What To Grow In a Greenhouse [Hometown Structures]

Benefits of growing food in a greenhouse

Greenhouses protect plants from cold weather, allowing you to grow crops earlier in the spring and later into the fall. You can even cultivate plants year-round in some cases. Since you can regulate temperature, humidity, and light levels, greenhouses are ideal for creating optimal growing conditions for specific plants. The enclosed nature of a greenhouse helps to shield plants from pests like insects and rodents, and also minimizes the spread of diseases that can be carried by wind or rain. Because of the ability to control the environment, you can grow a wider range of plants in a greenhouse than you could outdoors in your local climate. This includes exotic fruits, vegetables, and flowers that wouldn't normally survive in your area. Greenhouses safeguard plants from harsh weather conditions like hail, strong winds, and excessive sun exposure. This can result in healthier plants and higher yields.

Choosing the right plants for your greenhouse is absolutely crucial for its success. It's like having the perfect kitchen but picking ingredients that don't go together - you might end up with wasted time, effort, and resources. Different plants have specific requirements for temperature, light, humidity, and spacing. Matching these needs with your greenhouse's capabilities ensures the plants thrive. Imagine putting a cactus in a constantly damp environment - it wouldn't do well! Choosing plants suited to your greenhouse minimizes the extra effort required to maintain ideal conditions. You won't be constantly battling unsuitable temperatures or humidity levels for your plants. Selecting high-yielding plants for your specific greenhouse environment allows you to harvest the most vegetables, fruits, or flowers possible from your space. Plants under stress from unsuitable conditions are more susceptible to pests and diseases. Picking the right plants helps them stay healthy and fight off potential problems. By carefully considering your greenhouse's environment and choosing compatible plants, you set the stage for a thriving and productive greenhouse experience. But before you pick your plants, you need to know what climate you’re working with - and that’s where garden zones come in.

What are garden zones?

Garden zones, also known as plant hardiness zones, are specifically designed for gardeners to identify which plants are most likely to thrive in their local climate. Unlike climate zones, which are large geographic regions with distinct weather patterns, garden zones focus on a single factor: a region's average annual minimum winter temperature.

The most widely used system for garden zones is the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, developed by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Agricultural Research Service. This map divides North America into 13 zones, with Zone 1 being the coldest (average minimum temperature of -60 to -50°F) and Zone 13 being the warmest (average minimum temperature of 60 to 70°F). Within each zone, there are further subdivisions designated by the letters a and b. For example, Zone 7a has a slightly warmer average minimum temperature range (0 to 5°F) than Zone 7b (5 to 10°F).

By knowing your garden zone, you can choose plants that are more likely to survive and thrive in your local climate. This can save you time, money, and frustration in the long run. You can find your USDA Plant Hardiness Zone by entering your zip code on the USDA website https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/ or using a gardening app.

The best way to grow food in a greenhouse year round is by working with nature, not against it. Which means choosing heat loving, warm season crops in the summer and cold loving winter crops in the winter. Here’s a few of my favorites to get you started:

Warm-Season Food to grow in a Greenhouse

Tomatoes

There are many varieties of tomatoes that are well-suited for greenhouse cultivation. Determinate tomatoes ripen all at the same time so you can make all your sauces and salsas at once for preserving. They grow on compact bushes, so you probably don't need to stake these plants. Indeterminate varieties grow and produce fruit all season; therefore, you could use these tomatoes more regularly in salads and sandwiches. In between these two types are the semideterminate. As you might guess, they do both—produce a main crop that ripens at once, but also continue to produce up until frost. The really big, juicy tomatoes are probably slicer tomatoes, meaning they are thick and sturdy for slicing.

Some tomato varieties require pollination by bees or other insects. If you are not planning to introduce pollinators to your greenhouse, you will need to choose a self-pollinating variety. Many tomato varieties are now available that are resistant to common diseases such as fusarium wilt and verticillium wilt. Choosing disease-resistant varieties can help to reduce the need for pesticides in your greenhouse. Consider how long you want your tomatoes to take to mature. If you are growing in a cold climate, you may want to choose a variety that matures early.

Sun Gold Pole Cherry Tomatoes (Indeterminate)

Rare in grocery stores, 'Sun Gold's' plump, tangerine-colored fruits are a special treat at the peak of flavor in the garden-very sweet and juicy! Provide support for vigorous vines that easily reach 6' long. Pick a bit early and ripen indoors at room temperature. Low-acidity tomato. Disease resistant.

Green Zebra Pole Tomatoes (Indeterminate)

'Green Zebra' has excellent flavor and unique color—golden green with forest green stripes, developing a slight amber blush when ripe. The 2"–3" tomatoes have very smooth skin essentially free of cracks. Provide support for vines that reach 6' or more. More heat and drought tolerant than other varieties.

Brandywine Pole Tomatoes (Indeterminate)

Brandywines have been favored by tomato lovers for more than 100 years. Fruits often weigh around a pound but can weigh close to 2 pounds! 'Yellow Brandywine' turns golden yellow when ripe, with a balance of sweet and tart; 'Red Brandywine' has a rich, well-balanced tomato flavor.

Italian Roma Bush Tomatoes (Determinate)

An absolutely excellent heirloom tomato—firm, meaty, 3" oblong fruits with few seeds, on compact vines that are very productive. As a determinate type, most of the fruits ripen at the same time, which makes this tomato a good choice for canning. In areas with a long growing season, a second planting will double your harvest!

Cream Sausage Bush Tomatoes (Determinate)

True to name, these cylindrical, cream to pale yellow tomatoes are best harvested at 3"—when they start to look like little sausages! With a smooth, buttery, rich flavor, 'Cream Sausage' is ready to eat like an apple right off the vine, or save it for the kitchen to simmer into a yellow pasta sauce, create contrast in salsas, or slice up for a fresh salad. This highly productive cultivar is compact and perfect for containers.

Red Pride Bush Tomatoes (Determinate)

The blue ribbon winner! 'Red Pride' yields a bountiful harvest on vigorous, compact plants. Its reliable production of 10-ounce fruits combined with an excellent disease resistance package, including Alternaria stem canker, gray leaf spot, Fusarium wilt (1, 2), and Verticillium wilt, make it a winner for any garden!

Peppers

There are many pepper varieties that are well-suited for greenhouse cultivation, depending on several factors including your desired fruit size, flavor profile (sweet or hot), and plant growth habit (bush or vining).

Bell peppers are the most common type of pepper grown in greenhouses. They come in a variety of colors (green, yellow, orange, red, purple, and chocolate brown) and sizes, and have a mild, sweet flavor. Peppers are usually indeterminate plants, meaning they continue to produce new fruit throughout the growing season. Hot peppers come in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and heat levels.

Shishito Chili Peppers

The 'Shishito' is finding its way into many restaurants as a popular appetizer. The 2"–4" slender peppers have a citrusy, slightly smoky flavor enhanced by grilling or sautéing, and can be the life of the party when an occasional hot one passes the mouth of the unsuspecting. Highly productive plants. 50–200 Scoville heat units (mild).

California Sweet Bell Pepper

An old-time favorite since 1928 for good reason! 'California Wonder's' large, uniform shape makes it ideal for stuffing. Delicious grilled, they are perfect for shish kabobs. Peppers left on the plant will turn a beautiful, bright red, and have more vitamin C than an orange! Good container variety, and dependable performer even in short season climates.

Habanero Chili Peppers

Prized by chile aficionados not only for its intense heat, but its distinct fruitiness, the habanero is used in sensational salsas and will turn a bland barbeque into a fiery feast! Habaneros are said to be 100 times hotter than jalapeños. 100,000-350,000 Scoville heat units (extremely hot).

Early Jalapeno Chili Peppers

Lots of bold flavor in a small, 3" pepper, 'Early Jalapeño' is better adapted to cooler climates than other jalapeños. Incredibly versatile, they're hot enough to add a little kick to your favorite dish, but mild enough for any meal. Enjoy green or allow to ripen to red for a sweeter, bolder flavor. Jalapeños rate 2,500–5,000 Scoville heat units (medium hot).

Most pepper varieties are self-pollinating, but some may benefit from hand pollination. Many pepper varieties are now available that are resistant to common diseases such as bacterial spot and powdery mildew. Choosing disease-resistant varieties can help to reduce the need for pesticides in your greenhouse. Consider how long you want your peppers to take to mature. If you are growing in a cold climate, you may want to choose a variety that matures early.

Eggplant

Eggplant is a great choice for greenhouse cultivation because it thrives in warm, controlled environments, and hates wind. Eggplant comes in many colors from dark purple to white and variegated stripes and shapes including round, elongated and large or small fruit. Earlier varieties are a good choice for colder climates.

Black Beauty Eggplant

A beautiful vegetable with lovely, lavender blossoms pretty enough to grow in the flower garden. 'Black Beauty' has set the standard since 1902 for large, high-quality fruit. Outstanding when harvested at their peak, the skin is tender, so no need to peel it. A widely used international food; there are countless recipes from Italy to China to Russia and beyond.

Long Purple Eggplant

This long, slender variety, not usually found in grocery stores, is flavorsome in countless recipes from Italy to China to Russia and beyond. Also called 'Italian Long Purple', this prolific heirloom will bring beautiful color to the garden and savory goodness to the table.

Jewel Amethyst Eggplant

‘Jewel Amethyst' is perfect for containers, with a tidy habit that makes harvesting a breeze. Glossy, oval, purple fruits are best harvested when about 3''–4 ½" long. Harvest regularly from this prolific plant and keep eggplant on the table throughout the season. Its firm texture and mild flavor make this mini eggplant ideal for roasting, frying, or glazing with a flavorful sauce.

Rattlesnake beans

Rattlesnake beans, like most beans, thrive in warm weather. But most beans stop producing when temps go above 90°F - rattlesnake beans don’t! They actually love the hotter temps, and a greenhouse provides a controlled environment where you can maintain the ideal temperatures (around 80-90°F) for them to flourish, especially if you live in a climate with cooler summers.

These beans are known for their extended harvest period. Greenhouses can extend the growing season for rattlesnake beans, allowing you to enjoy fresh beans for a longer time. Rattlesnake bean plants are vigorous growers and produce a high yield of beans. In a greenhouse, you can create optimal growing conditions that can maximize your harvest. Rattlesnake beans are vining plants, so they grow vertically and take up minimal floor space. This is a great advantage in a greenhouse, where space can be limited. You can easily train them to grow up a trellis or other support structure.

As mentioned earlier, rattlesnake beans are vining plants and will need some support to grow vertically. You can install a trellis, netting, or stakes in your greenhouse to support the vines. Rattlesnake beans are self-pollinating, so you won't need to worry about attracting pollinators to your greenhouse. Rattlesnake beans need consistent moisture, but avoid overwatering. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings. You can harvest rattlesnake beans when the pods are young and tender, or you can let them mature and dry the beans for shelling.

Malabar Spinach

Malabar spinach is a tropical vine that flourishes in hot and humid conditions. Greenhouses provide excellent control over temperature and humidity, allowing you to mimic its ideal growing environment year-round, especially in cooler climates. This vigorous vine can grow up to 10 feet in a single season. A greenhouse offers ample vertical space for it to sprawl and climb, unlike outdoor settings where it might be restricted. Malabar spinach produces leaves continuously throughout the growing season. Greenhouses can extend this period significantly, giving you a longer window to enjoy fresh harvests. Since it's sensitive to frost, greenhouses offer protection from chilly outdoor temperatures that can damage or kill the plant.

Provide a trellis, netting, or poles for the vines to climb. This encourages vertical growth and maximizes space usage. Malabar spinach prefers full sun to partial shade. If your greenhouse has limited natural light, you might need to supplement with artificial lights. Maintain consistent moisture in the soil but avoid waterlogging. The humid greenhouse environment might require adjustments in watering frequency compared to outdoors.

Cool-Season Crops

Lettuce

Lettuce prefers cooler temperatures. Most lettuce varieties mature quickly, within 30-70 days, meaning you can enjoy multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Lettuce plants are relatively compact, making them ideal for maximizing space utilization in a greenhouse. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers. There are many varieties of lettuce available, from crisphead to romaine to leafy greens, allowing you to cultivate a diverse selection in your greenhouse.

Buttercrunch Butterhead Lettuce

‘Buttercrunch' is a vigorous grower with a creamy yellow interior, buttery flavor and melt-in-your-mouth texture, pleasing palates since 1963. Small heads are perfect for a single-serve salad. The compact size makes it a good container variety, and it's also attractive in the flower-garden border.

Red Sails Leaf Lettuce

A favorite to use as baby greens, 'Red Sails' is ready to harvest after just 2 or 3 weeks and grows to a full head in just over 6 weeks. Very heat tolerant, the soft buttery leaves will grow well into warm weather without getting bitter. Contains more vitamins A and C than grocery-store lettuce! Attractive container variety, too.

Ice Queen Crisphead Lettuce

Ice Queen' dates back to 1883, and gets its name because it is cold tolerant, but also tolerates heat well and is slow to bolt. Also considered a summer crisp or Batavia, this bright, emerald green lettuce with frilly leaves has crisp texture and excellent fresh flavor. Also delicious as a baby green in as little as 21 days. You can harvest the outer, frilly leaves while waiting for the head to form.

Spinach

Spinach thrives in cooler temperatures, and most spinach varieties mature quickly, within 40-50 days from seeding. This rapid growth cycle allows you to have multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Spinach plants are relatively compact, making them good for maximizing space in your greenhouse. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers.

Bloomsdale Spinach

'Bloomsdale' is an early 1800's, dependable, open-pollinated variety. For growing tender, baby greens in as little as 28 days, you can sow seeds just 1" apart. Very nutritious—lots of vitamins A and C and iron. Grows great in a container too!

Kale

Kale is quite tolerant of a wider range of temperatures than some other cool-season crops. It can even handle frosts, adding to its resilience in a greenhouse setting. Most kale varieties mature within 50-70 days from seeding, allowing you to have multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Kale plants are not overly bushy, making them suitable for maximizing space utilization in your greenhouse. The three most common types of culinary kale include: curly (e.g., 'Redbor', 'Dwarf Blue Curled'), Russian (flat leaf with serrated edges, e.g., 'Red Russian'), and cavolo Nero (also called "dinosaur kale", the Italian lacinato type with dark, savoyed leaves, (e.g., 'Nero Toscana')

Redbor Kale

This kale has it all. Beautiful, ruffled leaves are tasty and have amazing color. Extremely cold tolerant, 'Redbor's' purple color and curliness intensifies, and flavor sweetens as temperatures drop in the fall; plants can last even through hard freezes. Sow with pansies, violas, and snapdragons for long-lasting fall color. Looks great in containers.

Red Russian Kale

Kale gets sweeter after the first fall frost. 'Red Russian', brought to North America in 1885, is sweet and tender all the time, making it excellent for mesclun, garnishes, and sautéing. The red veins, wavy margins, and foliage that resembles oak leaves make 'Red Russian' as attractive as it is delicious. Harvest baby greens in just 21 days.

Lacinato Kale

This tender kale is also known as black Tuscan kale, black cabbage, and black palm. Vigorous dark green to black leaves of this 18th century heirloom are favored by gourmets. Harvest the first shoots as tender young salad greens in just 21 days when 2"–4" tall, or achieve full-sized plants in 2 months.

Cabbage

The enclosed nature of a greenhouse helps shield cabbage plants from common outdoor pests like cabbage worms and aphids. It can also minimize the spread of diseases that can be carried by wind or rain. Consistent and cool temperatures in a greenhouse contribute to optimal head formation in cabbage. Fluctuating outdoor temperatures can sometimes hinder proper head development. Greenhouses safeguard cabbage from harsh weather conditions like hail, strong winds, and excessive sun exposure. This protection can result in healthier plants and potentially higher yields.

Red Acre Cabbage

Solid heads form early on small, compact plants making 'Red Acre' an ideal choice for small gardens. Resistant to splitting and cabbage yellows disease. Heads store exceptionally well in the refrigerator or root cellar.

One Kilo Slow Bolt Napa Cabbage

Also called napa cabbage, 'One Kilo Slow Bolt' has a delicate flavor, a soft texture in between that of lettuce and regular cabbage, and tight heads have a creamy yellow interior. Grows with ease in fall, and can be sown in spring if care is taken to protect young plants from temperatures of 50°F or below, which may cause plants to bolt. Grows best at 60°-65°F.

Carrots

Carrots can be grown in a greenhouse, but it requires more attention to detail compared to other vegetables. If you are a beginner greenhouse gardener, you might want to start with easier crops like lettuce or spinach before attempting carrots. However, with the right care and suitable varieties, you can enjoy fresh, homegrown carrots even outside the traditional growing season. Greenhouses protect carrots from cold weather, allowing you to plant them earlier in spring and harvest them later in fall, or even year-round in some climates. The enclosed nature of a greenhouse helps shield carrots from pests like carrot flies and root maggots, and minimizes the spread of diseases.

Carrots require loose, well-aerated soil to grow properly. Heavier, compacted soils can lead to deformed or stunted carrots. Amending your greenhouse soil with sand or other materials to improve drainage is crucial. Carrots need adequate sunlight for good root development. If your greenhouse has limited natural light, supplementing with artificial lights might be necessary. Carrots need proper spacing between them to allow for root growth. Overcrowding can result in stunted, misshapen carrots.

Choose carrot varieties suited for greenhouse cultivation. These varieties may be shorter or have slower bolting tendencies (going to seed) compared to outdoor varieties. Maintain consistent moisture in the soil, but avoid overwatering which can lead to root rot. The humidity levels in your greenhouse might require adjustments in watering frequency compared to outdoors. Carrots are cool-season vegetables, excessively high temperatures can negatively impact root growth.

Beets

Beets prefer cool weather. Most beet varieties mature within 50-60 days from seeding, meaning you can enjoy multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season. Beet greens are relatively compact, making them suitable for maximizing space utilization in your greenhouse. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers.You can harvest both the beet greens (tops) and the beetroot (bulb) for delicious and nutritious meals.

Touchstone Gold Beets

Not only does the color of this beet make it stand apart, but so does the flavor. Golden beets are known for being extra sweet and less "earthy" than their red counterparts. Best at 1"–3" round.

Scallions

Scallions prefer cooler temperatures. Most scallions mature quickly, within 40-60 days from planting. This rapid growth cycle allows you to have multiple harvests throughout a single greenhouse season, providing a steady supply of fresh scallions. Scallions are compact plants and don't require a lot of space. You can grow them in rows, beds, or even containers, making them ideal for maximizing space utilization in your greenhouse. You can harvest scallions at any stage of growth, using both the green stalks and white bulbs for adding flavor to various dishes. Scallions are generally quite resistant to pests and diseases, making them a low-maintenance crop to grow in a greenhouse.

White Lisbon Bunching Scallion

‘White Lisbon' is a green or spring onion, and sometimes referred to as a scallion or bunching onion. A popular variety since the 1700s because it produces dependably in widely varying conditions. It thrives in a wide range of soils, is heat and cold tolerant, and can be sown successively throughout the season. For the finest quality, pencil-thin onions, sow seed densely and do not thin seedlings.

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Greenstalk Planter Review [Vertical Garden Planter]

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Vertical gardening is quickly becoming one of my favorite gardening hacks to not only grow more plants in small spaces, but also make gardening more accessible if you have chronic pain. Having grown in a Greenstalk vertical planter for 3+ years now, I can safely say it’s my favorite way to garden - and that these planters are built to last. After multiple seasons left out in the cold northern elements, my vertical planter looks as good as the day I assembled it.

What is vertical gardening?

Vertical gardening is a way to grow plants in a vertical space, such as on a wall or fence. It can be used to grow a variety of plants, including vegetables, herbs, flowers, and even trees. Vertical gardens are a great way to save space, add beauty to your home, and grow your own food.

What are the benefits of vertical gardening?

Increased yield: Vertical gardens can produce more fruits, vegetables, and herbs in a smaller footprint.

Improved plant health: Vertical gardens can reduce the risk of pests and diseases by providing better airflow and drainage. They also minimize or eliminate weeding.

Reduced water usage: Vertical gardens can use up to 90% less water than traditional gardens.

Increased accessibility: Vertical gardens can be used by people with limited mobility or chronic pain.

Improved air quality: Vertical gardens can help to improve air quality by absorbing carbon dioxide and releasing oxygen.

Are vertical gardens high maintenance?

No, most vertical gardens like the planter I use are very low maintenance. With the addition of automated timers for your grow lights and self watering trays you’ll really only have to maintain your garden once or twice a week.

How long do vertical gardens last?

My Greenstalk Planter is super durable - I’ve even heard stories of people having them fall off their decks and they were totally fine! My Greenstalk planter should last for many years, especially if they are properly cared for. You’ll be continually refreshing the plants in your garden as they reach the end of their lifecycle, which can be anywhere from a month for lettuce to six months for larger plants like squash.

How do you start a vertical garden?

To start a vertical garden, you will need to choose a location and purchase the necessary supplies. You can then choose the plants you want to grow and plant them in your vertical garden. The entire process is much faster than planting a traditional garden in the ground. I recommend choosing a spot that is easily accessible from your kitchen, so you can easily grab what you need before you start cooking dinner and have the freshest harvest possible. You’ll also want a spot in full sun if you’re using your vertical garden outdoors. I have this vertical garden outside on my deck to increase my available growing space and yield.

Greenstalk Planter Review

If you had told me I could grow 30 veggie plants, flowers and herbs in 2 square feet of space, I would have thought you were crazy. But the Greenstalk has grow pockets that are a full ten inches deep so my plants can grow as big as they want (and I can grow everything from carrots to peppers, tomatoes, herbs and squash!). It's by far the best way to maximize your garden space and make gardening more accessible if you have chronic pain like me.

The Greenstalk was a breeze to set up. I just filled each individual tier with soil and then my plant starts/seeds. The high-quality, food-grade, UV-resistant, BPA, BPS & PVC-free plastic tiers snap together with built in clips so there's no fiddling with tools or tiny parts trying to line everything up. I also got the spinner base with wheels which allows me to rotate the planter to get the most sun during the day and roll it around if it's ever in my way. Next I attached the self watering kit which is basically a long custom tube that clips to the side of the planter and connects directly to your hose to fill the top reservoir automatically. 

I’ve grown with my Greenstalk for 3+ years now, and in that time the only issue I’ve encountered was soil related - NOT planter related. These vertical planters are container gardens, which means it’s extra important to only use potting mix since it is designed to balance drainage and water retention. Raised bed soil or topsoil will be too heavy and dense, and your plants may not thrive. As long as you use standard potting mix and fertilize regularly, you will have a thriving garden in your Greenstalk.

The planters are made from high quality, thick materials that do not wear down when exposed to the elements. Unlike my wood beds, which need to be covered and resealed yearly to protect them from my harsh northern winters, my Greenstalks require no maintence or protection from the elements. And they come in so many gorgeous colors, it’s hard not to want to collect them all.

How does the Greenstalk planter work?

What makes this outdoor vertical garden unique is the patented top water reservoir for easier watering with 4 watering disks to easily distribute water. GreenStalk’s patented watering system delivers fresh water to every tier at the same time so you don’t have to water each pocket by hand. All you do is add water to the top tray up to the fill line and the Greenstalk does the rest utilizing a gravity-fed system to slowly and evenly drip irrigate your planter, which means no need to worry about thirsty plants OR root rot!

After using my Greenstalk all summer, fall AND winter with the optional frost cover, I can't imagine my garden without it. In fact, I'm trying to resist buying a bunch more! If I had a choice, all my garden beds would be at least three feet off the ground, but this setup combined with the self watering bluetooth timer in summer is a GAME CHANGER. Talk about hands off (and weed-free) gardening.

Does Greenstalk have a warranty?

Yes, they include a 5-year warranty on color and functionality of the planter. 

What can I grow in the GreenStalk Planter?

There are many different plants that can be grown in the Greenstalk planter, thanks to the super deep 10' pockets. I can grow peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, squash, lettuce and other greens, herbs and even root crops like potatoes and carrots. strawberries are a really popular choice to grow in a Greenstalk planter as well. And of course I had to add some flowers like petunias, marigolds, and pansies. But these are just some of the many plants you can grow in your Greenstalk! Greenstalk  recommends growing larger plants in the GreenStalk Original and smaller plants in the GreenStalk Leaf.

Can I use the GreenStalk Planter indoors?

These Greenstalk planters are basically all-weather outdoor champs. Some folks get creative and bring them indoors, tweaking the lighting and drainage. But with the addition of a frost cover and some careful planning to grow cold loving crops you can continue the outdoor harvesting well into the winter months.

How to store a GreenStalk Planter during the winter months?

Greenstalk planters are made for all climates. They can stay outdoors all year long (yes, really!) or they can be cleaned, stacked, and stored away.  

How much does each tier weigh?

One Original Greenstalk with all its green glory and watering action hits the scale at around 30 lbs. If you're eyeing the Leaf Greenstalk, each tier throws down a weight of about 23 lbs.

How much soil do I need for the Greenstalk?

Each Original Tier holds 1 cubic foot of potting mix (about 8 gallons). Each Leaf Tier holds 0.75 cubic feet of potting mix (about 6 gallons).

Do I need special soil to use a GreenStalk?

Any high-quality, lightweight potting mix would work well. Avoid using topsoil, raised bed soil, or garden soil.

How often should I water my Greenstalk?

Watering is all about the season, weather, and the plants you've got growing. When you kick off the planter setup, my tip is to drench the soil using the water reservoir and each little pocket. If you're starting from seeds, give 'em a gentle mist until the plants are holding their own, so you don't go tossing those seeds around. And don't forget to sneak a peek and make sure the soil is staying moist below the top layer.

How long does the water sit in the reservoir?

GreenStalk's patented slow drip watering system allows water to drain through the system within approximately 5 minutes. If used correctly, there will be no sitting water anywhere in the system. The bottom of the GreenStalk includes little “feet” that allow water to drain out and away from the planter.

How do I fertilize my GreenStalk Garden?

You can add granular fertilizers, compost or worm castings when filling the tiers with soil, but the best hack is to add water soluble fertilizer as needed through the GreenStalk’s internal watering system when filling the top water reservoir.

Want more vertical gardening ideas?

I love vertical gardening so much, I literally wrote a book on it. This ebook has everything you need to know to get started with indoor gardening, including DIY vertical gardens you can make, to-do lists so you don’t miss a thing and more. Just click here to grab your copy.

Extend Your Garden Season With These Techniques

With your garden prepped for winter, you may be ready to turn in and take a break from growing for a few months. But if you’re like me and the idea of the garden totally ending breaks your heart, there’s a few different ways we can extend our growing season and keep harvesting fresh food from the garden all year round. I’ll be using all of these methods in my own garden to grow cold loving crops while the snow falls.

How To Use Row Cover

There’s a good chance you have some plants already in the ground that can withstand cooler temperatures and give you harvests well into winter with a little planning. Plants in the brassica family for example have the ability to produce a type of natural anti-freeze that converts into sugars and makes the plants taste even better after a frost. But you can extend their life even further by utilizing frost covers which act as a cozy winter blanket and keep out the wind chill and moisture that causes the most damage to these cold hardy plants. These covers act as a shield against harsh frost, preserving the warmth around the plants and preventing frost damage. It's a simple yet effective measure to safeguard your garden and extend your harvest.

Benefits of Mulch

We aren’t the only ones who benefit from an extra blanket or two in the winter months. A layer of mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or straw around perennial plants acts as insulation, protecting their roots from extreme temperatures. It also helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds, contributing to the overall well-being of your garden beds during the winter months. A good rule of thumb is to use four to six inches of mulch around the plants - just don’t press the mulch up against the plant itself. We are insulating the roots, not the aboveground parts.

Using cold frames/cloches

A cold frame works by creating something like a mini-greenhouse, trapping warm air through solarization inside of the box and insulating the plants within from the worst that winter has to offer. We control the temperature inside of the cold frame with a simple vent - the hinged lid can be propped open with different sized sticks to allow excess heat to escape on warmer days, but for the most part in our deep New England winters the lid stays firmly shut until we trudge through the knee deep snow to harvest.

If you have the time and physical ability, building a cold frame yourself is absolutely the most economical solution. Purchasing one ready-made can cost you anywhere from $60-$500 and quality issues on the low end of that budget will prevent you from getting many years of use out of it. Meanwhile, if you build one yourself it can be done for far less than the low end of that range, and produce an end result that will be sturdy enough to continue providing shelter to your winter crop for years to come. While old windows can be fragile and prone to breaking, when they can be found for free I still find it a better option than a new piece of corrugated plexiglass.

DIY CATTLE PANEL Hoop House

Hoop houses are used by growers in all types of climates for many different reasons - but the main goal is climate control, whether that is to make the growing area colder using the artificial shade created or warmer by taking advantage of the insulating properties of the covered area to effectively move your grow zone south.

If you’ve never seen a hoop house before, you probably have and just didn’t realize it! The basic idea is that you form some sort of rounded roof structure using metal rods, cattle panel or pvc that bends down and is anchored to the ground and cover that with heavy duty greenhouse plastic that lets light in but keeps wind out and provides some insulation.

You can build your own greenhouse easily in an afternoon with just the help of one other person, and you don’t need any special skills or carpentry experience either. The hardest part is honestly just getting the cattle panel - they are huge, so unless you have a truck you’ll probably need to rent something or have them delivered. Click here for my full guide to build your own DIY cattle panel hoop house.

Cold Tolerant Plants

Of course, with any of these methods you still won’t create tropical conditions for your plants if you live in a colder climate. So it’s important to stick with plants that are known to tolerate temperatures down to about thirty degrees fahrenheit. Here’s a list of everything I’ll be growing this winter:

Gai Choy Mustard

This mustard matures in 40-60 days and grows anywhere from six to ten inches wide and ten to twelve inches tall. This is a head forming traditional Chinese mustard with a mild flavor when it’s young.

Bloomsdale Spinach

This is a dependable, open pollinated variety that matures in 28-45 days and grows about six to eight inches tall with dark green, thick and curly leaves. It’s a prolific grower with tender leaves and rich flavor.

Common Sorrel

This green has been popular in France and England for centuries but for some reason it isn’t as popular in the states. It matures in 60 days with bright green crinkled leaves that have a lemony spinach flavor.

Easter Egg Radish

This blend has red, white, pink purple and bi colored radishes that mature in just 30 days. Easter egg is a mild and crisp radish that forms small one inch globe shaped roots, so if you don’t like the spiciness of other radishes you may want to try this one.

French breakfast radish

These radishes are super mild - almost sweet and mature in 28 days. The root is scarlet with a white tip about 1 inch around and 2 or 3 inches long.

Spanish black radish

This is an extra large medium spicy radish that matures in 60-70 days with a black exterior and white interior. The globes are about 3-4 inches in diameter when mature. Since this is a winter radish it needs shortening day length and cool temps to mature, so this one gets planted later than the other radish varieties I’m growing.

Bok Choy Choko

I can’t live without this for my stir fries and this variety is so good and tender when harvested when it’s only about four inches tall. It matures in around 50 days and has smooth, leafy blades in a cluster with crisp, pale green stems. Choko was bred to be small and heat tolerant.

Big Seeded Mache

Mache can survive temperatures down to ten degrees fahrenheit and matures in 60 days. It’ll grow to be about six inches tall and eight inches in diameter with dark green, spoon shaped soft leaves in a loose rosette.

Tokyo Long White Bunching Scallion

These Japanese scallions are long, slender, mild and mature in 65 days. They are sweet enough to use in pretty much anything from salads, soups, and stir-fry dishes and grow about 16-18 inches tall.

Olesh Tres Fine Endive

This is a mildly bitter flavored green with a really interesting frilly texture that matures in 42-70 days. It grows about six inches wide and tall in rosettes with broad crinkled green leaves.

Ruby Red Swiss Chard

Chard can withstand moderate freezes and matures in 50-60 days, growing about 24 inches tall and eighteen inches wide with dark green crinkled leaves, red veins and stalks. I use this the same way I use spinach

Danvers Carrot

This variety was actually created an hour from where I live way back in the day when growers were looking for a carrot with improved yield, color and uniformity. It matures in about 65 days. It’s a sweet classic carrot that’s resistant to cracks and splits and roots grow about six inches long/

Astro Arugula

I said I would never grow this, but there’s very few foods I actively dislike and I have a personal rule that I re-try foods I hate about once a year in different forms or varieties and since arugula is so cold hardy, I had to bite the bullet with this and try a new type to see if I can learn to love it. Astro matures in 32-55 days and supposedly has more of a mild flavor than other varieties when the plants are young so I’m hopeful.

Mizuna Mustard

This tender Japanese mustard is milder than other varieties and ready to harvest in 30-50 days. It can grow up to a foot tall and wide but it’s usually harvested when it’s smaller.

Rosette Tatsoi

This beautiful leafy green is more flavorful than traditional bok choy and matures in 45 days. It is super cold tolerant down to 15 degrees fahrenheit and can be harvested even in the snow. It grows pretty low and wide with spoon shaped dark green thick leaves in a rosette.

Tendergreen Mustard

This is also called mustard spinach, but it’s not actually mustard OR spinach. It’s super easy to grow, hardy and productive and matures fast in 30 days to be about two feet tall and up to two feet wide with smooth dark green glossy leaves.

Are you team take a break for the winter, or keep growing?

How To Grow Pumpkins In The Garden: Everything You Need To Know [Guide]

Pumpkins are a versatile and nutritious vegetable that comes in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and flavors. From the delicate and tender to the rich and sweet, pumpkins, there is a pumpkin variety to suit every palate. Pumpkins are not only delicious but also packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and dietary fiber, making it a healthy addition to any diet. Their vibrant colors and unique textures make it a visually appealing ingredient that can elevate any dish. Whether you're looking to make comforting soups, hearty stews, vibrant salads, or even sweet desserts, pumpkin can be a go-to ingredient.

Growing pumpkins allows you to explore a wide range of varieties that may not be readily available in stores. You can experiment with heirloom or lesser-known varieties, each offering unique flavors and characteristics. This opens up a world of culinary possibilities, as you can tailor your dishes to your preferences and discover new and exciting flavor profiles.

WHAT KINDS OF PUMPKINS CAN YOU GROW?

The classic Jack-O'-Lantern Pumpkin boasts a large, round shape and a vibrant orange hue, perfect for carving spooky faces during Halloween. On the sweeter side, the Sugar Pie Pumpkin is smaller and squat, ideal for crafting delicious pies and desserts with its deep orange flesh. For a touch of fairy tale charm, the Cinderella Pumpkin features a flat, deeply ribbed profile in a reddish-orange shade, excellent for both roasting and decorative use.

Opting for a unique aesthetic, the White Pumpkin with its creamy or pale white skin can be used interchangeably with traditional pumpkins in various dishes, adding a visual twist. If seeking a classic pie pumpkin with a twist, the Long Island Cheese Pumpkin flaunts a flat, cheese-wheel shape in tan with light ribbing, lending itself well to pies, soups, and baking. For those drawn to a blue-gray appearance, the Jarrahdale Pumpkin serves as a delightful option, suitable for roasting, mashing, and decorative purposes.

Adding a touch of whimsy, the Fairytale Pumpkin features a flattened and deeply lobed structure in a reddish-orange hue, perfect for roasting and purees, while also bringing a charming aesthetic to dishes. The Musquee de Provence Pumpkin, with its ribbed, squat form and greenish streaks, offers an aromatic sweetness suitable for baking, soups, and decorative applications.

For a playful twist, the Pink Banana Pumpkin stands out with its long, slender shape and pinkish-orange hue, bringing a sweet, banana-flavored note to baking, purees, and creative culinary endeavors.

Rounding out the list, the Galeux d'Eysines Pumpkin captivates with its salmon-colored skin adorned with peanut-like warts, delivering a smooth and sweet flavor profile perfect for soups, stews, and as an eye-catching decorative item. Each pumpkin variety is a canvas for culinary creativity, promising a delightful array of flavors and textures for every kitchen experiment.

WHERE SHOULD YOU PLANT PUMPKINS?

Pumpkin plants thrive in full sun, so it is essential to select a growing site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight is crucial for the growth and development of pumpkins plants, as it helps them produce ample foliage and ensures optimal fruiting. Therefore, choose a location in your garden that is not shaded by trees, buildings, or other structures.

In addition to sunlight, pumpkins plants require well-draining soil. They prefer soil that is loose, fertile, and rich in organic matter. Well-draining soil prevents waterlogging, which can lead to root rot and other diseases. To improve drainage, you can amend heavy clay soil with organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. This helps create a looser soil structure, allowing water to flow through and preventing excess moisture retention around the plant's roots.

Pumpkin plants can spread and occupy a significant area, so ensure that you have sufficient space for the plants to grow and sprawl without overcrowding other crops or plants. Adequate spacing allows for good air circulation and helps prevent the development of fungal diseases.

STARTING PUMPKINS PLANTS FROM SEED

This method involves directly sowing pumpkins seeds into the soil or starting them indoors and later transplanting the seedlings. Sowing seeds directly in the garden is a simple and cost-effective approach. On the other hand, starting seeds indoors allows for earlier planting and a head start on the growing season.

Pumpkin seeds should be planted when the soil has warmed up and all chances of frost have passed. This is typically in spring when the soil temperature reaches around 60°F (15°C) or higher. Ensure that the soil is well-draining and enriched with organic matter. Remove any weeds or debris and break up clumps of soil. Plant pumpkins seeds about 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep into the soil. Space the seeds 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart in rows, or follow the spacing guidelines specific to the variety you are planting. You may also plant three seeds in a hill formation. After planting the seeds, thoroughly water the area to ensure good seed-to-soil contact and proper moisture for germination. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged as the seeds germinate and the seedlings emerge. Once the seedlings have emerged and developed their first set of true leaves, thin them out if they are planted too closely together. Thin the seedlings to the desired spacing, typically leaving the healthiest and strongest ones.

Using seedlings from a nursery offers the advantage of a shortened time to harvest, as the plants are already established. It can be particularly beneficial in areas with a shorter growing season or for gardeners who prefer a more convenient option. Seedlings provide a head start in the growing process, allowing you to harvest pumpkins earlier than if you were to start from seeds, but buying seedlings can be more expensive compared to starting from seeds, and seedlings may experience some level of transplant shock when moved from the controlled environment of the nursery to your garden. This shock can temporarily slow down growth and require extra care during the transition.

HOW TO GROW PUMPKINS VERTICALLY

Vining pumpkins tend to spread out and take up a lot of garden space. By providing support or trellises, you can train the vines to grow vertically, saving valuable space in your garden. When vining pumpkins plants are trained upwards, they allow for better airflow around the foliage, reducing the chances of diseases caused by excessive moisture and promoting overall plant health. Growing vining pumpkins vertically makes it easier to locate and harvest the fruits. The pumpkins hang down from the trellis, making them more visible and accessible.

To provide support for vining pumpkins, you can use trellises, stakes, or cages. Install the support structure at the time of planting or when the plants are young to avoid disturbing the roots later. As the vines grow, gently train them to climb the support structure, securing them with garden ties or soft twine if needed. Be sure to choose sturdy supports that can handle the weight of the developing fruits.

WATERING PUMPKIN PLANTS

Pumpkin plants have high water needs, and lack of moisture can lead to stunted growth and poor fruit development. Aim to provide about 1 to 1.5 inches (2.5 to 3.8 cm) of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Fluctuating moisture levels can cause stress to the plants and lead to issues like blossom end rot or fruit cracking. Water the plants deeply, ensuring the moisture reaches the root zone. Mulching around the plants can help retain soil moisture and reduce water evaporation.

MULCHING PUMPKIN PLANTS

A layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture by reducing water evaporation. This is especially important during hot and dry periods when water availability is crucial for healthy plant growth. Mulch acts as a natural weed barrier, preventing weed growth and competition with pumpkins plants for nutrients and water. This reduces the need for frequent weeding, saving time and effort. Mulch helps regulate soil temperature by keeping it cooler in hot summer months and providing insulation during cooler periods. This creates an ideal environment for root development and overall plant growth.

PUMPKIN PESTS AND DISEASES

Squash bugs: These insects feed on the leaves, stems, and fruits of pumpkin plants, causing wilting, yellowing, and decline. They can be identified by their flat, shield-shaped bodies and dark brown or gray color.

Squash vine borers: The larvae of these pests bore into the stems of pumpkin plants, causing wilting, dieback, and eventual plant death. Adult vine borers are clear-winged moths.

Cucumber beetles: These beetles can transmit diseases and damage leaves, flowers, and fruits of pumpkin plants. They are typically yellowish-green with black stripes or spots.

Organic pest control methods can help manage pumpkin pests effectively while minimizing the use of synthetic pesticides. Consider the following approaches:

Row covers: Use lightweight fabric row covers to physically exclude pests from reaching the plants. Cover the plants soon after planting and secure the edges to prevent pests from entering.

Beneficial insects: Encourage the presence of natural predators and beneficial insects in your garden, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps. These insects prey on pumpkin pests and help control their populations.

Pumpkin plants are susceptible to several diseases that can affect their overall health and productivity. Here are some common diseases that may affect pumpkins:

Powdery mildew: This fungal disease appears as a white, powdery coating on the leaves, stems, and fruits of pumpkin plants. It can cause leaf yellowing, stunting, and reduced fruit production.

Bacterial wilt: This disease is caused by bacteria that clog the water-conducting tissues of pumpkin plants, leading to wilting and eventual death. It is often transmitted by cucumber beetles.

TO PREVENT AND MANAGE PUMPKINS DISEASES, CONSIDER THE FOLLOWING MEASURES:

Crop rotation: Avoid planting pumpkins in the same area of the garden year after year. Rotate your crops to different locations to reduce the buildup of disease-causing pathogens in the soil.

Remove and destroy any infected plant debris to prevent the spread of diseases. This includes removing and disposing of infected plant parts, fallen leaves, and fruits.

Select pumpkin varieties that have resistance or tolerance to common diseases prevalent in your area. This can help reduce the risk of infection and improve plant health.

HOW TO HARVEST PUMPKINS

When it comes to harvesting pumpkins, there are a few signs that indicate the fruits are mature and ready to be picked. Look for pumpkins with firm skin and vibrant color. Depending on the variety, the skin may be tough and resistant to scratching or denting. Additionally, the stem connecting the pumpkins to the vine should be dry and starting to wither.

To harvest pumpkins properly, use a sharp knife or pruning shears to cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a small stem at least one inch long attached. Avoid pulling or twisting the pumpkins, as this can damage the plant and reduce the quality of the fruit. Handle the pumpkins with care to prevent bruising or puncturing.

HOW TO CURE PUMPKINS

Curing is particularly important for pumpkins varieties you want to store long term to last the winter. After harvest, wipe the outside down with soapy water and allow the pumpkins to cure in a warm and well-ventilated area for a period of time, typically about 1 to 2 weeks. This process toughens the skin, enhances flavor, and extends their storage life. During curing, the pumpkins should be kept in a single layer, allowing air circulation around each fruit.

HOW TO STORE PUMPKINS

Storing pumpkins properly is essential to maintain their quality and extend their shelf life. Winter pumpkins can be stored for several months when stored correctly. Keep them in a cool (50-55°F or 10-13°C), dry, and well-ventilated area. Avoid storing winter pumpkins near fruits that produce ethylene gas, such as apples, as this can cause premature ripening and spoilage.

Growing your own pumpkins can be a rewarding experience that provides you with fresh, flavorful, and nutritious produce. By following proper harvesting and storage techniques, you can enjoy your homegrown pumpkins for an extended period, adding versatility and delicious flavors to your meals. Start your own pumpkin garden, explore different varieties, and savor the many culinary possibilities that pumpkins have to offer.

Step-By-Step Tips For Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Using Asparagus [Guide]

Renowned for its tender spears, asparagus brings a unique taste to dishes and adds a touch of elegance to any meal. Its mild yet distinctive flavor pairs well with a variety of ingredients, making it a favorite among chefs and home cooks. Whether sautéed, grilled, roasted, or used in creamy soups and savory tarts, asparagus always delivers a delightful culinary experience.

But the advantages of growing asparagus extend beyond its exquisite flavor. One of the most appealing aspects of cultivating asparagus is its long lifespan. Unlike annual vegetables that require replanting every year, asparagus plants can thrive for up to 20 years or more with proper care. This longevity translates to an abundant supply of fresh asparagus spears, providing you with a steady harvest for many seasons to come.

Furthermore, asparagus boasts a high yield potential, making it a rewarding crop to grow at home. Once established, a well-maintained asparagus bed can produce a generous harvest year after year. With patience and dedication, you can enjoy an ample supply of succulent spears, giving you the freedom to indulge in your favorite asparagus-based recipes throughout the growing season.

Additionally, asparagus is a nutritious addition to your diet. Packed with vitamins A, C, and K, as well as folate and dietary fiber, it offers a range of health benefits. Asparagus is also low in calories and sodium.

What asparagus variety should you grow?

When it comes to choosing asparagus varieties for your garden, you have several options to consider. Each variety has its own unique characteristics, including spear color, thickness, and flavor profile.

'Mary Washington': This is one of the most popular asparagus varieties among home gardeners. It produces medium to large-sized green spears with a traditional asparagus flavor. 'Mary Washington' is known for its vigorous growth and high yield potential. It is well-adapted to various climates and is moderately resistant to diseases, making it a reliable choice for many gardeners.

'Jersey Giant': If you're looking for thick, tender spears, 'Jersey Giant' is an excellent option. This variety is known for its robust growth and the ability to produce large-sized, green spears with a slightly sweeter flavor compared to other varieties. 'Jersey Giant' performs well in a wide range of climates and exhibits good disease resistance, making it a popular choice for both home gardeners and commercial growers.

'Purple Passion': For those seeking a unique twist to their asparagus harvest, 'Purple Passion' is a standout variety. This striking cultivar produces vibrant purple spears that turn green when cooked. Not only does it add visual interest to your garden and plate, but it also offers a slightly sweeter and more delicate flavor compared to traditional green asparagus varieties. 'Purple Passion' thrives in both cool and warm climates and demonstrates good disease resistance.

Choosing Where to Grow Asparagus

Asparagus plants require full sun to thrive and produce a bountiful harvest. Choose a site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. Avoid areas with excessive shade from trees, buildings, or other structures that may block sunlight and hinder the plant's growth.

Asparagus prefers well-draining soil to prevent waterlogging and root rot. It is crucial to select a location with soil that drains well, as waterlogged soil can lead to the decline of asparagus plants. Avoid low-lying areas or places prone to water accumulation. If you have heavy clay soil, consider amending it with organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve drainage.

Asparagus is a long-lived perennial plant that can remain productive for 15 to 20 years or even longer. Therefore, it's important to choose a permanent location for your asparagus bed. Asparagus plants develop deep and extensive root systems, so it's best to avoid transplanting them once they are established. Plan ahead and choose a spot where your asparagus bed can remain undisturbed for many years.

To prepare the soil, start by removing any weeds or grass from the area. Dig the soil to a depth of about 12 to 18 inches and remove rocks, roots, and debris. Incorporate organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the soil to improve its fertility, drainage, and water-holding capacity. This will provide a nutrient-rich environment for your asparagus plants to thrive.

Additionally, consider adding a balanced organic fertilizer to provide essential nutrients for the asparagus plants. Follow the recommended application rates based on the product instructions and the results of a soil test, if available.

How to Plant Asparagus

When it comes to planting asparagus, there are two main methods you can choose from: planting from crowns or growing from seeds. Each method has its own advantages and considerations.

Planting from Crowns

Planting asparagus crowns is the most common and recommended method, as it allows you to establish your asparagus bed more quickly and ensures a higher success rate.

Selecting Crowns: Purchase high-quality asparagus crowns from a reputable nursery or garden center. Look for healthy, firm crowns with intact roots. It's best to choose varieties that are known to perform well in your region.

To plant asparagus crowns, dig trenches or furrows in the prepared bed, with a depth of about 6 to 8 inches. Space the trenches about 3 feet apart to allow enough room for the asparagus plants to spread and grow. Place the asparagus crowns at the bottom of the trenches, spacing them about 12 to 18 inches apart.

Gently spread the roots of each crown in the trench and cover them with 2 to 3 inches of soil. Gradually fill in the trenches as the asparagus plants grow, ensuring that the crowns are fully covered with soil by the end of the planting process.

After planting, water the asparagus bed thoroughly to help settle the soil and promote root establishment. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or shredded leaves, around the plants to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and maintain a more consistent soil temperature.

Growing Asparagus from Seed

Growing asparagus from seeds requires more patience and time, as it takes longer for the plants to establish and reach maturity. However, it can be a cost-effective method, especially if you have access to asparagus seeds or want to experiment with different varieties.

Start asparagus seeds indoors about 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date in your area. Plant the seeds in seed trays or pots filled with seed starting mix, sowing them at a depth of about ¼ inch. Keep the soil consistently moist and provide warmth and adequate light for germination.

Once the seedlings have developed several sets of true leaves and the danger of frost has passed, they can be transplanted into the garden bed. Space the seedlings about 12 to 18 inches apart in rows or in a designated asparagus bed.

Remember that growing asparagus from seeds requires more time and patience compared to planting crowns. However, it can be a rewarding and cost-effective option if you are willing to wait for the plants to mature.

Caring for Asparagus Plants

Regular watering is essential for asparagus plants, especially during dry spells or periods of prolonged heat. Asparagus requires consistent moisture to thrive.

Mulching is beneficial for asparagus beds as it helps retain soil moisture, regulate soil temperature, and suppress weed growth. Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw, wood chips, or shredded leaves, around the base of the asparagus plants. This will help conserve moisture in the soil, reduce the need for frequent watering, and provide insulation during extreme weather conditions.

Weed control is essential for asparagus plants, as weeds compete with the asparagus for nutrients, water, and sunlight. Regular weeding is necessary to prevent weed growth and keep the asparagus bed free from competition. Remove weeds by hand or use a hoe or cultivator to gently loosen the soil and uproot any unwanted vegetation. Be careful not to disturb the shallow roots of the asparagus plants while weeding.

What are Asparagus Ferns?

Asparagus ferns are the leafy, feathery growth that emerges from mature asparagus plants. These ferns play a crucial role in the health and vitality of the asparagus plant. They collect sunlight and convert it into energy through photosynthesis, which is then transported to the plant's roots to nourish them. This energy helps the roots develop and store nutrients for the next growing season.

Cutting back asparagus ferns at the appropriate time is essential for maintaining the health and productivity of the asparagus plant. After the ferns have turned yellow or brown in the fall, you can prune them back to the ground. This pruning helps prevent the ferns from self-seeding and conserves energy for the roots. By cutting back the foliage, the plant can redirect its resources towards root development and nutrient storage during the dormant period.

Using sharp pruning shears or scissors, carefully remove the ferns at ground level. Be sure to dispose of the cut foliage to prevent any potential diseases or pests from spreading.

Common Asparagus Pests

Asparagus plants may encounter pests that can affect their growth and productivity. Two common pests that target asparagus plants are asparagus beetles and aphids.

Asparagus beetles are small, elongated insects that feed on asparagus foliage and lay eggs on the plants. Both the adult beetles and their larvae can cause damage to the foliage, leading to reduced plant vigor and yield.

Aphids are tiny, soft-bodied insects that can cluster on the undersides of asparagus leaves and feed on their sap. Their feeding can cause stunted growth, yellowing of leaves, and distorted foliage.

Harvesting and Storing Asparagus

Asparagus spears should be harvested when they reach a height of 6 to 8 inches. This usually occurs in the second or third year after planting, once the plants have become established. Harvesting too early may result in thin, weak spears, while waiting too long may lead to tough and woody stalks.

To harvest asparagus you don’t need any tools. Just hold the spear near the base of the plant and bend to the side until the spear snaps off at its natural breaking point. Harvesting spears regularly promotes the development of new spears and encourages continued growth throughout the season.

Storing Asparagus

Asparagus is best stored in the refrigerator to maintain its freshness. To do this, wrap the spears in a damp paper towel or place them in a glass of water. Store them in the vegetable crisper section of your refrigerator, where they can stay fresh for up to one week.

Caring for Asparagus Over the Winter

Asparagus plants require proper care during the winter months to ensure their survival and maintain their health for the following growing season. One essential task is cutting back the ferns. In late fall or early winter, after the foliage has turned yellow or brown, use pruners or shears to cut the ferns down to ground level. Removing the dead foliage prevents disease and pests from overwintering in the plant debris.

Adding organic mulch around asparagus beds offers several benefits during the winter season. A layer of mulch helps insulate the soil and regulate temperature fluctuations, protecting the asparagus crowns and roots from extreme cold. Organic mulch, such as straw, hay, or compost, also helps retain moisture and suppress weed growth. Apply a thick layer of mulch, about 2 to 3 inches deep, around the base of the asparagus plants, taking care not to bury the crowns.

Growing asparagus in your own garden can be a rewarding and satisfying experience. From selecting the right varieties to planting, caring, and harvesting, the process allows you to enjoy the delectable flavor of fresh asparagus while reaping the numerous health benefits it provides. Start your own asparagus garden, savor the taste of homegrown goodness, and experience the satisfaction of harvesting your own spears.

Step-By-Step Tips For Growing, Harvesting, Storing, and Using Broccoli [Guide]

Broccoli is not just a delicious vegetable; it's also a nutritional powerhouse. Packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, broccoli offers numerous health benefits. It is rich in vitamin C, vitamin K, fiber, and folate, making it a valuable addition to a healthy diet. Furthermore, broccoli contains compounds like glucosinolates, which have been linked to reducing the risk of certain cancers. Introducing broccoli into your meals can be a great way to boost your overall well-being.

Growing broccoli in your own garden brings a host of advantages. One of the most significant benefits is having access to fresh and pesticide-free produce. When you grow broccoli at home, you have complete control over the cultivation process, ensuring that no harmful chemicals are used on your plants. This allows you to enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing exactly what you're consuming. Additionally, harvesting your own vegetables can be an immensely rewarding experience. There's a sense of pride and satisfaction in tending to your plants and watching them flourish. Plus, the taste of freshly harvested broccoli is unparalleled, as it retains its crispness and flavors that can be lost during transportation. By growing broccoli in your garden, you can indulge in the delights of homegrown goodness and elevate your culinary creations to new heights.

What Type Of Broccoli to Grow In Your Garden

When it comes to choosing broccoli varieties for your garden, there are several popular options to consider. Green Magic, known for its compact size, is an excellent choice for smaller gardens or container gardening. It produces medium-sized heads with tight, deep green florets. Belstar, another popular variety, is prized for its excellent flavor and large, dome-shaped heads. It has a slightly longer maturity time, but the wait is well worth it. Calabrese is a traditional Italian variety and one of the most widely grown types of broccoli. It produces large heads with blue-green florets and has a relatively shorter maturity period compared to other varieties.

Each broccoli variety possesses unique characteristics that may influence your choice. Green Magic typically produces heads that are around 6-8 inches in diameter, making them suitable for individual or small-sized households. Belstar, on the other hand, can yield larger heads, reaching up to 10 inches in diameter, making it ideal for families or those who enjoy preserving or freezing their harvest. Calabrese tends to have medium to large-sized heads, averaging around 7-9 inches in diameter.

When selecting broccoli varieties, it's important to consider their suitability for different climates and growing seasons. Green Magic and Belstar are known for their versatility and adaptability to a wide range of climates. They can be grown in both cool and warm seasons, making them suitable for areas with varying temperature fluctuations. Calabrese, being a traditional variety, thrives in cooler climates and is best grown as a fall or early spring crop in regions with mild winters. Understanding the specific growing requirements of each variety will help you select the best broccoli types that align with your local climate and growing season.

Where to Grow Broccoli

Broccoli thrives in full sun, so it is crucial to choose a growing site that receives at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. Sunlight is essential for the development of healthy and robust broccoli plants and ensures optimal head formation. Select a location in your garden that is not shaded by trees or buildings to maximize sun exposure.

When choosing the right location for planting broccoli, consider several factors. First, ensure that you have adequate space for the plants to grow and spread. Broccoli plants typically require about 18 to 24 inches of space between each plant, so plan accordingly. The chosen site should also receive ample sunlight throughout the day to promote healthy growth and head development. Avoid planting broccoli in areas shaded by buildings, tall plants, or trees that may obstruct sunlight. Additionally, consider the protection of your broccoli plants from strong winds. Broccoli plants have shallow root systems and can be easily toppled by strong gusts, so selecting a location shielded by structures, fences, or windbreaks can help protect them from wind damage.

Starting Broccoli Plants From Seed

To start broccoli from seeds, begin by filling seedling trays or small pots with a seed-starting mix. Sow the seeds about ¼ to ½ inch deep, spacing them around 2 inches apart. Gently cover the seeds with soil and lightly tamp it down. Water the seeds thoroughly but avoid overwatering, as broccoli seeds can rot in excessively wet conditions. Place the trays or pots in a warm location with temperatures around 70 to 80°F (21 to 27°C) for optimal germination. Keep the soil consistently moist and provide adequate airflow to prevent damping off disease. Once the seedlings have developed two to four true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted into the garden.

Using Transplants for Broccoli

Using transplants for broccoli offers several advantages. Firstly, it reduces the time it takes for the plants to mature and produce heads, allowing you to enjoy your homegrown broccoli sooner. Transplants also provide a level of convenience, as they can be purchased from nurseries or started indoors and then moved outside when the weather and soil conditions are favorable. However, there are considerations to keep in mind. Transplants may experience transplant shock when moved to a new location, especially if not properly hardened off. Harden off transplants by gradually exposing them to outdoor conditions over the course of a week before transplanting. Additionally, transplants may have limited root development compared to direct-sown seeds, so take care not to disturb the roots during transplanting to ensure successful establishment.

How to Plant Broccoli

Before planting broccoli, it is important to prepare the soil properly. Start by clearing the area of weeds or any other vegetation that may compete with the broccoli for nutrients and space. Incorporating compost or well-rotted organic matter into the soil can improve its fertility and drainage. This will provide the broccoli plants with the necessary nutrients for healthy growth.

When it comes to planting broccoli, spacing is crucial. Each broccoli plant should be given enough space to allow for proper air circulation and growth. Allow for a twelve inch squash area for each broccoli plant. Dig a hole slightly larger than the root ball of the transplant or seedling. Place the plant in the hole, making sure the crown of the plant is level with the soil surface. Gently firm the soil around the plant, ensuring it is well-supported but not compacted.

Providing adequate spacing between broccoli plants is essential for their overall health and development. Sufficient spacing allows for proper air circulation, which helps prevent the buildup of moisture and reduces the risk of fungal diseases such as powdery mildew. It also gives the plants room to spread out and develop robust foliage and heads. If the plants are crowded together, they may compete for sunlight and nutrients, resulting in stunted growth and smaller heads. By allowing for ample spacing, you can ensure that each broccoli plant has enough room to thrive and reach its full potential.

Caring for Broccoli Plants

Regular watering is crucial for the proper growth and development of broccoli plants. Broccoli requires consistent moisture, especially during dry periods, to prevent stress and promote healthy foliage and head formation. Water deeply, providing enough moisture to reach the root zone of the plants. It is important to avoid overwatering, as excessive moisture can lead to root rot and other diseases. Aim to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Mulching around the plants can help retain moisture and reduce water evaporation from the soil surface.

Weed control is essential for the well-being of broccoli plants. Weeds compete with broccoli for nutrients, water, and sunlight, which can hinder their growth and development. Regularly remove weeds from the vicinity of broccoli plants, either by hand-pulling or using appropriate gardening tools. Mulching with organic materials like straw or wood chips can also help suppress weed growth around the plants. By minimizing weed competition, you can ensure that your broccoli plants receive the necessary resources to thrive.

Fertilizing broccoli plants is important for providing them with the nutrients they need for optimal growth and production. Before planting, incorporate well-rotted compost or organic matter into the soil to improve its fertility. Broccoli benefits from balanced organic fertilizers with an NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) ratio of approximately 10-10-10 or similar. Apply the fertilizer according to the package instructions, typically at planting time and again during the growing season. Additionally, foliar feeding can be beneficial by spraying a diluted organic liquid fertilizer directly onto the foliage, providing a quick nutrient boost.

Mulching is a beneficial practice for broccoli plants. Applying a layer of organic mulch, such as straw, wood chips, or compost, around the base of the plants offers several advantages. Firstly, mulch helps conserve soil moisture by reducing evaporation, thus reducing the frequency of watering. Secondly, it acts as a barrier against weed growth, minimizing weed competition and the need for manual weeding. Finally, mulch helps regulate soil temperature by insulating the soil, keeping it cooler during hot weather and warmer during cool periods. Apply mulch around the base of the plants, taking care to keep it away from direct contact with the stems to prevent potential rot or disease issues.

Broccoli Pests and Diseases

Broccoli plants can be susceptible to various pests that can hinder their growth and damage the foliage and heads. Common pests that may affect broccoli include cabbage worms, aphids, slugs, and caterpillars. Cabbage worms are green caterpillars that can feed on the leaves, causing significant damage. Aphids are small insects that suck sap from the plant, leading to stunted growth and distorted leaves. Slugs are nocturnal pests that feed on the leaves and can leave behind slime trails. Monitoring your broccoli plants regularly and being able to identify these pests will help you take timely action to prevent severe infestations.

When it comes to pest control in broccoli, organic methods are often preferred to minimize the use of synthetic chemicals. One effective method is to use floating row covers, which are lightweight, permeable fabrics that create a physical barrier around the plants. Row covers prevent pests from reaching the plants and laying eggs. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewings, can also be introduced into the garden to prey on pests like aphids.

Harvesting and Storing Broccoli

Harvesting broccoli at the right time is crucial to ensure the best flavor and quality. Signs of broccoli maturity include compact heads with tightly closed buds. The heads should be firm and dense, without any yellowing or flowering. Avoid waiting too long to harvest, as over-mature broccoli can become tough and develop a bitter taste. It's better to harvest a bit early than to let the heads become too mature.

When harvesting broccoli, it's important to use a sharp knife or garden shears to cut the main head at a slant, about 5 to 8 inches below the head. Make the cut clean and avoid damaging nearby developing side shoots. Cutting the main head encourages the growth of smaller side shoots, which can be harvested later for a continuous supply of broccoli. Harvest the side shoots when they reach a suitable size, typically 2 to 4 inches in diameter.

Harvesting broccoli at the right time is crucial for optimal flavor. If left on the plant for too long, broccoli heads can become over-mature, with open buds and a stronger, less desirable taste.

After harvesting, there are different methods for storing broccoli. For short-term storage, you can place the unwashed heads in the refrigerator. To maintain freshness, it's best to store broccoli in a perforated plastic bag or wrap it in a damp paper towel. This will help retain moisture without causing excessive condensation. For long-term storage, blanch the broccoli by briefly immersing it in boiling water, then cool it rapidly in ice water before draining and packaging it in airtight containers or freezer bags. Properly blanched and frozen broccoli can be stored for several months.

Growing broccoli in your own garden offers numerous benefits, from its high nutritional value to its culinary versatility. Broccoli is packed with essential vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, making it a valuable addition to a healthy diet. By following the steps outlined in this blog post, you can successfully grow your own broccoli and enjoy the satisfaction of harvesting fresh, flavorful heads. From choosing the right variety to providing optimal growing conditions, each stage of the process contributes to a successful broccoli harvest.

Remember, broccoli is not only nutritious but also a versatile ingredient that can be used in stir-fries, salads, soups, and more. So, get started on your broccoli garden and relish the goodness and flavor it brings to your meals. Happy gardening!