BACKYARD GARDENING
WITHOUT THE BACKACHE
Forcing Forsythia Indoors For Early Spring Blooms
Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside is a fun and easy process. All you need is a pair of sharp clippers and a container to fill with water and place your cuttings in. Once you’ve gathered your supplies, head outside and look for a branch (or ten) that needs pruning. You can accomplish two tasks in one this way - prune off unwanted branches at the perfect time of year to do so, as well as bring some beautiful flowers indoors!
Spring is a time of new beginnings, and this is reflected in the blooms of many plants. I spend more distracted minutes than I care to admit staring out of windows each day hoping for a streak of color in the garden beds to bring life back into the cold and gray landscape of early spring. In my gardens, the first to appear are the purple crocuses, small and delicate. Following behind soon after will be the daffodils - cheerful yellow and white blooms to ring in the season and excellent flowers for your vase. Before long it is a cacophony of blossoms, from tulips with their vibrant colors and delicate blooms to lilac and hyacinths, fragrant flowers that come in a range of colors, from pastels to bright hues, and are a favorite of gardeners and florists alike.
I’ll be the first to admit that winter isn’t the easiest season for me. Living in New England, you’re forced to acclimate to the colder temperatures, but even after a lifetime spent in this northern climate I still struggle with just how long, cold and gray winter can be. My chronic pain is also made worse by colder weather affecting my joints. The only consolation is that spring is all the sweeter for it. You can’t miss what you can’t measure, and winter ensures that I never take the sweetness of spring for granted.
While I love each and every flower that appears, my favorite blooms this time of year are not the ones that poke their way up out of the thawing earth. I find inspiration in the dogwoods, cherry blossoms, magnolia and forsythia (a burst of sunshine) too. These flowering trees and shrubs are a beautiful addition to any spring landscape. But if you’re impatient like me, and the winter was long, you may find yourself wishing there was a way to speed things up a bit and enjoy a bit of spring in your own home. My favorite way to do just that? Take a trip outdoors (bundle up if you must!) and snip off a few of those wayward branches you were meaning to prune anyhow to force those spring bud branches to bloom indoors. This simple little trick is especially gratifying if you live with chronic pain like I do, and just need a quick way to feel connected with nature without putting additional stress on your body. Chronic illness can so easily take away parts of our identity (like being a gardener) if we let it. So I always like to prioritize small activities like this that reinforce my sense of self.
How can you force spring bud branches to bloom inside?
Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside is a fun and easy process. All you need is a pair of sharp clippers and a container to fill with water and place your cuttings in. Once you’ve gathered your supplies, head outside and look for a branch (or ten) that needs pruning. You can accomplish two tasks in one this way - prune off unwanted branches at the perfect time of year to do so, as well as bring some beautiful flowers indoors!
Cut branches: Cut branches from deciduous trees or shrubs that have swollen buds, but have not yet started to leaf out. Ideal trees to use are cherry, plum, apple, or forsythia. Cut branches early in the morning while they are still dormant, using sharp pruning shears to make a clean, angled cut. To improve your chances of success, make some small cuts up the ends of the branches as well.
Hydrate: Place the cut branches in a container of warm water to allow them to hydrate and start absorbing water. You can add some flower food to the water to help extend the life of the blooms, but you don’t have to.
Condition the branches: Place the container in a cool, dark room for a day or two to help the branches adjust to indoor conditions.
Warmth and light: Move the container to a warm, bright room with indirect sunlight. This will help to promote the growth and blooming of the flowers.
Change water regularly: Check the water level in the container daily and change it regularly to prevent the growth of bacteria that could harm the blooms.
Wait: It may take several days to several weeks for the branches to start blooming, depending on the type of tree and the conditions in your home. Be patient, and enjoy the process of watching the flowers slowly start to appear.
Once the flowers have opened, you can arrange the branches in a vase and enjoy their beauty in your home. If you’re lucky, your branches may even develop roots in the water - you can try planting these outdoors when they are done blooming! Now you’ve pruned your plants, added beauty to your home AND propagated new ones for free. You can probably see why I love this little project so much!
How does forcing blooms work?
Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside works by manipulating the environmental conditions that the branches experience, in order to encourage them to bloom earlier than they would naturally. By changing the temperature, light, and water conditions that the branches experience, you are effectively tricking the branches into thinking that spring has arrived earlier than it naturally would. This encourages the branches to bloom, allowing you to enjoy the beauty of spring in your home, even if the weather outside is still cold and dreary.
What plants can you force bloom indoors?
Many deciduous trees and shrubs can be used to force buds to bloom inside, but some work better than others. Here are a few species that are often used for this purpose:
Forsythia: This is a popular choice for forcing due to its bright yellow flowers that bloom early in the spring and its hardy nature.
Cherry: Cherry branches have delicate pink or white flowers that are very fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.
Plum: Plum branches produce fragrant, delicate flowers in shades of pink or white.
Apple: Apple branches have delicate pink or white flowers that are lightly fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.
Magnolia: Magnolia branches have large, fragrant flowers in shades of pink, purple, or white, and make a dramatic statement when displayed indoors.
Dogwood: Dogwood branches have delicate flowers in shades of pink or white, and are also prized for their attractive bark.
Quince: Quince branches have fragrant, bright pink flowers that bloom early in the spring, making them a popular choice for forcing.
Crabapple: Crabapple branches have delicate pink, red, or white flowers that are lightly fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.
These are just a few examples of the many species that can be used. Play and experiment with different plants to see what works best for you.
What are the benefits of bringing fresh spring flowers inside?
There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that fresh flowers inside can have a positive impact on mental health. Here are a few of the key benefits:
Boosts mood: Research has shown that flowers can have an immediate impact on mood, making people feel happier and more relaxed, as well as more balanced and centered.
Improves memory: Studies have found that having fresh flowers in the home can improve memory, particularly in older adults.
Increases creativity: Flowers have been found to stimulate the mind and increase creativity, making them a great addition to workspaces or creative spaces.
Provides a connection to nature: Flowers are a reminder of the beauty and abundance of nature, providing a connection to the natural world and promoting feelings of peace and calm.
Bring fresh flowers inside have been shown to have a positive impact on mental health, helping people to feel happier, more relaxed, and more connected to the world around them.
Whether you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home, workspace, or creative space, the mental health benefits are undeniable.
Another benefit of this practice is that it intentionally forces you to spend time outdoors, at a time of year when the rainy spring weather may tempt you to stay cozied up inside. But anyone who has ever gone outdoors after a fresh spring rain shower will tell you there is a certain smell in the air during this time of year that cannot be replicated in summer, fall or winter. Scientists have actually named this phenomenon- “Petrichor” is the term for the unique, earthy smell associated with rain. It is caused by the water from the rain combining with certain compounds like ozone, geosmin, and plant oils in soil.
Even more impressive is the fact that soil contains a natural antidepressant; a microbe in the soil called Mycobacterium vaccae that is confirmed to stimulate serotonin production, leaving you feeling relaxed and happier. When you garden and work the soil, you actually inhale these beneficial bacteria in addition to having topical contact with it, making multiple points of entry for this natural stress reliever to enter your bloodstream. I see this as further proof of what I know intuitively as a gardener; spending time in nature in spring is a uniquely healing experience.
Growing Nasturtium Flowers In Your Garden [Guide]
Nasturtiums are beautiful flowers that come in a range of colors, including shades of yellow, orange, red, and even variegated combinations. What makes nasturtiums even more appealing is their versatility, as they can be grown in various garden settings, such as containers, borders, or hanging baskets. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, nasturtiums are a great choice due to their ease of growth and low maintenance requirements.
Nasturtiums are beautiful flowers that come in a range of colors, including shades of yellow, orange, red, and even variegated combinations. What makes nasturtiums even more appealing is their versatility, as they can be grown in various garden settings, such as containers, borders, or hanging baskets. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, nasturtiums are a great choice due to their ease of growth and low maintenance requirements.
One of the key benefits of growing nasturtiums is their stunning and vivid colors that can instantly liven up your garden. Their vibrant blooms can create a visually pleasing focal point or add a pop of color to a dull corner. Nasturtiums also attract pollinators like bees and butterflies, contributing to a healthy and vibrant ecosystem in your garden.
Apart from their ornamental value, nasturtiums are also edible. The leaves, flowers, and even the seeds of nasturtiums are edible and can be used in various culinary applications. The leaves have a peppery flavor similar to watercress, while the flowers have a slightly milder and sweeter taste. They can be added to salads, used as garnishes, or even infused into oils and vinegars for a unique flavor twist.
Another advantage of growing nasturtiums is their ability to repel certain pests in the garden. Nasturtiums emit a fragrance that deters aphids and other harmful insects, making them a natural pest control option. By planting nasturtiums alongside your other plants, you can create a more balanced and pest-resistant garden ecosystem.
Whether you're looking to enhance the visual appeal of your garden, enjoy their edible flowers and leaves, or utilize their natural pest-repelling properties, growing nasturtiums is a rewarding and beneficial gardening experience. With their vibrant colors, versatility, and culinary uses, nasturtiums are sure to bring joy and excitement to your garden and kitchen.
What Type of Nasturtium Should You Grow?
When it comes to nasturtium varieties, there are several popular options to choose from, each with its own unique characteristics and charm. Some of the commonly grown nasturtium varieties include Alaska, Jewel Mix, and Empress of India.
Alaska is a popular nasturtium variety known for its stunning variegated foliage. The leaves of Alaska are marbled with shades of green and cream, providing an eye-catching backdrop to the vibrant flowers. The flowers come in a range of colors, including shades of orange, yellow, and red. Alaska nasturtiums typically grow to a height of 10 to 12 inches (25 to 30 cm), making them suitable for containers or borders.
Jewel Mix is another popular choice among gardeners. This variety features a dazzling array of flower colors, including shades of orange, yellow, red, and mahogany. The flowers of Jewel Mix nasturtiums are larger in size and have a slightly ruffled appearance, adding a touch of elegance to any garden. The plants can reach a height of 12 to 18 inches (30 to 45 cm) and are well-suited for borders or hanging baskets.
Empress of India is a unique nasturtium variety known for its deep, velvety crimson flowers. The intense red blooms contrast beautifully with the plant's dark green foliage, creating a captivating visual display. Empress of India nasturtiums typically grow to a height of 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm) and are well-suited for containers or borders.
When choosing a nasturtium variety, consider the specific garden setting you have in mind. Alaska nasturtiums, with their variegated foliage and versatile flower colors, can add a splash of interest to containers or borders. Their compact growth habit makes them suitable for smaller spaces.
Jewel Mix nasturtiums, with their larger and vibrant flowers, are great for adding a burst of color to borders, hanging baskets, or cascading over walls. Their trailing growth habit allows them to create a cascading effect, making them ideal for draping over edges or spilling out of containers.
Empress of India, with its deep red blooms and dark green foliage, creates a striking contrast. This variety can be planted as a focal point in containers or used to add depth and richness to borders.
Consider the available space, desired visual impact, and the specific garden setting when selecting nasturtium varieties. By choosing the right nasturtium variety for your garden, you can create a captivating display and enhance the overall aesthetics of your outdoor space.
Where Should You Plant Nasturtiums?
Nasturtiums thrive in full sun to partial shade, making it important to select a growing site that provides the optimal amount of sunlight. While they can tolerate some shade, nasturtiums generally produce more abundant blooms and lush foliage when exposed to at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. This ensures that the plants receive sufficient energy to develop vibrant flowers and lush foliage.
Soil preparation is essential for the successful growth of nasturtiums. These plants prefer well-draining soil that is rich in organic matter. Before planting, it is beneficial to amend the soil with compost or well-rotted manure to improve its fertility and texture. This enhances the soil's ability to retain moisture while also promoting healthy root development.
In addition to adding organic matter, ensuring proper drainage is crucial for nasturtiums. They are susceptible to root rot and other fungal diseases in waterlogged soil. If the soil in your chosen location is heavy or tends to retain water, consider incorporating sand or perlite to improve drainage. This will help prevent waterlogged conditions and promote healthy root growth.
Look for areas in your garden that receive ample sunlight throughout the day, especially during the morning and early afternoon. While nasturtiums can tolerate partial shade, providing them with enough sunlight will result in stronger growth and more abundant blooms.
Nasturtiums are known for their sprawling growth habit, so ensure that they have sufficient space to spread and trail without overcrowding nearby plants. In terms of soil compatibility, nasturtiums are generally adaptable and can grow well in a wide range of soil types.
How to Start Nasturtiums From Seed
Nasturtium seeds have a hard outer shell, and soaking them prior to planting can help speed up germination. Place the seeds in a container and cover them with warm water. Let them soak for 12 to 24 hours.
Once the seeds have been soaked, choose a well-prepared garden bed or container for direct sowing. Make sure the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Dig shallow holes or furrows about 1 inch deep and 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the variety. Place the soaked seeds in the holes or furrows, spacing them about 1 inch apart. Cover the seeds with soil, gently firming it down to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. After planting, water the soil thoroughly but gently to avoid displacing the seeds. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs.
Nasturtium seeds typically germinate within 7 to 14 days, depending on the temperature and conditions. Once the seedlings emerge, thin them to the desired spacing, usually around 12 inches apart for compact varieties and up to 24 inches apart for trailing varieties.
Caring for Nasturtium Flowers
Regular watering is crucial for the health and vitality of nasturtiums. These plants prefer consistently moist soil, especially during dry periods. Watering should be done deeply and evenly to ensure the entire root zone is adequately hydrated. It is important to avoid overwatering, as excessively wet soil can lead to root rot and other diseases. Monitor the moisture level of the soil and adjust your watering frequency accordingly. Mulching around the base of the plants can help retain moisture in the soil and reduce water evaporation.
Weed control is essential for the successful growth of nasturtiums. Weeds can compete with the plants for nutrients, water, and sunlight, potentially hindering their growth and development. Regularly inspect the planting area and remove any weeds that emerge. It is best to hand-pull weeds or use shallow cultivation to avoid damaging the shallow roots of the nasturtiums. Applying a layer of organic mulch around the plants can also help suppress weed growth by smothering weed seeds and preventing them from germinating.
Nasturtiums are generally not heavy feeders and can thrive in moderately fertile soil. However, providing them with some additional nutrients can promote better growth and more abundant flowering. Organic fertilizers, such as compost or well-rotted manure, are excellent choices for nourishing nasturtiums. These natural fertilizers provide a slow release of nutrients and help improve the soil structure. Apply compost or well-rotted manure around the base of the plants, taking care not to bury the stems. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can result in excessive foliage growth at the expense of flower production.
Mulching offers several benefits when it comes to growing nasturtiums. A layer of organic mulch, such as straw, shredded leaves, or wood chips, helps conserve moisture in the soil by reducing water evaporation. This is particularly important during hot and dry periods. Mulch also acts as a natural weed barrier, suppressing the growth of unwanted plants and reducing the need for frequent weeding. Additionally, mulch helps regulate soil temperature, keeping the roots cool in hot weather and insulating them during cooler periods. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the plants, taking care to keep it a few inches away from the stems to prevent moisture-related issues.
Should You Prune Nasturtiums?
Pruning nasturtiums can have several benefits, including promoting bushier growth and enhancing the overall appearance of the plants. By selectively removing certain stems or branches, you can encourage the development of lateral shoots, resulting in a fuller and more compact plant. Pruning also helps maintain the desired shape and size of the nasturtiums, preventing them from becoming leggy or sprawling.
If you’re wondering how to prune nasturtiums, start by assessing the overall growth of the plants. Look for long, straggly stems or branches that may be detracting from the plant's appearance. Using a pair of clean and sharp pruning shears or scissors, carefully trim back these overgrown stems to a desired length, preferably just above a set of healthy leaves or lateral shoot. This will encourage the plant to produce new growth from the trimmed area, leading to a bushier and more attractive plant overall.
It's important to note that pruning should be done selectively and with care, as excessive pruning or cutting into old wood can weaken the plant and affect its ability to produce flowers. It's recommended to prune nasturtiums during the active growing season, typically in late spring or early summer when the plants are actively producing new growth. Avoid pruning too late in the season, as this may remove potential flower buds and reduce the plant's blooming capacity.
How to Deadhead Nasturtiums
Deadheading is the process of removing spent or faded flowers from the nasturtium plants. It serves two main purposes: promoting continuous blooming and improving the overall appearance of the plants. When left unattended, the flowers of nasturtiums will naturally fade and form seed pods. By deadheading, you can redirect the plant's energy towards producing more flowers instead of setting seeds, resulting in a prolonged and abundant blooming period.
To deadhead nasturtiums, inspect the plants regularly and identify flowers that have started to fade or wilt. Follow the stem down to the first set of healthy leaves or lateral shoot, and use your fingers or a pair of pruning shears to remove the flower head just above this point. Make sure to cut or pinch off the entire flower, including the seed pod if it has started to develop. Removing the entire flower will prevent the formation of seeds and signal the plant to produce more flowers.
How to Harvest Nasturtium Flowers
Harvesting nasturtium flowers and leaves should be done when they are fully open and vibrant, usually in the morning when the plants are well-hydrated. Look for flowers that have reached their full size and display rich colors, such as vibrant oranges, yellows, and reds. Gently pluck the flowers from the stem, taking care not to damage the plant or surrounding blooms. As for the leaves, choose young and tender ones, as they tend to have a milder flavor. Harvesting both the flowers and leaves regularly will encourage the plant to produce more blooms throughout the season.
The bright and peppery flavor of nasturtium flowers makes them a delightful addition to salads, adding a burst of color and a hint of spice. They can also be used as a garnish for various dishes, imparting both visual appeal and a unique flavor. Nasturtium leaves can be used as a substitute for herbs like watercress or arugula, lending a similar peppery taste to soups, sauces, and pesto. Additionally, the unripe seed pods, often referred to as "capers," can be pickled and used in salads or as a flavorful topping for various dishes. Be creative in the kitchen and explore different ways to incorporate nasturtiums into your culinary repertoire.
Unlocking the Culinary Potential of Your Garden With Edible Flowers
When starting a cut flower garden with edible flowers, you may not know in advance if you’ll actually enjoy the flavor of the flowers you are growing - most of us have never eaten flowers before! Often, they taste a lot like they smell. But in the case of nasturtiums for example, they can have an unexpected heat. Go into your garden planning with a mindset of experimentation and you are sure to be amazed, even if your flowers end up being more for the birds and bees than your plate. There’s no such thing as a flower failure. And don’t forget that many of your favorite vegetables and fruits like snap peas and strawberries start off as flowers that can be eaten and adorned too. If you’re new to gardening, these experiments will give you the experience you need to grow confident in all your future gardening endeavors. If you’re already a gardening expert, edible flowers offer the opportunity to bring something new and unexpected into your regular gardening routine, a colorful surprise to enjoy all summer long.
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Edible cut flower gardens can bring so much joy to your kitchen. I love topping a fresh salad with spice nasturtiums, or pressing pansies into shortbread cookies. I’m a firm believer that adults need opportunities to play too - and growing flowers that we can eat is the perfect way to incorporate that playful energy into our days. Outside of garnishes and baking, they can make an excellent cup of tea, or folded into fresh churned butter you can add color to your breakfast toasts and more. The options are endless when it comes to what you can do with edible flowers. Playing with texture, scent and color can turn an otherwise basic recipe into something really special to share with friends and family this summer and beyond. My favorite cakes have been topped with sage leaves and calendula blossoms, and you can make a mocktail truly unique with just a few sprigs of lavender.
Health Benefits of Flowers
There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that fresh flowers inside can have a positive impact on mental health. Here are a few of the key benefits:
Boosts mood: Research has shown that flowers can have an immediate impact on mood, making people feel happier and more relaxed.
Reduces stress: Flowers have been shown to have a calming effect, reducing feelings of anxiety and stress.
Improves memory: Studies have found that having fresh flowers in the home can improve memory, particularly in older adults.
Increases creativity: Flowers have been found to stimulate the mind and increase creativity, making them a great addition to workspaces or creative spaces.
Promotes well-being: Fresh flowers have been shown to promote a sense of well-being, helping people to feel more balanced and centered.
Provides a connection to nature: Flowers are a reminder of the beauty and abundance of nature, providing a connection to the natural world and promoting feelings of peace and calm.
When starting a cut flower garden with edible flowers, you may not know in advance if you’ll actually enjoy the flavor of the flowers you are growing - most of us have never eaten flowers before! Often, they taste a lot like they smell. But in the case of nasturtiums for example, they can have an unexpected heat. Go into your garden planning with a mindset of experimentation and you are sure to be amazed, even if your flowers end up being more for the birds and bees than your plate. There’s no such thing as a flower failure. And don’t forget that many of your favorite vegetables and fruits like snap peas and strawberries start off as flowers that can be eaten and adorned too. If you’re new to gardening, these experiments will give you the experience you need to grow confident in all your future gardening endeavors. If you’re already a gardening expert, edible flowers offer the opportunity to bring something new and unexpected into your regular gardening routine, a colorful surprise to enjoy all summer long.
Overall, fresh flowers inside have been shown to have a positive impact on mental health, helping people to feel happier, more relaxed, and more connected to the world around them. Whether you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home, workspace, or creative space, the mental health benefits are undeniable.
Below are some of my favorite flowers for a cut garden bed. They all have a good vase life and are easily started by seed. There are many, many other edible flowers not included on this list, so I encourage you to do some research of your own.
Calendula
Calendula prefers partial shade, and grows 10-12” tall. For the longest vase life, pick the flowers when they’ve just opened, and pick often to encourage more blooms.
The leaves and flowers of Calendula are edible. The leaves are bitter, and best used in salad. The flowers are rich in antioxidants and are used in salads, or as a garnish.
Both the leaves and flowers can be used to make tea. Pick fully open blooms, and if you’d like, leaves. You can use them fresh, or save some for later. For storage, let them dry indoors until they are crunchy and save them in an airtight container.
Calendula has been used externally to treat rashes, burns, and wounds for hundreds of years. Its dried flowers are said to boost the immune system.
Zinnia
Zinnia prefers full sun, and its height depends upon which variety you are growing. To determine when they should be picked, use the wiggle test: hold the stem about 8” down from the flower and shake it gently. If the stem bends, it is not ready. If it stays perpendicular, it’s ready for harvesting. Harvest often for more blooms.
Zinnia is used in salads and as a garnish. Fresh or dried flowers can be used to make tea. They can also be used to make a simple syrup for use in cocktails (or mocktails).
Zinnia have been used medicinally for their antifungal, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antimalarial qualities.
Flower Sunspot Sunflower
Unsurprisingly, Sunspot Sunflowers grow in full sun. They are a dwarf variety, growing only 2-3 feet tall.. For the longest vase life, they should be picked when they are just starting to fully open.
Sunflower seeds are packed with nutrition and are a source of protein. The seeds are ready for harvesting when the back of the sunflower has begun to brown. At that point, they will be dry enough to remove from the flower. Alternatively, they can be kept on the flower in a dry space.
Sunflower petals can be used in soups or salads, or as a garnish. Dried petals can be used to make tea.
Sunflower seeds support the immune system, and are linked to lower cholesterol and blood pressure. They have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Dried Sunflower petals are used in salves, facial scrubs, and soap, among other things.
Snapdragons
Snapdragons grow in full sun. Their height varies depending on variety. They should be picked while still closed for the longest vase life. They should be picked often to encourage blooms.
Snapdragon leaves and flowers are edible and anti-inflammatory, but some varieties can be bitter. It is used to make tea, in salads, or as a garnish.
The leaves and flowers of Snapdragons have been used for a wide variety of symptoms and diseases, from watery eyes to liver disorder.
Lisianthus
Lisianthus grow in full sun, reaching between one and three feet tall. They should be picked when one or more flowers on the stem are open. They are also used in dried flower arrangements.
Lisianthus flowers are edible, but are quite bitter.
Lisianthus has been used for its antibacterial and antifungal properties.
Pincushion
Pincushion grows in full sun, and is 6-12 inches tall and 9-24 inches wide. They are used in fresh and dried floral arrangements. Pincushion flowers should be picked when they are still in bud for the longest vase life.
Pincushion is used in tea, salads, and garnishes.
Pincushion has been used to treat inflammation, and to treat coughs, sore throat, and fever. Externally, it is used for skin conditions such as eczema and rashes.
China Aster
China Aster grows in full sun, reaching 3 feet tall. Flowers should be picked when they are halfway open for the longest vase life.
China Aster flowers and leaves can be used fresh or dried, in salads and tea. To make tea for storage, dry your flowers upside down until they crumble easily, then put them in an airproof container.
China Aster has been used to treat earaches, headaches, and toothaches.
Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)
Gomphrena grow in full sun and are about 2 feet tall. When harvesting, their stems should be cut at the base of the plant. They are beautiful in fresh and dried arrangements.
Gomphrena’s fresh flowers are not appetizing due to their texture, but can be used as a garnish or to make tea.
Gomphrena has been used for a wide variety of medicinal purposes, from diabetes and high blood pressure to respiratory disorders.
Verbena (Common Vervain)
Verbena grows in full sun, reaching 1-5 feet tall. They are annual or short-lived perennials. Harvest when half of the flowers have opened.
Verbena is used in fruit salads, desserts and for tea.
Verbena is used externally to treat burns, arthritis, and itching, and internally for insomnia, epilepsy, and anxiety.
Stock
Stock grows in full sun or partial shade, and is from 1-3 feet tall. For longer vase life, flowers should be picked when they are a third to halfway open. They are excellent for use in dried flower arrangements.
Stock is a member of the cabbage family. Its flowers and pods are edible and are used in salads and tea, but its leaves, stems, and roots are not edible. Their flavor is a bit peppery.
Stock has been used as an expectorant and as an aphrodisiac.
What edible flowers do you grow?
Preserving the Beauty of Peonies: Strategies for Prolific Blooms and Healthy Plants [Guide]
May is for three things; asparagus, rhubarb and peonies. These are the first true signs that spring is really here to stay after a long, cold and dark winter. Our pink double peonies live just outside my bedroom window, and in May I begin checking on them daily for signs of life. Almost overnight they can burst into a beautiful display of fragrance and color, ready for picking.
The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.
May is for three things; asparagus, rhubarb and peonies. These are the first true signs that spring is really here to stay after a long, cold and dark winter. Our pink double peonies live just outside my bedroom window, and in May I begin checking on them daily for signs of life. Almost overnight they can burst into a beautiful display of fragrance and color, the many petaled blooms soon overrun with my least favorite garden visitor (ants).
Double peonies seem like they have hundreds of petals all packed in close together, and the denseness of them even in full bloom always amazes me.
We also have a huge patch of white single peonies that I am tempted to bury my face in every year. This plant is so well established now that we have more blooms than I even know what to do with at times. The single peonies are a lot more delicate, with five to ten thin petals bending off the pollen bearing stamen in all directions in a wild display that somehow feels chaotic and classic all at once. Just writing this I can practically smell them again!
Each spring I bring fresh cuttings inside and the diverse texture stands alone in a vase with no need to add fillers or greenery. But, these beautiful blooms are short-lived and leave me wanting more every time. Thankfully I have a trick for extending the life of my peonies and enjoying fresh cut peony flowers in my home up to a month after they would normally be blooming. But before we delve into that, let’s make sure you are set up for success in growing peonies of your own. That way, even if you do not have peony plants blooming in your garden this spring, you can get them in the ground come fall and save this post for next year.
Where do peonies grow?
Peonies are hardy to Zone 3 and grow well as far south as Zones 7 and 8. Peonies even relish cold winters, because they need chilling for bud formation.
How to grow peonies
If you’re wondering how to plant peonies, you’ve come to the right place! Peonies are most commonly grown from a bare-root tuber. While you can grow peonies from seed, it will take five to six years before they bloom, so generally you’ll be starting with a tuber. You’ll want to plant your peony tuber in an area that gets full sun, in well draining soil. They will rot in water logged soil. The most important thing about planting your peonies is orienting the tuber correctly in the hole. Peony tubers have a top! You should plant your peonies in late fall - September or October.
Space peonies 3 to 4 feet apart - they can get very big and bushy!
Dig down two feet to loosen the soil. Then backfill until your hole is only about 2 inches deep and place the tuber so that the “eyes” face upward and the roots are about two inches below the soil surface.
You can enrich sandy or heavy soil with compost and incorporate about one cup of bone meal into the soil, but it’s not necessary.
Water immediately after planting.
There are six peony flower types to choose from: anemone, single, Japanese, semi-double, double, and bomb. Peonies come in many shades of pink, purple, red, white, and yellow. I love to grow pink double peonies because they are so fluffy with all the extra showy petals! But a simple white peony is such a classic too.
A final note; choose your location wisely, because peonies do not like to be transplanted. They are unlikely to bloom for 2-3 years after transplant.
Grow peonies in pots
You can grow peonies in pots, but you’ll need a very large container with excellent drainage. The planting depth should be the same as when you are planting peonies in the ground - only about an inch or two below the surface. Peonies grown in pots should be allowed to almost dry out before watering. They will also need to be protected from deep freezes in the winter.
How tall do peonies grow?
There are two common types of peonies, so if you’re wondering how big peonies can grow, it’s important to know which type you’re looking at. Herbaceous peonies grow best in zones three through seven and can grow to be two to three feet tall and two to four feet wide. These are the typically bushy type peonies seen in most gardens. Tree peonies grow best in zones three through nine and resemble small shrubs, growing as tall as seven feet. We’re talking about herbaceous peonies in today's post, but let me know in the comments if you grow tree peonies in your yard!
How long do peonies take to grow?
Peonies are slow growers and can typically take up to three years to fully mature. If you grow tubers from an established plant you may see one or two blooms in the first year. Growing peonies from seed can take six or seven years and isn’t typically recommended. The older your peony plant is, the more bushy and bloom filled it will be.
How much sun do peonies need?
Peonies love the sun, although they are sensitive to extreme temperatures. Peonies grow best in areas with six to eight hours of direct sunlight. It’s also important to make sure you’re spacing your peonies at least 2 feet apart in order to increase air circulation around the plants and reduce the risk of fungal disease.
Do peonies attract ants?
While it’s a myth that peonies need ants in order to bloom it is true that peony buds secrete a sweet, sugary nectar that attracts ants. Scientists have yet to figure out the true purpose of this symbiotic relationship, but it’s fun to imagine the possibilities!
Should peonies be cut back in the fall?
Since peony plants start from tubers, you want them to store as much energy as possible underground over the winter. This is why you should always cut back your peony plants as close to the ground as possible in the fall after the foliage has completely died back or yellowed after a hard frost. This advice only applies to herbaceous peonies - tree peonies should be cut back immediately after they bloom.
Should you mulch peonies?
It’s not necessary to mulch established peony plants, but you can apply a thin layer of straw mulch in late fall on plants that are less than two years old.
How do you winterize peonies?
To winterize peonies, simply cut back to the ground. If the plants are less than two years old, you can add a thin layer of straw mulch to protect them when the ground freezes.
Should you deadhead peonies?
Cutting off your peony blooms or deadheading will allow your peony plant to redirect its energy into the roots and grow bigger. And with the tip below, you’ll want to cut off all your peony blooms right away so you can save them for later anyway!
How to make peonies last longer
Did you know that you can make your short-lived peony blooms last for a month or longer? Peonies are strongly associated with spring, but you can have fresh peony flowers into early summer with this trick. The key is timing your cuttings correctly and using cold storage. If we cut our peony blooms before they have a chance to open, then suspend their growth by convincing them to go dormant using cold temperatures, you can effectively pause their bloom cycle and restart it again when you want fresh flowers for your table in June or even early July.
Time your cutting perfectly: This is key. The bud should still be closed, but squishy and only slightly firm like a marshmallow. If your peonies aren’t white, the petal color should be showing through.
Cut the stem at a steep angle using your sharpest clippers just above a set of leaves.
Remove all of the leaves and place in a plastic Ziploc bag. You can wrap in a damp newspaper, Stasher bag if it’s large enough, or plastic wrap. But you’ll have to keep the newspaper damp at all times.
Place the bag in the coolest part of your refrigerator, close to the back.
When you're ready to use your flowers, take them out of the fridge and place in tepid water. As they warm back up, the petals will open revealing perfect fresh blooms! This can take a day or so.
The hardest part of this process is knowing when to pick the flowers. If you struggle with your blooms not opening or opening while still in the fridge, you’ve picked them at the wrong time. Keep an eye out over on Instagram as I’ll be sharing a post showing the correct stage for harvesting as soon as my peonies bloom this season!
Will you try this with your peonies?
10 Perennial Plants That Will Thrive in Your Shady Garden
Beautiful shade gardens are a bit trickier than sunny gardens simply because there’s a much wider variety of perennials that grow in full sun than perennials that grow in shade. It can be done, though, and I’m here to help you do it.
The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.
Choosing the Best Flowering Perennial Plants for Your Shade Garden
Beautiful shade gardens are a bit trickier than sunny gardens simply because there’s a much wider variety of perennials that grow in full sun than perennials that grow in shade. It can be done, though, and I’m here to help you do it.
One way to make a garden is to fly by the seat of your pants – go to the garden center, pick what looks pretty to you, make sure they like the shade, then figure out where to put them when you get home. I did plenty of that myself in my early years of gardening, and still do sometimes. As I’ve become more experienced, though, I’ve come to appreciate the role of planning in garden design.
What is a Perennial Plant?
First, let’s talk about what a perennial plant is not. You know when you go to a garden center in the spring and there are plants already blooming with bright flowers and you’ve been starving for color all winter and you Must. Buy. Them. All? Those are annual plants, plants that will die in the fall of the year you put them in the ground. You get the instant satisfaction of pretty colors in your yard, but you’ll have to do it all over again the next spring, and the one after that.
Perennial plants may die back to the ground in fall or winter (some don’t), but their roots are still alive, and, year after year, each spring the plant will come back bigger, stronger, and with more blooms. These are the plants we use to build a garden that will become more lush and beautiful every year. Another great thing about perennials is that as they grow we can divide them, creating many plants from the one purchase.
How Do You Divide Perennial Plants?
As I explained in this post, most perennials are happy to be divided. There are two basic methods I use to I divide a perennial plant. The first is to use a sharp-edged shovel. Pressing straight down on the shovel with my foot, I can separate the roots belowground. It’s then easy to dig out only the section I want to move. The other way I divide a plant is to dig the whole thing up. Some plants’ roots will easily separate into pieces once they’re out of the ground. Others will need to be split with a shovel or gardening knife.
The benefits of making a plan for your garden
A little planning will ensure you choose plants that will thrive in your yard’s conditions. Maybe your shady area has one end that gets partial sun, you have a pile of rocks to plant around, or the area tends to be dry. Choosing the right plant for the right spot sets your plants up for success.
Planning your garden also allows time to think about what size each plant will grow to be, what its watering needs are, what types of foliage you’d like to see near each other, how much maintenance will be needed, and what color the flowers will be.
You can also take the time to learn which plants might have edible or medicinal uses, making your garden both beautiful and useful.
**Please note that many plants which are edible for humans may be toxic to cats and dogs.**
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How Many plants Should you Buy?
It’s tempting to buy one of each of the perennial plants you like, and that can be a good way to experiment and learn how different plants grow. As far as garden design goes, though, it’s better to choose fewer varieties of plants and get more of each of the ones you choose.
Large swaths of the same plant have a bigger impact that a collection of different plants. They also make your garden look lush and intentional. Additionally, you might want to put the same variety of plants in different areas of the garden to provide balance.
Three is generally a magic number in design, and that holds true in the garden. If you can afford more than three, stick with an odd number for the most attractive outcome.
What Perennial Flowers for Shade Should you Buy?
As this is your very own garden, you should choose the plants you find most beautiful. While you’re looking, pay attention to what color flower each plant will produce. Maybe you want a garden where all the flowers are different shades of one color, or a garden with a certain palette of colors. Or maybe you want a riotous mix of every color you can find.
Pay attention also to the foliage of the plants. Perennials that grow in shade sometimes have flowers which do not bloom for as long or as strikingly as sun-loving perennials do. The good news is each plant has a unique foliage color and shape, and they can be combined in ways that look good even when the plants are not flowering.
When choosing what perennial plants to buy, there are a few other things to think about. It’s important to look up each plant’s growing zone. You can find your own growing zone with the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Plants outside of your zone will not grow in your area. Because I live in Zone 6b, my favorites may not be appropriate if you live in a very cold or very warm climate.
Also find out each plant’s size, whether it can tolerate partial sun, and what its bloom time is. You probably don’t want to end up with a garden that only has flowers in June!
The Best Flowering Shade Perennials
Of course it’s not possible to determine what the ‘best’ plants are. You can research yourself to find what you think are the best perennials for your shady garden, and buy what you like. To save you a bit of work, though, I’ll tell you what some of my favorite shade perennials are.
Here’s a list of 10 flowering perennials that grow in the shade, along with some information that will help you decide if they are the right plants for you:
Geranium
Zones 3-8
Geranium flowers are available in a multitude of colors and sizes. Many of the varieties will be quite happy in full shade. Others can handle partial shade. The plants will spread, making shorter varieties a great groundcover, and they don’t spread so aggressively as to become a problem. They can also be divided.
Geraniums range greatly in size, anywhere from 4-48” tall and 6-36” wide, and can bloom from spring to fall. Geranium flowers and leaves are edible, and are also used for medicinal purposes.
Barrenwort
Zones 5-9
Barrenwort has colorful foliage, and in mid- to late spring, tiny flowers in pink, orange, red, white, or yellow appear.
It grows well in full shade, but in partial shade it will produce more, and brighter, blooms. Varieties range from 6-15” high and 6-24” wide.
Bleeding Heart
Zones 3-9
A particular favorite, Bleeding Heart flowers come in many colors – classic pink, white, yellow, wine, violet, and red. In ideal conditions, they can grow to 3’ tall and 6’ wide. Blooms will appear in spring and if you cut the plant back after the flowers are spent, the plant may bloom again later in the summer.
Astilboides Tabularis
Zones 5-7
This is what to choose if you’d like an impressive plant with giant, umbrella-like leaves. It produces creamy white flowers from May-July, and the plant grows 4’ tall and 3’ wide, with some of its leaves measuring 24” across. Perfect for full shade, it can handle partial shade as well.
Astilbe
Zones 3-8
Astilbe plants produce gorgeous, fluffy flowers in white, pink, red, purple, or peach. Early-blooming varieties will flower in May or June, while late-bloomers begin to flower in July. By choosing more than one variety, you can set yourself up for color over the whole summer.
The varieties measure from 1-4’ tall, making them a good choice whether you’re looking for a tall shade perennial or something a bit smaller. It prefers partial shade, although it will grow in full shade, producing fewer blooms.
Astible is edible, and also used medicinally.
Hosta
Zones 3-9
There’s a certain variety of Hosta that seems to be everywhere, from shopping centers to yards, and honestly I don’t like the look of it at all. Luckily for me, there’s a huge number of Hosta varieties, each sporting different foliage colors and size.
A favorite of mine is the Filigree White Hosta, because it emerges with leaves that are white with green veins, which then progress to green as the season goes on. It grows to 24” tall and 24” wide, and produces lavender-colored flowers in mid-summer.
You may be surprised to learn that all parts of a Hosta plant are edible. Early spring shoots can be cooked as you would asparagus, a plant to which the Hosta is related. The leaves will taste better when they’re younger, and can be used in place of lettuce or spinach. The flowers are great as a garnish or tossed into a salad for a bit of color.
Dolce ‘Silver Gumdrop’ Coral Bells
Zones 4-9
With silvery leaves, this plant is beautiful whether it’s flowering or not. It blooms in mid-summer, its pink flowers growing about 20-24” above the plant itself, which is 6” tall and 16” wide.
It grows well in both shade and partial shade.
Fringe Cups
Zones 4-7
Blooming in April and May, with flowers that are first white, then pink, then red, Fringe Cups grow about 3’ tall and 2’ wide, with 2’ of that height coming from the flowers, which grow high about the foliage. Their leaves color up in the fall, and they are happy in partial shade.
‘Jack Frost’ Heartleaf Brunnera
Zones 3-8
Jack Frost produces blue flowers in mid- to late spring, but it’s best quality is its striking, variegated leaves. It grows 15” tall and 15” wide, and does well in both shade and partial shade.
Oxalis Oregana
Zones 6-9
This plant makes a beautiful groundcover, spreading through rhizomes underground. It grows up to 8” tall, and produces small pink or white flowers from early spring to summer.
The most exciting things about Oxalis Oregana, though, is that the underside of its clover-shaped leaves are purple or pink. I love a good surprise! Walking through a patch of plants, your movement will ripple the leaves, allowing you to see both colors.
The flowers are edible, as are the leaves, which should be cooked before eating. The plant also has medicinal uses.
Is That Enough Plants for a Perennial Shade Garden?
I first want to acknowledge that plants are not cheap. Making a garden is not something that has to be done in one swoop. We can buy plants as we can afford them, and some years from now we’ll have the garden we imagined. And remember, gardening friends will be happy to give you splits of their plants, and some plants are easily grown by seed.
Whether the plants I listed are enough for your shade garden will, of course, will depend on the size of your garden area and the number of each variety you plant.
If you were to plant all ten of these perennials, you could enjoy white, yellow, pink, red, orange, peach, purple, and blue flowers. You’d have plants of many different sizes, and a wide variety of foliage shapes and colors. Between them all, you’d have at least one plant blooming from spring to fall. But remember, you may want to consider choosing fewer varieties and getting more of the ones you do choose.
Whatever plants you decide on, keep in mind that gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about playing in the dirt, connecting to nature, and expressing your creativity. Whatever you think is beautiful, is beautiful!
Plant a Sustainable Future: Celebrating Earth Day with DIY Wildflower Seed Balls
Seed bombs are one of my favorite nature craft ideas, because they are simple, fast and easy for anyone to do and the result is a more beautiful planet. Since the seeds do not need to be buried to grow, you can just toss your seed bombs into empty and neglected areas, watch and wait and in a few months you should have some beautiful flowers growing! The patch will likely self-seed and continue to develop and grow with each passing year that goes by.
The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.
One of my most loved books from childhood is Miss Rumphius by Barbara Cooney. Miss Rumphius was inspired by the real life "Lupine Lady," Hilda Hamlin, who spread lupine seeds along the Maine coast. The story follows Miss Rumphius through her younger days into old age as she spreads lupine seeds from her bicycle all the way up until she is lying sick in bed and enjoying the view she has created outside her bedroom window after spreading all these seeds over the years. This imagery has always been powerful to me, but it was made even more so after I read The Well-Gardened Mind by Sue Stuart Smith this past winter and learned how patients staying in hospital rooms with a nature-facing window recover 37% faster than patients who do not have this visual access to nature at all. This is leading to more hospitals instituting green spaces throughout their campuses as a real, science-backed method of care.
Reading this fact, it got me thinking that even outside of the carefully date driven measurements within a hospital, surely there must be some benefit to our wellbeing in simply going about our days surrounded by natural beauty. It’s not a far stretch when you picture how much more peaceful you feel outside. The sturdy presence of ancient trees combined with swaying branches, birdsong and the thrill of a flower in bloom stimulates our minds and encourages us to be mindful.
I imagine spreading seeds just like The Lupine Lady herself did, bringing beauty to the landscapes I call home and even leaving a legacy in the form of wildflowers throughout the land. It is the kind of quiet hope we all need these days - a flower popping up where there wasn’t one before. An offering to pause and enjoy our surroundings.
With the arrival of Earth Day 2025, I am feeling the pull even stronger than usual to do something to connect with the Earth, celebrate the natural beauty around us and bring awareness to what needs to change in order to protect our home planet. The first Earth Day took place in 1970, marking the beginning of the modern day environmental movement as we now know it. It offers us the opportunity to promote conservation and sustainability, raising awareness of the impacts our decisions have on the environment. On this day, around 1 billion individuals across more than 190 countries take action to raise awareness of the climate crisis and bring about behavioral change to protect the environment through reducing our energy use, carbon footprint and more. It really is a great opportunity to reflect and find new ways to support our one and only home.
So where do seed bombs fit into all of this? Seed bombs are a fun and accessible way to bring a joyful nature activity into your Earth Day celebrations. Seed bombs are simply a collection of biodegradable materials like paper and clay shredded and combined with a variety of wildflower seeds, molded into a ball shape (or any shape you like really) and dried. Once dry, you can drop them on blank areas of earth by roadsides or parks and the ball will naturally break down in the elements, leaving only the seeds behind which will plant themselves and hopefully grow into beautiful flowers to support our pollinators.
As you’ll see, there are as many ways to make seed bombs as there are hands to make them with. But here are some of the main ingredients you can use in a seed bomb DIY:
Newspaper/paper scraps: any paper destined for the recycling bin will do, although you may want to ensure any dyes used were soy-based if you’re concerned about leaching dyes into the soil. Personally I think newspaper is just fine even if you can’t confirm the inks are soy based, but I wouldn’t necessarily use a brightly colored construction paper for this one since the dyes probably aren’t good for the soil.
Clay: if you’re having trouble with your seed bombs sticking together, clay is an excellent binder that can help give them some structural integrity. You don’t need this for a successful seed bomb though.
Topsoil and compost: Compost and topsoil aren’t strictly necessary for a wildflower seed bomb, but they will provide your seeds a little extra boost and may increase germination rates (or how many of your seeds will actually grow into flowers) since you’re effectively coating the seeds which mimics being buried in the ground. The thing about wildflower seeds is that they spread through landing on the surface of soil all the time, so they don’t really need to be buried to grow usually.
Seeds: You won’t need a huge bucket of seeds here since the majority of the mass of the seed ball is made up of the paper, but it is important to choose wildflower seed varieties or herbs and vegetables that are native to your area and will not encourage invasive species to grow.
The importance of choosing native seeds
Why does it matter what seeds you use in your wildflower seed bombs? Because the last thing you want to be doing on Earth Day is actually planting invasive plants that will crowd out native species. An invasive species is an introduced species that becomes overpopulated and harms its new environment. Invasive species adversely affect habitats and bioregions, causing ecological, environmental, and/or economic damage. Not a good thing! On the other hand, native plants will encourage and support your local pollinators by providing a diverse food source and tend to require less care, watering and other maintenance since they are hard-wired to grow well in your climate.
The easiest way to ensure you’re planting native seeds is to buy a seed mix like this one. If you are outside of the USA, try to find a local garden supply company that can help you. Otherwise I’d recommend just choosing three or four flowers you’d like to grow and using trusty Google to confirm they are native to your area. I could give you a list that would cover the major areas, but you’ll learn better from doing a bit of the research yourself!
One last thing; I’m sure you know this, but it has to be said! Never distribute your seed bombs on private property or protected parks. Stick to civic spaces that have long since been neglected or local public areas that could use a bit of rewilding.
What plants are best for seed bombs?
We’ve talked a lot about wildflowers, but did you know that you can also use edible plants such as lettuce, sage, basil, cilantro and even tomato seeds in your seed bomb DIY? I personally used meadow flowers in my mix including black eyed susan, cornflower, marigold, Californian poppies, cosmos and bachelor button. I think using edible flowers and herbs would be so fun - imagine taking your morning walk through the neighborhood and seeing little patches of lettuce and calendula free for the taking for your afternoon snack! I dream of a day when our wild spaces are full of edible free food to share with our communities.
How to make seed bombs step by step
Supplies
Newspaper/paper scraps
Bowl
Water
Parchment paper
Baking sheet/plate
OPTIONAL: clay, compost, topsoil
Instructions:
Making seed bombs is simple. Shred your paper into small pieces and soak in water, or soak whole pieces and then blend in a food processor. Combine your shredded paper with seeds (and compost/clay/topsoil if you’d like) in a bowl. Form into golf ball sized globes and squeeze tightly to compress and remove excess moisture. Place on your parchment paper on the baking sheet or just use a plate and allow to dry for 24 hours before using. You can even place them into a small drawstring bag and give them out as Earth Day gifts to friends and family!
How do you use seed bombs?
Seed bombs are one of my favorite nature craft ideas, because they are simple, fast and easy for anyone to do and the result is a more beautiful planet. Since the seeds do not need to be buried to grow, you can just toss your seed bombs into empty and neglected areas, watch and wait and in a few months you should have some beautiful flowers growing! The patch will likely self-seed and continue to develop and grow with each passing year that goes by.
If you’re looking for nature walk activities to do this Earth Day, I hope you’ll give this seed bomb DIY a try and bring them along with you on your adventure. And remember: every day should be Earth Day, so if you’re reading this and it’s already come and gone, don’t let that stop you from giving it a try and bringing some beauty to our one and only home!
Adding herbal and aromatherapy elements to your bathing ritual has been a long standing tradition in cultures around the world, but there’s just something extra rewarding about it when you grow those flowers and herbs yourself. So head out to the garden and clip a few sprigs of whatever calls to you - we’ll go over some of the easiest ways to include plants in your shower routine.
Learning about how different herbs can provide different benefits for the skin and body can bring you closer to nature and yourself, as well as offering a ton of ways you can support yourself through a self care ritual not rooted in consumerism (hard to find these days). You’re probably familiar with using fragrant botanicals like eucalyptus and lavender in your spa shower routine, but here’s a few more herbs and flowers you should consider including next time you’re looking for a soothing sensory experience in the shower: