the year, and agriculture is the largest consumer of freshwater globally, accounting for around 70% of total water usage. Plus, energy is required to extract, treat, and distribute water, while water is necessary for energy production, such as cooling thermoelectric power plants. The water-energy nexus refers to this interdependence of water and energy resources. Conserving water can help reduce energy consumption and greenhouse gas emissions.

What is water conservation in the garden?

There are many ways you can collect rainwater and conserve water in the garden. You can adopt water-wise landscaping techniques, such as sustainable landscape design, collecting and using rainwater for non-potable purposes, drip irrigation, ollas and xeriscaping - the practice of designing landscapes to reduce or eliminate the need for irrigation by incorporating drought tolerant plants.

What are the benefits of including drought-tolerant plants and rainwater harvesting systems in your garden design?

By utilizing plants that don’t require heavy watering and can survive drying out a bit, you can reduce runoff (precipitation that does not soak into the soil but instead moves on the surface and is lost to evaporation), conserve water, save money on water bills, reduce maintenance, and support a healthy ecosystem. This is a great passive way to increase the sustainability of your garden with little effort - all it takes is a bit of planning. Use the list of drought tolerant plants below to start planning.

How do rainwater barrels work?

A rainwater harvesting system utilizing barrels most commonly works by capturing rain coming down your gutters off of your roof. The water can then be accessed through a spigot or hose connected directly to the barrel. You can scale this concept up with an actual collection tank, and even hook it into your home’s greywater system.

What is the best rainwater harvesting barrel?

We have this 50 Gallon Capacity Flat Back Rain Barrel. It allows us to utilize natural resources and is linkable to other barrels for increased capacity using separately sold linking kit. This rain barrel collection system is resistant to rust, mold, mildew, and rotting and has a high quality brass spigot for hose hook-up, plus an included overflow spout helps drain excess water away. There is a screen to keep out debris, insects, animals, and children. It is made off BPA-free, FDA approved resin in the USA and it is 22" L x 23" W x 30" H. It is sturdy and built to last.

What are some other ways to conserve water in the garden?

The concept of using ollas as an irrigation system goes back thousands of years and has been used in countless cultures around the world. An olla watering system is basically any type of unglazed clay pot that is buried beneath the soil with only a small amount sticking up above the surface and filled with water. You can tell that a pot is unglazed because it will be that classic terracotta red color with no shiny finish, glaze or paint. The water then leeches out of tiny holes or “pores” in the unglazed clay and is pulled through the soil to the roots of your thirsty plants using a process called soil moisture tension. This functions much the same way as osmosis, in that the water is trying to equalize to a certain level of moisture within the soil. This means your soil will never become overwatered either - if the soil is moist, the water stays in the pot until it is needed. Click here for full instructions on how to make your own.

DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS

Thyme

Appearance: Small, fragrant leaves on low-growing, spreading stems.

Size: Typically 4 to 8 inches tall and spreading up to 12 inches.

Uses: Culinary herb, medicinal properties, ground cover.

Olive Tree

Appearance: Evergreen tree with gray-green foliage and small, white flowers.

Size: Can reach up to 30 feet tall, but some cultivars are smaller.

Uses: Edible olives and oil, ornamental tree.

Fern-leaf Yarrow

Appearance: Feathery, fern-like leaves and clusters of yellow flowers.

Size: Typically 2 to 4 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Ornamental plant, cut flowers, attracts beneficial insects.

Hummingbird Mint

Appearance: Aromatic foliage with spikes of tubular flowers in various colors.

Size: Varies by species, typically 2 to 4 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide.

Uses: Ornamental plant, attracts pollinators, herbal tea.

Zinnia

Appearance: Showy, daisy-like flowers in a wide range of colors and sizes.

Size: Varies by cultivar, but generally 1 to 3 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Ornamental plant, cut flowers, attracts butterflies.

Aloe vera

Appearance: Rosettes of fleshy, spiky leaves with tall flower stalks.

Size: Typically 1 to 2 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Medicinal gel from the leaves, ornamental plant.

Purple Coneflower

Appearance: Large, showy flowers with cone-shaped centers and drooping petals.

Size: Usually 2 to 4 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide.

Uses: Medicinal herb, ornamental plant, attracts pollinators.

Beardtongue

Appearance: Tubular flowers in various colors, on tall stems with narrow leaves.

Size: Ranges from 1 to 4 feet tall, depending on the species.

Uses: Ornamental plant, some species used in traditional medicine.

Blanket Flower

Appearance: Brightly colored daisy-like flowers on long stems.

Size: Varies by species, typically 1 to 3 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Ornamental plant, attracts pollinators.

Yarrow

Appearance: Feathery foliage with flat-topped clusters of flowers in various colors.

Size: Generally 1 to 3 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Medicinal herb, ornamental plant, attracts beneficial insects.

Stonecrop

Appearance: Succulent leaves and clusters of star-shaped flowers.

Size: Varies by species, but generally low-growing and spreading, ranging from a few inches to 2 feet in height.

Uses: Ornamental plant, ground cover, some species have medicinal properties.

Rosemary

Appearance: Aromatic, needle-like leaves on woody stems with small blue flowers.

Size: Can grow 2 to 4 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Culinary herb, aromatic properties, traditional medicinal uses.

Agave

Appearance: Large succulent with sharp, spiky leaves arranged in a rosette shape.

Size: Can grow up to 6 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Edible flower stalks, medicinal properties in traditional herbal remedies.

Yucca

Appearance: Sword-like leaves forming a clump with tall flower spikes.

Size: Typically 2 to 3 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Edible flowers and fruit, soap-making from root fibers.

Prickly Pear Cactus

Appearance: Thick, succulent pads with spines and showy flowers.

Size: Various species, but commonly 3 to 6 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Edible fruit (prickly pear), medicinal properties in traditional medicine.

Lavender

Appearance: Fragrant, grayish-green foliage with spikes of purple flowers.

Size: Typically 1 to 3 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Culinary herb, essential oil production, herbal medicine.

Sage

Appearance: Gray-green leaves with purple-blue flowers on upright stems.

Size: Typically 1 to 2 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Culinary herb, medicinal properties in traditional medicine.

Rockrose

Appearance: Evergreen shrub with showy, papery flowers in various colors.

Size: Varies by species, generally 2 to 5 feet tall and wide.

Uses: Ornamental plant, aromatic properties in potpourri.

Maximizing Water Conservation in the Garden

If you’ve already implemented drought tolerant plants into your sustainable garden design and set up a rainwater harvesting system, the next thing you should consider is if there is anywhere that you can add mulch to your garden.

Mulch acts as a protective layer over the soil, reducing evaporation and slowing down water loss. It helps to keep the soil consistently moist by preventing water from quickly evaporating under the sun and wind. Mulch creates a barrier that inhibits weed growth. Weeds compete with garden plants for water, so by suppressing their growth, mulch helps reduce water loss by minimizing competition for moisture. It acts as an insulating layer, moderating soil temperature fluctuations. It keeps the soil cooler during hot weather, reducing water evaporation, and warmer during colder periods, promoting root health and water absorption, and helps to prevent soil erosion by reducing the impact of heavy rainfall on the soil surface. It absorbs and disperses the force of falling water, preventing runoff and allowing water to infiltrate the soil more effectively.

Organic mulches, such as compost, break down over time and improve the soil structure. This enhances the soil's water-holding capacity, allowing it to retain moisture for longer periods and reducing the need for frequent watering, and when water is applied to the garden, mulch helps to slow down the flow and absorption of water, preventing runoff. This allows the plants to utilize more of the water provided, reducing water waste.

To maximize the water-saving benefits of mulch, it is essential to apply an adequate layer (2 to 4 inches) around plants, leaving space around the stem to prevent moisture-related issues. Additionally, selecting organic mulch materials, such as wood chips, straw, or compost, provides the added advantage of improving soil health over time.

I encourage you to take action in the fight against climate change by incorporating these elements into your landscape design to save water, reduce your environmental impact, and create a healthier ecosystem!