Garden Planning Part 3: How To Start Seeds Indoors

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This is part three of my garden planning guide. For part one all about deciding what to plant, click here. For part two, all about planning your garden layout, click here. For part four, how to companion plant, click here.

Today we’ll cover when to start seeds indoors, how to germinate seeds, my favorite seed starting supplies and more.

I love growing my vegetable garden from seeds. What could be more gratifying than watching your plants grow from one tiny seed into a full grown plant ready to harvest? It is so fulfilling to nurture and care for these tiny bits of life and bring them to maturity.

I also love to feel the tie back to my ancestors through this process of growing. I know that not too many generations ago, my relatives would have tended their own little garden to support their family and put food on the table. I have combed through old family photos endlessly searching for evidence of this connection, but so much was lost through time. Considering industrial agriculture is a fairly modern concept though, it’s safe to say that the vast majority of our relatives have grown food at some point in their past. I feel this connection and find my way back to these ancestral roots through the soil.

How to start seeds Indoors

Let’s start with the basics: For many plants, you don’t need even technically need grow lights to start seeds for your garden. You can use winter sowing in milk jugs outdoors, or try starting seeds in egg cartons and even toilet paper rolls. I’ve tried all of these with mixed results. My method of choice used to be soil blocking. Soil blocking is just compressing soil into cubes using a mold and planting directly into that cube without any additional containers. Then you can bottom water those seedlings and build nice strong root structures with zero waste. This method words great for producing strong plants, but it comes with a learning curve that can make it frustrating as you need exactly the right type of soil, and I find it really hurts my hands and is too strenuous.

I’ve been starting seeds using seed cells and trays, but often these are not built to last, and in order to keep plastic out of our landfills and reduce the frustration that comes with cracking cells and flimsy trays, I’ve upgraded my seed starting setup with these extra durable 6-Cell Seed Starting Trays, these 4-Cell Seed Starting Trays and these 1020 Bottom Trays from Epic Gardening.

Each individual cell in these trays features an air pruning side slot on all four corners to discourage root circling and encourage better root growth.  The bottoms of each cell are also open providing air pruning at the lower end of each cell. Large, convenient finger holes in the bottom of each cell make it easy to remove seedlings when you're ready to transplant.

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If you’re growing heat loving crops like peppers and eggplant, you should also grab one of these heat mats for each tray.

So now that you have your tools, how do you know when to start planting seeds? Start too early, and your plants will outgrow their indoor containers before it is warm enough to move them outdoors. Start your seeds too late, and your plants won’t be mature by your last frost date. That last frost date is exactly where we will start our seed starting journey. This one is easy, I promise; you already know your grow zone from our previous post, so just Google “Last frost date + (your grow zone)” to find out when it’s safe to plant outdoors in your area, since this is the last date when all danger of a freeze has passed.

Next, go back to your list of everything you will be growing and open up Google. Search for each plant name + “when to plant”. For direct sown plants (that means we just put the seed directly into the soil outdoors) this will most often just be “after last frost” (unless it’s a cold hardy plant like spinach or kale which can usually be started a lot earlier) but for plants that need to be started indoors in order to mature before that last frost date, it will say something like “start indoors 8 weeks before last frost” Next to each line write down the planting timing. 

The benefit of using a spreadsheet when you are learning how to start seeds is that you can then sort the data in your list by the planting date instead of whatever order you had originally written them down in. This creates a planting schedule for starting plants from seed with just a click of a button. Otherwise you’re going to have to manually organize your list by planting date so you know what dates to do which tasks.

Should you use potting soil or seed starting soil?

Potting soil and seed starting soil are both designed to provide a suitable growing medium for plants, but they have some key differences based on the needs of plants at different stages of growth. Potting soil is a general-purpose mix that is formulated to support the growth of established plants, both indoors and outdoors. It often contains a blend of ingredients such as peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, pine bark, and sometimes added fertilizers. Potting soil may have added nutrients to support the nutritional needs of mature plants. Some formulations include slow-release fertilizers that provide nutrients over an extended period. Potting soil tends to have a coarser texture compared to seed starting soil. This coarser texture helps with drainage, aeration, and provides stability for larger plants.

Seed starting soil is specifically designed for germinating seeds. It typically consists of a lightweight and fine-textured blend, often containing ingredients like peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. Seed starting soil is often sterile, which helps prevent damping off and other soil-borne diseases that can affect germinating seeds and young seedlings. Seed starting soil is formulated to retain moisture well, providing the consistent moisture levels necessary for seed germination. This helps seeds absorb water and initiate the germination process. Seed starting soil usually has minimal nutrients because seeds initially rely on the nutrients stored within them. As the seedlings grow and develop true leaves, additional nutrients may need to be provided through fertilization. Seed starting soil has a finer texture compared to potting soil. This fine texture allows seeds to make good contact with the soil, facilitating germination.

Use seed starting soil when germinating seeds in trays or small containers. The fine texture and sterile nature help create an ideal environment for germination. Once seedlings have developed a few sets of true leaves, you can transplant them into larger containers with potting soil, which provides the nutrients and structure needed for more mature plants.

What grow light should you use for starting seeds?

Don’t overcomplicate this. Grab some LED strip grow lights like these, and a couple of timers to turn them on automatically. Unless you are going to grow your plants indoors for their entire lifecycle and need them to flower/fruit without sunlight, you do not need to worry about the specific spectrum of light you’re using nearly as much.

How many hours of light do seedlings need?

You should set your grow light timer to give your seedlings 12-18 hours of light per day. I usually set mine for 16 hours.

What is germination?

Germination the development of a plant from a seed or spore after a period of dormancy. Most of the time, your seeds will germinate (or sprout) themselves simply by being activated through the process of hydration. So, you’ll put your seed into the soil at the recommended depth, cover with soil and keep damp, and this increase in the moisture content will trigger the germination of the seed. However, it’s important to check the germination requirements for any seed you haven’t grown before. Some, such as peppers, require a higher temperature in order to germinate successfully. Others like spinach and lettuce prefer a cooler temperature to germinate. Some seeds will just be duds and never germinate - that’s why you’ll often plant multiple seeds in one cell and thin them later, to hedge your bets. You can improve the rate of germination of certain plants like peas, beans, pumpkins and other winter squash by soaking them prior to planting. But, to be honest, since I have fatigue from my arthritis I don’t usually do this step and it’s usually just fine as long as you have quality seeds.

How do you prevent damping off?

Damping off is a common problem when starting seeds, and it is caused by various types of fungi that attack young seedlings, causing them to rot at the soil line. To prevent damping off, you can take several precautions. Start with a high-quality, sterile seed starting mix. Sterilized soil helps eliminate the presence of damping off-causing fungi. Ensure that the containers or seed trays you use are clean and have been properly washed or sterilized before planting. This reduces the chances of introducing harmful fungi. Overwatering can create a favorable environment for damping off fungi. Water the seedlings from the bottom to keep the surface of the soil dry. Use a tray underneath the pots and allow the soil to wick up water as needed. Adequate air circulation helps prevent the buildup of humidity around the seedlings. Use a fan on low speed or open windows to provide ventilation, especially if you are growing seedlings indoors. You should also aim to maintain a moderate humidity level. High humidity can contribute to the growth of damping off fungi. Proper ventilation and spacing between seedlings can help manage humidity levels.

By implementing these practices, you can reduce the risk of damping off and give your seedlings a healthy start. If you notice any signs of damping off, remove affected seedlings immediately to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Thinning seedlings

Thinning seedlings is an important step in the early stages of plant growth to ensure that the remaining seedlings have enough space, nutrients, and sunlight to develop into strong, healthy plants. Allow the seedlings to grow to a height where they have at least two sets of “true leaves”. True leaves are the leaves that follow the initial seed leaves (cotyledons) and have the characteristics of the plant species. Identify the strongest and healthiest seedlings. Look for seedlings with vigorous growth, a good color, and well-developed leaves. This does not necessarily mean the tallest - a short, stocky seedling is a better choice than a thin, leggy one. Instead of pulling out the excess seedlings, which can disturb the roots of neighboring plants, use clean scissors or small pruners to cut the unwanted seedlings at soil level. This ensures minimal disruption to the roots of the remaining seedlings. If you are thinning edible plants like lettuce or carrots, you can eat the thinned seedlings. Thinning can be a way to enjoy some early greens from your garden. Otherwise, just toss them in your compost.

Starting a GArden Checklist

1. Pick and order your seeds (don’t forget to check out this blog post if you get stuck)

2. Plan your garden layout (see this post for my tips)

3. Write down the planting dates for every plant on your list - both the seed starting date and the date to transplant

4. Gather your supplies; soil, seeds, cell containers to grow in or a soil blocker and trays, a trowel, a tarp to keep your work area clean, and your light source

5. Work down your list of seeds from the first planting date to the last

6. Presoak any seeds that require it for germination

7. Plant your seeds at the recommended depth

8. Keep the soil moist at all times - you can cover with any clear material to keep the environment damp until the seeds sprout

9. Build strength in your seedlings stems by gently running your hands across the surface of your plants daily, and keep a fan on to prevent damping off/mold

10. Harden off your seedlings by bringing them outdoors to a protected spot out of direct sunlight and wind (up against your house will do). Start with one hour for the first few days, then increase it by an hour every day until they are able to stay outdoors for all daylight hours

11. Transplant your mature seedlings into the garden when it is safe to do so, usually after your average last frost date

What else do you want to know about starting seeds indoors?

Winter Sowing in Milk Jugs - How to Winter Sow Seeds [Tutorial]

You don't need an expensive grow light setup to start seeds for your garden. In fact, all you need is a humble milk jug, some soil, and seeds to kickstart your gardening journey. This simple and cost-effective method, known as winter sowing, allows you to harness the power of nature to germinate seeds and get a head start on your garden. In this blog post, we'll explore the step-by-step process of winter sowing using milk jugs, making it accessible to even the most novice gardeners.

Benefits of Winter Sowing

Wondering what is winter sowing? Winter sowing eliminates the need for expensive grow light setups, making it an incredibly budget-friendly option for seed starting. By using the power of natural sunlight and outdoor conditions, winter sowing mimics the seeds' natural environment, promoting healthier and more robust seedlings. This method allows you to get a head start on your cold-hardy spring crops, giving them a longer growing season and increased chances of success. With just a few basic supplies, you can embark on your gardening journey without the need for complex equipment.

How to winter sow seeds

Materials Needed

• Milk jug (or any similar plastic container)

• Soil

• Seeds

• Scissors or utility knife

• Duct tape

• Popsicle stick or other plant marker you can write on

• Permanent marker

Step 1: Prepare Your Milk Jug

Start by collecting empty milk jugs or similar plastic containers. Ensure that they are clean and free of any residue. Milk jugs or water jugs are ideal for this method due to their translucent nature, allowing sunlight to penetrate while providing a protective environment for your seeds.

Poke drainage holes in the base of the jug to prevent waterlogging. Adequate drainage is crucial for seedlings' health, preventing root rot and mold formation.

Step 2: Cut and Create a Hinge

Using scissors or a utility knife, carefully cut the milk jug in half, leaving a hinge along the side where the handle is located. This hinge will act as a connection point, allowing you to open and close the jug easily.

The hinged design serves a dual purpose – it provides easy access for planting and labeling while maintaining a protective cover for your seeds.

Step 3: Add Soil and Plant Seeds

Fill the bottom half of the milk jug with high-quality potting soil. Ensure that the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Plant your seeds according to the recommended depth and spacing for each type. This is also the perfect time to label your seeds inside the jug, preventing any labels from washing away during watering.

Choosing the right seeds is crucial for successful winter sowing. Opt for seeds that can withstand cold temperatures, such as self-seeding annuals and perennial plants suitable for your zone. This method is particularly effective for cold-hardy spring crops.

Step 4: Seal and Protect

After planting your seeds and labeling the jug, close the top half of the milk jug and tape it shut. This creates a mini greenhouse effect, trapping warmth and moisture inside. The tape also ensures that the jug remains securely closed, protecting your seeds from potential disturbances.

Remove the lid from the jug so it can vent properly and rain and snow can enter through the opening to keep the soil damp and place the milk jug in a sunny spot, ideally where it is sheltered from strong winds. This provides the optimal conditions for germination while protecting the seeds from harsh weather elements.

Can I use any type of plastic container for winter sowing, or is a milk jug essential?

While milk jugs are commonly used due to their translucent nature, you can experiment with similar plastic containers. Just ensure they are clean, have drainage holes, and provide some transparency for sunlight to reach the seeds.

How many drainage holes should I add to the base of the milk jug?

Adding 3-4 small drainage holes should be sufficient to prevent waterlogging. This ensures proper drainage while maintaining the necessary moisture for seed germination.

What soil should I use for winter sowing?

Using high-quality potting soil is recommended for optimal seed germination. Choose a mix that provides good aeration and drainage to support healthy root development.

Can I winter sow seeds that require warmer temperatures to germinate?

Winter sowing is best suited for seeds that tolerate cold temperatures. It's ideal for self-seeding annuals and plants that are naturally perennial in your zone. If you have warm-weather crops like tomatoes or peppers, consider other seed-starting methods indoors.

How often should I water the seeds inside the milk jug?

Since the jug is sealed, it retains moisture well, but it's essential to prevent the soil from drying out completely. You shouldn’t need to water your milk jugs unless there’s an unusually dry and warm period. Be cautious not to overwater, as drainage holes help avoid waterlogged conditions.

Can you winter sow tomatoes?

Winter sowing is most effective for cold-hardy plants and early spring crops. While it may work for tomatoes, it's best suited for those that can withstand colder temperatures and benefit from a longer growing season.

Where to place winter sowing containers

Choose a sheltered spot for placing the milk jug, such as near a building or behind a windbreak. If necessary, you can also place heavier objects around the jug to provide additional protection from strong winds.

Can I start winter sowing in any climate zone?

Winter sowing is adaptable to various climate zones. However, its effectiveness may vary depending on your specific climate. Adjust the timing and seed selection based on your local frost dates and weather conditions.

What should I do if mold develops inside the milk jug?

If mold appears, open the jug to increase ventilation, and reduce watering frequency. Ensure the soil surface is dry between waterings, and consider applying a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution to the affected areas to combat mold.

Can I reuse the milk jugs for multiple seasons of winter sowing?

While milk jugs are durable, they may degrade over time due to exposure to sunlight and the elements. It's advisable to inspect them before each season and replace any that show signs of damage or wear. Reusing jugs can be cost-effective, but ensure they are in good condition for successful winter sowing.

When to start winter sowing

You can begin winter sowing any time after the winter solstice (December 21st) because that is when daylight hours begin increasing again.

When should I transplant my winter sown seedlings into the ground?

Transplant your winter sown seedlings after your last frost date. Winter sown seedlings are generally much more cold hardy since they are already adapted and require no hardening off.

Best seeds for winter sowing

Winter Sowing Herbs:

Lavender (Lavandula): Lavender is a hardy herb that thrives in cooler temperatures, making it an excellent candidate for winter sowing. It appreciates well-drained soil and full sunlight.

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum): Chives are cold-tolerant and can be easily grown from seeds in milk jugs. They add a mild onion flavor to dishes and are a great addition to any herb garden.

Parsley (Petroselinum crispum): Parsley is a biennial herb that can withstand cold temperatures. Winter sowing provides an early start for this versatile herb, commonly used in culinary applications.

Winter Sowing Flowers:

Calendula (Calendula officinalis): Calendula, or pot marigold, is a self-seeding annual flower that thrives in cooler weather. Its vibrant orange and yellow blooms add beauty to gardens and can be winter-sown for early spring blossoms.

Sweet Alyssum (Lobularia maritima): Sweet Alyssum is a low-growing flower with a sweet fragrance. It's perfect for borders and containers and can be started in milk jugs for a head start on spring blooms.

Bachelor's Button (Centaurea cyanus): Bachelor's Button, or cornflower, is a cold-tolerant annual with striking blue flowers. Winter sowing allows you to enjoy its blooms earlier in the season.

Winter Sowing Vegetables:

Spinach (Spinacia oleracea): Spinach is a cold-hardy leafy green that does well with winter sowing. You can start spinach seeds in milk jugs to get an early harvest of fresh greens.

Radishes (Raphanus sativus): Radishes are quick-growing vegetables that tolerate cooler temperatures. Winter sowing radish seeds allows you to enjoy their crisp and peppery roots in early spring.

Kale (Brassica oleracea acephala): Kale is a cold-resistant leafy green that benefits from winter sowing. It's rich in nutrients and can be harvested early for delicious and nutritious greens.

Arugula (Eruca sativa): Arugula, with its peppery flavor, is an ideal candidate for winter sowing. This quick-growing green thrives in cooler temperatures, making it a perfect addition to your winter-sown vegetable garden. The young leaves are tender and can be harvested for salads or added to sandwiches, providing a burst of freshness.

Bok Choy (Brassica rapa subsp. chinensis): Bok Choy, a type of Chinese cabbage, is well-suited for winter sowing. Its crisp and mild-flavored stalks and dark green leaves are delicious in stir-fries and salads. Starting Bok Choy seeds in milk jugs allows for an early harvest and a continuous supply throughout the growing season.

Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica): Broccoli, a cold-tolerant vegetable, can be successfully grown from seeds in milk jugs. This nutritious and versatile vegetable benefits from an early start, providing you with homegrown broccoli for soups, salads, and side dishes.

Cabbage (Brassica oleracea var. capitata): Cabbage is a hardy and cold-resistant vegetable that can be started in milk jugs for an early crop. Whether you prefer green or red cabbage, winter sowing allows you to enjoy homegrown cabbage in various culinary creations.

Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea var. botrytis): Cauliflower, with its distinctive white head, is a cool-season crop that responds well to winter sowing. This method gives you a jumpstart on the growing season, ensuring a bountiful harvest of this versatile vegetable.

Endive (Cichorium endivia): Endive, known for its slightly bitter flavor, is an excellent choice for winter sowing. Growing endive from seeds in milk jugs provides you with a crisp and flavorful addition to salads and other dishes.

Leek (Allium ampeloprasum): Leeks, with their mild onion flavor, are cold-resistant and suitable for winter sowing. Starting leek seeds in milk jugs allows for an early harvest of these versatile vegetables, perfect for soups, stews, and as a flavorful addition to many recipes.

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa): Lettuce, a staple in salads, benefits from winter sowing. This method provides an early start for various lettuce varieties, ensuring a continuous harvest of fresh and crispy leaves for your salads and sandwiches.

Swiss Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp. cicla): Swiss Chard, with its colorful stems and nutritious leaves, is well-suited for winter sowing. This versatile green can be started in milk jugs, offering an early supply of homegrown Swiss Chard for cooking and salads.

Remember to check the specific requirements of each seed variety, as some may have preferences for soil conditions, sunlight, and watering. Additionally, consider your local climate and adjust the timing of winter sowing based on frost dates in your area.

Winter sowing in milk jugs is a simple yet effective method for starting seeds, even for those with limited gardening experience or resources. By harnessing the power of nature and utilizing everyday items, you can kickstart your garden without breaking the bank. Give winter sowing in milk jugs a try and watch as your seeds sprout into healthy seedlings, ready to be transplanted into your garden come spring. Happy gardening!