Forcing Forsythia Indoors For Early Spring Blooms

Spring is a time of new beginnings, and this is reflected in the blooms of many plants. I spend more distracted minutes than I care to admit staring out of windows each day hoping for a streak of color in the garden beds to bring life back into the cold and gray landscape of early spring. In my gardens, the first to appear are the purple crocuses, small and delicate. Following behind soon after will be the daffodils - cheerful yellow and white blooms to ring in the season and excellent flowers for your vase. Before long it is a cacophony of blossoms, from tulips with their vibrant colors and delicate blooms to lilac and hyacinths, fragrant flowers that come in a range of colors, from pastels to bright hues, and are a favorite of gardeners and florists alike.

I’ll be the first to admit that winter isn’t the easiest season for me. Living in New England, you’re forced to acclimate to the colder temperatures, but even after a lifetime spent in this northern climate I still struggle with just how long, cold and gray winter can be. My chronic pain is also made worse by colder weather affecting my joints. The only consolation is that spring is all the sweeter for it. You can’t miss what you can’t measure, and winter ensures that I never take the sweetness of spring for granted.

While I love each and every flower that appears, my favorite blooms this time of year are not the ones that poke their way up out of the thawing earth. I find inspiration in the dogwoods, cherry blossoms, magnolia and forsythia (a burst of sunshine) too. These flowering trees and shrubs are a beautiful addition to any spring landscape. But if you’re impatient like me, and the winter was long, you may find yourself wishing there was a way to speed things up a bit and enjoy a bit of spring in your own home. My favorite way to do just that? Take a trip outdoors (bundle up if you must!) and snip off a few of those wayward branches you were meaning to prune anyhow to force those spring bud branches to bloom indoors. This simple little trick is especially gratifying if you live with chronic pain like I do, and just need a quick way to feel connected with nature without putting additional stress on your body. Chronic illness can so easily take away parts of our identity (like being a gardener) if we let it. So I always like to prioritize small activities like this that reinforce my sense of self.

How can you force spring bud branches to bloom inside?

Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside is a fun and easy process. All you need is a pair of sharp clippers and a container to fill with water and place your cuttings in. Once you’ve gathered your supplies, head outside and look for a branch (or ten) that needs pruning. You can accomplish two tasks in one this way - prune off unwanted branches at the perfect time of year to do so, as well as bring some beautiful flowers indoors!

• Cut branches: Cut branches from deciduous trees or shrubs that have swollen buds, but have not yet started to leaf out. Ideal trees to use are cherry, plum, apple, or forsythia. Cut branches early in the morning while they are still dormant, using sharp pruning shears to make a clean, angled cut. To improve your chances of success, make some small cuts up the ends of the branches as well.

• Hydrate: Place the cut branches in a container of warm water to allow them to hydrate and start absorbing water. You can add some flower food to the water to help extend the life of the blooms, but you don’t have to.

• Condition the branches: Place the container in a cool, dark room for a day or two to help the branches adjust to indoor conditions.

• Warmth and light: Move the container to a warm, bright room with indirect sunlight. This will help to promote the growth and blooming of the flowers.

• Change water regularly: Check the water level in the container daily and change it regularly to prevent the growth of bacteria that could harm the blooms.

• Wait: It may take several days to several weeks for the branches to start blooming, depending on the type of tree and the conditions in your home. Be patient, and enjoy the process of watching the flowers slowly start to appear.

Once the flowers have opened, you can arrange the branches in a vase and enjoy their beauty in your home. If you’re lucky, your branches may even develop roots in the water - you can try planting these outdoors when they are done blooming! Now you’ve pruned your plants, added beauty to your home AND propagated new ones for free. You can probably see why I love this little project so much!

How does forcing blooms work?

Forcing spring bud branches to bloom inside works by manipulating the environmental conditions that the branches experience, in order to encourage them to bloom earlier than they would naturally. By changing the temperature, light, and water conditions that the branches experience, you are effectively tricking the branches into thinking that spring has arrived earlier than it naturally would. This encourages the branches to bloom, allowing you to enjoy the beauty of spring in your home, even if the weather outside is still cold and dreary.

What plants can you force bloom indoors?

Many deciduous trees and shrubs can be used to force buds to bloom inside, but some work better than others. Here are a few species that are often used for this purpose:

• Forsythia: This is a popular choice for forcing due to its bright yellow flowers that bloom early in the spring and its hardy nature.

• Cherry: Cherry branches have delicate pink or white flowers that are very fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.

• Plum: Plum branches produce fragrant, delicate flowers in shades of pink or white.

• Apple: Apple branches have delicate pink or white flowers that are lightly fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.

• Magnolia: Magnolia branches have large, fragrant flowers in shades of pink, purple, or white, and make a dramatic statement when displayed indoors.

• Dogwood: Dogwood branches have delicate flowers in shades of pink or white, and are also prized for their attractive bark.

• Quince: Quince branches have fragrant, bright pink flowers that bloom early in the spring, making them a popular choice for forcing.

• Crabapple: Crabapple branches have delicate pink, red, or white flowers that are lightly fragrant and make a beautiful addition to any room in your home.

These are just a few examples of the many species that can be used. Play and experiment with different plants to see what works best for you.

What are the benefits of bringing fresh spring flowers inside?

There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that fresh flowers inside can have a positive impact on mental health. Here are a few of the key benefits:

• Boosts mood: Research has shown that flowers can have an immediate impact on mood, making people feel happier and more relaxed, as well as more balanced and centered.

• Improves memory: Studies have found that having fresh flowers in the home can improve memory, particularly in older adults.

• Increases creativity: Flowers have been found to stimulate the mind and increase creativity, making them a great addition to workspaces or creative spaces.

• Provides a connection to nature: Flowers are a reminder of the beauty and abundance of nature, providing a connection to the natural world and promoting feelings of peace and calm.

Bring fresh flowers inside have been shown to have a positive impact on mental health, helping people to feel happier, more relaxed, and more connected to the world around them.

Whether you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home, workspace, or creative space, the mental health benefits are undeniable.

Another benefit of this practice is that it intentionally forces you to spend time outdoors, at a time of year when the rainy spring weather may tempt you to stay cozied up inside. But anyone who has ever gone outdoors after a fresh spring rain shower will tell you there is a certain smell in the air during this time of year that cannot be replicated in summer, fall or winter. Scientists have actually named this phenomenon- “Petrichor” is the term for the unique, earthy smell associated with rain. It is caused by the water from the rain combining with certain compounds like ozone, geosmin, and plant oils in soil.

Even more impressive is the fact that soil contains a natural antidepressant; a microbe in the soil called Mycobacterium vaccae that is confirmed to stimulate serotonin production, leaving you feeling relaxed and happier. When you garden and work the soil, you actually inhale these beneficial bacteria in addition to having topical contact with it, making multiple points of entry for this natural stress reliever to enter your bloodstream. I see this as further proof of what I know intuitively as a gardener; spending time in nature in spring is a uniquely healing experience.

Garden Planning Part 3: How To Start Seeds Indoors

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

This is part three of my garden planning guide. For part one all about deciding what to plant, click here. For part two, all about planning your garden layout, click here. For part four, how to companion plant, click here.

Today we’ll cover when to start seeds indoors, how to germinate seeds, my favorite seed starting supplies and more.

I love growing my vegetable garden from seeds. What could be more gratifying than watching your plants grow from one tiny seed into a full grown plant ready to harvest? It is so fulfilling to nurture and care for these tiny bits of life and bring them to maturity.

I also love to feel the tie back to my ancestors through this process of growing. I know that not too many generations ago, my relatives would have tended their own little garden to support their family and put food on the table. I have combed through old family photos endlessly searching for evidence of this connection, but so much was lost through time. Considering industrial agriculture is a fairly modern concept though, it’s safe to say that the vast majority of our relatives have grown food at some point in their past. I feel this connection and find my way back to these ancestral roots through the soil.

How to start seeds Indoors

Let’s start with the basics: For many plants, you don’t need even technically need grow lights to start seeds for your garden. You can use winter sowing in milk jugs outdoors, or try starting seeds in egg cartons and even toilet paper rolls. I’ve tried all of these with mixed results. My method of choice used to be soil blocking. Soil blocking is just compressing soil into cubes using a mold and planting directly into that cube without any additional containers. Then you can bottom water those seedlings and build nice strong root structures with zero waste. This method words great for producing strong plants, but it comes with a learning curve that can make it frustrating as you need exactly the right type of soil, and I find it really hurts my hands and is too strenuous.

I’ve been starting seeds using seed cells and trays, but often these are not built to last, and in order to keep plastic out of our landfills and reduce the frustration that comes with cracking cells and flimsy trays, I’ve upgraded my seed starting setup with these extra durable seed starting trays.

Each individual cell in these trays features an air pruning side slot on all four corners to discourage root circling and encourage better root growth.  The bottoms of each cell are also open providing air pruning at the lower end of each cell. Large, convenient finger holes in the bottom of each cell make it easy to remove seedlings when you're ready to transplant.

Tap Here To Shop Epic Gardening - Use Code TheCottagePeach5

If you’re growing heat loving crops like peppers and eggplant, you should also grab a heat mat for each tray.

So now that you have your tools, how do you know when to start planting seeds? Start too early, and your plants will outgrow their indoor containers before it is warm enough to move them outdoors. Start your seeds too late, and your plants won’t be mature by your last frost date. That last frost date is exactly where we will start our seed starting journey. This one is easy, I promise; you already know your grow zone from our previous post, so just Google “Last frost date + (your grow zone)” to find out when it’s safe to plant outdoors in your area, since this is the last date when all danger of a freeze has passed.

Next, go back to your list of everything you will be growing and open up Google. Search for each plant name + “when to plant”. For direct sown plants (that means we just put the seed directly into the soil outdoors) this will most often just be “after last frost” (unless it’s a cold hardy plant like spinach or kale which can usually be started a lot earlier) but for plants that need to be started indoors in order to mature before that last frost date, it will say something like “start indoors 8 weeks before last frost” Next to each line write down the planting timing. 

The benefit of using a spreadsheet when you are learning how to start seeds is that you can then sort the data in your list by the planting date instead of whatever order you had originally written them down in. This creates a planting schedule for starting plants from seed with just a click of a button. Otherwise you’re going to have to manually organize your list by planting date so you know what dates to do which tasks.

Should you use potting soil or seed starting soil?

Potting soil and seed starting soil are both designed to provide a suitable growing medium for plants, but they have some key differences based on the needs of plants at different stages of growth. Potting soil is a general-purpose mix that is formulated to support the growth of established plants, both indoors and outdoors. It often contains a blend of ingredients such as peat moss, perlite, vermiculite, pine bark, and sometimes added fertilizers. Potting soil may have added nutrients to support the nutritional needs of mature plants. Some formulations include slow-release fertilizers that provide nutrients over an extended period. Potting soil tends to have a coarser texture compared to seed starting soil. This coarser texture helps with drainage, aeration, and provides stability for larger plants.

Seed starting soil is specifically designed for germinating seeds. It typically consists of a lightweight and fine-textured blend, often containing ingredients like peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. Seed starting soil is often sterile, which helps prevent damping off and other soil-borne diseases that can affect germinating seeds and young seedlings. Seed starting soil is formulated to retain moisture well, providing the consistent moisture levels necessary for seed germination. This helps seeds absorb water and initiate the germination process. Seed starting soil usually has minimal nutrients because seeds initially rely on the nutrients stored within them. As the seedlings grow and develop true leaves, additional nutrients may need to be provided through fertilization. Seed starting soil has a finer texture compared to potting soil. This fine texture allows seeds to make good contact with the soil, facilitating germination.

Use seed starting soil when germinating seeds in trays or small containers. The fine texture and sterile nature help create an ideal environment for germination. Once seedlings have developed a few sets of true leaves, you can transplant them into larger containers with potting soil, which provides the nutrients and structure needed for more mature plants.

What grow light should you use for starting seeds?

Don’t overcomplicate this. Grab some LED strip grow lights like these, and a couple of timers to turn them on automatically. Unless you are going to grow your plants indoors for their entire lifecycle and need them to flower/fruit without sunlight, you do not need to worry about the specific spectrum of light you’re using nearly as much.

How many hours of light do seedlings need?

You should set your grow light timer to give your seedlings 12-18 hours of light per day. I usually set mine for 16 hours.

What is germination?

Germination the development of a plant from a seed or spore after a period of dormancy. Most of the time, your seeds will germinate (or sprout) themselves simply by being activated through the process of hydration. So, you’ll put your seed into the soil at the recommended depth, cover with soil and keep damp, and this increase in the moisture content will trigger the germination of the seed. However, it’s important to check the germination requirements for any seed you haven’t grown before. Some, such as peppers, require a higher temperature in order to germinate successfully. Others like spinach and lettuce prefer a cooler temperature to germinate. Some seeds will just be duds and never germinate - that’s why you’ll often plant multiple seeds in one cell and thin them later, to hedge your bets. You can improve the rate of germination of certain plants like peas, beans, pumpkins and other winter squash by soaking them prior to planting. But, to be honest, since I have fatigue from my arthritis I don’t usually do this step and it’s usually just fine as long as you have quality seeds.

How do you prevent damping off?

Damping off is a common problem when starting seeds, and it is caused by various types of fungi that attack young seedlings, causing them to rot at the soil line. To prevent damping off, you can take several precautions. Start with a high-quality, sterile seed starting mix. Sterilized soil helps eliminate the presence of damping off-causing fungi. Ensure that the containers or seed trays you use are clean and have been properly washed or sterilized before planting. This reduces the chances of introducing harmful fungi. Overwatering can create a favorable environment for damping off fungi. Water the seedlings from the bottom to keep the surface of the soil dry. Use a tray underneath the pots and allow the soil to wick up water as needed. Adequate air circulation helps prevent the buildup of humidity around the seedlings. Use a fan on low speed or open windows to provide ventilation, especially if you are growing seedlings indoors. You should also aim to maintain a moderate humidity level. High humidity can contribute to the growth of damping off fungi. Proper ventilation and spacing between seedlings can help manage humidity levels.

By implementing these practices, you can reduce the risk of damping off and give your seedlings a healthy start. If you notice any signs of damping off, remove affected seedlings immediately to prevent the spread of the fungus.

Thinning seedlings

Thinning seedlings is an important step in the early stages of plant growth to ensure that the remaining seedlings have enough space, nutrients, and sunlight to develop into strong, healthy plants. Allow the seedlings to grow to a height where they have at least two sets of “true leaves”. True leaves are the leaves that follow the initial seed leaves (cotyledons) and have the characteristics of the plant species. Identify the strongest and healthiest seedlings. Look for seedlings with vigorous growth, a good color, and well-developed leaves. This does not necessarily mean the tallest - a short, stocky seedling is a better choice than a thin, leggy one. Instead of pulling out the excess seedlings, which can disturb the roots of neighboring plants, use clean scissors or small pruners to cut the unwanted seedlings at soil level. This ensures minimal disruption to the roots of the remaining seedlings. If you are thinning edible plants like lettuce or carrots, you can eat the thinned seedlings. Thinning can be a way to enjoy some early greens from your garden. Otherwise, just toss them in your compost.

Starting a GArden Checklist

1. Pick and order your seeds (don’t forget to check out this blog post if you get stuck)

2. Plan your garden layout (see this post for my tips)

3. Write down the planting dates for every plant on your list - both the seed starting date and the date to transplant

4. Gather your supplies; soil, seeds, cell containers to grow in or a soil blocker and trays, a trowel, a tarp to keep your work area clean, and your light source

5. Work down your list of seeds from the first planting date to the last

6. Presoak any seeds that require it for germination

7. Plant your seeds at the recommended depth

8. Keep the soil moist at all times - you can cover with any clear material to keep the environment damp until the seeds sprout

9. Build strength in your seedlings stems by gently running your hands across the surface of your plants daily, and keep a fan on to prevent damping off/mold

10. Harden off your seedlings by bringing them outdoors to a protected spot out of direct sunlight and wind (up against your house will do). Start with one hour for the first few days, then increase it by an hour every day until they are able to stay outdoors for all daylight hours

11. Transplant your mature seedlings into the garden when it is safe to do so, usually after your average last frost date

What else do you want to know about starting seeds indoors?

Garden Planning Part 2: Designing Your Garden Layout

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Planning your first garden can feel intimidating, but I want to show you a simple process that I use in my own garden design that breaks each step down into manageable pieces. This is a project I typically work on over the course of a few weekends here and there - it won’t necessarily take hours to complete, but it’s nice not to rush the process so you can modify and tweak things after giving yourself time to mull it over.

How to decide what to plant in your garden

I cover this in depth in my seed selection post which you can read by clicking here, but the key is to identify what foods your family eats the most of, that will grow well in your particular garden climate. This list is your starting point - all we have to do is assign each plant on the list to a particular spot in your garden layout based on a couple important factors, including what plants grow well together, what plants are natural “enemies”, the location of the sun on the land, and how many of each type of plant you will be growing. But I’ll cover all of that in a minute. First let's decide where your new garden should go.

How to decide where to put a garden

The best time to choose the location of your new garden bed is after about a year of careful observation, because this gives you a full year of seasons to notice and document the weather patterns (if an area tends to flood or dry out quickly for example) as well as the positioning of the sun throughout the spring, summer and fall. But if you’re reading this with the intention of beginning your new garden in a few days, weeks or months don’t fret! Some educated guesses can be made based on just a few days of observations. 

First, note the direction of the sun. In a perfect world a north-south orientation is best for low-growing crops, allowing direct sunlight to reach both sides of the bed. For taller crops such as pole beans, cucumbers and tomatoes an east-west orientation works best. The sun rises in the east and sets in the west, so just pay attention to your sunrise and sunset locations and you’ll be able to orient yourself based on that.

Next, throughout the day you’ll want to pay attention to shade and shadows. For instance, is there a tall treeline that means a certain area of the land does not get full sun throughout the day? If you have a choice to plant in full sun, you absolutely should - however, this doesn’t mean that your shady yard is inhospitable to planting. You’ll just need to modify your list of crops you plan to grow to include only those who thrive in lower light conditions.

Finally, notice the slope of the land. Unless your yard is perfectly flat, you probably have areas that will be easier to transform into a garden than others. We’ll talk about what to do if all the land available to you is on a slope next.

QUESTIONS TO ASK YOURSELF WHEN GARDEN PLANNING:

What is the purpose of the garden? Is it for aesthetics, food production, or a combination of both?

What is the climate and soil type of the area? What plants are suitable for this type of environment?

What is the size and shape of the garden space? How much sunlight does it receive? What is the orientation?

What type of plants do you want to grow? Do you prefer perennials or annuals? Do you want to grow edibles or ornamentals?

What is your budget for the garden? How much money do you have to spend on plants, materials, and tools?

How much time and effort are you willing to devote to the garden? Do you want a low-maintenance garden or are you willing to put in the work to maintain it?

What is the style of the garden? Do you want a formal or informal garden? Do you prefer a wild and natural look or a more structured appearance?

What is your level of gardening expertise? Are you a beginner or an experienced gardener?

Raised beds vs in-ground

Now that you’ve picked the location for your garden, it’s time to decide if you want to grow food in the ground or in raised beds. Each method has its pros and cons. I chose to switch to primarily all raised beds this year because fighting weeds in-ground and bending over the soil was not working for my back any more with my arthritis. The downside is that this means I have to pay for the beds themselves as well as the soil/compost to fill them. If you’re on a budget and don’t have the same physical limitations as I do, gardening in ground allows you to benefit from the pre-existing ecosystem within your soil including worms and beneficial bacteria and also means your plants won’t need to be watered as often.

If you’re gardening on a slope, I strongly recommend raised beds. With raised beds that sit on the earth you will be able to actually dig the base of the bed into the soil to make it even, effectively creating a level surface on which to plant. Just be mindful not to locate any plants that are sensitive to root rot at the lowest point of your slope since rainwater will collect most easily there.

How many vegetable plants do you need per person?

This is highly individual depending on your family and what you like to eat. You should definitely prioritize space in your garden for the foods you eat the most. For us, that means we grow a lot more broccoli, green beans and bell peppers than anything else. And no matter how much squash you THINK you will eat, one or two plants per household will probably yield more than you’ll ever be able to finish without sharing with your neighbors and friends. If you know you go through a lot of pesto, it’s a good idea to plant 20-30 basil plants. Refer to the chart below for some common amounts for popular vegetables.

What is companion planting?

Just as there are plants that do not grow well near each other because they compete for resources, there are many plants that get along quite well and actually offer benefits to their neighbors. You can harness this “companion planting” effect to grow more food in an even smaller space. You can also utilize taller, stronger plants to act as trellises for vining plants, prevent weeds by creating a thick overstory that will choke them out, planting certain herbs and flowers as a trap crop to repel pests, and benefit your neighboring plants with the addition of nitrogen fixing varieties such as snap peas or pull nutrients to higher levels for your shallow rooted plants with crops such as root vegetables.

Plants that grow well together:

There are countless companion plant combinations, but here are a few to get you started:

• For “trap crops” to keep pests away from your plants or repel them entirely, look into basil, dill, marigold, mint, nasturtium, sage and zinnias.

• Grow basil within 12 inches of tomatoes to increase your harvest. Basil also improves the flavor of lettuce.

• Growing chives near your carrots will improve their flavor. 

• Beans like to grow with Beets, carrots, chard, cabbage, corn, cucumbers, peas, and radishes.

• Strawberries like to grow with bush beans, chives, lettuce, onions, sage, spinach, and squash.

Plants you shouldn’t plant near each other:

Some plants compete with each other for resources or in the case of sunflowers for example, actively leech compounds into the soil that can cause harm to neighboring plants. Here are just a few common enemies in the garden.

Squash and potatoes

Tomatoes and corn

Zucchini and pumpkin

Asparagus and garlic

What is crop rotation?

Crop rotation means that you intentionally do not plant the same type of plant in the same exact spot each year, you “rotate” it to a new location. For example, nightshades such as tomatoes are prone to microbial diseases that live in the soil. For this reason it is recommended that you do not plant in the same spot for 4 years after the initial planting. Other nitrogen dependent crops such as corn suck so much fertilizer out of the soil that you want to give the earth a break before replanting the same variety in the same spot. This will be more important in your second and following years of gardening, so don’t worry about it too much right now!

how to design your garden layout

Now that you have your final list of plants, your garden location and type and an overall understanding of the basic concepts of companion planting and how many plants you will need, the hard work is done! All we are going to do now is effectively “fill in the blanks”.

All you will need is some paper and a pencil, but if you want to get really crafty with it, print out some graph paper and grab your highlighters too.

Start by drawing out the outline of the shape and size of the garden beds you will be creating. I like to do this to scale with graph paper where each square equals a square foot of the garden. You don’t need to get this precise with it - if you have a 4x4 area or raised garden bed, just draw a nice sized square on your blank paper and add your own grid lines or rows as you see fit.

Now go back to your plant list of everything you plan to grow this season. Assign each plant on the list a letter from A to Z. You should also write down the number of plants for each item on the list next to the plant name.

All you need to do now is just fill in your blank garden squares with the corresponding letter for each plant to assign it a location and the number of plants you will be planting in that square.

That’s really all there is to it! Once this is complete I like to go back and reorganize the plant list based on when I need to start the seeds and transplant into the ground after our last frost, but that’s a conversation for another day.

Need seeds? Tap here to visit my favorite seed company

Click here for part one: Choosing & Organizing Seeds

Click here for part two: Starting Seeds Indoors

Click here for part four: How to Use Companion Planting To Grow More Food

Garden Planning Part 1: How to Decide What to Grow & Organize Your Seeds

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

We’ve been tucked away and hibernating for what feels like forever now, but all signs point to an end to winter and a new beginning in the form of spring. Spring historically symbolizes rebirth, renewal, a reset button on the weather and by extension our moods and habits. And while tending your vegetable garden may still feel a long way off depending on where you live, now is the best time to start planning a garden bed.

The seed catalogs have been arriving in droves, and I’ve found myself more than once justifying adding another to my collection. For the months of January through April, I treat seed catalogs with the same care as a beloved book, kept in a tidy stack and savoring each page daily as I plan and dream what we will grow this year. Why are seed catalogs so important to me? The truth you may not know if you haven’t had one delivered to your home before is that these catalogs are so much more than places to see and buy seeds - they can serve as a garden planning guide too. 

How to use a seed catalog

A seed catalog can seem overwhelming at first. They are packed full of information and item listings, plant descriptions and charts. It’s a good idea to go into your seed catalog reading with an open mind - skim through and see what you are drawn to, while keeping in mind the foods you already know you enjoy eating. Pull out a pen and circle your favorites or write notes in the margins/on a blank piece of paper. This piece takes me less time each year as I have grown as a gardener, but the earlier in your vegetable garden adventure you are, the longer it will take. Give yourself at least a week of casual exploration before moving onto the next stage. 

Where to buy garden seeds

It can be trickier than you’d think to identify reputable seed companies. Due to the monopoly created by Monsanto, there are many companies that carry Monsanto owned seeds that may surprise you. This is because Monsanto owns such a large proportion of the world’s food supply seeds (and then “retires” them so no one can access them any more - yes, it’s as bad as it sounds).

In recent years they’ve bought one of the largest garden seed wholesalers in the world, Seminis, which is stocked by companies including Johnny’s and Territorial. 

These companies offer a wide variety of high quality seed and their partnership with this Monsanto subsidiary is small and accounts for a tiny fraction of their inventory. But in order to avoid supporting Monsanto when purchasing through these smaller suppliers you’ll want to email them directly to confirm which seeds may originate from a Monsanto subsidiary so you can avoid them.

Tap here to shop My favorite seed company, which has consistently offered the best variety of organic and conventional seed with beautiful packaging, high germination rates, and healthy plants.

How to get free seeds:

Want free seeds? I occasionally give away excess seed from my own garden to newsletter subscribers. Click here to sign up to be the first to know when seeds are available.

Per AltNPS: “Pollinators such as bees and butterflies, play a crucial role in maintaining and improving our ecosystems. They help to grow the plants that we eat every single day, are vital parts of the natural food-chain, and serve as ecosystem barometers due to their sensitivity to climate change.

In the past 5 years, bees and butterflies have declined remarkably. Saving these creatures is imperative to humankind since approximately 75% of the fruits, vegetables, and nuts we eat are courtesy of pollinators. Bees and butterflies also beautify our planet; their important role in plant reproduction perpetuates floral growth and provides aesthetically pleasing landscapes for human enjoyment and faunal habitat.”

There are free seed programs online specially designed to help gardener’s plant more pollinator-friendly gardens. Go to https://altnps.org/seed-packs and fill out the form to have free Milkweed or Black-Eyed Susan seeds sent to your door!

How to choose what to grow: Planning a vegetable garden

At this point, you should have a few plants in mind that you notice you are most excited about growing yourself. Make a list with those plants at the top, then add on to the list by including whatever fruits and vegetables your family eats most. Last, add any plants you’d really like to just experiment with and see what happens.

Next, head to Google and find your growing zone by searching “Grow zone + your zip code”. Write down your zone - this determines your average climate, temperature, and weather pattern. For example, we are in zone 6B in Massachusetts, which means we have short, moderately hot summers and long, deeply cold winters. Not a great climate to try and grow slow to ripen tropical fruits or even peppers in, since both of those categories of plants demand intense heat and long seasons. As much as I might *want* to grow papaya, I know it’s just not going to happen in my grow zone. However, if you live in Florida your papaya plant would thrive.

Using the charts within the catalog or Google again to cross check your list and eliminate any that can’t thrive in your growing zone. If you’re noticing any gaps or your list doesn’t seem long enough, consider adding some beneficial flowering plants to support pollinators in your garden. There are many good reasons to support pollinators in your garden - they are responsible for helping your fruiting plants to grow and thrive.

When should you order seeds for your vegetable garden?

Seeds have an exceptionally long shelf life - most varieties will survive in dormancy for 1-5 years. So it is never too early to start ordering seeds for your vegetable garden. Some gardeners on a budget even take advantage of end of season and holiday sales to stock up on their seeds for next season as early as November of the year before. Of course, the best seeds are free, saved from your best plants grown the year before. There is nothing more rewarding than following the family tree of your garden vegetables and continuing their legacy through seed selection and saving.

Organizing seeds

When you’re thinking about how to plan a vegetable garden, organization should be at the top of your list. Especially once you start saving seeds, a proper labeling and organization system will be the only way you can possibly keep track of everything. Don’t convince yourself that you will just “remember what everything was” next year. Unless it’s a very distinct seed like a nasturtium, it’s unlikely you’ll be able to keep all those tiny parcels straight without a system.

There are as many ways to label and contain seeds as there are gardeners in the world, but here are a few of my favorites, after years of experimenting:

Storing seeds

If you’re planning to create a seed bank where you store your seeds indefinitely for 10+ years, the best thing you can do is store seeds in airtight glass containers in a cool, dry, dark place. However, most seeds in regular rotation will store just fine for up to three years in their paper packets as long as the area of your home where you store them isn’t exceptionally hot or humid. Many gardeners collect TicTac containers to hold their vegetable seeds as they are small and easy to store and label. In the past, I used a plastic photo organizer in combination with paper seed envelopes. While this method allows me to categorize by type (greens in one plastic container, beans in another) and variety (separate envelopes within the ‘greens’ plastic container for lettuce, spinach, kale and chard) while keeping the seeds well protected from external forces that could shorten their lifespan, after a few years I found it frustrating - seeds would fall out all the time, I hated having the dig through each container to find the one I wanted, and packets inevitably ended up just sitting on top of the box waiting to be put away. It was also bulky and heavy to carry out to the garden with me on big planting days and I dropped it more than once.

My favorite method for organizing seeds is the binder method. All you need is a 3 ring binder and these photo sleeve inserts. It’s kind of like how you might have stored your Pokemon or baseball cards as a kid - you can see everything at once, and it’s easy to put away any seed packet you just used. However, this method only works for standard size seed packets - corn and beans won’t fit. And, if you save seeds from your own garden, you’d need to also make your own paper seed packets to contain them first.

In addition to this binder method for my store bought seeds, I also have a mini “seed bank” going. This is a wooden box that custom fits tiny glass bottles in which I store seeds saved from my own garden. There are limitations with this as well when it comes to larger seeds, but overall it’s beautiful and functional for small quantities.

Labeling seeds

This can be as simple or complex as you would like. A sharpie pen on the outside or lid of your chosen container will work just fine. Or get an old school label maker and punch out your labels with that. There are even custom printable labels available on etsy if aesthetics are important to you. The only thing that matters is choosing a system you will actually follow through on and use - because labeling your seeds is vital to an organized system.

What to grow in Your Vegetable garden:

Are you still wondering what to grow in your garden this year? Here’s my list of nearly everything I’m starting from seed for my garden this year. You can tap individual seed packets to shop: 

• Alaska Variegated Nasturtium Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Astro Arugula/Rocket Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Baby Choi Bok Choy Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Big Seeded Mache (Corn Salad) Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Bloomsdale Spinach Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Bok Choy Choko Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Buttercrunch Butterhead Lettuce Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• California Giants Blend Zinnia Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Carnival Blend Carrot Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Casperita Pumpkin Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Common Sorrel Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Danvers 126 Carrot Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Easter Egg Blend Radish Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• French Breakfast Radish Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Gai Choy Mustard Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Green Globe Improved Artichoke Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Hearts of Gold Cantaloupe/Muskmelon Melon Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Honey Boat Winter Delicata Squash Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• King Richard Leek Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Lacinato Dinosaur Kale Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Lakota Winter Squash Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Love-Lies-Bleeding Amaranth Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Marketmore Cucumber Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Mizuna Mustard Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Mountain Sweet Yellow Watermelon Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Olesh Tres Fine Endive Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Purple Emperor Trailing Nasturtium Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

• Red Russian Kale Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Rosette Tatsoi Bok Choy Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Round Black Spanish Radish Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Ruby Red/Rhubarb Swiss Chard Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Sea Shells Blend Cosmos Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Sugar Baby Watermelon Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Sugar Magnolia Snap Pea Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Sugar Pie Pumpkin Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Sugar Snap Snap Pea Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.99

• Teddy Bear Dwarf Sunflower Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.49

• Tendergreen Mustard Spinach Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.29

• Tokyo Long White Bunching/Scallion Onion Seeds
• 
• Price: $2.69

• Touchstone Gold Beet Seeds
• 
• Price: $4.29

• Waltham Butternut Winter Squash Seeds
• 
• Price: $3.49

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When you’re wondering how to start a garden, come back to this list for inspiration. What Are you growing this year?

Click here for part two: Designing Your Garden Layout

Click here for part three: How To Start Seeds Indoors

Click here for part four: How To Use Companion Planting To Grow More Food

Unlocking the Culinary Potential of Your Garden With Edible Flowers

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Edible cut flower gardens can bring so much joy to your kitchen. I love topping a fresh salad with spice nasturtiums, or pressing pansies into shortbread cookies. I’m a firm believer that adults need opportunities to play too - and growing flowers that we can eat is the perfect way to incorporate that playful energy into our days. Outside of garnishes and baking, they can make an excellent cup of tea, or folded into fresh churned butter you can add color to your breakfast toasts and more. The options are endless when it comes to what you can do with edible flowers. Playing with texture, scent and color can turn an otherwise basic recipe into something really special to share with friends and family this summer and beyond. My favorite cakes have been topped with sage leaves and calendula blossoms, and you can make a mocktail truly unique with just a few sprigs of lavender.

Health Benefits of Flowers

There is a growing body of evidence to suggest that fresh flowers inside can have a positive impact on mental health. Here are a few of the key benefits:

Boosts mood: Research has shown that flowers can have an immediate impact on mood, making people feel happier and more relaxed.

Reduces stress: Flowers have been shown to have a calming effect, reducing feelings of anxiety and stress.

Improves memory: Studies have found that having fresh flowers in the home can improve memory, particularly in older adults.

Increases creativity: Flowers have been found to stimulate the mind and increase creativity, making them a great addition to workspaces or creative spaces.

Promotes well-being: Fresh flowers have been shown to promote a sense of well-being, helping people to feel more balanced and centered.

Provides a connection to nature: Flowers are a reminder of the beauty and abundance of nature, providing a connection to the natural world and promoting feelings of peace and calm.

When starting a cut flower garden with edible flowers, you may not know in advance if you’ll actually enjoy the flavor of the flowers you are growing - most of us have never eaten flowers before! Often, they taste a lot like they smell. But in the case of nasturtiums for example, they can have an unexpected heat. Go into your garden planning with a mindset of experimentation and you are sure to be amazed, even if your flowers end up being more for the birds and bees than your plate. There’s no such thing as a flower failure. And don’t forget that many of your favorite vegetables and fruits like snap peas and strawberries start off as flowers that can be eaten and adorned too. If you’re new to gardening, these experiments will give you the experience you need to grow confident in all your future gardening endeavors. If you’re already a gardening expert, edible flowers offer the opportunity to bring something new and unexpected into your regular gardening routine, a colorful surprise to enjoy all summer long.

Overall, fresh flowers inside have been shown to have a positive impact on mental health, helping people to feel happier, more relaxed, and more connected to the world around them. Whether you enjoy having fresh flowers in your home, workspace, or creative space, the mental health benefits are undeniable.

Below are some of my favorite flowers for a cut garden bed. They all have a good vase life and are easily started by seed. There are many, many other edible flowers not included on this list, so I encourage you to do some research of your own.

Calendula

Calendula prefers partial shade, and grows 10-12” tall. For the longest vase life, pick the flowers when they’ve just opened, and pick often to encourage more blooms.

The leaves and flowers of Calendula are edible. The leaves are bitter, and best used in salad. The flowers are rich in antioxidants and are used in salads, or as a garnish. 

Both the leaves and flowers can be used to make tea. Pick fully open blooms, and if you’d like, leaves. You can use them fresh, or save some for later. For storage, let them dry indoors until they are crunchy and save them in an airtight container.

Calendula has been used externally to treat rashes, burns, and wounds for hundreds of years. Its dried flowers are said to boost the immune system.

Zinnia

Zinnia prefers full sun, and its height depends upon which variety you are growing. To determine when they should be picked, use the wiggle test: hold the stem about 8” down from the flower and shake it gently. If the stem bends, it is not ready. If it stays perpendicular, it’s ready for harvesting. Harvest often for more blooms.

Zinnia is used in salads and as a garnish. Fresh or dried flowers can be used to make tea. They can also be used to make a simple syrup for use in cocktails (or mocktails).

Zinnia have been used medicinally for their antifungal, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antimalarial qualities.

Flower Sunspot Sunflower

Unsurprisingly, Sunspot Sunflowers grow in full sun. They are a dwarf variety, growing only 2-3 feet tall.. For the longest vase life, they should be picked when they are just starting to fully open.

Sunflower seeds are packed with nutrition and are a source of protein. The seeds are ready for harvesting when the back of the sunflower has begun to brown. At that point, they will be dry enough to remove from the flower. Alternatively, they can be kept on the flower in a dry space.

Sunflower petals can be used in soups or salads, or as a garnish. Dried petals can be used to make tea.

Sunflower seeds support the immune system, and are linked to lower cholesterol and blood pressure. They have antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties. 

Dried Sunflower petals are used in salves, facial scrubs, and soap, among other things. 

Snapdragons

Snapdragons grow in full sun. Their height varies depending on variety. They should be picked while still closed for the longest vase life. They should be picked often to encourage blooms.

Snapdragon leaves and flowers are edible and anti-inflammatory, but some varieties can be bitter. It is used to make tea, in salads, or as a garnish.

The leaves and flowers of Snapdragons have been used for a wide variety of symptoms and diseases, from watery eyes to liver disorder. 

Lisianthus

Lisianthus grow in full sun, reaching between one and three feet tall. They should be picked when one or more flowers on the stem are open. They are also used in dried flower arrangements.

Lisianthus flowers are edible, but are quite bitter.

Lisianthus has been used for its antibacterial and antifungal properties. 

Pincushion

Pincushion grows in full sun, and is 6-12 inches tall and 9-24 inches wide. They are used in fresh and dried floral arrangements. Pincushion flowers should be picked when they are still in bud for the longest vase life.

Pincushion is used in tea, salads, and garnishes. 

Pincushion has been used to treat inflammation, and to treat coughs, sore throat, and fever. Externally, it is used for skin conditions such as eczema and rashes.

China Aster

China Aster grows in full sun, reaching 3 feet tall. Flowers should be picked when they are halfway open for the longest vase life.

China Aster flowers and leaves can be used fresh or dried, in salads and tea. To make tea for storage, dry your flowers upside down until they crumble easily, then put them in an airproof container.

China Aster has been used to treat earaches, headaches, and toothaches.

Gomphrena (Globe Amaranth)

Gomphrena grow in full sun and are about 2 feet tall. When harvesting, their stems should be cut at the base of the plant. They are beautiful in fresh and dried arrangements.

Gomphrena’s fresh flowers are not appetizing due to their texture, but can be used as a garnish or to make tea. 

Gomphrena has been used for a wide variety of medicinal purposes, from diabetes and high blood pressure to respiratory disorders. 

Verbena (Common Vervain)

Verbena grows in full sun, reaching 1-5 feet tall. They are annual or short-lived perennials. Harvest when half of the flowers have opened.

Verbena is used in fruit salads, desserts and for tea. 

Verbena is used externally to treat burns, arthritis, and itching, and internally for insomnia, epilepsy, and anxiety.

Stock

Stock grows in full sun or partial shade, and is from 1-3 feet tall. For longer vase life, flowers should be picked when they are a third to halfway open. They are excellent for use in dried flower arrangements.

Stock is a member of the cabbage family. Its flowers and pods are edible and are used in salads and tea, but its leaves, stems, and roots are not edible. Their flavor is a bit peppery. 

Stock has been used as an expectorant and as an aphrodisiac. 

What edible flowers do you grow?

10 Perennial Plants That Will Thrive in Your Shady Garden

The Cottage Peach is reader-supported. When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. All opinions are our own.

Choosing the Best Flowering Perennial Plants for Your Shade Garden

Beautiful shade gardens are a bit trickier than sunny gardens simply because there’s a much wider variety of perennials that grow in full sun than perennials that grow in shade. It can be done, though, and I’m here to help you do it.

One way to make a garden is to fly by the seat of your pants – go to the garden center, pick what looks pretty to you, make sure they like the shade, then figure out where to put them when you get home. I did plenty of that myself in my early years of gardening, and still do sometimes. As I’ve become more experienced, though, I’ve come to appreciate the role of planning in garden design.

What is a Perennial Plant?

First, let’s talk about what a perennial plant is not. You know when you go to a garden center in the spring and there are plants already blooming with bright flowers and you’ve been starving for color all winter and you Must. Buy. Them. All? Those are annual plants, plants that will die in the fall of the year you put them in the ground.  You get the instant satisfaction of pretty colors in your yard, but you’ll have to do it all over again the next spring, and the one after that. 

Perennial plants may die back to the ground in fall or winter (some don’t), but their roots are still alive, and, year after year, each spring the plant will come back bigger, stronger, and with more blooms. These are the plants we use to build a garden that will become more lush and beautiful every year. Another great thing about perennials is that as they grow we can divide them, creating many plants from the one purchase.

How Do You Divide Perennial Plants?

As I explained in this post, most perennials are happy to be divided. There are two basic methods I use to I divide a perennial plant. The first is to use a sharp-edged shovel. Pressing straight down on the shovel with my foot, I can separate the roots belowground. It’s then easy to dig out only the section I want to move. The other way I divide a plant is to dig the whole thing up. Some plants’ roots will easily separate into pieces once they’re out of the ground. Others will need to be split with a shovel or gardening knife.

The benefits of making a plan for your garden

A little planning will ensure you choose plants that will thrive in your yard’s conditions. Maybe your shady area has one end that gets partial sun, you have a pile of rocks to plant around, or the area tends to be dry. Choosing the right plant for the right spot sets your plants up for success.

Planning your garden also allows time to think about what size each plant will grow to be, what its watering needs are, what types of foliage you’d like to see near each other, how much maintenance will be needed, and what color the flowers will be. 

You can also take the time to learn which plants might have edible or medicinal uses, making your garden both beautiful and useful.

**Please note that many plants which are edible for humans may be toxic to cats and dogs.**

How Many plants Should you Buy?

It’s tempting to buy one of each of the perennial plants you like, and that can be a good way to experiment and learn how different plants grow. As far as garden design goes, though, it’s better to choose fewer varieties of plants and get more of each of the ones you choose. 

Large swaths of the same plant have a bigger impact that a collection of different plants. They also make your garden look lush and intentional. Additionally, you might want to put the same variety of plants in different areas of the garden to provide balance.

Three is generally a magic number in design, and that holds true in the garden. If you can afford more than three, stick with an odd number for the most attractive outcome.

What Perennial Flowers for Shade Should you Buy?

As this is your very own garden, you should choose the plants you find most beautiful. While you’re looking, pay attention to what color flower each plant will produce. Maybe you want a garden where all the flowers are different shades of one color, or a garden with a certain palette of colors. Or maybe you want a riotous mix of every color you can find.

Pay attention also to the foliage of the plants. Perennials that grow in shade sometimes have flowers which  do not bloom for as long or as strikingly as sun-loving perennials do. The good news is each plant has a unique foliage color and shape, and they can be combined in ways that look good even when the plants are not flowering.

When choosing what perennial plants to buy, there are a few other things to think about. It’s important to look up each plant’s growing zone. You can find your own growing zone with the USDA’s Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Plants outside of your zone will not grow in your area. Because I live in Zone 6b, my favorites may not be appropriate if you live in a very cold or very warm climate.

Also find out each plant’s size, whether it can tolerate partial sun, and what its bloom time is. You probably don’t want to end up with a garden that only has flowers in June! 

The Best Flowering Shade Perennials

Of course it’s not possible to determine what the ‘best’ plants are. You can research yourself to find what you think are the best perennials for your shady garden, and buy what you like. To save you a bit of work, though, I’ll tell you what some of my favorite shade perennials are. 

Here’s a list of 10 flowering perennials that grow in the shade, along with some information that will help you decide if they are the right plants for you:

Geranium
Zones 3-8

Geranium flowers are available in a multitude of colors and sizes. Many of the varieties will be quite happy in full shade. Others can handle partial shade. The plants will spread, making shorter varieties a great groundcover, and they don’t spread so aggressively as to become a problem. They can also be divided.

Geraniums range greatly in size, anywhere from 4-48” tall and 6-36” wide, and can bloom from spring to fall. Geranium flowers and leaves are edible, and are also used for medicinal purposes.

Barrenwort
Zones 5-9

Barrenwort has colorful foliage, and in mid- to late spring, tiny flowers in pink, orange, red, white, or yellow appear.

It grows well in full shade, but in partial shade it will produce more, and brighter, blooms. Varieties range from 6-15” high and 6-24” wide.

Bleeding Heart
Zones 3-9

A particular favorite, Bleeding Heart flowers come in many colors – classic pink, white, yellow, wine, violet, and red. In ideal conditions, they can grow to 3’ tall and 6’ wide. Blooms will appear in spring and if you cut the plant back after the flowers are spent, the plant may bloom again later in the summer.

Astilboides Tabularis
Zones 5-7

This is what to choose if you’d like an impressive plant with giant, umbrella-like leaves. It produces creamy white flowers from May-July, and the plant grows 4’ tall and 3’ wide, with some of its leaves measuring 24” across. Perfect for full shade, it can handle partial shade as well.

Astilbe
Zones 3-8

Astilbe plants produce gorgeous, fluffy flowers in white, pink, red, purple, or peach. Early-blooming varieties will flower in May or June, while late-bloomers begin to flower in July. By choosing more than one variety, you can set yourself up for color over the whole summer.

The varieties measure from 1-4’ tall, making them a good choice whether you’re looking for a tall shade perennial or something a bit smaller. It prefers partial shade, although it will grow in full shade, producing fewer blooms.

Astible is edible, and also used medicinally.

Hosta
Zones 3-9

There’s a certain variety of Hosta that seems to be everywhere, from shopping centers to yards, and honestly I don’t like the look of it at all. Luckily for me, there’s a huge number of Hosta varieties, each sporting different foliage colors and size.

A favorite of mine is the Filigree White Hosta, because it emerges with leaves that are white with green veins, which then progress to green as the season goes on. It grows to 24” tall and 24” wide, and produces lavender-colored flowers in mid-summer.

You may be surprised to learn that all parts of a Hosta plant are edible. Early spring shoots can be cooked as you would asparagus, a plant to which the Hosta is related. The leaves will taste better when they’re younger, and can be used in place of lettuce or spinach. The flowers are great as a garnish or tossed into a salad for a bit of color.

Dolce ‘Silver Gumdrop’ Coral Bells
Zones 4-9

With silvery leaves, this plant is beautiful whether it’s flowering or not. It blooms in mid-summer, its pink flowers growing about 20-24” above the plant itself, which is 6” tall and 16” wide.

It grows well in both shade and partial shade.

Fringe Cups
Zones 4-7

Blooming in April and May, with flowers that are first white, then pink, then red, Fringe Cups grow about 3’ tall and 2’ wide, with 2’ of that height coming from the flowers, which grow high about the foliage. Their leaves color up in the fall, and they are happy in partial shade.

‘Jack Frost’ Heartleaf Brunnera
Zones 3-8

Jack Frost produces blue flowers in mid- to late spring, but it’s best quality is its striking, variegated leaves. It grows 15” tall and 15” wide, and does well in both shade and partial shade.

Oxalis Oregana
Zones 6-9

This plant makes a beautiful groundcover, spreading through rhizomes underground. It grows up to 8” tall, and produces small pink or white flowers from early spring to summer.

The most exciting things about Oxalis Oregana, though, is that the underside of its clover-shaped leaves are purple or pink. I love a good surprise! Walking through a patch of plants, your movement will ripple the leaves, allowing you to see both colors. 

The flowers are edible, as are the leaves, which should be cooked before eating. The plant also has medicinal uses.

Is That Enough Plants for a Perennial Shade Garden?

I first want to acknowledge that plants are not cheap. Making a garden is not something that has to be done in one swoop. We can buy plants as we can afford them, and some years from now we’ll have the garden we imagined. And remember, gardening friends will be happy to give you splits of their plants, and some plants are easily grown by seed.

Whether the plants I listed are enough for your shade garden will, of course, will depend on the size of your garden area and the number of each variety you plant. 

If you were to plant all ten of these perennials, you could enjoy white, yellow, pink, red, orange, peach, purple, and blue flowers. You’d have plants of many different sizes, and a wide variety of foliage shapes and colors. Between them all, you’d have at least one plant blooming from spring to fall. But remember, you may want to consider choosing fewer varieties and getting more of the ones you do choose.

Whatever plants you decide on, keep in mind that gardening isn’t about perfection. It’s about playing in the dirt, connecting to nature, and expressing your creativity. Whatever you think is beautiful, is beautiful!