Asian Jumping Worms: What We Know

Last fall, I was digging in one of my garden beds to plant garlic when I came across the largest worm I had ever seen. Quickly, my heart jumped into my throat - I had heard about these extra large, extra wriggly worms and knew that they were not a good sign for my garden. This turned into a full on panic as I dug up various spots throughout the yard and found they were spread out across the entire acre of land. An infestation of jumping worms that I knew meant trouble for my soil health and ability to grow thriving vegetable plants in ground.

To my horror, as I began frantically googling, it slowly dawned on me that there is surprisingly little known about these worms and how to effectively eradicate them. Cutting them in half just causes one worm to duplicate into two, burning them seems cruel, and when I tried to drown them in a bucket of water, they somehow managed to quickly climb out…and that my friends is how I ended up with a gallon size baggie of worms frozen in my freezer. Freezing them felt like the most ethical way to deal with them, as they basically just go into a deep sleep and never wake up, but still - I was left nauseous and horrified.

What are jumping worms?

Jumping worms, scientifically known as Amynthas spp., are a group of invasive earthworms native to East Asia. They are also commonly referred to as crazy worms, snake worms, or Alabama jumpers. These worms are distinguished by their unique behavior of thrashing and writhing vigorously when handled or disturbed, which gives them the appearance of "jumping." Unlike traditional earthworms, which burrow deep into the soil, jumping worms typically reside in the upper organic layer, where they feed on decaying organic matter, leaf litter, and root systems.

One of the most alarming characteristics of jumping worms is their ability to quickly degrade the soil structure and organic matter. They consume large quantities of organic material and leave behind castings that, unlike earthworm castings, are devoid of nutrients, altering the composition and texture of the soil in negative ways. This rapid decomposition can lead to significant changes in soil fertility, moisture retention, and nutrient availability, detrimentally affecting plant growth and ecosystem dynamics.

Jumping worms are highly adaptable and can thrive in various environments, including forests, gardens, and agricultural fields. They reproduce rapidly and have been known to easily outcompete native earthworm species, disrupting soil ecosystems and native plant communities. Additionally, their presence can attract predators and disrupt food webs, further impacting the balance of local ecosystems. While they die back in areas with cold winters, their microscopic eggs survive the chill to hatch next spring.

Due to their invasive nature and destructive impact on soil health, jumping worms pose a significant threat to natural ecosystems and agricultural systems alike. Efforts to control and manage their spread are essential to mitigate their negative effects and protect biodiversity.

How do you identify jumping worms?

Jumping worms are very large and often have a translucent, milky-white to grayish-brown coloration, with a slightly iridescent sheen. Jumping worms have a slim, cylindrical body with a smooth and uniform appearance. One of the most distinctive characteristics of jumping worms is their behavior when handled or disturbed. They exhibit a unique thrashing or writhing motion, resembling "jumping" or "dancing." When picked up or exposed to light, jumping worms may quickly retract and thrash around vigorously.

Jumping worm vs earthworm

But how can you tell jumping worms from beneficial garden earthworms? Unlike earthworms,The clitellum on a jumping worm is milky white to gray-colored, smooth and completely encircles the body of the worm. In contrast, the clitellum of European earthworms does not wrap entirely around the worm. Jumping worms are generally larger in size compared to traditional earthworm species, typically ranging from eight to twelve inches in length.

How did jumping worms get to the USA?

Jumping worms are native to East Asia, specifically regions such as Japan, Korea, China, and parts of Southeast Asia. Within their native range, they play a role in ecosystem processes and are part of the natural soil fauna. The introduction of jumping worms to new regions outside of their native range is attributed to human activities.

There are several common pathways through which jumping worms can be inadvertently transported. Jumping worms may be transported via potted plants, root balls, or soil associated with ornamental plants. They can hitch a ride in nursery stock or gardening supplies, allowing them to spread to new locations. The movement of mulch, compost, or soil amendments from infested areas can facilitate the spread of jumping worms. These materials may contain eggs, cocoons, or even adult worms, which can establish new populations when introduced to suitable habitats.

Landscaping projects, such as transplanting, grading, or soil disturbance, can inadvertently spread jumping worms to new areas. Construction projects, garden renovations, and land clearing activities may disturb soil ecosystems, allowing jumping worms to be dispersed. Outdoor recreational activities, such as hiking, camping, fishing, and gardening, can also inadvertently transport jumping worms from infested areas to new locations. Soil clinging to footwear, equipment, or vehicles can serve as a means of transport.

Once introduced to new regions, jumping worms can establish populations rapidly, aided by their prolific reproduction and ability to thrive in a variety of habitats. Their invasive nature and disruptive effects on soil ecosystems highlight the importance of preventing their spread and implementing measures to manage and control their populations in affected areas.

Where have jumping worms been found?

As an invasive species, jumping worms have been reported in numerous countries and regions, including:

• United States: Jumping worms have been documented in many states across the U.S., including but not limited to:

• Midwest: Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio, Wisconsin

• Northeast: Connecticut, Maine, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New York, Pennsylvania, Vermont

• Southeast: Alabama, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia

• West: California, Oregon, Washington

• Canada: Reports of jumping worms have emerged in several provinces, such as Ontario and Quebec.

• Europe: Jumping worms have been observed in countries like the United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, and the Netherlands.

• Australia: There have been reports of jumping worms in various parts of Australia, although they are not as widespread as in some other regions.

• Asia: In addition to their native range in East Asia, jumping worms have also been reported in other parts of Asia due to human-mediated transport.

How to get rid of jumping worms

Managing and controlling jumping worms requires a multifaceted approach that aims to limit their spread, reduce their populations, and mitigate their impact on ecosystems. While complete eradication of jumping worms may be challenging, various strategies can help manage and control their populations. We need to raise awareness among the public, gardeners, and landscapers about the threat posed by jumping worms and the importance of preventing their spread.

To reduce the spread of jumping worms, we should minimize the transport of soil, mulch, compost, and plant materials from infested areas to uninfested sites, especially during landscaping, gardening, and restoration activities, and establish monitoring programs to track the distribution and abundance of jumping worms in affected areas. We can also implement practices that disrupt jumping worm populations such as solarizing soil, although these methods may also impact native soil organisms and soil structure.

How to kill jumping worms

Chemical control methods for jumping worms are currently limited, and there are no widely accepted chemical treatments specifically targeting jumping worms. Some studies have explored the potential use of certain soil amendments, such as lime or biochar, to modify soil conditions and suppress jumping worm populations, although more research is needed to evaluate their effectiveness and potential impacts.

It is not known if jumping worms have any potential natural enemies, predators, or parasites that could be used as biological control agents, and this approach requires careful consideration to avoid unintended consequences and ecological disruptions. It is not safe to feed jumping worms to chickens or use them as fish bait, because they retain heavy metals and toxins from the soil.

An integrated approach combining prevention, monitoring, cultural practices, and research is essential for managing and mitigating the impacts of jumping worms on ecosystems and agricultural systems. Effective management strategies will require ongoing collaboration, adaptive management, and interdisciplinary efforts to address this invasive species threat.

It may seem like managing jumping worms is a hopeless endeavor, but while some adaptation is required and additional measures are needed to control soil health and quality, there are many home gardeners learning through experience different ways to keep jumping worms from destroying their gardens. The reality is that soil health needs to be a priority through aggressive composting and mulching efforts, which are practices that every gardener should be employing for thriving plants regardless of whether or not they have jumping worms in their garden beds yet. This is still a relatively new issue that is actively being researched, so many new developments are possible in the coming years that could help to control invasive jumping worms in the United States.

Debunking Soil Myths: Solving The Mysteries Behind Good Soil Health

What’s so important about garden soil anyway?

Soil provides the foundation for plant growth. Different plants have specific soil requirements in terms of texture, composition, and pH levels. Understanding the soil allows gardeners to choose plants that are well-suited to the conditions, promoting healthier and more robust growth.

Soil serves as a reservoir for essential nutrients that plants need for their growth and development. By understanding soil composition, gardeners can identify nutrient deficiencies or excesses and adjust fertilizer applications accordingly. This ensures that plants receive the right balance of nutrients for optimal health.

Soil influences water retention and drainage. Some soils retain water well, while others drain quickly. Understanding soil characteristics helps gardeners implement appropriate watering practices. Overwatering or underwatering can lead to problems like root rot or dehydration, so a balanced approach is essential.

Knowledge of soil types and structures enables gardeners to implement erosion control measures. Certain plants and groundcovers can help prevent soil erosion, ensuring that valuable topsoil is retained and not washed away during heavy rainfall.

Soil structure, influenced by its texture and organic matter content, plays a role in aeration and root penetration. Gardeners can take steps to improve soil structure, such as adding organic amendments, which enhances the overall health of the soil and facilitates better plant growth.

Knowledge of soil conditions allows gardeners to tailor their gardening practices to the specific needs of their plants. This includes choosing appropriate planting times, selecting suitable varieties, and implementing effective weed control strategies.

What are the Key Factors Impacting Soil Health?

Several key factors influence soil health. The relative proportions of sand, silt, and clay in the soil determine its texture. Different textures impact water retention, drainage, and nutrient availability. The amount of organic material in the soil affects its fertility, structure, and water-holding capacity. Organic matter improves soil structure and provides essential nutrients for plant growth.

The pH level of the soil indicates its acidity or alkalinity. Different plants have specific pH preferences. Soil pH influences nutrient availability, microbial activity, and overall plant health. Essential nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrients, are crucial for plant growth. Soil testing helps determine nutrient levels, allowing gardeners to adjust fertilizer applications based on plant needs.

Healthy soil is teeming with microorganisms like bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. These microbes play a vital role in nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and disease suppression. A diverse and active microbial community contributes to soil fertility.

Soil structure influences water retention and drainage. Sandy soils drain quickly but may not retain enough water, while clayey soils can retain water but may drain poorly. Ideal soil structure balances water retention and drainage.

Adequate aeration is crucial for root health and microbial activity. Compacted soil restricts air movement, leading to poor aeration. Practices such as tilling and adding organic matter can improve soil aeration. Soil erosion can degrade soil health by removing the topsoil layer. Factors like slope, rainfall, and vegetation cover influence erosion rates. Implementing erosion control measures, such as cover cropping and mulching, helps protect soil.

Biodiversity in the soil includes a variety of plants, microbes, and other organisms. Diverse ecosystems contribute to soil health by enhancing nutrient cycling, pest control, and overall ecosystem resilience.

Exploration of Soil Texture (Sand, Silt, Clay)

Soil is composed of mineral particles, organic matter, water, and air. The relative proportions of three main mineral particles—sand, silt, and clay—determine the soil's texture. Each type of soil particle has distinct characteristics, influencing the soil's properties and its suitability for different plants.

Sand particles are the largest among the three soil types, with diameters ranging from 0.05 to 2.0 millimeters. Sandy soil feels gritty and coarse to the touch. Sand has excellent drainage due to large particles, but water retention is low. It has good aeration, as sand allows air to move freely through the soil, but low fertility, as sand doesn't retain nutrients well. It is suitable for plants that prefer well-draining soil, such as cacti and succulents.

Silt particles are smaller than sand but larger than clay, with diameters ranging from 0.002 to 0.05 millimeters. Silty soil feels smooth and flour-like when dry and slippery when wet. Silt has oderate drainage and retains water better than sand. It compacts more easily than sand and is better at retaining nutrients than sand but not as well as clay. It is suitable for a wide range of plants, but benefits from organic matter to improve fertility and structure.

Clay particles are the smallest among the three, with diameters less than 0.002 millimeters. Clay soil feels smooth and sticky when wet and hard and clumpy when dry. Clay has poor drainage but retains water very well. It easily becomes compacted, but has high fertility. Clay soil is suitable for plants that tolerate or benefit from moisture retention, such as certain vegetables and water-loving plants.

Understanding the soil texture in a particular area helps gardeners make informed decisions about plant selection, watering practices, and soil amendments. Loam is a balanced soil type that contains a mixture of sand, silt, and clay, offering good drainage, aeration, and fertility. Gardeners often aim to improve soil structure by adding organic matter, which benefits all soil types by enhancing water retention, nutrient availability, and overall soil health.

Why You Should Add Organic Matter to Soil

Organic matter is a cornerstone of soil health, influencing nutrient availability, soil structure, water retention, and overall ecosystem dynamics. Organic matter acts as a reservoir for essential nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. It has the ability to retain and slowly release these nutrients to plant roots, ensuring a steady supply for optimal growth.

Organic matter improves soil structure by promoting the formation of aggregates. This enhances soil porosity, allowing for better water infiltration and root penetration. Well-structured soil facilitates root development and provides aeration. It also increases the soil's water-holding capacity. It can absorb and retain water, making it available to plants during dry periods. This is especially beneficial in sandy soils with poor water retention.

Organic matter serves as a food source for soil microbes. Microorganisms, including bacteria and fungi, break down organic matter into simpler compounds, releasing nutrients in a form that plants can absorb. This microbial activity contributes to overall soil fertility. It has a buffering effect on soil pH. It helps stabilize soil pH levels, preventing rapid fluctuations. This is important because many plant nutrients are most available within specific pH ranges.

Some components of organic matter, like certain compounds produced during decomposition, can have suppressive effects on soil-borne diseases. This contributes to the overall health of plants in the soil. And the improvement of soil structure through organic matter helps prevent soil erosion. Stable soil structure reduces the risk of topsoil being washed away during heavy rainfall.

Common Myths About Soil

Myth 1: Fertilizer Can Fix Any Soil Issue

While fertilizers are valuable tools for enhancing soil fertility and promoting plant growth, they come with certain limitations that need to be considered. Fertilizers typically provide specific nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, they may not contain the full spectrum of micronutrients and trace elements that plants need for optimal growth. Over-reliance on specific fertilizers may lead to nutrient imbalances.

Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to overapplication of nutrients. This not only wastes resources but can also have detrimental effects on the environment. Nutrient runoff from fields into water bodies can contribute to water pollution and ecological imbalances. The production, transportation, and application of synthetic fertilizers have environmental implications. The manufacturing process often involves energy-intensive procedures, and the runoff of excess nutrients can contribute to issues like algal blooms and waterway pollution. Continuous reliance on fertilizers without considering soil health and organic matter can create a dependency on external inputs. This may lead to a decline in natural soil fertility and long-term sustainability issues.

Certain fertilizers can influence soil pH. For example, nitrogen-based fertilizers can contribute to soil acidification over time. This can impact nutrient availability and the overall health of the soil. Some fertilizers, especially those containing high concentrations of salts, can lead to salt accumulation in the soil. This can be harmful to plant roots, affecting their ability to take up water and nutrients.

Plants may not utilize all the nutrients provided by fertilizers. Factors such as soil conditions, weather, and plant health can affect the efficiency of nutrient uptake. Unutilized nutrients may contribute to environmental pollution. Fertilizers provide a short-term solution to nutrient deficiencies. While they can boost plant growth in the immediate term, they do not address underlying soil health issues. Sustainable practices, such as incorporating organic matter, are necessary for long-term soil fertility.

Myth 2: All Soils Are the Same

Soils are incredibly diverse, and their variations arise from a combination of factors such as climate, parent material, topography, vegetation, and time. The geological material from which soils develop, known as parent material, greatly influences soil properties. Different types of rocks and minerals contribute distinct minerals to the soil, impacting its texture, nutrient composition, and overall characteristics.

Climate plays a significant role in soil formation. The amount and distribution of rainfall, temperature fluctuations, and freeze-thaw cycles all contribute to the physical and chemical weathering of rocks. These weathering processes shape the texture and composition of soils in a particular region.

The landscape, or topography, influences how water moves across the soil. Sloped areas may experience more erosion, leading to differences in soil depth and composition. Flat or valley regions may accumulate sediments differently, resulting in varied soil profiles.

The types of plants that grow in an area impact soil characteristics. Plants contribute organic matter through leaf litter and root systems, influencing soil structure, nutrient cycling, and microbial activity. Different vegetation types lead to variations in soil organic content. The presence and activity of soil organisms, such as bacteria, fungi, earthworms, and insects, contribute to soil diversity. Biological processes, including decomposition and nutrient cycling, vary across different ecosystems, shaping the unique characteristics of soils.

The acidity or alkalinity of soils, represented by pH levels, can vary widely. Different plants have specific pH preferences, influencing the types of vegetation that thrive in a particular soil and, consequently, the characteristics of that soil. Specific geographical features, such as river valleys, hills, and coastal plains, contribute to variations in soil types. The proximity to water bodies, elevation changes, and drainage patterns all play roles in shaping the unique characteristics of soils in different regions.

Myth 3: Vinegar as weed killer won’t damage soil

The myth that vinegar as a weed killer won't damage soil stems from the belief that because vinegar is a natural substance, it won't have negative impacts on the soil. However, this notion oversimplifies the complexity of soil ecosystems and the potential consequences of using vinegar as a weed killer. Vinegar is acidic, and its acetic acid content is what makes it effective in killing weeds. However, high acidity can have detrimental effects on soil pH. Excessive use of vinegar can lead to soil acidification, negatively impacting nutrient availability and the overall health of the soil. Soil is home to a diverse community of microorganisms crucial for nutrient cycling, decomposition, and overall soil health. The acidity of vinegar can potentially harm beneficial soil microbes, disrupting the balance of the soil ecosystem.

Vinegar-based weed killers are non-selective, meaning they can harm both weeds and desirable plants. Overspray or unintended contact with plants you want to keep can result in damage, affecting the overall plant diversity in the area.

Vinegar is a contact herbicide, meaning it primarily affects the parts of the plant it comes into direct contact with. It may not address the underlying causes of weed growth, such as soil compaction or nutrient imbalances, making it a short-term solution.

There are alternative, more sustainable practices for weed control that don't pose risks to soil health. For example, mulching, hand weeding, and maintaining proper plant spacing are methods that promote weed suppression without negatively impacting the soil.

Myth 4: Tilling is Always Beneficial

Tilling, or the mechanical cultivation of soil, has been a traditional practice in agriculture for centuries. While it can offer benefits in certain situations, there are instances where tilling the soil may not be a good idea due to various drawbacks. Tilling can disrupt the natural structure of the soil. It breaks down soil aggregates and destroys pore spaces, leading to compaction over time. This impairs water infiltration, root penetration, and air circulation, affecting overall soil health. Tilled soil is more susceptible to erosion, especially in areas with sloping terrain. The disruption of the soil surface removes natural protection against water and wind erosion, leading to the loss of valuable topsoil.

Tilling accelerates the decomposition of organic matter in the soil. Organic matter is crucial for soil fertility, structure, and water retention. Excessive tilling can deplete organic matter, leading to nutrient deficiencies and reduced soil quality. Tilling brings buried weed seeds to the surface, exposing them to light and promoting germination. This can lead to increased weed growth, counteracting the initial purpose of tilling.

Tilling disrupts the habitat of soil microorganisms. Beneficial microbes play a key role in nutrient cycling, organic matter decomposition, and disease suppression. Excessive tilling can harm these microbes, impacting soil fertility and ecosystem balance. And while tilling initially loosens the soil, repeated or improper tilling can contribute to long-term soil compaction. The disruption of soil structure and creation of a plow pan can hinder water movement and root development.

Conservation tillage and no-till practices have gained popularity as alternatives to traditional tilling. These methods help maintain soil structure, reduce erosion, and conserve moisture while minimizing the negative impacts associated with frequent and intensive tilling.

WHAT SOIL IS BEST FOR RAISED BEDS?

The best soil for traditional raised beds that sit on the ground is a mix of topsoil, compost, and sand. Topsoil provides nutrients and drainage. Compost improves the soil quality. And sand helps to aerate the soil. You can buy a pre-made mix of soil for raised beds or you can make your own. I always recommend Coast of Maine soil mixes for filling raised beds. Their Castine Blend™ Organic & Natural Raised Bed Mix is the ideal soil for raised bed organic gardening. It is carefully formulated to provide balance between structure, water retention, drainage and aeration for growing strong, vigorous vegetables, herbs and flowers in raised beds, planter boxes or other container gardens. It provides your garden the rich and diverse soil it needs.

Coast of Maine prides themselves on using a high quality enriched blend of fully cured compost, sphagnum peat moss, dehydrated poultry manure, lobster and crab shell meal, greensand, biochar, worm castings and mycorrhizae in their mixes. Close attention to detail with frequent turning, sampling and testing plus a lengthy aging and curing process produces dark, rich compost that builds soil and enhances plant growth.

If you are gardening in elevated raised beds like mine that are on legs, these are technically considered container gardens. It is important to use a lightweight potting mix (which has no actual soil in it) since your container gardens have different drainage and weight requirements.

Composting for Beginners: Lomi Bloom Smartwaste Appliance Review

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What is Composting?

Composting is a method of breaking down food waste and other organic matter into usable, nutrient dense soil by creating an environment which encourages decomposition through a microbial process. Composting creates a valuable fertilizer that can support and feed plant life. Most compost is made with a combination of kitchen scraps, paper, grass clippings, leaves, small twigs and brush, which when exposed to water, oxygen, heat, worms and other organisms create the conditions necessary for decomposition.

Benefits of Composting

So why should you compost? It all comes back to the kitchen.

• 24% of solid waste in landfills today is food waste, making it the most common material found in landfills

• 22% of solid waste that is incinerated is food waste

• 50% of the volume of waste that North Americans send to landfills each year is compostable materials.

• 80 billion pounds or 30-40% of the food supply is discarded every year in the United States.

Why does it matter if we waste food? Landfills are anaerobic and do not have the right conditions to properly break down food, and food waste in landfills releases methane, a potent greenhouse gas up to 36 times more effective than carbon dioxide at trapping heat in the atmosphere. In the harsh sunlight of the upper atmosphere, methane can react with other gasses to form water vapor, which then breaks down into other chemicals that destroy ozone.

Different Composting Methods

You can compost in many different ways, but the top three are:

Outdoor Composting Bin or Pile System

This is my preferred method because there is little to no set up cost, but it does require enough space for at least one 4x4 foot pile and must be manually turned in order to increase oxygen and encourage decomposition. You are also limited in the types of food waste you can put into your compost. This means no meat, dairy, eggs, citrus peels, fat or grease, and if you don’t have the space or energy this won’t be an option.

Tumbler Composting Barrel

This is a popular system with a moderate upfront cost which can be used even in more urban settings as long as you have some amount of land to work with. Since the compost is contained, the smell and sight won’t offend any neighbors and it is less likely to attract animals. You are also able to easily aerate the compost by turning a handle on the side of the barrel. Like the pile option, you are also limited in the types of food waste you can put into your compost. This means no meat, dairy, eggs, citrus peels, fat or grease.

Vermicomposting with Worms

Vermicompost is much higher in nutrients than the compost from a regular backyard composter, and takes less time to break down. Worms are also relatively cheap to purchase making this a lower cost option if you’re homesteading on a budget. You can also use this method both indoors and outdoors. Like the two options above, you are limited in the types of food waste you can put into your compost. This means no meat, dairy, eggs, citrus peels, fat or grease.

Electric Smart Waste Appliances like Lomi Bloom

These appliances transform your food-waste into nutrient-rich plant-food at the push of a button. While they aren’t inexpensive, Lomi Bloom is able to break down large quantities of food waste quickly and easily with no physical strain of turning the compost, and it’s small enough to fit on your counter. You can also break down many of the food items that cannot be composted using traditional composting systems. This makes Lomi Bloom the best choice for composting for beginners and renters who might not have an outdoor space of their own.

Lomi Bloom SmartWaste Appliance

Lomi Bloom is the best way to break down your food waste into nutrient rich Lomi Earth, ready to be incorporated into your garden soil or potted plants. Lomi Earth is a little different every time you run a cycle because it is composed of just your food waste (plus microbes and fungi from your LomiPod if you include that in the cycle). This diversity benefits your plants as they are exposed to a wide variety of beneficial organisms and minerals extracted from your food waste.

Pela, the company that created Lomi Bloom, calls the end product of Lomi Bloom nutrient-rich Lomi Earth instead of compost' or soil because both other terms have very specific qualities, including the amount of time it spent forming.

So how can a smart waste appliance reduce your carbon footprint? Pela did the research. With the help of third party audits, they found that despite the electricity consumed, Lomi Bloom can produce a net-lower carbon footprint than that same organic waste going to landfill.

Pela's primary goal is to improve the world's health by eliminating waste. They can't do that if the creation of Lomi Bloom negatively impacts the environment. So, they worked hard to ensure Lomi Bloom's production is carbon negative, and is proudly certified as a Climate Neutral company and B Corporation.

Did you know that 43% of food waste in the U.S. happens at the household level? The average American family loses $2,000 in food waste every year. Lomi wants to help you make some of that back… and feel a lot less guilty for what you throw out. Lomi Bloom not only reduces your waste footprint, it also rewards you for getting rid of your waste the right way and enables you to actually track your impact and get rewarded for it. We all create food waste, but now - Lomi Bloom turns your trash into cash with Lomi Rewards. Earn points every time you run a cycle + redeem for free products from Lomi + other great brands. Save money on expensive store-bought fertilizer, reduce your carbon footprint, and get rewarded for upgrading the way you deal with waste.

How Does Lomi Work?

Lomi basically chops up the food into smaller bits by grinding it, then uses heat to remove any moisture - making it a breeze for tiny organisms to start breaking down the waste. Grinding also gives the compost some air, boosting oxygen and setting the stage for microbes that love oxygen.

Lomi Bloom Review - Is the Lomi Worth it?

Pela generously sent me my very own Lomi Bloom to try in exchange for my honest review, and I’m extremely impressed with what Lomi can do. Not only do I have a ton of vegetable and fruit cutoffs from the garden to compost, I have eliminated the struggle of stinky dairy and meat scraps sitting in the trash for longer periods of time causing me to have to replace the bag sooner. Since I cold compost outdoors already, I know firsthand just how much composting reduces my household waste and was frustrated that I still had food I needed to throw in the landfill. Lomi Bloom is easy to set up, and all of the packaging can be composted in Lomi Bloom when you’re done. I just added the included carbon filtering material to the two filter cartridges inside of Lomi, plugged it in and it was ready to run its first cycle.

Lomi Bloom is about the size of an air fryer, but since you’ll most likely use it every single day you probably won’t want to store it in a cabinet - so depending on how much counter space you have this may be an appliance that you need to move things around to make room for. Lomi Bloom also needs about 6-12 inches of space on all sides since it does warm up a small amount when running. I store mine in the least used corner of my counters and just pull it out to give it space on all sides while it runs overnight. The design of Lomi Bloom and the sage green color fits right in with most kitchens.

Review of Lomi composter

There are three modes on Lomi Bloom, all controlled by the universal power button making this super user-friendly. Here’s what Pela has to say about the three modes:

ECO EXPRESS:

This is the best mode if you’re looking for fast results and low energy consumption.

What can go in

Eco-Express mode is for food scraps and plant waste. Do not put bioplastics or compostable commercial goods and packaging in this mode.

What to do with the result

Toss it into your home compost or green bin. Or add more fresh food scraps & run a Grow mode to create nutrient-rich Lomi Earth for your houseplants, garden and lawn.

LOMI APPROVED:

This mode is your solution for Lomi Approved non-food compostable waste. With smart sensors that control grinding, heat and moisture, this mode breaks down Lomi Approved bioplastics and compostable products much faster than a traditional compost.

What can go in

Mix plenty of plant & food waste with Lomi Approved bioplastics and compostable products - they recommend a maximum of 10% non-food waste in each cycle.

What to do with the result

Toss it into your green bin.

GROW MODE:

Grow mode runs longest and at a lower temperature to create the highest quality Lomi Earth -- a natural fertilizer that’s exactly what your plants crave!

What can go in

Grow mode is for fresh fruit & vegetable scraps and plant waste. Do not put bioplastics or compostable commercial goods & packaging in Grow mode.

What to do with the result

Toss it into your home compost, green bin or garden at a 1:10 ratio with soil. For best results in your garden, add more fresh food scraps & run a Grow mode to create nutrient-rich Lomi Earth.

How Often To Run Lomi

I run Lomi Bloom about 2-3 times a week, always on Grow Mode unless I have bioplastics, packaging or processed/cooked foods. Lomi Bloom is quieter than most dishwashers and washing machines, so I find that running it overnight (which is when I usually start my dishwasher anyway) fits right into my routine. When the cycle is complete, Lomi Bloom beeps and then enters standby mode if you do not open within 30 minutes. I’ve been amazed by how transformed my food waste really is - a stinky pail of the worst moldy leftovers is turned into a dare I say pleasant smelling final product that is ready for the garden.

Is Lomi Bloom loud?

Lomi makes noise comparable to other small countertop appliances which is less than 60 dB. It’s around the same or less than a coffee maker or modern dishwasher.

Can I Run Lomi More Than Once Before Emptying?

You can run up to 3 cycles without emptying your bucket! In fact, adding Lomi Earth from the last cycle will improve the quality of the next cycle’s end product. Simply add more fresh food waste on top and start the next cycle! Just be sure to empty the bucket after 3 cycles because too much will strain the grinder.

How Much Energy Does Lomi Use?

Lomi uses between 0.6 to 1.0 kWh per cycle, depending on the mode and cycle time. Cycle times range from 5 hours to 20 hours. In comparison to other appliances, each Lomi's cycle uses roughly the same amount of power required to operate an oven for 15 minutes.

What to do About Lomi Bucket Residue?

Avoid adding too many high sugar foods to Lomi as that can result in sticky residue. Always add a diverse mixture of food waste in each cycle.

How To Clean Lomi Bloom?

To clean stuck residue, wash the Lomi bucket with hot soapy water or run a Cleaning cycle. Do not submerge Lomi in water. Only the bucket is dishwasher safe and can be submerged.

What are LomiPods and why do I need them?

LomiPods are microbial compost accelerators, activated by 50ml of added water. They are carefully tailored to enhance soil quality for your plants. Using a LomiPod increases the number of microbes in Lomi Earth.

My Lomi is squeaking, what can I do?

Avoid adding too many high sugar foods to Lomi as that can result in sticky build up under the grinder and causes a squeaky sound as it turns. If this occurs, simply soak the inside of the bucket with hot soapy water to loosen the residue, then wipe it away.

Does Lomi Bloom Have a Warranty?

Here’s what you need to know about the Lomi warranty: Lomi comes with a standard 1-year warranty. The warranty is non-transferable and proof of purchase is required to claim.

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From Compost to Amendments: Soil Solutions for Raised Garden Beds

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I’ve been gardening for most of my life in one form or another, but around ten years ago I was diagnosed with psoriatic arthritis, and since then I’ve had a whole decade to come up with the best gardening hacks to and gardening tools for gardening with chronic pain and low energy.

Psoriatic arthritis often confuses people who don’t have it - its cousins rheumatoid and osteoarthritis are far more common, so there’s a misconception that psoriatic arthritis isn’t as serious or doesn’t have as much of an impact on quality of life as these more well known forms of arthritis. The fact is that psoriatic arthritis is more than a skin condition. I experience severe joint pain and fatigue, just like someone with rheumatoid arthritis or osteoarthritis. I just get the added “bonus” of sensitive dry skin too. While exercise can help with my symptoms, it can also make them worse if I push myself too hard. I’ve had to learn my physical limitations by testing them, and they are a lot lower than someone living without an autoimmune disease. The idea that arthritis is an “old person's” condition is so pervasive that people often think it can’t really be that bad, especially since I don’t look sick and I’m not old. But invisible illnesses like arthritis and other autoimmune conditions can dramatically change your life, no matter your age or outward appearance.

In order to continue with my love of gardening even with arthritis, I invested in gardening tools that would make it possible for me to continue doing what I love. The biggest change I made in the garden to support my body came in the form of 6 new elevated garden beds from Gardener’s Supply Company.

Self-Watering Elevated Planter Box, 2' x 8'

These no-bend garden boxes keep plants hydrated via a series of innovative, connected reservoirs that deliver water to roots on demand. Four generous 5-gallon reservoirs extend the time between waterings and create more even moisture throughout the bed. And, since water is drawn primarily from the bottom instead of applied from the top, less water is lost to evaporation too! 10" planting depth accommodates a wide variety of crops, from tomatoes to root-crops like carrots.

The height of the planter box has other advantages too: fewer weeds, reduced maintenance, and fewer critters nibbling at your prize plants. The sturdy aluminum legs won't buckle or sag, and the wood is naturally rot-resistant and safe for your organic crops. Best of all, it allows me to garden at table-height, eliminating the bending and kneeling that makes gardening difficult on my joints. They are made of durable cedar wood with metal legs, and I like that the natural materials blend in seamlessly with the environment.

After building and placing my raised garden beds, it was time to fill them. But understanding what soil is best for raised beds isn’t always as straightforward as it seems. Filling raised garden beds will either set your garden up for success, or failure. The good news is once you’ve finished reading this post you’ll know exactly how to fill a raised bed cheaper, what to fill your raised beds with, what is the difference between garden soil and topsoil and more.

What should I fill my raised garden bed with?

The goal is to fill your raised garden beds with a mix of components that will deliver nutrients to your growing plants and encourage the right amount of water retention and drainage. You can accomplish this by putting organic matter such as old logs, sticks, grass clippings and leaf mold at the base, followed by a layer of topsoil and then finally a layer of compost.

The ratio that you use is going to depend on a lot of factors specific to your local climate. For example, in especially damp climates you’ll want to incorporate significantly more drainage. And, if you’re growing vegetables or other produce, you’re going to need a higher ratio of nutrient dense compost or fertilizer.

You can get bagged soil and compost from local nurseries, but it’s a lot more economical to have your soil delivered in bulk. For my six beds, I needed 3 yards of soil. I wanted to buy the soil in bulk because the cost would be less than half and I wouldn’t need to worry about recycling all those bags, but since my beds are raised off of the ground there’s no way they could support the weight of true garden soil - I needed a lightweight potting mix blend that would drain well but hold some moisture. I went with Coast of Maine potting mix because it’s some of the best soil you can buy, and the bags were recyclable at the same drop off points you can recycle your plastic shopping bags at in grocery stores.

If you do decide to get bagged soil, keep in mind that soil that is sold at big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot is questionable quality at best - in fact, last year there was a huge scandal because large amounts of this bagged soil were found to be contaminated with herbicides. It’s much safer to get your bagged soil or bulk soil from a local garden nursery that specializes in products meant for growing food and flowers. The last thing you want is to have all your hard work planning and planting your garden go to waste because your plants aren’t able to thrive in the soil that you used.

It’s very important not to underfill your beds. It will settle and sink down a lot more than you think. In addition, if you use too much organic matter like leaves this will cause your soil level to sink even more dramatically as the material decomposes throughout the season. This can happen pretty quickly. You’ll also need to top off your raised beds with a compost blend at the beginning of each new gardening season to accommodate for soil nutrients lost to plants using it up and general settling. A fresh layer of compost on top of your raised beds will revitalize the soil and make sure it is ready to continue helping your plants thrive for many years to come. You can also plant a cover crop in the fall to add additional nutrients to your soil, or use a mulch like wood chips that will slowly release nutrients as it breaks down.

How do you fill a raised bed cheaply?

If you’re on a tight budget for filling raised garden beds, I’d recommend the hugelkultur method. Hugelkultur is a centuries-old, traditional way of building a garden bed from rotten logs and plant debris. Buried in a hugelkultur bed, decomposing wood releases water and nutrients into the soil to conserve precious resources. This method is popular in permaculture and allows you to use less soil and more found organic matter that is free. Hugelkultur beds hold moisture extremely well and are great for dry climates. Don’t let a small budget keep you from gardening. There are many ways to improve the quality of your soil over time even if it isn’t that great in your first year.

Where can you find garden soil for raised beds?

The best place to find high quality garden soil for your raised beds is at your local garden nursery. Look for a topsoil/compost blend or raised bed mix. Sometimes you can even find local companies that offer residential composting services and then resell the compost as its own product. This is more common in rural areas.

What should you not put in a raised bed?

Avoid putting any painted or pressure treated woods in the base of your raised beds, as toxic chemicals can leach from the wood into your soil and plants.

What is the difference between garden soil and topsoil?

Garden soil is topsoil that has been enriched to make it better suited for plant growth. Amendments may include compost or other organic matter, and some soils – like perennial potting mixes – have added ingredients to encourage growth of specific types of plants.

Is topsoil OK for raised beds?

You should never use only topsoil for raised garden bed soil, or only compost. Your plants need a healthy balance of both in order to grow properly. This will depend on your climate and if any of your plants are heavy feeders that require lots of fertilizer. A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of one to one - fifty percent topsoil and fifty percent compost.

Do you need special soil for raised beds?

There are many specialized garden soil for raised beds mixes available both commercially as a pre-bagged product and in bulk from local nurseries. I always recommend getting the best soil for raised beds you can afford, since it is the building block that will nourish your growing plants and give it what it needs in order to produce well. These blends are most likely to give you the best results. But plants are resilient creatures, so if your budget is limited or you don’t have access to the highest quality soil for raised beds, don’t let that stop you from trying to grow! You can plant cover crops and add liquid fertilizer to improve the quality of your soil over time.

Are you filling raised garden beds this year?
let me know how you grow in the comments!

Nurturing Nature's Best: Why Healthy Garden Soil is Essential for a Productive Vegetable Garden

Rich garden soil is a thing of beauty. Dark and loamy, with a rich, earthy smell. It is the perfect medium for growing plants, and it is a pleasure to work with. I love to dig my hands into the soil in my garden. I can feel the potential for life humming beneath my fingertips, soft and crumbling and alive. The smell brings me back to this moment; feeling the warmth of the sun on my skin as I work in the garden.

Soil is more than just a place to grow plants. With my hands in the earth, I can relax and connect with nature. In this place it is easy to notice the beauty of the world around us. When I work in the garden, I feel a sense of peace and tranquility. I am surrounded by the beauty of nature, and I am reminded of the importance of taking care of our planet.

Garden Soil: The Foundation of Your Garden

Garden soil is the foundation of your garden. It provides the nutrients and minerals that your plants need to grow and thrive. It also helps to regulate the water and air in your garden. Without healthy soil, your plants can’t reach their full potential.

But what is garden soil? And how do you choose the right soil for your garden?

What is Garden Soil?

Garden soil is a mixture of topsoil, compost, and organic matter. Topsoil is the layer of soil that is on the surface of the ground. It is usually the most fertile layer of soil. Compost is made from organic materials, such as food scraps, yard waste, and manure. Organic matter helps to improve the structure and fertility of soil.

Microbes in the soil play an important role in plant health. They help to break down organic matter, release nutrients, and protect plants from pests and diseases. Microbes help to break down organic matter, which releases nutrients that plants can use. This can help to improve plant growth and productivity. They can also help to protect plants from pests and diseases by producing antibiotics or other compounds that kill or inhibit harmful organisms, increase soil fertility by breaking down organic matter and releasing nutrients, reduce soil erosion by binding the soil particles together and improve water quality by filtering out pollutants and removing harmful chemicals from the water. Recent studies have even found that inhaling some of these microbes while moving soil in your garden may have antidepressant effects.

How to Choose the Right Soil for Your Garden

The first step in choosing the right soil for your garden is to determine the type of soil that you have. You can do this by taking a soil sample and having it tested at a local nursery or garden center. But this isn’t strictly necessary. You can also run a more rudimentary test of your own to test the soil using a mason jar. Fill the mason jar 1/3 full of well-sifted soil and add water to almost the top of the jar with some dish soap. Shake the mixture up. As the soil/water mixture settles over 48-72 hours the sand, silt, and clay will separate forming horizons. Mark the jar at the top of the sand layer, the top of the silt layer, and the top of the clay layer. Measure the height of each layer and the total height of all three layers. This will tell you if your soil is primarily clay, silt or sand.

Once you know the type of soil that you have, you can choose the right soil for your garden. If you have sandy soil, you will need to add compost or organic matter to improve the drainage. If you have clay soil, you will need to add sand or gravel to improve the drainage.

You will also need to consider the pH of your soil. The pH scale measures how acidic or alkaline your soil is. A pH of 7 is considered neutral. A pH of less than 7 is acidic. A pH of greater than 7 is alkaline. Most plants prefer a pH of 6.5 to 7.5. If your soil is too acidic or too alkaline, you will need to add lime or sulfur to adjust the pH.

How to Prepare Garden Soil

Once you have chosen the right soil for your garden, you will need to prepare it. This involves removing any weeds or debris, and then adding compost or organic matter. You can also add a slow-release fertilizer to your soil. This will give your plants a boost of nutrients that will last throughout the growing season.

How to Care for Garden Soil

The best way to care for garden soil is to keep it healthy. This means adding compost or organic matter regularly, and watering your plants regularly so your soil doesn’t become hydrophobic. You should also test your soil pH regularly and adjust it as needed.

What is hydrophobic soil?

Hydrophobic soil occurs when a waxy residue builds up on the soil particles resulting in it repelling water rather than absorbing it. This can happen if you do not water consistently, or you don’t use mulching to protect the surface layer of your soil from drying out. You can tell that soil has become hydrophobic because the water will bead up and not soak into the earth normally. You can also confirm your soil is hydrophobic by digging down an inch or two beneath the soil after watering. The surface may look damp, but underneath the soil will be completely dry.

How to fix hydrophobic soil

The easiest way to correct hydrophobic soil is to amend it with nutrient rich compost. However, you most likely won’t be fixing the soil that is hydrophobic - you’re really just slowly replacing the soil that has gone “bad” by mixing in fresh new soil that can encourage better absorption.

What soil is best for raised beds?

The best soil for traditional raised beds that sit on the ground is a mix of topsoil, compost, and sand. Topsoil provides nutrients and drainage. Compost improves the soil quality. And sand helps to aerate the soil. You can buy a pre-made mix of soil for raised beds or you can make your own. I always recommend Coast of Maine soil mixes for filling raised beds. Their Castine Blend™ Organic & Natural Raised Bed Mix is the ideal soil for raised bed organic gardening. It is carefully formulated to provide balance between structure, water retention, drainage and aeration for growing strong, vigorous vegetables, herbs and flowers in raised beds, planter boxes or other container gardens. It provides your garden the rich and diverse soil it needs.

Coast of Maine prides themselves on using a high quality enriched blend of fully cured compost, sphagnum peat moss, dehydrated poultry manure, lobster and crab shell meal, greensand, biochar, worm castings and mycorrhizae in their mixes. Close attention to detail with frequent turning, sampling and testing plus a lengthy aging and curing process produces dark, rich compost that builds soil and enhances plant growth.

If you are gardening in elevated raised beds like mine that are on legs, these are technically considered container gardens. It is important to use a lightweight potting mix (which has no actual soil in it) since your container gardens have different drainage and weight requirements.

Coast of Maine generously donated an entire pallet of their premium Bar Harbor Blend Organic Potting Soil to fill my raised beds with this summer, giving my plants the foundation they need to thrive. This all-purpose potting soil is made with sphagnum peat moss, compost, perlite, lobster and crab shell meal and kelp meal. It is designed for potting indoor and outdoor container plants. They also sent their Stonington Blend Plant Food which I will use to top-dress my beds. Lobster, as well as other shellfish species like crab (often taken with lobster as a by-catch), has been harvested off the coast of Maine for centuries. When the shells and bodies are dehydrated and ground into a meal for use as a fertilizer, it provides an all-natural source of organic nitrogen and calcium for plants, especially during their vegetative growth phase. Natural nitrogen and calcium help promote strong stem growth, green foliage, and vigorous roots.

No matter what, it is important to use a soil that is well-draining and that contains nutrients.

To make your own mix, combine equal parts topsoil, compost, and sand. If you’re purchasing soil, try to find a nursery or landscaping company that will deliver in bulk - the cost will be significantly less and you’ll avoid the many plastic bags needed for bagged soil going to the landfill.

How do you fill a raised bed cheaply?

You can put small sticks, leaves or even logs (for deeper beds) in the base of your raised bed to take up some of the room before adding your soil. Just keep in mind that the soil level will lower significantly as those materials begin to break down.

Is topsoil ok for raised beds?

You should use topsoil in moderation in raised beds. It is important to mix topsoil with compost and sand to improve the drainage and aeration of the soil.

What should you not put in a raised bed to fill it?

There are a few things that you should not put in a raised bed to fill it. These include:

• Clay soil

• Rocks

• Garbage

• Weeds that have gone to seed

What is the difference between garden soil and raised bed soil?

The main difference between garden soil and raised bed soil is that raised bed soil is usually more fertile and well-draining.

What is the difference between garden soil and topsoil?

Topsoil is the layer of soil that is on the surface of the ground. It is usually the most fertile layer of soil. Garden soil is a mixture of topsoil, compost, and sand. If you plant your garden in just topsoil, your plants won’t have the right combination of nutrients and drainage to thrive.

How healthy is your garden soil?