Extend Your Garden Season With These Techniques

With your garden prepped for winter, you may be ready to turn in and take a break from growing for a few months. But if you’re like me and the idea of the garden totally ending breaks your heart, there’s a few different ways we can extend our growing season and keep harvesting fresh food from the garden all year round. I’ll be using all of these methods in my own garden to grow cold loving crops while the snow falls.

How To Use Row Cover

There’s a good chance you have some plants already in the ground that can withstand cooler temperatures and give you harvests well into winter with a little planning. Plants in the brassica family for example have the ability to produce a type of natural anti-freeze that converts into sugars and makes the plants taste even better after a frost. But you can extend their life even further by utilizing frost covers which act as a cozy winter blanket and keep out the wind chill and moisture that causes the most damage to these cold hardy plants. These covers act as a shield against harsh frost, preserving the warmth around the plants and preventing frost damage. It's a simple yet effective measure to safeguard your garden and extend your harvest.

Benefits of Mulch

We aren’t the only ones who benefit from an extra blanket or two in the winter months. A layer of mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or straw around perennial plants acts as insulation, protecting their roots from extreme temperatures. It also helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds, contributing to the overall well-being of your garden beds during the winter months. A good rule of thumb is to use four to six inches of mulch around the plants - just don’t press the mulch up against the plant itself. We are insulating the roots, not the aboveground parts.

Using cold frames/cloches

A cold frame works by creating something like a mini-greenhouse, trapping warm air through solarization inside of the box and insulating the plants within from the worst that winter has to offer. We control the temperature inside of the cold frame with a simple vent - the hinged lid can be propped open with different sized sticks to allow excess heat to escape on warmer days, but for the most part in our deep New England winters the lid stays firmly shut until we trudge through the knee deep snow to harvest.

If you have the time and physical ability, building a cold frame yourself is absolutely the most economical solution. Purchasing one ready-made can cost you anywhere from $60-$500 and quality issues on the low end of that budget will prevent you from getting many years of use out of it. Meanwhile, if you build one yourself it can be done for far less than the low end of that range, and produce an end result that will be sturdy enough to continue providing shelter to your winter crop for years to come. While old windows can be fragile and prone to breaking, when they can be found for free I still find it a better option than a new piece of corrugated plexiglass.

Builing a Hoop House

Hoop houses are used by growers in all types of climates for many different reasons - but the main goal is climate control, whether that is to make the growing area colder using the artificial shade created or warmer by taking advantage of the insulating properties of the covered area to effectively move your grow zone south.

If you’ve never seen a hoop house before, you probably have and just didn’t realize it! The basic idea is that you form some sort of rounded roof structure using metal rods, cattle panel or pvc that bends down and is anchored to the ground and cover that with heavy duty greenhouse plastic that lets light in but keeps wind out and provides some insulation.

You can build your own greenhouse easily in an afternoon with just the help of one other person, and you don’t need any special skills or carpentry experience either. The hardest part is honestly just getting the cattle panel - they are huge, so unless you have a truck you’ll probably need to rent something or have them delivered. Click here for my full guide to build your own DIY cattle panel hoop house.

Cold Tolerant Plants

Of course, with any of these methods you still won’t create tropical conditions for your plants if you live in a colder climate. So it’s important to stick with plants that are known to tolerate temperatures down to about thirty degrees fahrenheit. Here’s a list of everything I’ll be growing this winter:

Gai Choy Mustard

This mustard matures in 40-60 days and grows anywhere from six to ten inches wide and ten to twelve inches tall. This is a head forming traditional Chinese mustard with a mild flavor when it’s young.

Bloomsdale Spinach

This is a dependable, open pollinated variety that matures in 28-45 days and grows about six to eight inches tall with dark green, thick and curly leaves. It’s a prolific grower with tender leaves and rich flavor.

Common Sorrel

This green has been popular in France and England for centuries but for some reason it isn’t as popular in the states. It matures in 60 days with bright green crinkled leaves that have a lemony spinach flavor.

Easter Egg Radish

This blend has red, white, pink purple and bi colored radishes that mature in just 30 days. Easter egg is a mild and crisp radish that forms small one inch globe shaped roots, so if you don’t like the spiciness of other radishes you may want to try this one.

French breakfast radish

These radishes are super mild - almost sweet and mature in 28 days. The root is scarlet with a white tip about 1 inch around and 2 or 3 inches long.

Spanish black radish

This is an extra large medium spicy radish that matures in 60-70 days with a black exterior and white interior. The globes are about 3-4 inches in diameter when mature. Since this is a winter radish it needs shortening day length and cool temps to mature, so this one gets planted later than the other radish varieties I’m growing.

Bok Choy Choko

I can’t live without this for my stir fries and this variety is so good and tender when harvested when it’s only about four inches tall. It matures in around 50 days and has smooth, leafy blades in a cluster with crisp, pale green stems. Choko was bred to be small and heat tolerant.

Big Seeded Mache

Mache can survive temperatures down to ten degrees fahrenheit and matures in 60 days. It’ll grow to be about six inches tall and eight inches in diameter with dark green, spoon shaped soft leaves in a loose rosette.

Tokyo Long White Bunching Scallion

These Japanese scallions are long, slender, mild and mature in 65 days. They are sweet enough to use in pretty much anything from salads, soups, and stir-fry dishes and grow about 16-18 inches tall.

Olesh Tres Fine Endive

This is a mildly bitter flavored green with a really interesting frilly texture that matures in 42-70 days. It grows about six inches wide and tall in rosettes with broad crinkled green leaves.

Ruby Red Swiss Chard

Chard can withstand moderate freezes and matures in 50-60 days, growing about 24 inches tall and eighteen inches wide with dark green crinkled leaves, red veins and stalks. I use this the same way I use spinach

Danvers Carrot

This variety was actually created an hour from where I live way back in the day when growers were looking for a carrot with improved yield, color and uniformity. It matures in about 65 days. It’s a sweet classic carrot that’s resistant to cracks and splits and roots grow about six inches long/

Astro Arugula

I said I would never grow this, but there’s very few foods I actively dislike and I have a personal rule that I re-try foods I hate about once a year in different forms or varieties and since arugula is so cold hardy, I had to bite the bullet with this and try a new type to see if I can learn to love it. Astro matures in 32-55 days and supposedly has more of a mild flavor than other varieties when the plants are young so I’m hopeful.

Mizuna Mustard

This tender Japanese mustard is milder than other varieties and ready to harvest in 30-50 days. It can grow up to a foot tall and wide but it’s usually harvested when it’s smaller.

Rosette Tatsoi

This beautiful leafy green is more flavorful than traditional bok choy and matures in 45 days. It is super cold tolerant down to 15 degrees fahrenheit and can be harvested even in the snow. It grows pretty low and wide with spoon shaped dark green thick leaves in a rosette.

Tendergreen Mustard

This is also called mustard spinach, but it’s not actually mustard OR spinach. It’s super easy to grow, hardy and productive and matures fast in 30 days to be about two feet tall and up to two feet wide with smooth dark green glossy leaves.

Are you team take a break for the winter, or keep growing?

Preparing Your Garden For Winter

By late October, the summer garden is hanging on by a thread, tattered and browning at the edges. Every day, I step outside and ask myself if this is the day to put it to rest. Admittedly, I probably wait longer than I should because I’m in denial about what’s coming. While some gardeners may be grateful for the period of rest winter offers, I’m just looking for more ways to keep growing even in the cold. I like living somewhere that experiences all four seasons, I just wish winter was just a little bit shorter! But eventually reality catches up with me, and I have to accept that it is time to take the necessary steps to prepare the garden for the winter months.

In my zone, 6b, we experience a long cold winter. We have a good four to five months of temperatures between zero and twenty degrees Fahrenheit. The ground freezes solid, everything dies back, winds pick up from the field and if I don’t take steps to protect it, the elements can do a number on the structures and systems I have in place for my summer garden. But there’s more to winter garden prep than just protecting what is there so it can lie in wait until next season. Now is also the best time to start preparing for any new additions you want to add to your garden for next year. So let’s dive into exactly what I’m doing to prepare my garden for winter.

Clear and compost dead plants

The very first thing I do to prepare the garden for winter is to try and give myself a clean slate. This not only tidies up the space but also helps prevent diseases from overwintering in dead plant material. For plants that remain disease free all season, you can use the “chop and drop” method to compost in place. Simply cut the plant down at the base, breaking apart any larger branches or sections so they can decompose easily, and lay them on the soil in your garden bed. These plants will break down over the winter months, returning nutrients to the soil. However, if you notice any signs of disease on your plants or just aren’t sure, it’s best to pull the entire plant up by the root. For things like powdery mildew, I’m generally not too worried about putting them into my regular compost. But if your tomatoes had blight, you may want to burn the foliage to try and stop it from spreading.

Add frost covers

There’s a good chance you have some plants that can withstand cooler temperatures and give you harvests well into December with a little planning. Plants in the brassica family for example have the ability to produce a type of natural anti-freeze that converts into sugars and makes the plants taste even better after a frost. But you can extend their life even further by utilizing frost covers which act as a cozy winter blanket and keep out the wind chill and moisture that causes the most damage to these cold hardy plants. These covers act as a shield against harsh frost, preserving the warmth around the plants and preventing frost damage. It's a simple yet effective measure to safeguard your garden and extend your harvest.

Look for abandoned tools

In the chaos of summer gardening, I know I’m not the only one who has lost track of a tool or two. It’s too easy to get swept up in the task at hand, exhaust yourself and then say you’ll “clean up later” but every gardener knows that later never comes. Take a quick inventory of your garden tools and do a walkaround for any abandoned tools that may have been left to rust so your valuable equipment doesn't deteriorate in the cold, wet weather. And then maybe make a plan for next year so you have an easily accessible drop point in your garden where you can keep tools without having to remember to walk them back to the shed.

Oil and clean tools

Now that you’ve recovered your neglected tools, it’s a great time to give them some TLC. Clean off any dirt with a dry brush, sharpen the blades and apply a protective coat of oil to prevent rusting and keep your tools in top-notch condition. For your more precious tools (like my Felcos) it’s worth taking the time to learn how to disassemble and oil any interior components. I know it seems like a lot of tiny pieces, but if you spend a bit of time watching how-tos on YouTube, anyone can do it with an hour or two to spare. This small effort pays off when spring arrives, and you can dive straight into gardening without dealing with rusty, malfunctioning tools.

Disconnect hoses

Frozen hoses can lead to burst pipes and costly repairs. To avoid this, disconnect and drain hoses before temperatures plummet. In most modern homes, each exterior spigot should have its own shut off point. Storing them in a shed or garage ensures they stay in good shape, ready for use when the growing season returns.

Make leaf mold

The more leaves you can “leaf” in place, the happier your lawn and neighborhood wildlife will be. But if you must rake up your leaves, you should definitely turn them into leaf mold. Creating a dedicated spot in your yard for leaves to break down will result in a rich, crumbly material that acts as a fantastic soil conditioner, improving the structure and fertility of your garden soil. It's a sustainable way to recycle nature's abundance and enhance your garden's health.

Wrap trees

Especially in very cold climates like mine, young trees or those susceptible to winter damage benefit from being wrapped with burlap or tree wrap. This protective layer shields the bark from harsh winter conditions, preventing sunscald and frost cracks. It's a simple yet effective measure for the long-term health of your trees.

Mulch perennials

We aren’t the only ones who benefit from an extra blanket or two in the winter months. A layer of mulch such as wood chips, pine needles or straw around perennial plants acts as insulation, protecting their roots from extreme temperatures. It also helps retain moisture and suppresses weeds, contributing to the overall well-being of your garden beds during the winter months. A good rule of thumb is to use four to six inches of mulch around the plants - just don’t press the mulch up against the plant itself. We are insulating the roots, not the aboveground parts.

Empty outdoor planters so they don’t crack

Freezing and thawing cycles can cause soil in containers to expand and contract, which can cause your clay or ceramic pots to crack. To avoid this, empty out some or all of the soil from your breakable containers or, if space allows, move them to a sheltered area. This simple step ensures your pots remain intact and ready for planting in the spring.

Prep new garden bed areas with cardboard and compost

If you're planning new garden beds for the next growing season, winter is an excellent time to start preparing the ground using the lasagna method. Lay down untreated cardboard to smother weeds and grass, and top it with compost, leaves or straw. This not only enriches the soil but also creates a weed-free foundation for your future garden.

Cover crops

Sowing cover crops, such as winter rye or clover, during the fall is a smart way to protect and improve your garden soil. These crops prevent soil erosion, suppress weeds, and add organic matter as they decompose. Come spring, you can easily incorporate them into the soil, providing a nutrient boost for your plants.

Cover raised beds

This one is more specific to my raised beds because they are off of the ground. While they are weather resistant on their own being made of cedar, in order to make them last as long as possible I grabbed firewood rack covers that are the exact size of my raised beds. These waterproof covers will protect my beds from the elements - but be aware that they can cause soil to turn hydrophobic if they totally dry out over the winter and aren’t typically necessary with standard raised beds. Because my raised beds also have wicking trays built into them, I’ve disconnected the tubes underneath so water won’t sit stagnant in the beds all winter. The arch trellises are powder coated, so they’ll be just fine out in the elements over the winter.

Watch me prep my own garden over on YouTube!

There’s always more that can be done to prepare the garden for winter, and some tips will be more specific to your garden setup. But with all this checked off my list, I’m looking forward to a slower season of rest and planning, organizing my seed collection (and let’s be real, buying a lot more) as well as drawing up new garden bed layouts for the spring. What are you doing to prep your garden for the winter months now?