Garden Planning Part 2: Designing Your Garden Layout

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Planning your first garden can feel intimidating, but I want to show you a simple process that I use in my own garden design that breaks each step down into manageable pieces. This is a project I typically work on over the course of a few weekends here and there - it won’t necessarily take hours to complete, but it’s nice not to rush the process so you can modify and tweak things after giving yourself time to mull it over.

How to decide what to plant in your garden

I cover this in depth in my seed selection post which you can read by clicking here, but the key is to identify what foods your family eats the most of, that will grow well in your particular garden climate. This list is your starting point - all we have to do is assign each plant on the list to a particular spot in your garden layout based on a couple important factors, including what plants grow well together, what plants are natural “enemies”, the location of the sun on the land, and how many of each type of plant you will be growing. But I’ll cover all of that in a minute. First let's decide where your new garden should go.

How to decide where to put a garden

The best time to choose the location of your new garden bed is after about a year of careful observation, because this gives you a full year of seasons to notice and document the weather patterns (if an area tends to flood or dry out quickly for example) as well as the positioning of the sun throughout the spring, summer and fall. But if you’re reading this with the intention of beginning your new garden in a few days, weeks or months don’t fret! Some educated guesses can be made based on just a few days of observations. 

First, note the direction of the sun. In a perfect world a north-south orientation is best for low-growing crops, allowing direct sunlight to reach both sides of the bed. For taller crops such as pole beans, cucumbers and tomatoes an east-west orientation works best. The sun rises in the east and sets in the west, so just pay attention to your sunrise and sunset locations and you’ll be able to orient yourself based on that.

Next, throughout the day you’ll want to pay attention to shade and shadows. For instance, is there a tall treeline that means a certain area of the land does not get full sun throughout the day? If you have a choice to plant in full sun, you absolutely should - however, this doesn’t mean that your shady yard is inhospitable to planting. You’ll just need to modify your list of crops you plan to grow to include only those who thrive in lower light conditions.

Finally, notice the slope of the land. Unless your yard is perfectly flat, you probably have areas that will be easier to transform into a garden than others. We’ll talk about what to do if all the land available to you is on a slope next.

QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF WHEN GARDEN PLANNING:

What is the purpose of the garden? Is it for aesthetics, food production, or a combination of both?

What is the climate and soil type of the area? What plants are suitable for this type of environment?

What is the size and shape of the garden space? How much sunlight does it receive? What is the orientation?

What type of plants do you want to grow? Do you prefer perennials or annuals? Do you want to grow edibles or ornamentals?

What is your budget for the garden? How much money do you have to spend on plants, materials, and tools?

How much time and effort are you willing to devote to the garden? Do you want a low-maintenance garden or are you willing to put in the work to maintain it?

What is the style of the garden? Do you want a formal or informal garden? Do you prefer a wild and natural look or a more structured appearance?

What is your level of gardening expertise? Are you a beginner or an experienced gardener?

Raised beds vs in-ground

Now that you’ve picked the location for your garden, it’s time to decide if you want to grow food in the ground or in raised beds. Each method has its pros and cons. I chose to switch to primarily all raised beds this year because fighting weeds in-ground and bending over the soil was not working for my back any more with my arthritis. The downside is that this means I have to pay for the beds themselves as well as the soil/compost to fill them. If you’re on a budget and don’t have the same physical limitations as I do, gardening in ground allows you to benefit from the pre-existing ecosystem within your soil including worms and beneficial bacteria and also means your plants won’t need to be watered as often.

If you’re gardening on a slope, I strongly recommend raised beds. With raised beds that sit on the earth you will be able to actually dig the base of the bed into the soil to make it even, effectively creating a level surface on which to plant. Just be mindful not to locate any plants that are sensitive to root rot at the lowest point of your slope since rainwater will collect most easily there.

How many vegetable plants do you need per person?

This is highly individual depending on your family and what you like to eat. You should definitely prioritize space in your garden for the foods you eat the most. For us, that means we grow a lot more broccoli, green beans and bell peppers than anything else. And no matter how much squash you THINK you will eat, one or two plants per household will probably yield more than you’ll ever be able to finish without sharing with your neighbors and friends. If you know you go through a lot of pesto, it’s a good idea to plant 20-30 basil plants. Refer to the chart below for some common amounts for popular vegetables.

What is companion planting?

Just as there are plants that do not grow well near each other because they compete for resources, there are many plants that get along quite well and actually offer benefits to their neighbors. You can harness this “companion planting” effect to grow more food in an even smaller space. You can also utilize taller, stronger plants to act as trellises for vining plants, prevent weeds by creating a thick overstory that will choke them out, planting certain herbs and flowers as a trap crop to repel pests, and benefit your neighboring plants with the addition of nitrogen fixing varieties such as snap peas or pull nutrients to higher levels for your shallow rooted plants with crops such as root vegetables.

Plants that grow well together:

There are countless companion plant combinations, but here are a few to get you started:

• For “trap crops” to keep pests away from your plants or repel them entirely, look into basil, dill, marigold, mint, nasturtium, sage and zinnias.

• Grow basil within 12 inches of tomatoes to increase your harvest. Basil also improves the flavor of lettuce.

• Growing chives near your carrots will improve their flavor. 

• Beans like to grow with Beets, carrots, chard, cabbage, corn, cucumbers, peas, and radishes.

• Strawberries like to grow with bush beans, chives, lettuce, onions, sage, spinach, and squash.

Plants you shouldn’t plant near each other:

Some plants compete with each other for resources or in the case of sunflowers for example, actively leech compounds into the soil that can cause harm to neighboring plants. Here are just a few common enemies in the garden.

Squash and potatoes

Tomatoes and corn

Zucchini and pumpkin

Asparagus and garlic

What is crop rotation?

Crop rotation means that you intentionally do not plant the same type of plant in the same exact spot each year, you “rotate” it to a new location. For example, nightshades such as tomatoes are prone to microbial diseases that live in the soil. For this reason it is recommended that you do not plant in the same spot for 4 years after the initial planting. Other nitrogen dependent crops such as corn suck so much fertilizer out of the soil that you want to give the earth a break before replanting the same variety in the same spot. This will be more important in your second and following years of gardening, so don’t worry about it too much right now!

how to design your garden layout

Now that you have your final list of plants, your garden location and type and an overall understanding of the basic concepts of companion planting and how many plants you will need, the hard work is done! All we are going to do now is effectively “fill in the blanks”.

All you will need is some paper and a pencil, but if you want to get really crafty with it, print out some graph paper and grab your highlighters too.

Start by drawing out the outline of the shape and size of the garden beds you will be creating. I like to do this to scale with graph paper where each square equals a square foot of the garden. You don’t need to get this precise with it - if you have a 4x4 area or raised garden bed, just draw a nice sized square on your blank paper and add your own grid lines or rows as you see fit.

Now go back to your plant list of everything you plan to grow this season. Assign each plant on the list a letter from A to Z. You should also write down the number of plants for each item on the list next to the plant name.

All you need to do now is just fill in your blank garden squares with the corresponding letter for each plant to assign it a location and the number of plants you will be planting in that square.

That’s really all there is to it! Once this is complete I like to go back and reorganize the plant list based on when I need to start the seeds and transplant into the ground after our last frost, but that’s a conversation for another day.

Need seeds? Tap here to visit my favorite seed company

Click here for part one: Choosing & Organizing Seeds

Click here for part two: Starting Seeds Indoors

Click here for part four: How to Use Companion Planting To Grow More Food

Garden Planning Part 1: How to Decide What to Grow & Organize Your Seeds

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

We’ve been tucked away and hibernating for what feels like forever now, but all signs point to an end to winter and a new beginning in the form of spring. Spring historically symbolizes rebirth, renewal, a reset button on the weather and by extension our moods and habits. And while tending your vegetable garden may still feel a long way off depending on where you live, now is the best time to start planning a garden bed.

The seed catalogs have been arriving in droves, and I’ve found myself more than once justifying adding another to my collection. For the months of January through April, I treat seed catalogs with the same care as a beloved book, kept in a tidy stack and savoring each page daily as I plan and dream what we will grow this year. Why are seed catalogs so important to me? The truth you may not know if you haven’t had one delivered to your home before is that these catalogs are so much more than places to see and buy seeds - they can serve as a garden planning guide too. 

How to use a seed catalog

A seed catalog can seem overwhelming at first. They are packed full of information and item listings, plant descriptions and charts. It’s a good idea to go into your seed catalog reading with an open mind - skim through and see what you are drawn to, while keeping in mind the foods you already know you enjoy eating. Pull out a pen and circle your favorites or write notes in the margins/on a blank piece of paper. This piece takes me less time each year as I have grown as a gardener, but the earlier in your vegetable garden adventure you are, the longer it will take. Give yourself at least a week of casual exploration before moving onto the next stage. 

Where to buy garden seeds

It can be trickier than you’d think to identify reputable seed companies. Due to the monopoly created by Monsanto, there are many companies that carry Monsanto owned seeds that may surprise you. This is because Monsanto owns such a large proportion of the world’s food supply seeds (and then “retires” them so no one can access them any more - yes, it’s as bad as it sounds).

In recent years they’ve bought one of the largest garden seed wholesalers in the world, Seminis, which is stocked by companies including Johnny’s and Territorial. 

These companies offer a wide variety of high quality seed and their partnership with this Monsanto subsidiary is small and accounts for a tiny fraction of their inventory. But in order to avoid supporting Monsanto when purchasing through these smaller suppliers you’ll want to email them directly to confirm which seeds may originate from a Monsanto subsidiary so you can avoid them.

Tap here to shop My favorite seed company, which has consistently offered the best variety of organic and conventional seed with beautiful packaging, high germination rates, and healthy plants.

How to get free seeds:

Want free seeds? I occasionally give away excess seed from my own garden to newsletter subscribers. Click here to sign up to be the first to know when seeds are available.

Per AltNPS: “Pollinators such as bees and butterflies, play a crucial role in maintaining and improving our ecosystems. They help to grow the plants that we eat every single day, are vital parts of the natural food-chain, and serve as ecosystem barometers due to their sensitivity to climate change.

In the past 5 years, bees and butterflies have declined remarkably. Saving these creatures is imperative to humankind since approximately 75% of the fruits, vegetables, and nuts we eat are courtesy of pollinators. Bees and butterflies also beautify our planet; their important role in plant reproduction perpetuates floral growth and provides aesthetically pleasing landscapes for human enjoyment and faunal habitat.”

There are free seed programs online specially designed to help gardener’s plant more pollinator-friendly gardens. Go to https://altnps.org/seed-packs and fill out the form to have free Milkweed or Black-Eyed Susan seeds sent to your door!

How to choose what to grow: Planning a vegetable garden

At this point, you should have a few plants in mind that you notice you are most excited about growing yourself. Make a list with those plants at the top, then add on to the list by including whatever fruits and vegetables your family eats most. Last, add any plants you’d really like to just experiment with and see what happens.

Next, head to Google and find your growing zone by searching “Grow zone + your zip code”. Write down your zone - this determines your average climate, temperature, and weather pattern. For example, we are in zone 6B in Massachusetts, which means we have short, moderately hot summers and long, deeply cold winters. Not a great climate to try and grow slow to ripen tropical fruits or even peppers in, since both of those categories of plants demand intense heat and long seasons. As much as I might *want* to grow papaya, I know it’s just not going to happen in my grow zone. However, if you live in Florida your papaya plant would thrive.

Using the charts within the catalog or Google again to cross check your list and eliminate any that can’t thrive in your growing zone. If you’re noticing any gaps or your list doesn’t seem long enough, consider adding some beneficial flowering plants to support pollinators in your garden. There are many good reasons to support pollinators in your garden - they are responsible for helping your fruiting plants to grow and thrive.

When should you order seeds for your vegetable garden?

Seeds have an exceptionally long shelf life - most varieties will survive in dormancy for 1-5 years. So it is never too early to start ordering seeds for your vegetable garden. Some gardeners on a budget even take advantage of end of season and holiday sales to stock up on their seeds for next season as early as November of the year before. Of course, the best seeds are free, saved from your best plants grown the year before. There is nothing more rewarding than following the family tree of your garden vegetables and continuing their legacy through seed selection and saving.

Organizing seeds

When you’re thinking about how to plan a vegetable garden, organization should be at the top of your list. Especially once you start saving seeds, a proper labeling and organization system will be the only way you can possibly keep track of everything. Don’t convince yourself that you will just “remember what everything was” next year. Unless it’s a very distinct seed like a nasturtium, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to keep all those tiny parcels straight without a system.

There are as many ways to label and contain seeds as there are gardeners in the world, but here are a few of my favorites, after years of experimenting:

Storing seeds

If you’re planning to create a seed bank where you store your seeds indefinitely for 10+ years, the best thing you can do is store seeds in airtight glass containers in a cool, dry, dark place. However, most seeds in regular rotation will store just fine for up to three years in their paper packets as long as the area of your home where you store them isn’t exceptionally hot or humid. Many gardeners collect TicTac containers to hold their vegetable seeds as they are small and easy to store and label. In the past, I used a plastic photo organizer in combination with paper seed envelopes. While this method allows me to categorize by type (greens in one plastic container, beans in another) and variety (separate envelopes within the ‘greens’ plastic container for lettuce, spinach, kale and chard) while keeping the seeds well protected from external forces that could shorten their lifespan, after a few years I found it frustrating - seeds would fall out all the time, I hated having the dig through each container to find the one I wanted, and packets inevitably ended up just sitting on top of the box waiting to be put away. It was also bulky and heavy to carry out to the garden with me on big planting days and I dropped it more than once.

My favorite method for organizing seeds is the binder method. All you need is a 3 ring binder and these photo sleeve inserts. It’s kind of like how you might have stored your Pokemon or baseball cards as a kid - you can see everything at once, and it’s easy to put away any seed packet you just used. However, this method only works for standard size seed packets - corn and beans won’t fit. And, if you save seeds from your own garden, you’d need to also make your own paper seed packets to contain them first.

In addition to this binder method for my store bought seeds, I also have a mini “seed bank” going. This is a wooden box that custom fits tiny glass bottles in which I store seeds saved from my own garden. There are limitations with this as well when it comes to larger seeds, but overall it’s beautiful and functional for small quantities.

Labeling seeds

This can be as simple or complex as you would like. A sharpie pen on the outside or lid of your chosen container will work just fine. Or get an old school label maker and punch out your labels with that. There are even custom printable labels available on etsy if aesthetics are important to you. The only thing that matters is choosing a system you will actually follow through on and use - because labeling your seeds is vital to an organized system.

What to grow in Your Vegetable garden:

Are you still wondering what to grow in your garden this year? Here’s my list of nearly everything I’m starting from seed for my garden this year. You can tap individual seed packets to shop: 

• Alaska Variegated Nasturtium Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Astro Arugula/Rocket Seeds
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• Price: $2.99

• Baby Choi Bok Choy Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Big Seeded Mache (Corn Salad) Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Bloomsdale Spinach Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Bok Choy Choko Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Buttercrunch Butterhead Lettuce Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• California Giants Blend Zinnia Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Carnival Blend Carrot Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Casperita Pumpkin Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Common Sorrel Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Danvers 126 Carrot Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Easter Egg Blend Radish Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• French Breakfast Radish Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Gai Choy Mustard Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Green Globe Improved Artichoke Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Hearts of Gold Cantaloupe/Muskmelon Melon Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Honey Boat Winter Delicata Squash Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• King Richard Leek Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Lacinato Dinosaur Kale Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Lakota Winter Squash Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Love-Lies-Bleeding Amaranth Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Marketmore Cucumber Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Mizuna Mustard Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Mountain Sweet Yellow Watermelon Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Olesh Tres Fine Endive Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Purple Emperor Trailing Nasturtium Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Red Russian Kale Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Rosette Tatsoi Bok Choy Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Round Black Spanish Radish Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Ruby Red/Rhubarb Swiss Chard Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Sea Shells Blend Cosmos Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Sugar Baby Watermelon Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Sugar Magnolia Snap Pea Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Sugar Pie Pumpkin Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Sugar Snap Snap Pea Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Teddy Bear Dwarf Sunflower Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Tendergreen Mustard Spinach Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Tokyo Long White Bunching/Scallion Onion Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Touchstone Gold Beet Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Waltham Butternut Winter Squash Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

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When you’re wondering how to start a garden, come back to this list for inspiration. What Are you growing this year?

Click here for part two: Designing Your Garden Layout

Click here for part three: How To Start Seeds Indoors

Click here for part four: How To Use Companion Planting To Grow More Food

Unlocking the Culinary Potential of Your Garden With Edible Flowers

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Edible cut flower gardens can bring so much joy to your kitchen. I love topping a fresh salad with spice nasturtiums, or pressing pansies into shortbread cookies. I’m a firm believer that adults need opportunities to play too - and growing flowers that we can eat is the perfect way to incorporate that playful energy into our days. Outside of garnishes and baking, they can make an excellent cup of tea, or folded into fresh churned butter you can add color to your breakfast toasts and more. The options are endless when it comes to what you can do with edible flowers. Playing with texture, scent and color can turn an otherwise basic recipe into something really special to share with friends and family this summer and beyond. My favorite cakes have been topped with sage leaves and calendula blossoms, and you can make a mocktail truly unique with just a few sprigs of lavender.

Health Benefits of Flowers

There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that fresh flowers inside can have a positive impact on mental health. Here are a few of the key benefits:

Boosts mood: Research has shown that flowers can have an immediate impact on mood, making people feel happier and more relaxed.

Reduces stress: Flowers have been shown to have a calming effect, reducing feelings of anxiety and stress.

Improves memory: Studies have found that having fresh flowers in the home can improve memory, particularly in older adults.

Increases creativity: Flowers have been found to stimulate the mind and increase creativity, making them a great addition to workspaces or creative spaces.

Promotes well-being: Fresh flowers have been shown to promote a sense of well-being, helping people to feel more balanced and centered.

Provides a connection to nature: Flowers are a reminder of the beauty and abundance of nature, providing a connection to the natural world and promoting feelings of peace and calm.

When starting a cut flower garden with edible flowers, you may not know in advance if you’ll actually enjoy the flavor of the flowers you are growing - most of us have never eaten flowers before! Often, they taste a lot like they smell. But in the case of nasturtiums for example, they can have an unexpected heat. Go into your garden planning with a mindset of experimentation and you are sure to be amazed, even if your flowers end up being more for the birds and bees than your plate. There’s no such thing as a flower failure. And don’t forget that many of your favorite vegetables and fruits like snap peas and strawberries start off as flowers that can be eaten and adorned too. If you’re new to gardening, these experiments will give you the experience you need to grow confident in all your future gardening endeavors. If you’re already a gardening expert, edible flowers offer the opportunity to bring something new and unexpected into your regular gardening routine, a colorful surprise to enjoy all summer long.

Overall, fresh flowers inside have been shown to have a positive impact on mental health, helping people to feel happier, more relaxed, and more connected to the world around them. Whether you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home, workspace, or creative space, the mental health benefits are undeniable.

Below are some of my favorite flowers for a cut garden bed. They all have a good vase life and are easily started by seed. There are many, many other edible flowers not included on this list, so I encourage you to do some research of your own.

Calendula

Calendula prefers partial shade, and grows 10-12” tall. For the longest vase life, pick the flowers when they’ve just opened, and pick often to encourage more blooms.

The leaves and flowers of Calendula are edible. The leaves are bitter, and best used in salad. The flowers are rich in antioxidants and are used in salads, or as a garnish. 

Both the leaves and flowers can be used to make tea. Pick fully open blooms, and if you’d like, leaves. You can use them fresh, or save some for later. For storage, let them dry indoors until they are crunchy and save them in an airtight container.

Calendula has been used externally to treat rashes, burns, and wounds for hundreds of years. Its dried flowers are said to boost the immune system.

Zinnia

Zinnia prefers full sun, and its height depends upon which variety you are growing. To determine when they should be picked, use the wiggle test: hold the stem about 8” down from the flower and shake it gently. If the stem bends, it is not ready. If it stays perpendicular, it’s ready for harvesting. Harvest often for more blooms.

Zinnia is used in salads and as a garnish. Fresh or dried flowers can be used to make tea. They can also be used to make a simple syrup for use in cocktails (or mocktails).

Zinnia have been used medicinally for their antifungal, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antimalarial qualities.

Flower Sunspot Sunflower

Unsurprisingly, Sunspot Sunflowers grow in full sun. They are a dwarf variety, growing only 2-3 feet tall.. For the longest vase life, they should be picked when they are just starting to fully open.

Sunflower seeds are packed with nutrition and are a source of protein. The seeds are ready for harvesting when the back of the sunflower has begun to brown. At that point, they will be dry enough to remove from the flower. Alternatively, they can be kept on the flower in a dry space.

Sunflower petals can be used in soups or salads, or as a garnish. Dried petals can be used to make tea.

Sunflower seeds support the immune system, and are linked to lower cholesterol and blood pressure. They have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Dried Sunflower petals are used in salves, facial scrubs, and soap, among other things. 

Snapdragons

Snapdragons grow in full sun. Their height varies depending on variety. They should be picked while still closed for the longest vase life. They should be picked often to encourage blooms.

Snapdragon leaves and flowers are edible and anti-inflammatory, but some varieties can be bitter. It is used to make tea, in salads, or as a garnish.

The leaves and flowers of Snapdragons have been used for a wide variety of symptoms and diseases, from watery eyes to liver disorder. 

Lisianthus

Lisianthus grow in full sun, reaching between one and three feet tall. They should be picked when one or more flowers on the stem are open. They are also used in dried flower arrangements.

Lisianthus flowers are edible, but are quite bitter.

Lisianthus has been used for its antibacterial and antifungal properties. 

Pincushion

Pincushion grows in full sun, and is 6-12 inches tall and 9-24 inches wide. They are used in fresh and dried floral arrangements. Pincushion flowers should be picked when they are still in bud for the longest vase life.

Pincushion is used in tea, salads, and garnishes. 

Pincushion has been used to treat inflammation, and to treat coughs, sore throat, and fever. Externally, it is used for skin conditions such as eczema and rashes.

China Aster

China Aster grows in full sun, reaching 3 feet tall. Flowers should be picked when they are halfway open for the longest vase life.

China Aster flowers and leaves can be used fresh or dried, in salads and tea. To make tea for storage, dry your flowers upside down until they crumble easily, then put them in an airproof container.

China Aster has been used to treat earaches, headaches, and toothaches.

Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)

Gomphrena grow in full sun and are about 2 feet tall. When harvesting, their stems should be cut at the base of the plant. They are beautiful in fresh and dried arrangements.

Gomphrena’s fresh flowers are not appetizing due to their texture, but can be used as a garnish or to make tea. 

Gomphrena has been used for a wide variety of medicinal purposes, from diabetes and high blood pressure to respiratory disorders. 

Verbena (Common Vervain)

Verbena grows in full sun, reaching 1-5 feet tall. They are annual or short-lived perennials. Harvest when half of the flowers have opened.

Verbena is used in fruit salads, desserts and for tea. 

Verbena is used externally to treat burns, arthritis, and itching, and internally for insomnia, epilepsy, and anxiety.

Stock

Stock grows in full sun or partial shade, and is from 1-3 feet tall. For longer vase life, flowers should be picked when they are a third to halfway open. They are excellent for use in dried flower arrangements.

Stock is a member of the cabbage family. Its flowers and pods are edible and are used in salads and tea, but its leaves, stems, and roots are not edible. Their flavor is a bit peppery. 

Stock has been used as an expectorant and as an aphrodisiac. 

What edible flowers do you grow?

10 Perennial Plants That Will Thrive in Your Shady Garden

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Choosing the Best Flowering Perennial Plants for Your Shade Garden

Beautiful shade gardens are a bit trickier than sunny gardens simply because there’s a much wider variety of perennials that grow in full sun than perennials that grow in shade. It can be done, though, and I’m here to help you do it.

One way to make a garden is to fly by the seat of your pants – go to the garden center, pick what looks pretty to you, make sure they like the shade, then figure out where to put them when you get home. I did plenty of that myself in my early years of gardening, and still do sometimes. As I’ve become more experienced, though, I’ve come to appreciate the role of planning in garden design.

What is a Perennial Plant?

First, let’s talk about what a perennial plant is not. You know when you go to a garden center in the spring and there are plants already blooming with bright flowers and you’ve been starving for color all winter and you Must. Buy. Them. All? Those are annual plants, plants that will die in the fall of the year you put them in the ground.  You get the instant satisfaction of pretty colors in your yard, but you’ll have to do it all over again the next spring, and the one after that. 

Perennial plants may die back to the ground in fall or winter (some don’t), but their roots are still alive, and, year after year, each spring the plant will come back bigger, stronger, and with more blooms. These are the plants we use to build a garden that will become more lush and beautiful every year. Another great thing about perennials is that as they grow we can divide them, creating many plants from the one purchase.

How Do You Divide Perennial Plants?

As I explained in this post, most perennials are happy to be divided. There are two basic methods I use to I divide a perennial plant. The first is to use a sharp-edged shovel. Pressing straight down on the shovel with my foot, I can separate the roots belowground. It’s then easy to dig out only the section I want to move. The other way I divide a plant is to dig the whole thing up. Some plants’ roots will easily separate into pieces once they’re out of the ground. Others will need to be split with a shovel or gardening knife.

The benefits of making a plan for your garden

A little planning will ensure you choose plants that will thrive in your yard’s conditions. Maybe your shady area has one end that gets partial sun, you have a pile of rocks to plant around, or the area tends to be dry. Choosing the right plant for the right spot sets your plants up for success.

Planning your garden also allows time to think about what size each plant will grow to be, what its watering needs are, what types of foliage you’d like to see near each other, how much maintenance will be needed, and what color the flowers will be. 

You can also take the time to learn which plants might have edible or medicinal uses, making your garden both beautiful and useful.

**Please note that many plants which are edible for humans may be toxic to cats and dogs.**

How Many plants Should you Buy?

It’s tempting to buy one of each of the perennial plants you like, and that can be a good way to experiment and learn how different plants grow. As far as garden design goes, though, it’s better to choose fewer varieties of plants and get more of each of the ones you choose. 

Large swaths of the same plant have a bigger impact that a collection of different plants. They also make your garden look lush and intentional. Additionally, you might want to put the same variety of plants in different areas of the garden to provide balance.

Three is generally a magic number in design, and that holds true in the garden. If you can afford more than three, stick with an odd number for the most attractive outcome.

What Perennial Flowers for Shade Should you Buy?

As this is your very own garden, you should choose the plants you find most beautiful. While you’re looking, pay attention to what color flower each plant will produce. Maybe you want a garden where all the flowers are different shades of one color, or a garden with a certain palette of colors. Or maybe you want a riotous mix of every color you can find.

Pay attention also to the foliage of the plants. Perennials that grow in shade sometimes have flowers which  do not bloom for as long or as strikingly as sun-loving perennials do. The good news is each plant has a unique foliage color and shape, and they can be combined in ways that look good even when the plants are not flowering.

When choosing what perennial plants to buy, there are a few other things to think about. It’s important to look up each plant’s growing zone. You can find your own growing zone with the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Plants outside of your zone will not grow in your area. Because I live in Zone 6b, my favorites may not be appropriate if you live in a very cold or very warm climate.

Also find out each plant’s size, whether it can tolerate partial sun, and what its bloom time is. You probably don’t want to end up with a garden that only has flowers in June! 

The Best Flowering Shade Perennials

Of course it’s not possible to determine what the ‘best’ plants are. You can research yourself to find what you think are the best perennials for your shady garden, and buy what you like. To save you a bit of work, though, I’ll tell you what some of my favorite shade perennials are. 

Here’s a list of 10 flowering perennials that grow in the shade, along with some information that will help you decide if they are the right plants for you:

Geranium
Zones 3-8

Geranium flowers are available in a multitude of colors and sizes. Many of the varieties will be quite happy in full shade. Others can handle partial shade. The plants will spread, making shorter varieties a great groundcover, and they don’t spread so aggressively as to become a problem. They can also be divided.

Geraniums range greatly in size, anywhere from 4-48” tall and 6-36” wide, and can bloom from spring to fall. Geranium flowers and leaves are edible, and are also used for medicinal purposes.

Barrenwort
Zones 5-9

Barrenwort has colorful foliage, and in mid- to late spring, tiny flowers in pink, orange, red, white, or yellow appear.

It grows well in full shade, but in partial shade it will produce more, and brighter, blooms. Varieties range from 6-15” high and 6-24” wide.

Bleeding Heart
Zones 3-9

A particular favorite, Bleeding Heart flowers come in many colors – classic pink, white, yellow, wine, violet, and red. In ideal conditions, they can grow to 3’ tall and 6’ wide. Blooms will appear in spring and if you cut the plant back after the flowers are spent, the plant may bloom again later in the summer.

Astilboides Tabularis
Zones 5-7

This is what to choose if you’d like an impressive plant with giant, umbrella-like leaves. It produces creamy white flowers from May-July, and the plant grows 4’ tall and 3’ wide, with some of its leaves measuring 24” across. Perfect for full shade, it can handle partial shade as well.

Astilbe
Zones 3-8

Astilbe plants produce gorgeous, fluffy flowers in white, pink, red, purple, or peach. Early-blooming varieties will flower in May or June, while late-bloomers begin to flower in July. By choosing more than one variety, you can set yourself up for color over the whole summer.

The varieties measure from 1-4’ tall, making them a good choice whether you’re looking for a tall shade perennial or something a bit smaller. It prefers partial shade, although it will grow in full shade, producing fewer blooms.

Astible is edible, and also used medicinally.

Hosta
Zones 3-9

There’s a certain variety of Hosta that seems to be everywhere, from shopping centers to yards, and honestly I don’t like the look of it at all. Luckily for me, there’s a huge number of Hosta varieties, each sporting different foliage colors and size.

A favorite of mine is the Filigree White Hosta, because it emerges with leaves that are white with green veins, which then progress to green as the season goes on. It grows to 24” tall and 24” wide, and produces lavender-colored flowers in mid-summer.

You may be surprised to learn that all parts of a Hosta plant are edible. Early spring shoots can be cooked as you would asparagus, a plant to which the Hosta is related. The leaves will taste better when they’re younger, and can be used in place of lettuce or spinach. The flowers are great as a garnish or tossed into a salad for a bit of color.

Dolce ‘Silver Gumdrop’ Coral Bells
Zones 4-9

With silvery leaves, this plant is beautiful whether it’s flowering or not. It blooms in mid-summer, its pink flowers growing about 20-24” above the plant itself, which is 6” tall and 16” wide.

It grows well in both shade and partial shade.

Fringe Cups
Zones 4-7

Blooming in April and May, with flowers that are first white, then pink, then red, Fringe Cups grow about 3’ tall and 2’ wide, with 2’ of that height coming from the flowers, which grow high about the foliage. Their leaves color up in the fall, and they are happy in partial shade.

‘Jack Frost’ Heartleaf Brunnera
Zones 3-8

Jack Frost produces blue flowers in mid- to late spring, but it’s best quality is its striking, variegated leaves. It grows 15” tall and 15” wide, and does well in both shade and partial shade.

Oxalis Oregana
Zones 6-9

This plant makes a beautiful groundcover, spreading through rhizomes underground. It grows up to 8” tall, and produces small pink or white flowers from early spring to summer.

The most exciting things about Oxalis Oregana, though, is that the underside of its clover-shaped leaves are purple or pink. I love a good surprise! Walking through a patch of plants, your movement will ripple the leaves, allowing you to see both colors. 

The flowers are edible, as are the leaves, which should be cooked before eating. The plant also has medicinal uses.

Is That Enough Plants for a Perennial Shade Garden?

I first want to acknowledge that plants are not cheap. Making a garden is not something that has to be done in one swoop. We can buy plants as we can afford them, and some years from now we’ll have the garden we imagined. And remember, gardening friends will be happy to give you splits of their plants, and some plants are easily grown by seed.

Whether the plants I listed are enough for your shade garden will, of course, will depend on the size of your garden area and the number of each variety you plant. 

If you were to plant all ten of these perennials, you could enjoy white, yellow, pink, red, orange, peach, purple, and blue flowers. You’d have plants of many different sizes, and a wide variety of foliage shapes and colors. Between them all, you’d have at least one plant blooming from spring to fall. But remember, you may want to consider choosing fewer varieties and getting more of the ones you do choose.

Whatever plants you decide on, keep in mind that gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about playing in the dirt, connecting to nature, and expressing your creativity. Whatever you think is beautiful, is beautiful! 

Perennials for the Sun: A Guide to Choosing the Right Plants for Your Garden

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In planning your garden, it’s fair play to go to your local nursery and grab whatever you like the look of. However, if you’re interested in garden design and the best shot at successful and happy plants, incorporating some strategy and thought in choosing your flowering perennial plants will go a long way.

What is a Perennial Plant?

First, let’s talk about what a perennial plant is not. You know when you go to a garden center in the spring and there are plants already blooming with bright flowers and you’ve been starving for color all winter and you Must. Buy. Them. All? Those are annual plants, plants that will die in the fall of the year you put them in the ground. You get the instant satisfaction of pretty colors in your yard, but you’ll have to do it all over again the next spring, and the one after that.

Perennial plants may die back to the ground in fall or winter (some don’t), but their roots are still alive, and, year after year, each spring the plant will come back bigger, stronger, and with more blooms. These are the plants we use to build a garden that will become more lush and beautiful every year.

What are the Benefits of Perennial Plants?

Aside from lasting years, there are other benefits to planting perennials. Many perennial flowers will bloom all summer, and they are beneficial to birds and other creatures in our yards, as they create habitats and dependable sources of food.

While the upfront cost of the plant may be higher than for an annual plant, the lifetime cost will not be. This is true not only because we spread that cost over years, but because one perennial plant can easily be separated as it matures and become two, or ten, or twenty plants over time.

How Do You Divide Perennial Plants?

Most perennials are happy to be divided, and in fact, some must be divided in order to thrive. Talk of green thumbs can cause people to believe plants are delicate and complicated. The truth is, the vast majority are hardy and can take a bit more roughness than you might imagine.

There are two basic ways I divide a perennial plant. The first is to use a sharp-edged shovel. Pressing straight down on the shovel with my foot, I can separate the roots belowground. It’s then easy to dig out only the section I want to move. The other way I divide a plant is to dig the whole thing up. Some plants’ roots will easily separate into pieces once they’re out of the ground. Others will need to be split with a shovel, as above.

Bulbs are perennials which need to be dug up and separated. When the plant is scooped out of the ground, you will find that the bulb has multiplied, with smaller bulbs attached to it which are very easy to take off with your fingers and replant elsewhere.

Where Should I Plant My Perennials?

When making a garden, a good mantra is, “right plant, right place”. If we can find just the right plants for different spots in our yard, they will thrive with very little input from us.

In order to put the right plant in the right place, you need to become familiar with the land. Where does the sun shine all day? Where is it shady in the afternoon? Is there an area with dappled light? Does it feel much warmer near the wall of your house? When it rains, where do puddles form?

The land you live on is not all one climate. There are microclimates – pockets and hilltops, large empty areas, windbreaks, and spots near a building or fence. To learn more about this concept, I recommend the book Gaia’s Garden, by Toby Hemenway. It may take a couple of reads to really understand the many things that create different conditions in different areas of our property, but in the meantime, you’ll have the basic idea and can start planting. You’ll see what fails and what is happy, and over time you’ll learn more from your real life experience than you ever could from a book.

Once you’ve gotten to know the land, it’s time to research which plants will do best in the conditions of whatever areas you choose garden. There are plants that want only full sun and some that want full sun but will tolerate partial shade. There are plants that will only grow in full shade, drought-tolerant plants, and plants that like to keep their feet wet – they don’t want to live in a dry spot. You can find out the needs of each plant with a simple Google search.

You’ll also want to research how big the plants will get, keeping in mind the amount of space you have available to plant, and when they will bloom, so you don’t end up with everything blooming in June and there being no flowers in the garden for the rest of the season.

What Color Perennial Flowers Should I Choose?

You should choose whatever colors appeal to you. There are no rules! It can be good to pay attention to how many of each color you purchase, though, so you don’t end up with a garden that is all one color. (Unless that’s the look you’re going for – it can be gorgeous!)

How Many of Each Plant Should I Buy?

With so many perennials available, it can be tempting to buy just one of lots of different kinds. A lot of new gardeners start out that way, and it can be a good way to learn.

To make a cohesive garden, though, consider limiting the number of varieties you choose, and instead get more than one plant of those varieties. Large swaths of the same flower make a garden look intentional and full. It can also be a good idea to plant the same variety in different parts of the garden to provide balance. If you only have a few though, I recommend planting them near each other.

Three is generally a magic number in design, and that holds true in the garden. If you can afford more than three, stick with an odd number for the most attractive outcome.

What Full-Sun Perennials Should I Buy?

If you’re lucky enough to have some sunny spots in your garden, you’ll find many more options are available to you. There are plenty of shade perennials to make beautiful shade gardens (we’ll cover those next month), but your choices in a sunny spot are almost endless.

Below, I’ll save you a bit of trouble and list some of the best perennials to plant in the sun.

The first thing to check out is the plant’s growing zone. You can find out your growing zone with the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Plants outside of your zone will not grow in your area. Because I live in Zone 6b, my favorites may not be appropriate if you live in a very cold or very warm climate.

Remember also to look at size, whether it can tolerate partial shade even though it does best in the sun, what colors the blooms are, and what the bloom time is.

12 Full-Sun Perennials for Your Garden

Here’s some of my favorite full-sun perennials. I’m also including some important information that will help you to determine if they are the right plants for you.

‘Proud Berry’ Coralberry
Zones 3-7

The Coralberry is a shrub, growing 4’ tall and 4’ wide. It has berries of the most amazing pink, which unfortunately are not edible for humans. (The birds would thank you, though.) The berries hang onto the plant into the winter months, a nice pop of color under a light snow.

It prefers full sun, but will handle a bit of shade. It blooms in late summer, and the flowers develop into berries in the fall. It’s branches with berries are beautiful in a flower arrangement.

Pyromania Solar Flare Red Hot Poker
Zones 5-9

This plant grows 3’6” high and 2’6” wide, with bright yellow flowers of an uncommon shape. It blooms all summer and makes a great cut flower.

‘Curtain Call Deep Rose’ Japanese Anemone
Zones 4-8

This Anemone is happy in sun or part-shade. It grows to 18” tall and 18” wide, with pink flowers. The flowers bloom in late summer and early fall.

Red Creeping Thyme
Zones 5-10

Growing only 6” tall, this plant makes a beautiful magenta-red groundcover. Each plant will spread to about 10” wide, but over time they will spread even further. Planted short distances away from each other, they will form a large mat. Creeping Thyme works well on rock walls and between paving stones as well.

Mango Tango Anise Hyssop
Zones 6-9

This sun-loving plant grows 18” high and 16” wide. It can handle dry conditions and prefers a spot with good drainage. It’s peach and orange flowers bloom from mid-summer to early fall.

Prince of Orange Oriental Poppy
Zones 3-7

Vivid, orange, ruffled petals surround a dark center on this bright and happy plant. It prefers full sun, and grows 2’6” tall and 2’ wide. It blooms from late spring through early summer.

West Country Manhattan Lights Lupine
Zones 4-9

This variety blooms in part-sun and sun, and grows 3’ tall and 2’ wide. I love the classic blue Lupine, but what makes this one a favorite is its yellow and burgundy-purple flowers, which bloom in spring and early summer.

Beyond Midnight Bluebeard
Zones 5-9

This Caryopteris shrub variety produces tall blue flowers. It blooms from late summer to early fall, just as many flowers are checking out for the year, and grows 2’6” tall and 2’6” wide.
It needs full sun and good drainage to thrive. Soggy soil will cause root rot, killing your plant.

‘Denim ‘n Lace’ Russian Sage
Zones 4-9

This is a completely different plant to the sage we use as an herb. Its leaves are toxic and should not be eaten.

Denim and Lace provides beautiful wands of purple-blue flowers, on a plant that will grow to be 2-3’ high and 2-3’ wide. It prefers full sun, and blooms throughout summer to fall.

Decadence Deluxe ‘Pink Lemonade’
Zones 4-9

This is a Baptisia, sometimes known as False Indigo. Baptisia is available in a variety of colors, but Pink Lemonade is among my favorites. With its yellow and raspberry flowers, you’re getting two colors for the price of one.

It is a large plant, growing 4’ tall and 4’ wide, and almost looks like flowers in a vase, as it is narrow on the bottom and very full on top. It blooms from late April through June.

Dulce ‘Spearmint’ Coral Bells
Zones 4-9

This plant grows 10” high and 2 ½’ wide, and produces flowers in mid- to late summer which are light pink on the bottom and darker pink nearer the top. It is happy in sun or shade. It’s green leaves have a bit of a silver tint to them, providing interest even when the plant is not in bloom.

Delicious Candy Echinacea
Zones 4-8

This is a vivid pink flower. It grows 4’ wide and 6’ tall, a really sizable plant. They can handle part-shade, but will not produce as many flowers as they would in the sun. Echinacea is a medicinal plant. Blooms in mid-to-late summer.

Do you have Enough Plants for a Full-Sun Perennial Garden?

I first want to acknowledge that buying plants can be an expensive endeavor. Making a garden is not something that has to be done in one swoop. We can buy plants as we can afford them, and some years from now we’ll have the garden we imagined. And remember, gardening friends will be happy to give you splits of their plants, and some plants are easily grown by seed.

If you were to purchase everything on this list, you would have purple, yellow, raspberry, pink, red, orange, and burgundy flowers. Between them all, they would provide at least one blooming plant from late spring to winter. But remember, you may want to consider choosing fewer varieties and getting more of the ones you do choose.

Whatever you choose, keep in mind that gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about playing in the dirt, connecting to nature, and expressing your creativity. Whatever you think is beautiful, is beautiful.

What is your favorite full-sun perennial to grow?

Decorate with Flowers Year Round Using These Tips [Tutorial]

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When winter has settled on our doorstep and blinding white snow fills the field outside my bedroom window, it is easy to forget the thrill of a vibrant bouquet of fresh flowers on the kitchen table. The muted tones of the season lend themselves to quiet reflection, but also a deep sense of emptiness that can set in with no notice if we leave it unchecked.

It is the time of year where Jeff and I find ourselves drowsy and full, disoriented by the lack of sunlight in the afternoons and finding the effort to keep awake to be challenging. But this year, I promised myself, would be different. This year, I would have flowers in winter.

A plan set in motion last March, when I set seeds into soil blocks underneath the grow light in the cold basement. A plan for eternal, dried flower blooms that would last far longer than the warm summer days in which they would stretch and grow and bloom. This is the story of strawflower and statice, poppies and cornflower, aster and lavender. While their scent may fade, the colors we miss so much in deep winter continue on in a vivid show that defies the passage of time.

Best flowers for drying

An endless variety of flower seeds will leave you feeling overwhelmed as you begin to flip through the catalogs and plan which flowers you’d like to grow for drying. However, with a few simple tricks you can easily set your sights on the best flowers to dry for eternal blooms. My first piece of advice is to ensure you receive the Fedco seed catalog each year - in fact, this is the best place to begin all your garden planning, not just flowers. The reason I suggest Fedco over others is twofold - firstly, you’ll be shopping high quality, non-gmo seed from a private source that isn’t just another subsidiary for Monsanto. Second, it is really a misnomer to call the Fedco book a catalog since the vast amount of educational information contained within really qualifies it as more of a book or guide. A free one at that! This is because the folks at Fedco have gone out of their way to provide useful charts and more to help guide you in your seed selection process. One chart in particular will be useful to us now, and that is the chart denoting the different forms and functions of all the flower seeds available for purchase. You’ll find this chart at the very beginning of the flower section. And no, this isn’t an advertisement for Fedco - just an honest recommendation from a fellow gardener who has utilized this tool for years.

It’ll make more sense once you have the chart in front of you, but there will be a column ticked off just for those flowers which dry well. This is an excellent place to begin making a list of all the possibilities before you do further research.

Don’t want to wait for the catalog to arrive? Here’s what I grew in 2022 for my dried flower garden:

Lavender

A favorite for many reasons, lavender is one of the few dried flowers which will retain its pleasant fragrance after drying. I have lavender bunches from a year ago that still smell incredible if you give them a quick squeeze to release the essential oils within. Known for its calming effects on the nervous system, lavender is an incredibly therapeutic plant to grow. Being a woody shrub however, it is also one of the more difficult ones to grow from seed on this list. You’ll want to do research on how this Mediterranean plant will fare in your own climate, and learn the best pruning techniques to keep it in tip-top shape. Once dried, the delicate purple flowers will make an excellent addition to any arrangement. I like to keep bunches of lavender on my bedroom windowsill.

Strawflower

This eternal bloom is a must for flower crowns and wreaths of all sizes. Strawflower has a long growing season and produce a huge amount of stems. We were picking strawflower all the way up to our first frost. The trick with cutting strawflower to dry is to cut at just the right stage of blooming - too early and the bud won’t open enough as it dries, too late and the blossom will open so far once it has dried that it will be barely recognizable, almost turning inside-out. To time it right, cut when the stem is no longer very wobbly when shaken and only 2-3 bracts of petals are open. This way, as the bloom dries the petals can expand outwards but still leave the very center intact and slightly closed. Strawflower is fun to tuck within an arrangement, but due to the stems tending to dry with bends and curves it is easier to use shorter pieces within a circular craft.

Statice

The variety of color within the purple family you can achieve with statice is remarkable. From our plot, we harvested rich magenta, pale pink, deep amethyst, bright white and even butter yellow blooms. Somehow all of these shades complimented each other perfectly, and made creating an arrangement simple. The long stems go rigid with drying, standing perfectly upright and straight for a large vase arrangement. The tiny individual blossoms are compact and generous, making for a full bouquet. But the best part of statice is in it’s longevity; I had fellow gardeners tell me they have bouquets of dried statice that were ten years old and still preserved their beautiful coloring. 

Poppies

Fresh poppies are notoriously difficult as a cut flower - picked at the wrong moment, they “shatter” in the vase, dropping all their petals dramatically within hours. Truthfully, I was only ever able to get the timing right a couple of times last season - they must be picked in the early morning hours, just after blooming, and immediately placed in water. Their stems also leak an unforgiving bright yellow sap that will permanently stain your favorite gardening clothes without a care (ask me how I know). So I found poppies to be best enjoyed fresh in the garden itself, however, the dried seed pods that begin to pop up as the blooms die off in late summer lend themselves to drying very well. The unique shape and neutral brown coloring of these pods means they will look right at home in most arrangements.

Cornflower

They don’t call it cornflower blue for nothing! These small but delightful blue wildflowers will grow with abandon anywhere you can think to spread them. Like their friend the strawflower, they too require careful timing in cutting to dry in order to preserve their coloring and structure. If you are wondering why your dried cornflower has faded or the petals seem to shed just about everywhere, it’s probably because you picked the bloom too late. Cornflower dries best when it is picked just before the bloom fully opens. These small delicate flowers can be tucked in a crown, a small bud vase or bunched together for a wall sash. They tend to be overpowered in arrangements using multiple other flowers, so let these blooms stand on their own if possible.

New England Aster

The wild child of the group, my tiny pink New England Aster flowers offer an autumn finale in the garden, jumping up out of seemingly nothing and taking over for a few short weeks. Each stem branches out with clusters of inch wide blossoms that dry to a deep magenta pink. Though a bit unruly in a vase, I have a soft spot for their unkempt nature and deep coloring with pinks that last through the whole winter season. Easy to grow and requiring no upkeep, they are certainly a worthwhile addition to any garden for the benefits given to pollinators in search of late season food alone.

Goldenrod

This list wouldn’t be complete without the admirable goldenrod. Often confused for its allergy-causing lookalike, ragweed, goldenrod isn’t the reason for your autumn sniffle session. In fact, goldenrod has many medicinal benefits - but that’s another story for another time. Goldenrod’s showy, small yellow blooms are arranged in rich clusters that droop delightfully.

How to preserve dried flowers

Preserving dried flowers is one of the easiest ways to extend your garden season. The most important step begins with ascertaining the best moment to pick your flower based on the breed. After picking, most flowers (aside from larger blooms like sunflowers and roses) may be dried in a similar fashion - tied with string, hung upside down in a cool dry place. The amount of time needed to dry will vary depending on how hot and dry your climate is in that moment and the amount of water within each stem and bloom - thicker stems such as strawflower taking a few weeks to dry while thinner plants such as cornflower drying in just a few days.

How long do dried flowers last

Dried flowers should last anywhere from 3-6 months, with some varieties such as lavender and statice holding their color for a year or more. It’s important to note too that “last” is relative here - since they are dried, they are unlikely to mold or go “bad”, so if you continue to enjoy the look of your dried flowers past their prime, by all means keep them around!

How to store dried flowers

When not in use, it is best to store dried flowers in brown paper bags or cardboard boxes in a cool, dry place.

What to do with dried flowers

With a little imagination, the options are endless. But here are a few of my favorite ways to use dried flowers:

• Door wreaths

• Candle wreaths

• Crowns

• Attached to a barrette

• Displayed in a vase, crock, pitcher or other container

• Bunches on a windowsill

• Bunches hung on a wall

• Bunches tied to your shower head

• Suspended within a glass bottle sealed with a cork

• Flatted between two pieces of glass in a frame

• Cooking - check to be sure they are edible

• Drawer sachets - best for more fragrant blooms

• Potpourri

• Blended into hand poured candles

• Blended into handmade paper

• Blended into teas and herbal steams

Where to buy dried flowers

If you aren’t ready to grow your own flowers for drying, I recommend searching on Etsy for flower growers near you who offer the types of blooms you are looking for.

What varieties will you be growing this year? Comment and let me know!